09 Sep

Kausani and Ranikhet – Mighty Himalayan View

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Kausani: The absence of crowds was a welcome change in this place as well. No mall road to boast about but the available accommodation was good enough. The тАШwowтАЩ factor is the spectacular view of the mighty Himalayas – 300 kilometers of unhindered and unmatched majestic view. Peaks Nandadevi, Nandaghunti, Trishul etc. glistening in the morning sunshine, gives lovely viewing pleasure. On a clear morning as you open your bedside window, the sight of these snow-capped mountains which sometimes seem to be bending towards you, simply take your breath away.

Gandhiji spent a few days here in the Anashakti ashram тАУ which is right in the middle of the town and displays some photographs from his life тАУ and called this place тАШthe Switzerland of IndiaтАЩ. Hindi poet Sumitra Nandan Pant was born in this place.

Baijnath, 19 km downhill from Kausani, boasts of a 1000 year old temple complex situated on the banks of river Gomti. Children enjoyed feeding the fish here.

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Khecheopalri – The Holy Lake of West Sikkim

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Siliguri to Pelling in West Sikkim is 131 kms and takes approximately 3 hours for straight drive. Needless to mention that the drive is subjected to imponderables like traffic snarl, road repairs and broadening work, tea and meal breaks. As such it is safe to plan approx 4 hours for the drive. Pelling to Khecheopalri is 32 kms and takes about an hourтАШs drive along a graveled road. As usual the condition of road from Siliguri to the lake can best be described as тАЬthe good, the bad and the uglyтАЭ. Last year at a chance meeting a MLA from Jorthang told me that this West Sikkim road is being turned into a four lane highway, insallah.

Road from Siliguri to Sevoke is a smooth broad 2 lane highway (NH 31) that knifes through the neat sevoke Military Cantonment and Sevoke Forest. From Sevoke Bazaar to Coronation Bridge (3 kms) is another smooth, well carpeted road snaking along he mountain curves runing almost parallel to Teesta River. This road is adorned with good highway signs; however, unfortunately this stretch is marred by delays due to railway gate blockage and heavy traffic from/to North East, Dooars, Sikkim and Kalimpong. From Coronation Bridge to Teesta Bridge near Teesta bazar (37km) NH 31is forever in the making and subject to traffic jams & delays caused by repairs and expansion; as such, it can be dusty and slushy depending on the season.

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Ride to Kibber

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ad astra per aspera
which literally means, “a rough road leads to the stars” and this pretty much came true for us when we started our ride from recong peo to tabo. recong peo was a let down. i am being honest in my criticism…it was a disappointing place and the only thing that was worth remembering is the sight of the mighty kinnr kailash. I am feeling blessed to have seen it.
post recong peo, we were heading towards Tabo. en route we stoppd at nako and we were simpy bowled over by the place… the place was so quite and peacful…
we had a sumptuou tibetan meal followed by a hot cup of tea. here we also fulfilled one of our long pending wishes- tieing prayer flags on our bikes..so each one of us picked up a prayer flag and tied it to our bikes. the old lady at the shop told us to write our names in the flag. we also met this vry nice kid by the name of Ajay who ofered to take us on a guided tour of the nako lake and the monastery..

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рдШреБрдордХреНрдХрдбрд╝ рдХреА рджрд┐рд▓реНрд▓реА : рдЧреБрд░реБрджреНрд╡рд╛рд░рд╛ рд╢реНрд░реА рдмрдВрдЧрд▓рд╛ рд╕рд╛рд╣рд┐рдм

