09 Sep

Majestic Ladakh : Kargil War Memorial, Drass

By

Kargil War Memorial is a monument established to commemorate the victories of Operation Vijay during the Indo-Pak war of 1999 and also to pay homage to war Martyrs who laid their lives while safeguarding our country against the Pakistani intruders. The memorial is made of pink sandstone at ‘ground zero’ with the backdrop of Tololing Range. On its rear wall, names of the martyrs are inscribed on golden plate.
I read therein the quote, “Beneath this earth young warriors sleep” and few lines from a poem of Martyr Ram Prasad Bismil (He was a great freedom fighter participated in Mainpuri Conspiracy of 1918, and the Kakori conspiracy of 1925 against the British Empire, and was sentenced to death by British Raj) at the bottom of the wall,

Shaheedon Ki Chitaon Par
Lagenge Har Baras Mele
Watan Par Mar Mitne Walo Ka
Yahi Baaki Nishaan Hoga

Read More

Sarchu to Nimmu – taking in the famous Tso Kar

By

There is a fair amount of traffic on this route… even though it is so demanding a journey. The day is getting brighter and the scenery more compelling. All of a sudden I spot a dog sized something on the corner ahead. Its gait immediately gives its identity away. It is a Himalayan Snowcock. Lo and behold!

Read More

Majestic Ladakh : ZojiLa- The Most Treacherous Mountain Pass In The World!

By

Wait a minute! It has a history of war too. Don’t raise your brows! Yes, it has. Kashmir was then an independent Kingdom and Maharaja Hari Singh was its king. It was the year 1947-48. The king was finding it difficult to decide with which country to join his territory, India or Pakistan, or to remain independent. The king chose to remain independent but his wishes were short lived and dashed in October 1947 as Pakistan sent Muslim tribesmen invader into the territory of Kashmir who were then approaching to the capital Srinagar fast. Maharaja Hari Singh signed the Instrument of Accession, ceding Kashmir to India on 26th October. Thus the first war between India and Pakistan broke out over Kashmir in 1947. India referred the dispute to United Nation on 1st January 1948. During this war Pakistani invaders seized ZojiLa in 1948 while they were on the verge of capturing Ladakh. On 1st November, Zojila pass was recaptured by Indian forces under Operation Bison. On 1st January 1949, a ceasefire was agreed with only two-third of the whole Kashmir under Indian control and the remaining with Pakistan (we call it now as Pakistan Occupied Kashmir or P.O.K). In the ceasefire lines, LOC (Line of Control) was drawn up which was formally established in 1972, after a third war between India and Pakistan in 1971.The Line of Control remains the de facto border between the two countries.

We spent enough time at the pass looking at how other vehicles were negotiating the road at the mountain edge that has no barrier. The road is so narrow and vicious that it is known as one of the most dangerous passes in the world. But the route is a lifeline that keeps the people of Ladakh connect with the rest of the world. However it remains closed for more than six months in a year for blockage due to heavy snowfall. The road reopens in late spring. ZojiLa at an elevation of 11649 feet above sea level is considered to be the second highest pass after Fotu La on the Srinagar-Leh National Highway.

Read More
श्रावस्ती संस्मरण – भाग १ ( Memories of Sravasti -1)

श्रावस्ती संस्मरण – भाग १ ( Memories of Sravasti -1)

By

श्रावस्ती से भगवान्‌ बुद्ध का गहरा रिशता   रहा है । यह तथ्य इसी से प्रकट होता है कि जीवन के उत्तरार्थ के २५ वर्षावास( चार्तुमास ) बुद्ध ने श्रावस्ती मे ही बिताये । बुद्ध वाणी संग्रह त्रिपिटक के अन्तर्गत ८७१ सूत्रों ( धर्म उपदेशॊ )  को भगवान्‌ बुद्ध ने श्रावस्ती प्रवास मे ही दिये थे , जिसमें ८४४ उपदेशों को जेतवन – अनाथपिंडक महाविहार में व २३ सूत्रों को  मिगार माता पूर्वाराम मे उपदेशित किया था । शेष ४ सूत्रों समीप के अन्य स्थानों मे दिये गये थे । भगवान बुद्ध के महान आध्यात्मिक  गौरव का केन्द्र बनी श्रावस्ती का सांस्कृतिक प्रवाह मे भयानक विध्वंसों के बाद वर्तमान मे भी यथावत है ।

