04 Apr

The retreat of the tide

The Emerald Islands of Andaman and Nicobar-II

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Our plan was to take a government ferry to Havelock and halt there for two days. For our return journey we planned to take the Makruzz back to Port Blair. We had to wake up at 5 in the morning to catch the ferry which leaves at  6:30 am. The harbour at Port Blair is lively even at these early hours as it caters to to the goods coming in from the mainland, as well as from nearby countries like Thailand. The ferry which we were to travel on, was operated by the Shipping Corporation of India. Our reserved seats in the first class compartment akin to the Indian Railways chair car coaches made our travel comfortable. During the journey to Havelock, you are free to go on deck. Travelers can hear the soothing sound of the waves hitting the craft and enjoy the vast expanse of the ocean. The blue sea, and the green emeralds dotting them, complement each other, and add to the experience. After standing on deck for 15 minutes, we decided to get a quick nap. When we woke up, the ferry was docking at the Havelock Jetty. After getting off the ship, we were picked up by a taxi our friends had arranged.  We were dropped at our hotel, a government enterprise called the “Dolphin Hotel”. There are various grades of rooms available and it is important to reserve the rooms early.You may reserve the rooms through online payment on the website. Make sure to get a sea facing cottage. The drawback about Dolphin Hotel was  that though it was set in a nice sea-facing location, it did not have a beach.There are a multitude of options to stay at in at Havelock, which suit all budgets.

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Summer Road Trip – Badrinath Bound

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The first glimpse of Badrinath is mesmerising!! It is nestled between the Nar and Narayan ranges. The towering Neelkanth lies just behind the Narayan Parvat on which the Badrinath shrine has been built. In the pristine morning sunlight and the crystal clear visibility of this place, this brilliant megalith has a strange magnetism. I think everyone who visits this place must be a little bit under its spell. [Pic: Neelkanth] The little settlement haphazardly built around the temple is but a random patchwork of colours in a vast magnificent landscape meant to command… dominate… enthral… hypnotise… inspire… all at once!

The lofty snow capped peaks in the backdrop of the gurgling Alaknanda far below … this is the place which has so much spirituality that you can almost reach out and touch it. Nothing is godlier than nature itself!
It really puts things into perspective. One senses how small, insignificant and petty are human egos, wants and conflicts in a scale this extravagant. It is at once uplifting and calming… a place I felt at peace with myself and the world at large. The Himalayas in their splendorous beauty! I’ll let the pictures do the talking…

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Summer Road Trip – Birding in Lansdowne

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The next two days are packed with bird watching. The commonest of the birds around command our attention for they are new to us plains dwellers. The ubiquitous Himalayan Bulbul, Blue Whistling Thrush and the Russet Sparrows are everywhere. In fact, we do not see any house sparrows there at all! The Streaked Laughing thrush is trying to catch our attention by peaking at us from just beyond the tree trunk. The Black headed Jay is wandering around as common as the Rock Pigeon in the plains!

Meanwhile, two green birds fly up to a nearby tree. There is a distinct yellow on them and the flight indicates woodpeckers. We hurry and try to get in position for at least a record shot to identify the specie. The Lesser Yellownape it is! Hard on the heels of this pair is another pair, this one of the Brown fronted Woodpecker… birds are raining down on us hard and fast! The Himalayan Woodpeckers are also plentiful. The Grey headed Woodpecker makes an appearance… I am very happy. The bird count for the trip is increasing rapidly.

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Taksang Gompa: A Holy Trek in Bhutan

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Some more local families overtook us and surged forward at a fast pace, almost a routine walk for them. I wanted to keep my own steady pace using the umbrella as walking stick. At the age of 68, one needs to listen to one’s body and not rush to compete with others. We pushed every step, slow and steady and continued climbing. My thigh and calf muscles started aching demanding rest. As we kept climbing my breathing became harder and started roaring into my ears. We trudged on. The mountain breeze, when it came, helped me like a breath of fresh air. A crow hovered upwind in search of a prey perhaps. The climb became grimmer as we continued to angle towards the top. My shirt, which had been soaked with sweat, now felt stiff and uncomfortable. I wiped the perspiration from my forehead that was trickling into my eyes. I glanced at the rock face towards my right and saw the holy Gompa across that looked like toy houses stuck together on the rock face with glue. It became bigger as we climbed further up and reduced the distance with the rock face. We pushed slowly with no sense of hurry. The aroma of the jungle was printed on every whiff of breeze that I savored. The mist rose from the valley below and started blotting out the tumbled slopes of the rocky cliff below the Gompa.
After about an hour and a half we reached a midpoint, rested and sipped water. It would be unwise to rest for too long as once the body gets cold it will be difficult to climb up, better keep the body warm and maintain the rhythm of the climb.