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рднрд╡рди рдХреЗ рдмрд╛рд╣рд░ рдЖрдХрд░ рдкрдВрдХреНрддрд┐ рдореЗрдВ рд╣рд▓реБрд╡рд╛ рдХрд╛ рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рджрд╛ рд▓рд┐рдпрд╛. рдкреНрд░рд╛рдВрдЧрдг рдореЗрдВ рдХреБрдЫ рджреЗрд░ рд╢рд╛рдВрддрдЪрд┐рддреНрдд рд╣реЛрдХрд░ рдмреИрдареЗ рд░рд╣рдиреЗ рдХреЗ рдмрд╛рдж рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рджрд╛ рдЧреНрд░рд╣рдг рдХрд┐рдпрд╛. рдЧреБрд░реБрджреНрд╡рд╛рд░реЛрдВ рдореЗрдВ рдорд┐рд▓рдиреЗ рд╡рд╛рд▓реЗ рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рдж рд░реВрдкреА рд╣рд▓реБрд╡реЗ рдХреА рд╡рд┐рд╢реЗрд╖рддрд╛ рд╣реИ рдХрд┐ рдпрд╣ рд╢реБрджреНрдз рджреЗрд╢реА рдШреА рд╕реЗ рдмрдирд╛ рд╣реЛрддрд╛ рд╣реИ рдФрд░ рдкреВрд░реА рддрд░рд╣ рд╕реЗ рдШреА рдореЗрдВ рддрд░ рд╣реЛрддрд╛ рд╣реИ. рд╣рд╛рде рдореЗрдВ рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рджрд╛ рд▓реЗрдХрд░ рдЦрд╛рдиреЗ рдХреЗ рдмрд╛рдж рд╣рд╛рдереЛрдВ рдореЗрдВ рджреЗрд╢реА рдШреА рдХреА рд╕реБрдЧрдВрдз рдФрд░ рдЪрд┐рдХрдирд╛рд╣рдЯ рдмрд╛рдиреА рд░рд╣рддреА рд╣реИ рдФрд░ рд╕реНрд╡рд╛рдж рдХреА рддреЛ рдмрд╛рдд рд╣реА рдХреНрдпрд╛┬а‘рдЧреБрд░реБ-рдкреНрд░рд╕рд╛рдж’┬ардЬреЛ рд╣реИ. рдмрдЪреНрдЪреЛрдВ рдиреЗ рднреА рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рджрд╛ рдЧреНрд░рд╣рдг рдХрд┐рдпрд╛ рдФрд░ рдореЗрд░реА рдмрдбрд╝реА рдмреЗрдЯреА рднреВрдорд┐рдХрд╛ рдХреЛ рдЗрддрдирд╛ рдкрд╕рдВрдж рдЖрдпрд╛ рдХрд┐ рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рджрд╛ рдХреА рд▓рд┐рдП рджреЛрдмрд╛рд░рд╛ рд╕реЗ рд▓рд╛рдЗрди рдореЗрдВ рд▓рдЧ рдЧрдпреА. рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рджрд╛ рд╡рд┐рддрд░рдг рдХрд░рдиреЗ рд╡рд╛рд▓реЗ рднрдЧрддрдЬреА рдиреЗ рд╕рд░ рдкрд░ рд░реБрдорд╛рд▓рд╛ рди рд╣реЛрдиреЗ рдХреА рдХрд╛рд░рдг рдереЛрдбрд╝рд╛ рдбрд╛рдВрдЯрддреЗ рд╣реБрдП рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рджрд╛ рджреЗрдиреЗ рд╕реЗ рдордирд╛ рдХрд░ рджрд┐рдпрд╛ рдФрд░ рд╣рдо рджреВрд░ рд╕реЗ рджреГрд╢реНрдп рджреЗрдЦрддреЗ рд░рд╣реЗ.

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Solo Travel, Himachal Tribal Circuit тАУ Lahaul Valley

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During this stretch, a car had a flat tyre in the middle of a stream. The traffic had halted and the passengers of our bus, helped in changing the wheel. We started crawling forward, for being blocked once again by the same car, which was ahead of us. This time the car got stuck in a stream having big boulders. Again the passengers and staff of the bus came to the rescue of the car. Stones were planted strategically in front of the car tyres to provide some friction and the car was literally lifted out of the stream by the passengers.
We descended to the valley at Batal and from there we moved in the valley, literally on the river bed up to Chatru, which was our mid-day meal stop. Trekkers going to Chandratal from Manali or Keylong can stay here overnight. Chatru was the smallest village I have seen in terms of population, with a population of just 20 people. In fact there are no houses here, just 3-4 eateries catering to needs of the entire spectrum of passengers.

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Exploring AP – Nagarjun – Suryalanka – Vijaywada

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My favorite, never take the route back which you take to reach a destination, thus maximizing the opportunity to explore and know more. There are so many places in AP to Visit, so it was a week long plan to make a trip. I had 3 days in spare and almost 700-800km or budget based on my car’s milage. We were longing for Suryalanka beach from long, its the nearest beach from Hyderabad, not much advised in summer but still a beach is my attraction. We listed down, bora caves, bellum caves, warrangal, vijaywada, srisailam, nagarjun sagar, suryalanka, vishakhapatnam and many more. Finally, friday afternoon I decided for Srisailam, a piligrimage with just 200 odd km away from my home in Hyderabad. So, I texted my wife and my brother in law (he was on a short visit to our place) that pack your bags we are going to “Suryalanka”… that was an inadvertent mistake. Which I did not realize until I reached home from office. I was surprised to know that my family was apparently happy to know that we are going ot Suryalanka. I spoiled their excitement admitting the mistake.