इतिहास मे दृष्टि दौडायें तो कई रोचक तथ्य दिखते हैं । प्राचीन काल में यह कौशल देश की दूसरी राजधानी थी। भगवान राम के पुत्र लव ने इसे अपनी राजधानी बनाया था। श्रावस्ती बौद्ध व जैन दोनो का तीर्थ स्थान है।

माना गया है कि श्रावस्ति के स्थान पर आज आधुनिक सहेत महेत ग्राम है जो एक दूसरे से लगभग डेढ़ फर्लांग के अंतर पर स्थित हैं। यह बुद्धकालीन नगर था, जिसके भग्नावशेष उत्तर प्रदेश राज्य के, बहराइच एवं गोंडा जिले की सीमा पर, राप्ती नदी के दक्षिणी किनारे पर फैले हुए हैं।

Read More

A trip to Shillong, Meghalaya

By

Later when I Googled, I found that it is indeed a reservoir and an artificial lake and was created by damming the Umium river and covers about 220 square km. This is first hydro-power project in this part of the country. Barapani is a major tourist attraction. Plenty of photos are available on the web.

We reached Shillong late afternoon. I was very excited, keen to find Shillong of my dreams: hills, fern, orchid and low cloud. Unfortunately, the sights and sound of the city did not match my imagination.

We drove past the crowded Police Bazaar area, the assembly and the polo ground and reached a quieter part of the town called Upper Lamthumai. Our hotel, Roseville Hotel, is located there.

Roseville Guest House: The hotel, more like a home stay, has cottages for guests and a well maintained garden. I identified Pine and Birch trees and some flowers. It has an old world charm. The property is famous for beautiful rooms and heritage rooms and was earlier managed by ITC Welcom. The tariff: Rs 3,000+25% tax per day.

Read More

Majestic Ladakh : The Journey Begins!

By

Now let’s begin the journey. Yes it starts with this prologue. For me, the journey actually began much before I stepped into the land of Kashmir to enter into Ladakh.

The Chinese philosopher, Lao-Tzu, said, “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” It is true for travelling to the top of the world, Ladakh! The first step undoubtedly would be to know a little bit about Ladakh.

It started, for me, four months before I actually travelled the region- through numerous articles, blogs and travel stories. Before going to Ladakh it was much essential for me to know about the places to go and activities to do in Ladakh, its history, culture, religious institutions and the mystics.

Read More

Road to Chandratal

By

We reach Kunzum jot, slightly off the main road and where vehicles take a customary loop to offer prayers. It is an overcast morning…. has continued to be so since Losar. More clouds come rolling in and almost obscure the Stupas at Kunzum Jot. Behind the Stupas and to their right, the track is clearly visible going to Chandratal. As our three vehicles halt there, we see no sign of the advance party. After mulling our options, we decide that one vehicle will go down the Kunzumla towards Batal and check out the motorable road to Chandratal since that is the only other place the other Scorpio could be. Sure enough, in a while we get a message from a tourist vehicle coming from Batal that our two Scorpios are at the motorable road and for us to join them there.

Read More

Chandrataal – the Moon Lake

By

As we moved ahead, we crossed more and more nallahs. To our surprise they were even more dangerous now. The water flow was huge, it was so violent, we thought as if we were going to flow away with the water down to the Spiti river.

Read More

Spiti…. journey through ‘The middle land’

By

Bypassing such quaint villages as Yangthang, Chango and Leo, we press on for Nako. I have great hope that the cloud cover will disperse enough for Reo Purgyal, the highest peak in Himachal to be visible. Unfortunately, the peaks are all shrouded in thick clouds. We have a very long way ahead and no time to tarry. We do not even swing by Nako Lake consoling ourselves that we would see the Chandratal anyway today and hurry ahead. Far, far below us is the meandering Spiti and the beautiful Leo village is visible low down across the valley.
The route takes us through barren, crumbling mountainsides and the presence of a BRO detachment alerts us to the proximity of the Malling Nallah stretch which is infamous for being a perpetual landslide zone. It does not disappoint. We cross the Malling Nallah and come to a halt behind two other vehicles. A JCB is busy clearing an enormous few ton boulder in the landslide while a steady rain of shooting stones continues. It is scary, to say the least. I guess the BRO knows how dangerous it is and has concluded that this is minor enough for the work to continue. Hats off to these sentinels of the roads in these remote areas!

