To read about one’s description on a very common hill station like Lansdowne is nothing new or exciting. I am really doubtful whether it generates any curiosity among the readers to read about it. Numerous posts on Lansdowne are available. Even more than dozen are on Ghummakar itself and hundreds on various sites on internet, with all the tiny details and, comprising the list of hotels and packages, which one can easily find. Then, why a new writer like me for this site becomes so adventures to write about a very well-known place. To be precise, this thought is even bothering me also, “Who will read your post?”, “Have people enough time and energy to waste on reading your article on Lansdowne?” Everyone knows it lies in Uttrakhand and around 270 kms away from Delhi, till Kotdwar, the way is more or less smooth, nothing exciting and exceptional. From kotdwar, steep hills of Lansdowne start to reach 1700 ft high from the sea level and the Head-Quarter of Garhwal Rifles is situated here…. Then, why, why, why???
The question is obvious but the answer is not, if there is any answer exists of these so many Ys, at least I do not know about it. I know only one thing that I am writing about it just for myself. During these visits, I got acquaintance with many people there. Some were happy and content for just one day of stay there but some others already spent weak or so and they were still not interested to leave …. This was quite unusual and surprising! So, I would like to pen down my own experiences which I got during my stay there and not thinking about anything else. My mind is feeling emptiness and a sense of spirituality is prevailing over me since from I returned from there. I decided not to write about any description about the place or my day to day based reportaz, having all the tiny details of what I did and where I went or what I ate etc. etc. If I will able to complete my story, then it will be only my experiences, my journey and my talks with the mother nature of this place and it will be my sincere thanks to the staff of “Hill view Shanti Raj Resort” for providing me and many other visitors to feel the nature at their door step. It will be my sincere thanks to Mr. Prem Tyagi for believing me and spare a few days from his very busy calendar to spend it on my behest in Lansdowne. And most importantly to my wife and son for providing me the pleasure and comfort of family… How can I forget them?
I would like to just share my thoughts on how the modern life style is distancing our kids from nature. They rarely get a chance to move out and to challenge their own self. The Adventurous and extreme sports, which require one’s physical as well as mental strength, are not so popular in our country. The kids and the youths of this modern time either prefer “hang out” in malls or “chill out” in discos and bars. But this is not their fault as they do not have options like in abroad; there they have numerous clubs to provide such thrill and excitement. So when we got the opportunity to be a part of fun filled activities amidst of nature’s lap at Shanti Raj Resort, which is the only place in the whole Lansdowne for having such a marvelous concept, we find it difficult to ignore this!
Of-course there is nothing extra ordinary to start your journey from Gurgaon and then taking Delhi to Meerut highway. You will reach Meerut city, then passing through Begum Pul to Mawana road and then reaching Kotdwar, which I narrated in one of my previous post on Lansdowne and that too in Hindi, Incidentally consisted all the minor details about the road conditions, its lush green mountain ranges and the aroma of the wind you feel, which when comes to you after filtering of long lines of Pines and Deodar trees. Surprisingly, even in the period of heavy mansoon and continuous land sliding here and there, the road becomes operational within a few hours, as the army itself takes charge of cleaning the debris and makes it fit for travelling, before the local administration. No I am not going to write on this once again; otherwise my post will become a mere translation of my previous story. In fact, I will start my post from Dugadda, which one can find somewhat in the middle of one’s way to Lansdowne. The sweetness of the water was so immense, which we tasted on 31st of December, lured us to stop our car and taste it once again.
One of the discoveries of this trip was the finding of a fountain, (spring). It was slightly away from the main road, flowing with all its charm and raw beauty, which we did not find on our last trip. But once, when we found it, it was all ours. There was no one other to share the beauty of this magnificent raw, mighty and still unexplored flow of water. I am quite sure most of the visitors might be unable to recognize it as we too missed it in our last trip. Spending of one or two hours, on the mighty rocks or in the cool and clean water give us ample of energy and a cheerful refreshing for the next course of journey. The landscape around it was also very magnificent. Next destination was the Lansdowne itself, by passing the Garhwal Rifles Head-Quarter; soon we reached at Gandhi Udyaan, a small chowk in the heart of the Lansdowne, which is the lone market for the tourists and the surrounding area.