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Solo Travel, Himachal Tribal Circuit тАУ Spiti Valley

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Next morning brought a very pleasant surprise. In the morning, I was having tea in the hotel balcony, clicking pictures of the serenity of Spiti valley. One youngster arrived in the compound of the hotel on a bike. It took me a while to recognize that he was one of the two boys from Mumbai whom I had met three days ago at the time of land slide traffic hold up near Karcham. Thus far, I was thinking that the bikers must have turned back from Nako village, where the road was totally destroyed. I was curious to know, how they had crossed that stretch. He [Alok} informed me that when they reached Nako village, being a Sunday, there was no BRO labor at Nako. So, they took a night halt in Nako village and next morning, with the help of BRO labor, they lifted their bikes across the steel girder. Hats off to these adventurous souls.

In Kaza also, I had to hire a car for visiting Key monastery and Kibber village [highest altitude village in the world- accessible by road}. In these valleys, government buses to remote villages go in the evening and return early next morning. Thus, 4-5 hour trip by car would take two days by public transport. We went about 7 kms. on the highway towards Manali and then took a right turn uphill for Kye monastery. It is an old monastery some 15 kms. from Kaza and the uphill road is good. But this monastery is not considered as important as Tabo and Dhankar monasteries by the Buddhists. The monastery is in much better shape, compared to the Dhankar monastery.

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Go Goa Gone !

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Places to eat:
Viva Panjim: The best Goan food ever. Period
Brittos: Amazing desserts.
Nick’s Place: Baga
Curlies: Anjuna: Sea food wood fired pizza, Hookah’s and Grilled Fish.
Suaza Loboz: Calangute: Good sea and Goan food.
Infantaria: Baga: For breakfast. Sandwitches and Pan cakes are worth the money spent.
A small desi joint just before Baga beach: For breakfast of stuffed paratha’s, masala omellete and tea/coffee.
Food court near calangute: For 24*7 Multicuisine food. Not bad, not good.

Places to Visit/Things to do:
Beaches:
Baga for a touristy feel, and watersports. Watersports are quite affordable here, and you can get a package deal of Parasailing, Jet ski, bumper, banana rides for rougly Rs 12-1500 per person.
Mandrem: For calm, quite and relaxation.
Curlies: Tip, go post lunch as by evening theres a lot of rush which everyone might not like.
Arambol/Ashwem: For a firang goan feel.

Places:
Old Goa: Basilica of Bom Jesus, Old portuguese colonies.
Chapora/Dil Chahta hai Fort.
Any of the casinos in Panjim.
LPK @Candolim or Club Cubana @Arpora for discs.
Manchester United Cafe @Baga if you are into sports and follow the team.

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Doing nothing in Fagu, beyond Shimla

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I must tell you readers about Fagu-which is 23km away from Shimla (and 3km from Kufree) is a great place for doing nothing and morning walks among apple and potato fields. Fagu is ,situated on the Hindustan Tibet Road at a height of about 2500 mts. We drove through Chhotta Shimla,and other crowed parts on to the road to Wildflower Hall and Kufri, stopping on the way to enjoy the fantastic views. You go thro the Victory Tunnel to CHHOTA SHIMLA- part of Kannaur Shimla, through Sanjauli,,cross another tunnel, through wooded forest toward KUFRI which is about 19 km from Shimla ,thro KUFRI by-pass and Fagu is 3km from Kufri on the Hindustan -Tibet road. It took us about 90 minutes, in our Skoda to reach the hotel of HP Tourism — Peach Blossom. Its a small village with only few small typical shops selling essential, nothing else. But the place is dotted with Apple gardens, terraced fields, potato fields etc . There was another group of People from Mumbai–all senior citizens, enjoying the place. We went down the hill though the apple gardens and fields. you can literally walk for hours- surrounded by Himalyan range so close,you could almost touch it. We were lucky that during our stay from 3rd April to 5th April, it became very very cold and we could see fresh snow falling on the peaks, and the whole area was totally covered by low clouds for hours.

