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Kuchh din guzaarey humne Gujarat mein – How we reached (Part 1)

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I was still on the highway between Jaipur and Ajmer, 3 Hrs behind my schedule courtesy potholed roads near Mahendragarh and rush in the towns of Haryana where no byepass facility was available. Now I was laughing at Google as well as crying inside. Ajeeb feeling aur oopar se yeh Garmi that about Rs. 600 was spent on chilled bottled water that day…

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The retreat of the tide

The Emerald Islands of Andaman and Nicobar-II

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Our plan was to take a government ferry to Havelock and halt there for two days. For our return journey we planned to take the Makruzz back to Port Blair. We had to wake up at 5 in the morning to catch the ferry which leaves at  6:30 am. The harbour at Port Blair is lively even at these early hours as it caters to to the goods coming in from the mainland, as well as from nearby countries like Thailand. The ferry which we were to travel on, was operated by the Shipping Corporation of India. Our reserved seats in the first class compartment akin to the Indian Railways chair car coaches made our travel comfortable. During the journey to Havelock, you are free to go on deck. Travelers can hear the soothing sound of the waves hitting the craft and enjoy the vast expanse of the ocean. The blue sea, and the green emeralds dotting them, complement each other, and add to the experience. After standing on deck for 15 minutes, we decided to get a quick nap. When we woke up, the ferry was docking at the Havelock Jetty. After getting off the ship, we were picked up by a taxi our friends had arranged.  We were dropped at our hotel, a government enterprise called the “Dolphin Hotel”. There are various grades of rooms available and it is important to reserve the rooms early.You may reserve the rooms through online payment on the website. Make sure to get a sea facing cottage. The drawback about Dolphin Hotel was  that though it was set in a nice sea-facing location, it did not have a beach.There are a multitude of options to stay at in at Havelock, which suit all budgets.

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Summer Road Trip – Badrinath Bound

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The first glimpse of Badrinath is mesmerising!! It is nestled between the Nar and Narayan ranges. The towering Neelkanth lies just behind the Narayan Parvat on which the Badrinath shrine has been built. In the pristine morning sunlight and the crystal clear visibility of this place, this brilliant megalith has a strange magnetism. I think everyone who visits this place must be a little bit under its spell. [Pic: Neelkanth] The little settlement haphazardly built around the temple is but a random patchwork of colours in a vast magnificent landscape meant to command… dominate… enthral… hypnotise… inspire… all at once!

The lofty snow capped peaks in the backdrop of the gurgling Alaknanda far below … this is the place which has so much spirituality that you can almost reach out and touch it. Nothing is godlier than nature itself!
It really puts things into perspective. One senses how small, insignificant and petty are human egos, wants and conflicts in a scale this extravagant. It is at once uplifting and calming… a place I felt at peace with myself and the world at large. The Himalayas in their splendorous beauty! I’ll let the pictures do the talking…

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Summer Road Trip – Birding in Lansdowne

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The next two days are packed with bird watching. The commonest of the birds around command our attention for they are new to us plains dwellers. The ubiquitous Himalayan Bulbul, Blue Whistling Thrush and the Russet Sparrows are everywhere. In fact, we do not see any house sparrows there at all! The Streaked Laughing thrush is trying to catch our attention by peaking at us from just beyond the tree trunk. The Black headed Jay is wandering around as common as the Rock Pigeon in the plains!

Meanwhile, two green birds fly up to a nearby tree. There is a distinct yellow on them and the flight indicates woodpeckers. We hurry and try to get in position for at least a record shot to identify the specie. The Lesser Yellownape it is! Hard on the heels of this pair is another pair, this one of the Brown fronted Woodpecker… birds are raining down on us hard and fast! The Himalayan Woodpeckers are also plentiful. The Grey headed Woodpecker makes an appearance… I am very happy. The bird count for the trip is increasing rapidly.

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Taksang Gompa: A Holy Trek in Bhutan

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Some more local families overtook us and surged forward at a fast pace, almost a routine walk for them. I wanted to keep my own steady pace using the umbrella as walking stick. At the age of 68, one needs to listen to one’s body and not rush to compete with others. We pushed every step, slow and steady and continued climbing. My thigh and calf muscles started aching demanding rest. As we kept climbing my breathing became harder and started roaring into my ears. We trudged on. The mountain breeze, when it came, helped me like a breath of fresh air. A crow hovered upwind in search of a prey perhaps. The climb became grimmer as we continued to angle towards the top. My shirt, which had been soaked with sweat, now felt stiff and uncomfortable. I wiped the perspiration from my forehead that was trickling into my eyes. I glanced at the rock face towards my right and saw the holy Gompa across that looked like toy houses stuck together on the rock face with glue. It became bigger as we climbed further up and reduced the distance with the rock face. We pushed slowly with no sense of hurry. The aroma of the jungle was printed on every whiff of breeze that I savored. The mist rose from the valley below and started blotting out the tumbled slopes of the rocky cliff below the Gompa.
After about an hour and a half we reached a midpoint, rested and sipped water. It would be unwise to rest for too long as once the body gets cold it will be difficult to climb up, better keep the body warm and maintain the rhythm of the climb.

