Traveling is good
First Story on this destination on Ghumakkar
As you enter the fort, you are greeted by this tall minar – Chand Minar. It used to be covered with Persian glazed tiles. Now they have whitewashed it in faded orange colour. You want to strangle the person who ordered this colour. The minar was built by Ahmed Shah II to celebrate the capture of the fort. To approach from the front one has to go through three bastions of fortified walls.
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Philadelphia has lots of statues in the parks and roads most of them of historical figures like Presidents and war heroes specially popular being President Lincoln’s statue on Kelly Drive, I could not take its picture as the bus was moving too fast. But I was able to take picture of the statue of chief justice John Marshall outside the west gate of Franklin Institute. Ever heard of a Judge’s statue in India? If yes please inform me. There is also a controversial statue of the Italian Stallion Sylvester Stallone as Rocky Balboa a must for movie buffs as the story of Rocky series is in Philly. The guides in the buses were very knowledgeable and were telling a lot of stories about not only the city but also some of the controversies going in the city. The controversy around Ricky’s statue was another one.
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A trip to Makkah normally takes about three hours, give or take. The actual distance from my village to it is about 290 km. This night, though, we took over ten hours to reach Makkah, and over 16 hours to finally reach the hotel rooms where we would all be staying. I would tell you all the sordid details, but suffice it to know that our agent had arranged the whole trip ILLEGALLY … that is, there was no payment made to the Government of Saudi Arabia for performance of a legal journey. We were performing Hajj at a very low cost … the cost would include the transportation to Makkah and the return from it, and the 11-persons-per-room stay in a hotel in Makkah. Food, internal travelling, comforts etc. were EXCLUDED. Of course, the organiser’s huge profit margin was INCLUDED in the 1800 Saudi Riyals per person package!
As we were not official pilgrims, the police stopped our bus at many places. At one spot, we were immediately directed to the opposite side and asked to return to Ta’if, the city from which we had just left; we tried to re-negotiate this barricade, and failed again. Then, in a burst of creativity, one of my co-passengers simply shifted one of the barricades aside and we drove past it, out of sight of the police! Ahead, as night deepened, most of us went off to sleep. The bus plodded on, inch by inch, as it neared Makkah. At the break of dawn, the driver woke us all and asked us to get off the bus, while he tried to get the bus past yet another police barricade. We got off, and walked past the lingering police with hundreds of other pilgrims in a similar predicament. Finding some flat, even ground on the side of the road, we all plopped there to await the bus that would come to pick us up. It was another two hours before it did. In the meantime, night turned into day and the sun climbed up, changing the weather from a balmy, warm one into an uncomfortable, hot one.
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We had information that this year Aurora would be in full swing due to high activities in the sun… My daughter had gifted me a new camera (lumix GF3) so I was ready to see and shoot Aurora this year. One day I woke up at 5, for drinking a glass of water and when I peeped out of my window, I saw a green colored cloud over my garden. I was excited that I was watching Aurora from inside my house. I ran and brought the camera, but by the time I fixed it, the green cloud left and a beautiful blue haze covered the sky.
So first attempt failed. Evening when we were watching our favorite TV serials, suddenly telephone rang and my friend Hilde was on the other side. She told me to go to certain place, If I wished to see Northern Lights. It was a wintery night and temprature was -4, with high winds blowing, but that did not bar us from rushing out. We drove by the downtown, and near the sea and watched the beautiful Reykjavik in night.
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In the last three posts of this series I have described everything about our short tour of Ajmer and Pushkar, now through this final…
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The Qutub Shahi tombs have a unique place in the history of Deccan and India as buried here are the rulers of Deccan from 1518, till Aurangzeb captured the Golconda fort by deceit and took the last emperor prisoner and shifted him to Daulatabad. So except for the seventh king Tana Shah (Abdul Hasan Qutub Shah), the previous 6 rulers and other members of the royal family are resting here. F
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Most of the forts you visited were predictable. But this fort has a surprise waiting at every gateway corner and beyond every wall. It is like being rewarded for your huffing and puffing at every level of this Wii game. You feel like a child bounding up every which way. There are water storage tanks with elaborate planning for rain harvesting, granaries, oil pits, natural sources of clean cold water and temples.
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With every sunrise, we rise. But did it ever come across your mind that while we’re still in the bed embracing the darkness of night, some other places are illuminated by the sun rays. It is witnessed in every country. Yes, in our country too.
So, where does the sun rise first in India?
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Jeddah has cityscapes on a large scale. Not for this city the narrow crowded bylanes of Mumbai; here, every street is built on a grand scale. Most streets (barring streets in old Jeddah and inside residential areas) are at least 8-10 lanes in width, with broad footpaths. There are bridges and under-passes, service roads on the side, and so on, in addition to the main thoroughfare. During most visits, in spite of using Google Maps and Navigation, I ended up getting on to the wrong ramp, or driving past a turn or missing a U-turn and having to drive an extra 5-10 kms to get back to where I wished to go.