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рдШреБрдордХреНрдХрдбрд╝ рдХреА рджрд┐рд▓реНрд▓реА : рддреАрди рдореВрд░реНрддрд┐ рднрд╡рди

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рддрд╛рд░рд╛рдордВрдбрд▓ рдХреЗ рдмреАрдЪреЛ-рдмреАрдЪ рдПрдХ рд╡рд┐рд╢реЗрд╖ рдкреНрд░рдХрд╛рд░ рдХреЗ рдкреНрд░реЛрдЬреЗрдХреНрдЯрд░ рдиреЗ рдзреАрд░реЗ-рдзреАрд░реЗ рдХреНрд░рд┐рдпрд╛рд╢реАрд▓ рд╣реЛрдХрд░ рдЧреЛрд▓рд╛рдХрд╛рд░ рдЫрдд рд░реБрдкреА рдкрд░рджреЗ рдХреЛ рдЕрдкрдиреЗ рдкреНрд░рдХрд╛рд╢ рд╕реЗ рдврдХ рджрд┐рдпрд╛. рдЖрдХрд╛рд╢рдЧрдВрдЧрд╛, рддрд╛рд░рд╛рдордВрдбрд▓, рдЧреНрд░рд╣-рдирдХреНрд╖рддреНрд░ рдЖрджрд┐ рдмреНрд░рд╣реНрдорд╛рдВрдбреАрдп рдЖрдХреГрддрд┐рдпреЛрдВ рдиреЗ рдкреНрд░рдХрдЯ рд╣реЛрдХрд░ рддрд╛рд░рд╛рдордВрдбрд▓ рдХреА рдЫрдд рдХреЛ рд╡рд╛рд╕реНрддрд╡рд┐рдХ рдЖрдХрд╛рд╢ рдХреЗ рд░реВрдк рдореЗрдВ рдкрд░рд┐рд╡рд░реНрддрд┐рдд рдХрд░ рджрд┐рдпрд╛. рдмреНрд░рд╣реНрдорд╛рдВрдбреАрдп рдЦрдЧреЛрд▓ рдХреА рдХреНрд░рд┐рдпрд╛рдУрдВ рдЬреИрд╕реЗ рдмреНрд░рд╣реНрдорд╛рдгреНрдб рдХреА рдЙрддреНрдкрддреНрддрд┐, рддрд╛рд░реЛрдВ рдХреЗ рдмрдирдиреЗ рдирд╖реНрдЯ рд╣реЛрдиреЗ рдХреА рдкреНрд░рдХреНрд░рд┐рдпрд╛, рдЖрдХрд╛рд╢рдЧрдВрдЧрд╛ рдХрд╛ рдмрдирдирд╛, рдЧреНрд░рд╣ рдирдХреНрд╖рддреНрд░, рд╕реМрд░ рдкрд░рд┐рд╡рд╛рд░ рдХреЗ рдЧреНрд░рд╣реЛрдВ рдХреЗ рдЖрдкрд╕реА рд╕рдореНрдмрдиреНрдз рдФрд░ рдЙрдирдХреА рдЧрддрд┐, рднреНрд░рдордг, рдкрд░рд┐рдХреНрд░рдорд╛ рдЖрджрд┐ рдЕрдиреЗрдХ рдЬрд╛рдирдХрд╛рд░рд┐рдпреЛрдВ рдХреЛ рдмрд┐рдЦреЗрд░рддрд╛ рд╣реБрдЖ рддрд╛рд░рд╛рдордВрдбрд▓ рдХрд╛ рд╢реЛ рдкреНрд░рдЧрддрд┐ рдкрд░ рдерд╛. рдмреНрд░рд╣реНрдорд╛рдгреНрдб рдХреЗ рдирдХреНрд╖рддреНрд░, рдЖрдХрд╛рд╢рдЧрдВрдЧрд╛, рд╕реМрд░ рдкрд░рд┐рд╡рд╛рд░ рдФрд░ рдЧреНрд░рд╣реЛрдВ рдЖрджрд┐ рдХреЛ рдЕрдЪреНрдЫреА рдкреНрд░рдХрд╛рд░ рд╕реЗ рд╕рдордЭрдиреЗ рд╣реЗрддреБ рддрд╛рд░рд╛рдордВрдбрд▓ рд╡рд┐рд╢реЗрд╖ рдЙрдкрдпреЛрдЧреА рд╣реИ.