After passing the market area, we proceed towards DHURA Road for our final destination. This time the road looks more charming and challenging because of rain and the debris. Here the local people and the staffs of nearby resorts take charge of making the road fit enough for the transportation. Once you reach in “ Hill View Shanti Raj Resort ”, you feel relax and find yourself in a comfort zone, as the coziness and warm welcome by the Bisht brothers and the staff give you a home like realization. This resort does not provide you luxury of any kind, but this place really makes your visit purposeful and I am quite sure about it! Till the time you refresh yourself with a hot cup of ginger tea in an open environment, your rooms get ready. No tents were suitable for this mansoon time of the year and it could be dangerous to stay in the tents as lots of insects etc. roam freely on the ground. The ground reality of the area demands it, so we were amicable on this issue to keep the safety first and prefer rooms over the tents.
As I spent quite a few years of my early life in Dehradun, so I was aware of the fact that during the rainy season, the nature bestows its beauty at its best. The same was applicable here too. The trees were lush green; even the stems turn green because of continuous enormous amount of moisture in the environment. You will not be able to find a pinch of dust anywhere, the most exemplary thing which prevails is the green surrounding everywhere. Frequent visitors of hills, know the most amazing time is the evening when sun and clouds play hide and seek with each other and the entire nature along with all its components, including humans of-course, become the mute spectators and witness the colors, they bestow on this earth. Tyagi ji and I took numerous photos to catch the glimpses of these amazing scenes but every time we have to realize that neither we are capable enough to catch the real beauty nor our cameras are equipped enough to capture the entire beauty of this into it.
After the colorful evening, usually the night passes with mere silence, seems the Mother Nature prepares itself for the next opening of dawn. The morning brings all the charm and spell bound magic with astonishing peace and harmony, and one can easily connect oneself with it. This co-existence is commendable, just surrender yourself and let loose your inner self to float, float and float. Soon you get amazing experiences, when your inner self loses itself and lost for searching its own identity. This is a period of total transformation where you speak nothing just observe and merely observe the whole pious and pure environment, which give you the feeling of spirituality. A sense of fulfillment and contentment prevails over you and then nothing lefts after it. Suddenly it becomes all transparent… you, nature and a very clean and clear membrane like thing, along with your spirit, all this is difficult to understand. Many a times you drowned yourself in the vast ocean of nature, spreading without any leap and bounds in this resort. This is the indeed mesmerizing side of this resort, at any other place you will have to leave your comfort zone for experiencing it but here you find it so near, like at your own door step.
After breakfast, now it is the time for some real fun as now this resort is equipped with some really adventurous sports, as promised by Mr. Dinesh of the resort on our last visit. Thrilling and adventures Zip line was amazing, so were the Brahma Bridge, Monkey Crawl, Spider Web, Walk balance and many other activities. The most commendable fact attracts your attention that the management put all the activities keeping the important aspect of harmony with nature. Not a single activity looks an encroachment on the environment or damaging it. For the not so physically fit people like me there are soft sports materials like badminton, chess, playing cards or ludo etc. are available. It looks good when the management of a resort taking care of people for different tastes and providing them enough choices. Nevertheless my wife and son take full enjoy of all such wonderful activities, you can see the joy on their faces while trying various activities. Rain stops their expedition after some time and they are forced to halt these activities but instead of entering the comfort of four walls we prefer to sit and enjoy in a tent, meant for the staff and keeping resort’s additional goods.
Today’s evening was destined to pay a visit to nearby famous places of Lansdowne like St. Mary and St. john’s church, Tip n Top , Bhulla lake, Garhwal Rifles war museum etc. Boating was a memorable experience in the Bhulla Lake amidst of all the nature enveloping the area..