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Nevertheless, Doha’s a well-planned city for sure. The roads are wide and traffic is quite organised. The best thing about Doha’s roads is that pedestrians are always given right of way. Since I was not aware of this on the first day, I stood on the pavement, waiting for the traffic light to turn red. To my surprise, all the cars stopped to let me cross. For a moment, I hesitated. Only when one of the drivers signalled for me to pass did I realise what was happening. Guess our desi car-owners can pick up a tip or two from Doha’s drivers!
However, our hotel was a complete letdown. It was supposed to be a five-star hotel, but didn’t seem to be worth even two stars. For one, it was just an unassuming brick building, lacking the grandeur and polish usually associated with Indian five-star hotels. Second, the bathrooms didn’t even have a bar of soap, leave alone any toiletries. When we asked for some water, the bell-boy, who happened to be an Indian, advised us to buy a mineral water bottle from a general store, which would cost us 1 Qatar Riyal (QAR), while the hotel would charge us 5 QAR. Rs 70 for a glass of water? What a rip-off!
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इन्दौर राज्य में तीन-तीन तुकोजीराव हुए हैं, इनमें से किसके नाम पर तुकोजीगंज नामकरण हुआ है, यह तो मुझे नहीं मालूम पर हां, रंगीनमिजाज़ तुकोजीराव तृतीय के रंगीन किस्से इन्दौर वासियों की जुबान पर अब भी रहते हैं। उन्होंने तीन शादियां की थीं – सीनियर मोस्ट महारानी का नाम था – चन्द्रावती बाई। जूनियर महारानी थीं – इन्दिरा बाई । तीसरी वाली अमेरिकन युवती – नैंसी अन्ना मिलर थीं जिनके साथ 12 मार्च, 1928 को तुकोजीराव तृतीय ने विवाह रचाया। विवाह के बाद वह पूरी तरह भारतीय रंग-ढंग में ढल गई थीं और उनका विवाह भी शर्मिष्ठादेवी के रूप में नामकरण के बाद शुद्ध हिन्दू रीति-रिवाज़ के मुताबिक हुआ था। 1907 में अमेरिका के सियेटल शहर में जन्मी नैंसी ने तुकोजीराव होलकर को पांच संतानें दीं, चार पुत्रियां और एक पुत्र। शर्मिष्ठाबाई का देहान्त अभी 1995 में हुआ है। कहा जाता है कि तीन पत्नियों के बावजूद तुकोजीराव अमृतसर के एक कार्यक्रम में मुमताज़ बेगम का डांस देखकर उस पर आशिक हो गये और उसे इंदौर ले आये। वह तुकोजीराव के प्रेम को घास भी नहीं डालती थी और राजवाड़े से भागने के कई बार प्रयत्न किये और अन्ततः एक बार इन्दौर से मसूरी जाते हुए रास्ते में दिल्ली में निगाह बचा कर भागने में सफल भी होगई। बस, तुकोजी राव को बहुत बुरा लगा, एक तो प्रेम की दीवानगी और ऊपर से राजसी अहं को ठेस जो लग गई थी। उनके चेले-चपाटे अपने राजा को खुश करने के चक्कर में मुमताज़ बेगम की खोज खबर लेते रहे और अन्ततः पता लगा ही लिया कि वह मुंबई में किसी के साथ रहती है। बस जी, तुकोजी राव के कर्मचारी मुंबई के हैंगिंग गार्डन में पहुंच गये और वहां जो मारकाट मची उसमें उस व्यक्ति की गोली लगने से मौत हो गई जिसके साथ मुमताज़ बेगम मुंबई में रहती थी और हैंगिंग गार्डन में घूम रही थी। अंग्रेज़ अधिकारियों ने इस कांड का पूरा फायदा उठाया और तुकोजीराव के दो कर्मचारियों को फांसी की सजा सुनाई गई और तुकोजीराव तृतीय को राज्य छोड़ना पड़ा। तुकोजीराव तृतीय की मृत्यु 1978 में पेरिस में हुई। उस समय वह 88 वर्ष के थे।
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Also known as Zanzibar mix, it’s an Indian inspired Zanzibari Tanzanian bowl of curry soup with lots of toppings. It’s packed with diverse flavors and textures. The ‘Mix’ is a bowl of smooth and tangy soup cooked with lemon and mango, with pieces of mashed potatoes, onions slices, peanuts and crispy bhajias immersed in it. It’s topped with a spoon of coconut chutney, a dash of red-hot chutney and a scoop of deep fried potato shavings sprinkled on top.
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