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Trip to Bhutan – Thimpu, Paro and Phuntsoling

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We met our guide who took us to our destination, Galling Resort, about 3 kms away from town along a graveled road. Located on the banks of Paro chu; the property was tastefully constructed and painted in unique mud color ethnic Bhutanese style. The view from the balcony was breathtaking with Paro Chu rumbling right in front across the road, part of Paro beyond and finally the valley rising to meet the misty mountains that made the distant horizon. Anyone with an eye for the nature or a plain nature lover is bound to be enchanted by the natural beauty, landscape that would make not spending couple of days almost impossible. We did just that. The resort was warm, comfortable with a cozy lounge, wood paneled bedroom and comfortable attached bath. Our rooms had the same view as balcony and decided to keep the curtains drawn and windows opened so as to be part of the beautiful view.

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Trip to Bhutan – Road trip from Siliguri to Thimpu

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It was getting dark so without wasting time, just after a cup of tea, we set off to experiment the capital street with a look-see walk. The street was clean and lined by weeping willow trees that looked very nice. The buildings were Bhutanese style architecture that had four to five storey. We walked through light drizzle along the stone paved sidewalk. Surprisingly a melodious and rhythmic Western music filled the air; the source of the melody was a small open air stand that was extension of the main street. It looked quite unusual to see Bhutanese boys in traditional dress playing and crooning Western Tuned Bhutanese songs. A group of about 100 young men and women, gathered around the band stand were gyrating with the melody and rhythm of the music. All were wearing Bhutanese traditional dress, no jeans, pants and skirts. The dress code is strict; men wear “Gho” a kimono like knee length gown type of dress, tied by a long kamarbandh with long shocks and shoes. Women’s dress is called, “Kira”, an elegant wrapped around skirt like with a check or brocade jacket for the top. Both Tibetan and Bhutanese dress is alike except for few variations. There is also the marked difference in the material used in Bhutan. Whereas Tibetan men and women fancy any type of clothing materials for their “Bakkhu”, Bhutanese use only the traditional and colorful Bhutan made check cloth material for their “Gho” and “Kira”.

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Toronto – Royal Ontario Museum (ROM)

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In the visitors guide we can find special mention of “ICONIC must see treasures of the ROM” of each level. Thus one can not miss the special display. We took almost 01 hour to complete level 1 itself. As usual we got tired and hungry so we went to Café at ROM.We were sure that we will not get anything vegetarian to eat and may be we have to returned with just eating French fries.

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Burha luit tumi Burha luit buwa kiyo?

Summer Vacation: A beautiful river and a few Necklaces – IV

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These are some of the places of Kolkata, which you may like to visit if you travel to the city. There are good and there will be bad things in any city. There are plenty of examples or perception to believe the city is not worth a visit or a second look. Whatever I find attractive, may not be as attractive to you. Everyone has their own rights to judge things differently. However, there are so many places around in any city, not in Kolkata alone, to come and explore.

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ढेला (कॉर्बेट) से मरचुला की मस्ती का सफ़र (भाग – 2)

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पानी इतना साफ़ था की नीचे के पत्थर साफ़ चमक रहे थे। इतनी छोटी सी जगह पर इतना आनंद भी लिया जा सकता है, सोचा न था। धूप धीरे धीरे हलकी हो रही थी और पानी भी अब ज्यादा ठंडा लगने लगा था इसलिए सोचा कि अब यहा से चलना चाहिए। इसी बीच मनमोहन दो तीन बार पानी से निकला तो हर बार एक मच्छर उसको काटता था और वो चिल्लाता था और गालिया देता था। हम सब हँसते थे कि मच्छर को गोरी चमड़ी पसंद आ रही है लेकिन अब जैसे ही हम सभी पानी से बाहर निकले तो उस मच्छर ने मेरे पैर मे बहुत तेज काटा, अब चिल्लाने की बारी मेरी थी और हसने की मनमोहन की। खैर हमने जल्दी जल्दी कपड़े पहने और वहा से बाहर की और चल दिए।