Read More

हिमाचल डायरी : रेणुका जी झील और पाँवटा साहेब की तरफ… भाग 4

By

झील शब्द तो स्वयम में ही स्त्री लिंग है, इसलियें रेणुका नाम तो अपेक्षित है, परन्तु पूरे रास्ते भर हमे जो भी साइन बोर्ड दिखे, सभी पर झील का नाम रेणुकाजी लिखा हुआ है, हमे आश्चर्य तो है, परन्तु इससे एक अंदाजा भी लग जाता है कि सम्भवतः इसका कोई धार्मिक कारण अवश्य होगा, परन्तु इसके मिथकीय इतिहास से अभी तो हम सर्वथा अनभिज्ञ हैं, हमने तो केवल इतना भर सुना था कि इसकी आकृति एक लेटी हुई महिला सरीखी है और इसके काफी बढ़े हिस्से पर कमल के फूल खिलते हैं |

इधर हमारी यात्रा जारी है और अब जिस जगह पर पहुंचे हैं, वह परशुराम और रेणुकाजी का मन्दिर है | एक ही प्रांगण में रेणुकाजी के मन्दिर के साथ ही परशुरामजी का मन्दिर…, मस्तिक से स्मृति का धुंधलका मिटने लगा, याद आया कि रेणुका जी तो परशुराम की माता जी थी, कुछ हमने याद किया, कुछ इस मन्दिर से पता चला, तो कुल मिलाकर जो जानकारी इकट्ठी हुई, उसका सार कुछ इस प्रकार है-

हिमाचल के इसी पर्वतीय क्षेत्र के जंगलो की कंदराओं में ऋषि जमदग्नि अपनी पत्नी रेणुका के साथ एक आश्रम में रहते थे | असुर सहसत्रजुन की नीयत डोली और ऋषि पत्नी रेणुका को पाने की अभिलाषा में उसने ऋषि जमदग्नि का वध कर दिया | रेणुका ने अपने सत की रक्षा और दुष्ट असुर से बचने हेतु स्वयम् को जल में समाधिष्ठ कर लिया, बाद में परशुराम और देवतायों ने असुर का वध किया, और ऋषि व रेणुका को नव जीवन दिया और फिर ठीक उस जगह से एक जल धारा फूटी जिससे इस झील का निर्माण हुआ | मिथक कुछ भी हो, परन्तु आस पास के क्षेत्र के निवासियों में इस जगह का धार्मिक महत्व है और वह इस दंत कथा को मानते भी हैं इसका सबसे बढ़ा ज्वलंत प्रमाण तो यह ही है कि स्थानीय निवासी जब इस झील में नौका विहार के लिये जाते हैं तो अपने जूते-चप्पल किनारे पर ही उतार देते हैं |

Read More

Memories of Mewar (III): Udaipur, City of Lakes and Palaces.

By

After visiting the Kumbhalgarh Fort, Ranakpur, the Krishna Temples at Kankroli and Nathdwara, and the Sajjan Garh Palace, we were now on the last leg of our trip to Mewar, Rajasthan, and had two full days to take in the beauty of Udaipur, the City of Lakes and Palaces. This beautiful city is also sometimes referred to as the ‘Venice of the East’, ‘Most Romantic City of India’ and ‘The Kashmir of Rajasthan’.

Udaipur was the capital of the kingdom of Mewar, ruled by the Sisodia clan of Rajputs. The founder of Udaipur was Maharana Udai Singh II, father of Maharana Pratap. Udaipur was founded in 1559, when a hermit blessed the king and asked him to build has palace at a spot on the east ridge of the Pichola Lake. In 1568, the Mughal emperor Akbar captured Chittaurgarh, and Udai Singh moved the capital to the site of his new residence, which became the city of Udaipur. As the Mughal empire weakened over the years, the Sisodia Maharanas recaptured most of Mewar district. Udaipur remained the capital of the state, which became a princely state of British India in 1818.

After India’s independence in 1947, the Maharaja of Udaipur acceded to the Government of India, and Mewar was integrated into India’s Rajasthan state.

Read More