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рдХреЗрджрд╛рд░рдирд╛рде рдпрд╛рддреНрд░рд╛ 2014 тАУ рд╕реЛрдирдкреНрд░рдпрд╛рдЧ рд╕реЗ рдХреЗрджрд╛рд░рдирд╛рдеред

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рд░рд╛рдордмрд╛рдбрд╝рд╛ рдкрд╣реБрдБрдЪ рддреЛ рд╣реЛрд╢ рдЙрдбрд╝ рдЧрдПред рд╕рд┐рд░реНрдл рд░рд╛рдордмрд╛рдбрд╝рд╛ рдирд╛рдо рдХреЗ рдЕрд▓рд╛рд╡рд╛┬а рдкрд░ рд╕рд╣реА рдорд╛рдиреЗ рдореЗ рдХреБрдЫ рдирд╣реАрдВ рдмрдЪрд╛ рдерд╛ред рдЕрднреА┬а рдореИрдВ рдордВрджрд╛рдХрдиреА рдирджреА рдХреЗ рдмрд╛рдПрдБ рдУрд░ рдЪрд▓ рд░рд╣рд╛ рдерд╛ рд▓реЗрдХрд┐рди рд░рд╛рдордмрд╛рдбрд╝рд╛ рдмрд╛рдж рдЖрдЧреЗ рдХрд╛ рдкреВрд░рд╛ рд░рд╛рд╕реНрддрд╛ рдЬрд┐рд╕ рдкрд╣рд╛рдбрд╝ рдкрд░ рдмрдирд╛ рдерд╛ рд╡реЛ рдкрд╣рд╛рдбрд╝ рдкрд┐рдЫрд▓реЗ рд╕рд╛рд▓ рдврд╣ рдЧрдпрд╛ рдерд╛ред рд╕реАрдзрд╛ рдмреЛрд▓реВрдБ рддреЛ рд░рд╛рдордмрд╛рдбрд╝рд╛ рдмрд╛рдж рдкреНрд░рд╢рд╛рд╢рди рдирдпрд╛ рд░рд╛рд╕реНрддрд╛ рдмрдирд╛рдпрд╛ рдерд╛ред рдирдП рд░рд╛рд╕реНрддреЗ рдкрд░ рдЬрд╛рдиреЗ рд▓рд┐рдП рдмрд╛рдПрдБ рдУрд░ рд╕реЗ рдордВрджрд╛рдХрдиреА рдХреЛ рдПрдХ рдкреБрд▓ рдХреЗ┬а рдЬрд░рд┐рдП рдкрд╛рд░ рдХрд░рдХреЗ рджрд╛рдПрдБ рдУрд░ рдЬрд╛рдирд╛ рдерд╛ред рдФрд░ рдЕрднреА рддрдХ рдЗрд╕ рдкреБрд▓ рдкрд░ рдХрд╛рдо рдЪрд▓ рд░рд╣рд╛ рдерд╛ред