पानी मे इतनी देर रहने के बाद अब काफी थकान महसूस हो रही थी इसलिए प्रदीप को भी बोला कि अब सीधे गेस्ट हाउस चले लेकिन उसने रास्ते मे गाड़ी एक लम्बे से ब्रिज के सामने रोक दी। जगह अच्छी थी लेकिन अब रुकने के मन ही नहीं था लेकिन फिर भी उतर गए की कुछ फोटो ही खीच ले। उतरने पर देखा कि वो केंद्रीय जल आयोग से सम्बंधित था। हम वहा पाँच दस मिनट ही रुके और फिर वापिस चल दिए। वापिस आते हुए हम मोहान से थोड़ा आगे ही निकले थे कि देखा वहा बहुत भीड़ थी, हम भी गाड़ी से बाहर आ गए तो पता चला कि हाथी का बच्चा झाड़ियो मे उलझ गया है, सड़क के एक तरफ जंगल ही था और उसमे थोड़ा सा अन्दर ही वो बच्चा फसा हुआ था और उसके पास हाथियों का पूरा झुण्ड था, उनको देखने के लिए ही वहा भीड़ जमा थी। लोग हाथियों को परेशान कर रहे थे और बार बार अन्दर जा रहे थे जो कि खतरनाक था अगर एक बार हाथी पीछे भाग लेते तो भगदड़ मच जाती। हाथियों ने बच्चे को झाड़ियो से छुड़ा लिया था लेकिन वो वही थे। हम लोगो ने वहा से निकलना ही सही समझा। रास्ते मे हमने रामनगर से जरूरी सामान ख़रीदा और वापिस गेस्ट हाउस की और चल दिए।

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ढेला (कॉर्बेट) की मस्ती और रोमांच

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हमें घुमते हुए वहा के गार्ड ने बोला कि सर यहाँ से बाहर मत जाइएगा, इस चारदीवारी की अन्दर ही रहना और पीछे के रास्ते से तो बाहर निकलना ही मत। हमने पुछा कि यहाँ भी डर है क्या तो उसने बोला साहब जी एक शेर तो रोज ही पीछे वाले रास्ते से जाता था और हाथी तो कई बार इन खेतो मे घुस चुके है। जोश मे तो थे ही तभी सोच लिया कि खाना खाकर एक चक्कर तो लगायेगे बाहर का। हम जल्दी से डाइनिंग रूम मे पहुचे, खाना तैयार था, दाजू ने तुरंत लड़को को परोसने का आदेश कर दिया। खाना मजेदार था। खाना खाकर हम वापिस कमरों मे आ गए और दाजू को भी अन्दर आने के लिए बोला। अन्दर आने पर हमने पूछा कि बाहर कहा तक जाया जा सकता है। वो पक्ष मे नहीं थे लेकिन हमने भी बोला कि हम अन्दर जंगल मे नहीं जायेगे सिर्फ बाहर सड़क तक तो जा सकते है और वैसे भी गाड़ी से बाहर तो निकलना नहीं था। । तब जाकर वो तैयार हुआ।

बारह से ज्यादा का समय हो रहा था और हम बाहर गाड़ी मे बैठे थे। आधा घंटा हम सड़को पर गाड़ी दौड़ाते रहे। वहा पेड़ो के बीच कच्चा रास्ता था जो दिन मे शोर्टकट के रूप में प्रयोग होता था, उस रास्ते से जब निकले तो रोंगटे खड़े हो गए बिलकुल सुनसान, सड़क भी कच्ची, डर लग रहा था कि अगर गाड़ी फस गयी तो निकालनी मुश्किल हो जायेगी क्योकि छोटी गाड़ी थी, अँधेरे मे हिरनों के झुण्ड भी दिखे जिनकी सिर्फ आखे चमक रही थी। वो अभी तक के सबसे यादगार और रोमांचक क्षण थे, शायद ऐसा रोमांच कभी जंगल मे भी नहीं आया था। प्रदीप का मन तो वापिस आने के लिए कर ही नहीं रहा था। एक बजे हम वापिस आये तो थोड़ी देर कमरों के बाहर ही बैठ गए कि कल कहा जाए। जिम कॉर्बेट के बिजरानी गेट से तो प्रवेश मिल सकता था लेकिन जो जानवर अन्दर दिखते थे वो बाहर ही दिख गए थे फिर ऐसा रोमांच भी हो गया था। इसलिए चार हजार रूपये खर्च करना अक्लमंदी नहीं लगी। प्रदीप ने बोला कि सर कल मे आपको मरचुला लेकर चलूगा, आपको जगह पसंद आएगी। मरचुला के बारे मे हमने कभी सुना नहीं था लेकिन कही तो जाना था इसलिए वही सही। जगह पक्की हो गयी तो हम भी अपने कमरों मे आ गए सोने के लिए।

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