Uttarakhand

A Himalayan Pilgrimage – 1

By Rajeev

When we entered the valley of Badrinath it was a sight to cherish and worth all the efforts. The sun was in full view, though clouds were meandering around. The snow-clad peaks were shining in full glory above the valley. There was not a hint of discomfort which most of us felt at KN, though the altitude of BN at 3411m is only slightly less than that of KN at 3584m. We felt as if we are at Hardwar!

When we reached Srinagar, we thought of it as a lowly (in altitude) place, whereas in the past, on our way up, we thought we were up in heavens when we reached here. Srinagar is indeed a beautiful place with a wide riverbed. One wished one had an extra day for this place.

Driving from Lucknow to Nainital and Corbett – Road Review

By Patrick

The road upto Bareilly was generally good and but bad in a few patches. However, Bareilly to Lalkuan was a different story altogether. I believe there is a bypass outside of Bareilly but I couldn’t find it so I had to go through the city. If someone gets to know of the location of the bypass do inform. The number of trucks have to be seen to be believed. Coupled with bad roads it’s definitely a slow track. There’s some kinda factory before Lalkuan and trucks are lined up on both sides of the road. Where there are trucks, there are traffic jams and coupled with atrocious truck drivers the experience is tough. There is also extensive construction work on this sector.

The road improves dramatically from Lalkuan. A stop is advised before the climb from Kathghodham to Nainital. The Drive from this point on is smooth cos the roads are very good, maintained well and aren’t as steep as people would have you believe.

In the Lap of Nature – Jim Corbett National Park

By Patrick Jones

At last we reached Dhikala. It was a cluster of small buildings at the edge of the trees and beginning of a vast grassland which reminded me of some African hamlet deep inside the jungle. The buildings are very much in tune with its surroundings and have appeared to be from the late 19th century. However, it is protected by electric fence. The complex is situated high above the banks of Ramganga but one is not allowed to venture out into the river for fear of crocodiles and other animals.

The view from the complex was simply awesome; to one side is the forest, the expanse of grassland on the other and on the third side stood blue mountains in a coat of mist far beyond the river bank. The breeze that flows brings in the fresh smell of the forest. Sitting under a huge tree, soaking in nature’s beauty all around, one simply is transported to another world, far from the madding crowd and toxic fumes – a world without worries.

Roopkund Trek

By Ajeet

The trek starts from Wan. Wan—10kms—Bedni Bugyal—10—-Baguabasa—-7—Roopkund. The motor route follows the Rishikesh Badrinath highway NH58 till Karanprayag, after which you take the road for Gwaldom. From Tharali, the road to be taken is towards Debal- Lohajung. From Debal, ditch your vehicle and take a local cab, since the road requires a vehicle with good clearance from ground. If you are insane like us and did manage to drive till Lohajung with a lot of pre-inspection of the road and post inspection of your vehicle after crossing the muddy truck track hurdles, do drop it now and take a cab for 500 rupees for 12 kms to Wan where clearance only matters if skills are to match. At one point during the last stretch, the cab really got stuck in mud at a turn which had a steep fall on the driver’s side, tyres deep in 2 feet high slush and the Jeep was swerving unpredictably for us, thankfully the driver knew how much mud wrestling was good for his jeep. To add spice to the events there was a herd of wild boars crossing the road 10 yards in front of us. At Wan we met this interesting guy called Herasingh Bugyali , who introduced himself as an all-rounder. His all rounder definition comprised of being a shop-owner but also being able to lift heavy backpacks and doing roopkund and back in a day. That’s pretty much true about everybody there. So we got two such all rounders or porters and started the trek the next morning at 9, one hour behind fellow Noida trekkers from an IC chip design company. We caught them resting and sharing a cigarette within half a km of the trek. They reached Bedni Bugyal at 10 pm that day, while we had caught lunch at Bedni at 2 pm (such benchmarking always impresses me). If you are carrying your own backpacks don’t imagine to do this one in 5 hours as the climb is attrocious-level-7. Attrocious-level-9 is the final Baguabasa to Roopkund stretch. You might think is this a travelogue or what, a deter-ogue, but trekking here is not easy. Oh and I haven’t told you why not to go to Roopkund between June to September( inclusive). Coz it rains and there’s nothing to see except fog and clouds and all that Trishul jazz, thoughts of views of Nandaghunti and Trishul will tease you. See what I mean.