Nights usually calm in this resort unless the ghummakars like us not landed, so again it was a free bonfire (camp-fire) night, along with the music system for all the guests of the resort, and the most amazing part of roasting of corns and potatoes, after dimming of fire by all the guest themselves, which Tyagi ji bought from the market of Nazibabad while we were passing that vicinity. It was really an amazing experience as some guests even confessed they are eating these Bhuttaas and roasted potatoes after years, and for some it was quite an experience to roast these on low fire with their own hands. We also bought some freshly guavas too from the same market and the youngsters loved to add them with their cocktails. We strongly feel such small gestures not only give you immense pleasure and satisfaction but also bring a strong bond of togetherness among all the visitors and staff of the place, and here you can feel a sense of homily environment in the whole resort.
These fun filled activities were not the end, as still lot more surprises are on our way, as Dinesh told us about a call, he received from a group of people who were on their way to Lansdowne but the problem is, there was no room vacant and at this point of time installing of tent was also not possible. Now it was a tricky situation for Dinesh and his team to encounter this and unfortunately we could not offer any help on this matter. So we say them to good night and retired to our rooms.
Next day, in the early hours of the day, I spotted a white TATA Safari in the parking lot and rightly judged that the guests had arrived in the wee hours of the night. I found Tyagi ji was sitting beside them; soon I discovered this group, hails from Manesar (Gurgaon), of hardcore Ghummakars wandering for the past several days on different locations. Earlier in the day, they were in Agra, there they decided to go to Dehradun and in the midway, they changed their plan for a day and finally landed themselves Lansdowne. They had prior acquaintance to Tyagi ji and on one fine day, he casually talked about the place and the resort and shared my experiences with them, so now they were here! Great men, indeed having deep pockets and ample of leisure time! But the guys were ultimate, they took dinner at Kotdwar, as it was getting late, reached the resort around 12 O’ clock, as there was no space available, they just managed with some mattresses and blankets on the floor of the office area itself! Really down to earth…. Totally admired!!!
Within hours they become friends to everybody, from guests to the staff of the resort. From Agra, they brought many packets of various kinds of ‘Petha”, and within minutes the whole resort enjoyed it, in the early hours of the day, when no one even washed their faces literally , all were enjoying hot tea with pieces of Petha. After last night’s roasted bhuttas this one was also a sweet surprise for all the guests. How this is possible? Where on this earth it happens? The guests themselves bring eatables and that too not for themselves but for the whole resort! Amazing experience but surely not surprising for us, as we already knew, yhan hotel jaisa kuch nhi sb bilkul ghar jaisa hi hai . Anyway after the breakfast, it was decided to vist ‘Leopard’s caves’ , which were near to this resort, and I wonder, if the visitors of Lansdowne know about this place!. Although we could not able to spot any leopard or even the shadow of it but the path was charming. Rough road, unexplored area beautiful landscape and ideal for the nature loving photographers. It was just trekking like expedition for all of us and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Now ours was the group of around 15 people including male, female and children, I wonder, if somehow we encountered any leopard on our way, it must have been frightened from us! Till lunch we returned to the resort. Now one room was vacant so the Manesar gang was shifted in the room. They had all the necessary stuff required for the enjoyment so we, along with some guests become frequent visitors to their room. It was a rainy season, and today nature was in some different mood, it was pouring after regular intervals, which makes impossible for us to either visit outside or even plan for a bonfire in the night. So the whole day and night was spent in the resort itself, but we enjoyed a lot in the rain. Playing cards with them also a fun in itself!
Next morning, the gang had to proceed for Dehradun, so they left early. Soon it was our turn to start packing for our destination. Around 12 O’ clock we bid our fare-well to the resort and its staff although, it was further temptation from Dinesh, when he shared his plan about constructing some Swiss cottages, about one Km away from this resort, deep inside the jungle for the city people to get salvation! The cottages will be meant for those people who intend to stress out their city life for a few days, and get the experience of meditation and nirvana!… no sign of external world, no television, no internet, no mobile, only relaxation and one yoga instructor to help in meditation, even food will be served directly from Dinesh’s village….. Just you and nature or can we say nature and you?…Indeed great temptation!!!