рдХрд┐рддрдиреЗ рднрдпрд╛рдирдХ рд░реВрдк рд╕реЗ рдЬрд▓рдЬрд▓рд╛ рдЖрдпрд╛ рд╣реЛрдЧрд╛ред рд░рд╛рдордмрд╛рдбрд╝рд╛ рдХрд╛ рдирд╛рдореЛрдирд┐рд╢рд╛рди рдорд┐рдЯрд╛ рджрд┐рдпрд╛ред рдореЗрд░реА рдкрд┐рдЫрд▓реА рдпрд╛рддреНрд░рд╛рдУрдВ рдореЗ рдореИрдВ рдФрд░ рдореЗрд░рд╛ рд╕рд╛рдереА рдпрд╣реАрдВ рдкрд░ рд╡рд┐рд╢реНрд░рд╛рдо рдХрд┐рдпрд╛ рдХрд░рддреЗ рдереЗ рдФрд░ рдкреЗрдЯ рднрд░ рдкрд░рд╛рдБрдареЗ рдЦрд╛рдпрд╛ рдХрд░рддреЗ рдереЗред рдпрд╣рд╛рдБ рдкрд░ рд░рд╛рдд рдХреЛ рд╕реЛрдиреЗ рдХрд╛ рдЗрдВрддрдЬрд╝рд╛рдо рднреА рд╣реБрдЖ рдХрд░рддрд╛ рдерд╛ред рдРрд╕реА рд╣реА рдореЗрд░реА рдПрдХ рдпрд╛рддреНрд░рд╛ рдореЗ рдХреЗрджрд╛рд░рдирд╛рде рдХреЗ рджрд░реНрд╢рди рд╕реЗ рд▓реМрдЯрддреЗ рд╡рдХрд╝реНрдд рд╣рдордиреЗ рд░рд╛рдд рдХреЗ 2 рдмрдЬреЗ рдпрд╣реАрдВ рд░рд╛рдордмрд╛рдбрд╝рд╛ рдкрд░ рдПрдХ рджреВрдХрд╛рди рд╡рд╛рд▓реЗ рд╕реЗ рд╡рд┐рдирддреА рдХрд░рдХреЗ рдХреБрдЫ рдЦрд╛рдиреЗ рдХреА рдкреЗрд╢рдХрд╢ рдХреА рдереАред рдЙрд╕ рд╡рдХрд╝реНрдд рдЙрд╕рдХреЗ рдкрд╛рд╕ рд╕рд┐рд░реНрдл рдЖрд▓реВ рдХреА рд╕рдмреНрдЬрд╝реА рдереАред рд╣рдо рдЙрд╕ рд╕рд╛рд▓ 6 рджреЛрд╕реНрдд рдЧрдП рдереЗред рд╕рднреА рднреВрдЦреЗ рдереЗ рд╣рдорд╛рд░реА рд╣рд╛рд▓рдд рдкрд░ рджреБрдХрд╛рдирджрд╛рд░ рдХреЛ рддрд░рд╕ рдЖрдпрд╛ рдФрд░ рдмреЛрд▓рд╛ рдХрд┐ рдЪрд▓реЛ рдареАрдХ рд╣реИ рдЕрдВрджрд░ рдЖ рдЬрд╛рдУ рдФрд░ рдкрд╣рд▓реЗ рдЪрд╛рдп рдкреА рд▓реЛ рддрдмрддрдХ рдореИрдВ рдЖрдЯрд╛ рдЧреВрдБрдж рджреЗрддрд╛ рд╣реВрдБред рдЧрд░реНрдо-рдЧрд░реНрдо рд░реЛрдЯреА рдФрд░ рдЖрд▓реВ рдХреА рд╕рдмреНрдЬрд╝реА рдЦрд╛рдХрд░ рдордЬрд╝рд╛ рдЖ рдЧрдпрд╛ рдерд╛ред рддреЛ рдореЗрд░рд╛ рдпреЗ рд╡рд╛рдХреНрдп рд╕реБрдирд╛рдиреЗ рдХрд╛ рддрд╛рддреНрдкрд░реНрдп рдпрд╣ рд╣реИ рдХрд┐ рд░рд╛рдордмрд╛рдбрд╝рд╛ рдЕрдкрдиреЗ рдЖрдк рдореЗ рдПрдХ рд╕рдореНрдкреВрд░реНрдг рдХрд╕рдмреЗ рдХреА рддрд░рд╣ рдерд╛ред рдЬрд╣рд╛рдБ рдкрд░ рдпрд╛рддреНрд░рд╛ рд╕реАрдЬрди рдореЗ рд▓реЛрдЧ рд╣рдЬрд╛рд░реЛрдВ рдХреА рд╕рдВрдЦреНрдпрд╛ рдореЗ рд╣реЛрддреЗ рдереЗред┬а┬а рдпрд╣реАрдВ рдкрд░ рдЦрдЪреНрдЪрд░ рд╕реНрдЯреИрдВрдб рднреА рд╣реБрдЖ рдХрд░рддрд╛ рдерд╛ред рд▓реЗрдХрд┐рди рдЗрд╕ рдмрд╛рд░ рд╕рдм рдЦрддреНрдоред рдЬреЛ рдкрд╣рд▓реА рдмрд╛рд░ рдЧрдпрд╛ рд╣реЛрдЧрд╛ рд╡реЛ рдХрд▓реНрдкрдирд╛ рдФрд░ рдпрдХреАрди рдЕрднреА рдирд╣реАрдВ рдХрд░ рд╕рдХрддрд╛ рдХрд┐ рд░рд╛рдордмрд╛рдбрд╝рд╛ рдкрд░ рдХреИрд╕рд╛ рдХрд╣рд░ рдЯреВрдЯрд╛ рдерд╛ред

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