Rain Fury in Chakrata, Uttarakhand in June 2013 (Part II)

By Gaurav

With loud jaikaras of mighty Lord, journey was resumed. It was going good for 10 odd kilometres, our car was leading the show with Atit car following us. Soon the task of clearing boulders and rocks from road started as they were all on the road due to landslides. We all were going mad by getting out of the car in the rain after every 200 m to get various kinds of blockages cleared. We were actually afraid by not seeing any human existence in the entire stretch of road and having not seen any vehicle crossing us in the past 3 hours. It was not a journey of 22 kms, it was manifolds, and appearing to be never ending due to disastrous hurdles coming our way. To add to our fear and bring our jaws out of the mouth, we saw a mighty river flowing over a bridge that we were supposed to cross. There was no point of going back, and crossing that flooding river over the bridge was a task we have never ever imagined, so after much courage both the cars decided to keep accelerating without any thought of applying brakes. Both the cars managed to cross the river but that courage comes with a price, and the bumper of our car was washed off by the river flowing perpendicularly to the motion of car with mighty pace. Had we even thought of applying brakes, we could have been flowing in river along with cars. We celebrated our victory of crossing the hurdle by clicking a photograph and moved ahead.

Serene Naukuchiatal & Bhimtal

By AJAY SHARMA

Sattal is another pristine and less polluted natural place in the area. Seven lakes interconnected and bounded by many hills from different sides never allow viewing the entire lakes together. The hillocks in the water obstruct a wide angle vision however, the greenery around with clear water beautifies the area mystically. Few good resorts and one KMVN TRH are located here offering a pacific stay in wilderness. Camps are also organized by locals on the back drops of the hills amidst the water, now gaining popularity gradually. Evening is very calm and solitary here since, it is located far from any near by localities, feelings of adversity may engulf family tourists. We however, enjoyed a boat ride, a red duck shaped paddle boat, yellow was not available but the kids were generous and happy with a red one too.

Nainital to Kausani and back to Delhi by road

By AJAY SHARMA

Though the entire Kumaon region is divinely beautiful, Kausani & Gwaldam are the authentic highlights due to its spectacular landscape with 300 km panoramic view of the range of Himalaya’s few of the very high peaks at hand shaking distance. The Nanda Devi and Trisul are the main attractions that attract tourists from far and near to glance the breathtaking scenic splendor at dawn which is unparallel. Mahatma Gandhi has rightly called the place the ‘Switzerland of India’. Located amidst dense Pine forest atop a ridge at an altitude of 1900 m, Kausani is a cool and tranquil place with limited tourist turnout hence still raw, retaining the natural essence.

Nainital – Kumaon’s Capital

By AJAY SHARMA

Sadiatal and its cascade also fall on the way just after climbing a few kilometers on the serpentine road. A short halt for photography there is never a bad idea. A little before reaching Nainital is Bara Pathar, an ideal Rock climbing spot conducted in supervision of trained professionals and maintained by Nainital Mountaineering Club. Horse riding activities are another attraction in the area. We have though neither tried hand in rock climbing nor horse riding but couldn’t ignore the next spot i.e. the Cave Garden just a few minutes from Bara Pathar. It is relatively a new tourist spot carved out of natural rocks as caves for a feel like entering the real caves named after predator viz. Panther Cave, Tiger Cave etc., a better place for kids rather. A KMVN run restaurant opposite to cave garden was a worth one to quench our hunger. By around 4 pm we reached Nainital. A hotel was the immediate search with safe parking space. Soon we found one just behind the famous and most expensive Manu Maharani. The Langdale Manor, though not a star hotel but it was very nice and comfortable with very professional and courteous staffs at a reasonable rate of Rs. 1,200/- for three including extra bedding (off season).

In Search of Tiger at Corbett Tiger Reserve

By AJAY SHARMA

The different zones offer varied landscapes with opportunities to sight different floras and faunas. The presence of animals varies in accordance with the landscape suitable to their habitats. The landscape of Jhirna is drier than in Dhikala and vegetation is mostly scrub. Jhirna was a farming village until 1994 when it was successfully relocated under Project Tiger. The abandoned farmland is gradually reverting to a wild state and is being managed to develop grassland habitat. The nearby terrain consists of numerous sots and narrow gorges running through typically Shiwalik landscape. The hills to the north of Jhirna are covered with dense patches of bamboo. Apart from being a good habitat for tiger, leopard and deer, the place hosts other interesting mammals like sloth bear and wild boar. A variety of birds can also be enjoyed here.

were informed that a male tiger is also reported wandering in the area during the early morning. There is a defined route for every visitor to follow from the entry gate which ends at the FRH inside the jungle. On the way there is a watch tower alongside the river for watching animals reaching at the stream for drinking water and bathing. We tried it but in vain. The spotted deer, peacocks, variety of birds including the sparrows were a delight to watch. Suddenly, the driver stopped the vehicle and we found some fresh pug marks of a tiger on the sand beside the road. After a few meters we spotted some scratch marks on a tree probably made in the past. These proofs however, evidenced the truth of story we were told by the nature guide about the male tiger visited the place early morning. Elephant herd might have walked away leaving signs of crushed bushes and flattened shrubs. The dream of sighting the mighty RBT remained a dream but it was good to see the evidence of their presence that retained the hope to see the king in future also.