On our way back towards home, we encountered with mysterious weather, dense rain at some places and just drizzle at 100 meters away. Sometimes fog and mist make your life difficult, especially when you are driving. There are places where it spreads so dense that you have to stop your car for a while to take a look on the exact location of the road but after few meters on your way, you will find it all clear! Debris of landslides were here and there but on the whole, road was clean and we were intended not to stop before Meerut for eating out. I will not going to say that this was the completion of our journey to Lansdowne, instead it was our one more trip to Lansdowne, as we have of firm believe that this place is not going to stop us so early…..
We have been to Lansdowne , there are so many post on same including mine but this is totally a different one !
Good Job !
Hi Mahesh ji
Thanx for your appreciation, which i am getting right through my beginning on ghumakkar.
It means a lot. Thanx again.
Nice different take on Lansdowne, Avatar ji.
Hi Venkatt
Thank you very much.
If you get different experience at a place, then it reflects it in your writing too.
Thanx for the comment.
Dear Avtar ji
I Read your brief story about your visit at Lansdowne , really nice one and heart touching real story of a real Ghumakkar ,Beside this I like the adventures activities in resort , and I am alsoplanning to go there with my corporate fellows very soon.
Here I would like to appraise you that Not only You are writing your real thoughts but giving the awareness to other Ghumakkars also to find out the real unexplored and beautiful cool and calm places …lke Lansdowne ( Uttrakhand).
Thanks for nice contribution to society .
Parmender
Hi Parmender Ji
Many thanx for your nice words.
I do hope, if you are planning a corporate tour, then must opt for weak days, so you will get less congestion in Lansdowne and even get good competitive rates in hotels too, which will help you and your friends to invest on other adventures and more gumakkari.
All the best for your future trip.
Lansdowne is quite different with your eyes, a very peaceful place in the lap of nature worth visit. A naughty ghumakkar has started planning.That guest house looks to be a nice place to stay and look forward to see the owner Mr. Dinesh.
Hi ashok ji
Many thanx for your kind words.
Its always been heartening to get your encouraging words on my every post, which really boost the moral of the writer. Wosh you all the best for all your future endeavors.
Opps…. Sorry ashok ji, Read Wish instead of Wosh…… typing mistake :)
Hi!
A lovely travelogue and interesting place that you stayed at. Must keep it in mind for when we manage another trip there :-)
It’s amazing how the same place can be so different for different people and at different times… I guess that’s why we travel again and again and again!!! Keep writing in about such gems tucked away in these out-of-the-way places…
Hi Naturebuff
Thanx for the extremely nice comment. You are truly right by saying that we find different things and different experiences about the same place. During my first two visits of the place i did not know anything about the birdings in that area, after reading your post on it, this time i specially wemt to St. Mary’s churh and there i met with an army officer, who showed me a booklet based on the birds found in the area. He even made us saw some birds on the trees, which was amazing. We even saw Trishul peak from there, i have a great click of that, which i love to share with thr fellow gumakkars in my some other post. Thanx to you too for make us aware about amazing birds.
Beautiful post and thank you for sharing your side of the story.
I just wish such places remain like this for many more years for our next generations too…we all must thank Gorkha Regiment for this.
The resort seems a very good option for a break…you just need a long walk in the nature…and no one is there to disturb your thoughts.
Hi Amitava
Many thanx for your comment.
Yes, you are quite right by saying that some places must keep for unadulterated for future generations, otherwise most of the places have already reached on the verge of loosing its relevance.
Very well written travelogue Avtar ji.
I am from Najibabad, city to which Kotdwar is next. I have been in Landowne 3 or 4 times.
Very calm and beautiful hill station, but has started to be over-crowded, as it is becoming famous.
Well Zip drive there, new to me…I will try on my next visit.
Thanks for sharing Keep writing.
Hi Vinay
I know you are from Nazibabad and very active on Ghumakkar. I read your post on Lansdowne, which was amazing and inspired me to write on it. All your posts are great including the latest one, which I could not find time to read yet, but the begining looks impressive
Soon I will write a comprehensive review of Shanti Raj, which i hope will be useful for the ghumakkars and the place as well. Thanx again.