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आगरा: ताज की तरफ वाया सिकंदरा (अकबर का मकबरा)

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मुगलों के बनवाए कुछ मकबरे तो वाकई इतने बुलंद और आलीशान हैं कि आपको उनकी मौत से भी रश्क हो जाता है | इस काल की जितनी भी मुख्य इमारतें हैं, उनमे कुछ ना कुछ ऐसा जरूर है, जिस से आप उनकी भवन-निर्माण कला के मुरीद हो जाएँ, इस मामले में ये मकबरा भी आपको एक ऐसा नायाब पल देता है, जब आप, (चित्र में लाल घेरे वाले) पत्थर पर खड़े होकर जो भी बोलते हैं, वो इस के हर हिस्से में सुनाई देता है यानी कि आज के दौर का Public Address System. और आप हैरान तो तब रह जाते हैं जब इस स्पॉट से दो फुट दायें–बाएं या आगे-पीछे होने पर. आपकी आवाज केवल आप तक ही रह जाती है |

सदियों से, जो मौत इतनी डरावनी और भयावह समझी जाती रही है कि कोई अपनी मरजी से उसके पास तक नही जाना चाहता, उसे याद तक नही करना चाहता, ऐसे में उसकी यादगार को कायम रखने के लिए इतने भव्य और आलीशान मकबरों का निर्माण, वाकई कमाल की बात है |

मिर्ज़ा ग़ालिब का एक शेर इस मौके पर बेसाख्ता ही याद आकर लबों पर एक हल्की सी मुस्कान बिखेर देता है –

“ मत पूछ, के क्या हाल है मेरा तेरे पीछे?, सोच के क्या रंग तेरा, मेरे आगे ! “

मिस्त्र के पिरामिड और ये मकबरे, ऐसा नही, कि मौत को कोई चुनोती देते हों या मौत पर इंसान की जीत का परचम फहराते हों, पर हाँ इतना जरूर है कि इन्हें देखने के बाद मौत इतनी भी बदसूरत नजर नही आती! बहरहाल सूरज अपना जलवा दिखाने को बेकरार हो रहा है, और घड़ी की सुईयां भी सरपट भाग रही हैं, ऐसे में हम फैसला करते हैं कि हमें अपनी ऊर्जा ताजमहल के लिए भी बचा कर रखनी है | अत:, हम जल्दी से अकबर के मकबरे को अपनी यादों में समेट, मुगलिया सल्तनत के एक बेताज बादशाह को उसकी फराखदिली और पंथ-निरपेक्षता के लिए उसे अपना आखिरी सलाम देते हुए, एक और मकबरे, ताजमहल को देखने आगरा की और कूच कर देते हैं…..

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Trip to Bhutan – Thimpu, Paro and Phuntsoling

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We met our guide who took us to our destination, Galling Resort, about 3 kms away from town along a graveled road. Located on the banks of Paro chu; the property was tastefully constructed and painted in unique mud color ethnic Bhutanese style. The view from the balcony was breathtaking with Paro Chu rumbling right in front across the road, part of Paro beyond and finally the valley rising to meet the misty mountains that made the distant horizon. Anyone with an eye for the nature or a plain nature lover is bound to be enchanted by the natural beauty, landscape that would make not spending couple of days almost impossible. We did just that. The resort was warm, comfortable with a cozy lounge, wood paneled bedroom and comfortable attached bath. Our rooms had the same view as balcony and decided to keep the curtains drawn and windows opened so as to be part of the beautiful view.

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Summer Road Trip – National Chambal Sanctuary, Morena

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We take a turn around the gardens which are alive with bird calls. The abundant peafowl with their splendid trailing tails compete with the woodpecker, kingfisher, parakeets and the babblers for our attention. Everything else takes a back seat as the children are uncomfortable in the heat of the day. When the situation does not improve till late evening and after nightfall (the ACs are not working in spite of the gensets!), we have dinner at the FRH (which is very good) and fall back to Morena for the night.

Picking up our guide at Devri, we are at the boat pool on the river by 0530hrs. The much anticipated safari is underway with all of us on the edge of our seats, craning for the first glimpse of wildlife. At that point, the sun has just risen and is casting a golden glow on the ragged ravines on the banks and the tranquil waters of the Chambal. Suddenly, the calm breaks and a gentle giant breaks the surface with an elegant roll… the Gangetic Dolphin! It is a blind creature which does all its hunting and navigation by sonar located in the bump on its head. Cameras are ready but shots are very elusive since the dolphins are very erratic sightings.

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A Foodies Journey through Bangladesh

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Now that we have gorged on heavenly Mughlai delicacies, lets  salivate for earthy Bengal food- “Bangla Khabar”, as the locals call it. Bengalis are famous for their preparation of fish, fish in any form, fried, baked or steamed. But that’s only one side of the coin, Bengalis can cook a wide variety of  delectable greens as well. So lets turn our steps towards all that “Sonar Bangla” has to offer. We will go to a small eatery in Old Dhaka called “Nirob” or “Silence”. Located at Nizamuddin Road, it is very popular with the local people. The name of this place probably comes from the fact that once the food is served , its variety and taste makes the chattiest guest “Silent”. The USP of this hotel is that it offers around 19  different eatables  in small plates to the guest.

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