Summer Road Trip – Kakdagaad Haridwar

By Naturebuff

Dinner is at a small Rajasthani Dhaba with really yummy food. One thing we have experienced throughout the trip is that the food has been consistently good in the small places and not once have we had any tummy upsets. It just reinforces my belief that one must have what the locals have in the places that they patronise… one really can’t go wrong then.

Summer Road Trip – Devariyatal (Deoriatal), Uttarakhand

By Naturebuff

Dusk is a beautiful time… especially in the mountains. The mandatory snaps are taken and Oooh and Ahhh over! We wonder what to do with ourselves without any light since candles are out of the question in tents when our guide comes with an LED lamp. It is really bright and good enough to play cards by. An engrossing evening indeed! In a while he gets dinner for us near the tent. We are very touched by this gesture. We see everyone else has had to go to the shop nearby for food but the ambience just outside our tents, near the water with an almost full moon shining is magical. He has even got the prickly nettle vegetable made which I had asked him about. This unpretentious yet delicious dinner and the exquisite atmosphere of this place will rank right up there as one of the most cherished moments of my life.

We are up before dawn in the hope that some of the misty shrouds have lifted enough to allow us at least a faint glimpse of the famed Chaukhamba. No such luck. To make up for it though, we hear numerous bird calls. Following them we head off towards the forest rest house. An enormous tree on the eastern bank of the lake with some of its branches hanging low over the water seems to be attracting a variety of birds. Many of them are taking turns in splashing around and having a quick bath right at the edge of the lake under the tree. We stand there mesmerised at the sight!

लैंसडाउन : मिट्टी की सौंधी खुशबू समेटे गाँव का तीर्थाटन

By Avtar Singh

मेरे पिताजी ने अपनी CPWD की नौकरी के दौरान कुछ समय जोशीमठ से आगे ओली में गुजारा था और वो वहाँ ITBP के कैम्प में रुकते थे, दरअसल उन्हें वहाँ कुछ सरकारी भवनों के निर्माण से सम्बन्धित कार्य करवाने होते थे और उनकी मदद के लिये स्थानीय मजदूर, खलासी और बेलदार का काम करते थे जो उनका सामान इत्यादि लेकर चलते थे तथा अन्य कार्यों में भी मदद करते थे, उनसे अपनी बातचीत को वो अक्सर हमसे साझा करते थे, कुछेक जुमले जो स्थानीय लोग सुनाते थे, और आज भी मुझे याद हैं, वो कुछ इस प्रकार से थे कि “पहाड़ का वासा, कुल का नासा”, और, “जो नदी के किनारे बसते हैं, नदी उन्हें बसने नही देती” और यदि उन बातों को फिलहाल में केदारनाथ में हुई भयंकर आपदा के परिपेक्ष्य में देखें तो ये मानना ही पड़ेगा कि अपने क्षेत्रों की जटिल परिस्थतियों को वो ही बेहतर ढंग से जानते-समझते है |

मैं अपने इस आलेख में ऐसा कोई दावा नही करने जा रहा कि मुझे इन गाँवों के बारे में कोई जानकारी है या मै उनकी रोजमर्रा की दुश्वारियों को दूसरों की अपेक्षा अच्छी तरह समझता हूँ | अपितु मेरा तो ये आलेख ही स्वयम अपने आप पर ही तंज़ (व्यंग्य,कटाक्ष) है कि एक बार की चढ़ाई-उतराई ने ही हमारी ये हालत कर दी कि उसके बाद काफ़ी समय तक रुक कर आराम करना पड़ा | वस्तुतः मै इस आलेख के माध्यम से उन क्षेत्रों के वासियों और खास तौर पर महिलायों के जज्बे और उनकी हिम्मत को अपना नमन करता हूँ जो कि अपनी घर-ग्रहस्थी के अलावा बाज़ार के कामों और अपने जानवरों को भी सम्भालती हैं, जिन रास्तों पर चलते ही हमारी सांस फूल जाती है, वहाँ वो अपने सर पर घास के गटठर या जलावन के लिए लकड़ियाँ उठाये, बिना किसी शिकायत के चलती रहती हैं, वो बच्चे भी दाद के हकदार हैं जो अपने स्कूल तक पहुंचने के लिए कई-कई किलोमीटर इन कच्चे-पक्के रास्तों से गुजरते है, जिनमे कई पहाड़ी नदियाँ भी आती है और जंगली जानवरों का खतरा भी हरदम बना रहता है, पर वो अपने अदम्य साहस और मजबूत जिजीविषा के बलबूते सारी विपरीत परिस्थतियों के बावजूद अपने हौसले को बनाये रखते हैं |

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