Dear Mr. Singh , Lansdowne though closest to Delhi, still doesn’t see a lot of tourists. I have visited this place twice and liked it tremendously. Being a contt. town, it is clean, well organised and if one manages to find a good place to stay (at least few years back, it was hard to find a place since there were always very few) then it is a bliss, as in your case. I am not sure whether you had a chance to visit the war cemetery (it is at least 30-40 minutes quiet and brisk walk from the main town) but when we visited, it was almost like being in Warsaw reading those epitabhs. That was 12 years back.
I do not know about Leopard’s cave. It may be a urban legend since usually Leopard doesn’t hide much in caves, they are more confident (and comfortable) atop trees.
But all said, Lansdowne still gets a fraction of what Mussorrie or Shimla attracts, I do not know why. I sincerely hope that log like these makes it more accessible. Also please share the tarrif structure, as you find appropriate, of the resort so that people can plan accordingly.
Hi Nandan
Thank you very much for writing your views.
Why Lansdowne is lagging behind as compared to other tourists destinations is not a mystery. If you opt for Mussoorie, for instance, you can also visit Haridwar, Rishikesh, Dehradun , Shestrdhara and many other tourists friendly and religious places, which gives an average tourists a much needed edge as his many purposes can be solved with a single trip of 3 to 4 days. But if you opt for Lansdowne, then you have to restrict yourself for the only one place.
I had the same question, which you put forwarded, this forced me to think as our aam aadmi’s shoe and so got the answer…. lol
Hi Nandan
Sorry to forget mentioning other points.
Yes I visited War memorial, but the officer forbade us for taking pics, so i did not mention about it intentionally and thought if by chance on my any other trip to this place I get a chance to click, then I will provide information on it.
You do not know about Leopard’s cave and may be about Bheem Pakora( which is associated with the bheema of Mahabharta era!) do not surprise me at all, as the road leads to these places is all ‘Katcha”, that is why 99% of the total visitors, landed in Lansdowne do not know about these places. We saw these places as they lie on the road leading to Shanti Raj Resort.
Leopard’s caves are neither myth nor legends, as leopards and other kind of wild beasts are frequent visitors in surrounding villages and the villagers are sure enough for their hidings in those areas, and we have no reasons what so ever for neglecting their claims, after all this gives a nice trekking in the slopes and unexplored jungles.
Around 10th of this month I will submit the review of this place, as had to gather some more information from the owners and I was busy writing on Jaipur etc. and my son’s exams are getting closer….. see lots of excuses!!!
Sorry! Avtarji, as usual I am late. It is not intentionally but incidently. I did see the caption in the margin Lansdowne: Salvation.. but escaped/overlooked having been understand as a topic with reference to your Brahmasmi. and thought I might have read it earlier. Today I go through and enjoyed it like anything. Simply excellent in vernacular language, extremely beautiful pics in bonus and adventures in the pics are in ex-gratia.
Really, your ghumakkari is not just outing, it is a theme.
@Nandan: Panditji, during the journey from Tarkeshwar to Lansdowne with Silent Sole group, Laxman was driving and a leopard appeared to cross the road and vanished in fraction of second. Later, we asked to the villager and they confirmed the presence of many leopards in that area.
Many thanx to Tridev ji for your encouraging words.
Somewhere I find myself fortunate enough for getting the blessings of great personalities and certainly you are on the top of them. Its nothing like flattering of words, instead it just emerging from the core of my heart.
Undoubtedly I was in a dilemma, whether I will get your blessing this time or not, as I read one of your comment in some other post that you usually avoid commenting on English posts.
So I feel blessed myself for your words…. I read the post of SS on Tarkeshwar, but did not know that you are the ‘Awasthi” which he mentioned in his post!!!
So You are Awasthi… means Kayasth…. and most probably from U,P. All things are pointing towards a great affinity!!!! Thanx again.
Dear Avtarji, I used to comment on the articles of English authors on Ghumakkar, but the act of no reply can be ignored of those, who are not in habit to acknowledge the readers comments. If you are commenting on ones ghumakkari, whether its in English or in Hindi and giving reply only to the English comments, this is discrimination (please do read my comments on Kasoli of Snig). Once Abhiruchee K also said that it was not so.
Second thing : Avtarji, I am not a Kaystha, I am Brahmin from Hoshiyar Pur, Do-Aaba (Punjab), Agnesh, Angeerish & Avasthis belong to Punjab, Uttar Pradesh both whereas a good number of the Avasthi Brahim resides in Himachal Pradesh also.
If someone doesnt reply/acknowledge my comments many times, I stop reading/commenting on that author’s posts. If a reader has read the article and given his opinion, it must be acknowledged.
Hope Mukesh and Ritesh are listening
Dear SS ji
I do agree if a writer expects comments for his post which help him to check the acceptance for his efforts, at the same time the reader too deserves the acknowledgement for his comment from the writer. Undoubtedly its a two way process and some times the other readers and followers of the post can get some extra information which the post itself is not offering.
I duly echo your views on this.
Dear Tridev ji
Its been fruitful to ignite you, atleast I could get good piece of knowledge from your vast ocean of brilliance.
Yes you are quite right when saying that critic must get the acknowledgement for their comment. Like a writer needs a reader’s comment for his/her moral boosting the viewer too needs the same. Undoubtedly such relations are reciprocal.
But sir do not take it seriously, I commented the same post in English but me too have not gotta reply from the writer, so you are not alone, I am standing just with you……LOL
Also many thanx for the ‘Avasthi” part. This knowledge is something great for me…. As I have a freind with ‘Parashar” surname and he too has his roots in Punjab and related himself to the ancestors of saint(Hrishi) ‘Parashar’
Thanx for sharing this wonderful piece of Gyan!!!
@ Avtar, @ Tridev – I never meant that Leopards are not there, I was rather commenting on the ‘cave’ part. Infact Leopards are quite in abundance in UK hills (both sides).
Dear Nandan
cave part is not wrong, undoubtedly leopards have the ability to mount on trees but you see, in that part only trees of pine are there, which are very straight unlike the other trees. Pine trees also have some spines and these trees usually go straight up to some 20- 30 meters. Apart from this these trees do not have denser leaves which may provide them some shelter or disguise etc.
Here we do not have the option to upload a photo in comment box like in fb otherwise I have a very clear pic of a slit between the rocks which might be found suitable enough for their natural habitat.
Here I like to add one more point, they may stay on trees for a while but being a mammal they need dens or caves for giving birth to their young ones!!!
Many times I have planned to go lansdowne but still I am unfortunate. Last week we thought for lansdowne but finally went to Nainital though it was the our 6th trip of Nainital.
Hope the resort owner will give some extra discount for Ghumakkar family as it is now famous among all the ghumakkars.
Leopards are found everywhere in Uttranchal but I have never seen it there.
Photographs are superb and description as usual brilliant.
Keep sharing your experience.
Dear Saurab
Thanx for your nice words.
I wish soon you will visit the place and write your experiences on it,
Yeah, I do think the resort owner must owe to the Ghumakkar.com for spreading the name of their place and need to offer a heavy discount for all the members of this group.
Thanx for your encouragement.
Hi Avtarji,
Looks like salvation awaits me here at Lansdowne.
I am seriously thinking of visiting once the current disturbances ease off.
Lovely account as always.
Hi Nirdesh ji
Its always been nice to listen from you. Many thanx for liking the post. Good to hear, you like to visit there, all the best. Hope to get very rosy and pink weather in the coming months.
Dear Mr. Singh,
Will you please let me know the exact location of the stream that you found?
I am planning to visit Lansdowne next week.
Dear Nikhil ji
Sorry for responding late due to engage in some other work and could not get enough time to peep here.
Lansdowne is a small place and you can easily find Shantiraj resort. Anyway I am forwarding the link to their website.
http://www.shantirajlansdowne.in/
Hope this will help you.
Dear Mr Singh
Thanks for sharing such detailed info about your trip.
I am planning to visit lansdowne with my family this weekend.Could you elaborate more on the way to the stream you mentioned in your post.
Regards’
‘
Sumit