Getaway to Phuentsholing, Bhutan and Jaldapara National Park (WB)

During last week of Octoeber 2015, my work took me to Phuentsholing, Bhutan. Being a Ghumakkar, I worked out the possibility of making a fine balance between profession and passion.

Phuentsholing, with an altitude of apprx. 300 metre, is a small town in Bhutan, placed on the border touching India. On the Indian side, Jaigaon is the last town. After crossing the gate, you will find Phuentsholing to welcome you to Bhutan. For visiting Bhutan, you do not need any visa. Your Indian passport or voter card will serve the purpose. It is a thriving commercial centre, situated directly at the base of Himalayan foothills. It is a fascinating place where different ethnic groups mingle prominently Indian, Bhutanese and Nepalese. Being the border town, Phuentsholing serves as the convenient entry/exit point for Bhutan and also the important link to West Bengal, Sikkim and Assam.

The journey to Bhutan
Due to the last minute requisition, we had to catch Kanchankanya express (13149) from Sealdah station on 25th October 2015 at 8.30 pm. Those who have travelled from New Jalpaiguri (NJP) to Assam are conversant with the main line. But this train takes a different route from NJP station in the morning, which goes through deep forest of North Bengal. We reached Hasimara at 10.25 am on 26th October. Tiku, a young man known to me and working with us for the last two decades, was there to receive us. From the station we went straight to Madarihat Gate of Jaldapara National Park for enquiring about booking of jungle safari. As we could not find any booking for that day, we decided to approach the next day. So we moved on to Phuentsholing, Bhutan. We checked in at Hotel Druk, where we had a comfortable stay and delicious food.

Gate at Phuentsholing

Welcome to Bhutan. Gate at Phuentsholing

Indo-Bhutan Border

This is the border between India and Bhutan

Hotel Druk at Phuentsholing

Hotel Druk at Phuentsholing

In the post lunch session we visited the town and the outskirts. Phuentsholing being a small town, we covered it fast and went to the valley of Torsa river. We roamed here and there over river pebbles and spent tranquil time upto dusk. We made up a short plan about the following day’s visit to Jaldapara.

River bed of river Torsha

River bed of river Torsha

 View of River Torsha

View of River Torsha from a highrise of Phuentsholing

Jaldapara is well connected by road. Madarihat town is the entry point of Jaldapara National Park . It is located 140 kms from Siliguri town – the gateway to North East India, Nepal (from the eastrn side) and Bhutan. Apart from the closest Hasimara rail station, New Jalpaiguri ( NJP) and Alipurduar are the major railway stations to reach Jaldapara National Park. The distance between NJP railway staion and Jaldapara National Park is 145 kms and Alipurduar to Jaldapara National Park around 60 kms. If anyone comes by flight, then Bagdogra airport is there, which is apprx. 15 km from Siliguri.

Jaldapara National Park was formerly known as the Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary. It was declared a sanctuary in 1941 for protection of flora and fauna and was declared as a national park in May 2012. Jaldapara National Park is located in the flood plains of river Torsha. It lies at Madarihat Block in Jalpaiguri district. The total area is nearly roughly 216 square km. The Malangi River flows nearby from east to west, also accompanied by rivers Malangi, Hollong, Chirakhawa, Kalijhora, Sissamara, Bhaluka and Buri Torsa. Apart from Kaziranga and Pobitara in Assam, Jaldapara in West Bengal is also the safe home for this famous single horned rhino since long. This park holds the maximum number of rhinos population in India after Kaziranga, where other wild life like Royal Bengal Tiger, Asiatic elephant, deer, sambhar, barking deer, spotted deer and hog deer, wild pig and bison are also available. Besides, Jaldapara is a paradise for bird watchers.

Next day, on 27th October we finished some official work in the first half and reached again the booking counter adjacent to the Jaldapara tourist lodge. There was a statue of a rhino for attraction of tourists. Every day, this national park operates 4 Gypsy trips and 2 elephant trips. For availing the elephant trip, it will be convenient to stay in the tourist lodge, as the trips start very early in the morning. Timings for Gypsy trips are rather comfortable : 5.30 am, 7.30 am, 1.30 pm and 3.30 pm. For each trip 10 vehicles are available. Apart from the driver, you need to take a Govt provided guide with the Gypsy. Maximum 6 visitors are allowed to seat in the open hood vehicle. The rates go like this : Rs.60 per head for the visitors + Rs.250 for vehicle entry fee + Rs.800 for the Gypsy hire + Rs.230 for the guide. We reached exactly at 1.30 pm at the counter. Luckily, we got the last Gypsy. Filing up the form, making payment and getting money receipt took 10 minutes. So by 1.45 pm, we were out with the last Gypsy.

Statue of a rhino near Jaldapara booking office

Statue of a rhino near Jaldapara booking office

Jaldapara National Park

Entrance of Jaldapara National Park

Another view of the entrance

Another view of the entrance

From the booking counter one has to come back to highway then go to the entrance of the national park, where the jungle safari actually starts. At the gate there is a small office, where a lot of information of the leader of the visitors (like your name, address, mobile number, number of visitors, etc.) are manually recorded by the staff in a thick register (what we used to do 15 years ago in offices), which leader has to sign. Then the vehicles are allowed to get into the park. There were two thick pillars on both side of the road. A statue of a rhino was placed at the top of each pillar. But before that, tourists will notice a big statue of a rhino which was there at the centre of the road entering the forest.

Once the formalities were over, our safari started through the dense forest. The road was natural (not asphalted). On the right side, along the boundary of the forest, we noticed un-insulated metal wire fencing fixed with low height pillars. We learnt that live electricity is charged in that wire fencing after 6 pm, so that any person who intends to cross the boundary will get electrocuted. This arrangement is made to protect wildlife from illegal entrants.

Before the start of journey, our guide advised us not to talk aloud. Because, any kind of loud sound may compel the wildlife to keep away from the visitors. We first reached the area called Holong. There were a two storied tourist bungalow, a small park and a flowing river, which made the place attractive for human beings, as well as for wildlife. Plenty of peacocks were roaming here and there. We reached the river bank. A rhino was gazing on the opposite side of the river. We were surprised that at the very first point of the safari, we saw a wildlife. Many tourists gathered to see the animal. Gradually peacocks and monkeys started to come out of the jungle and walked along the rhino. We spent apprx. 10 pleasing minutes over there, took many snaps and went back to the Gypsy for moving towards further deep into the forest.

I am the king here : A rhino gazing at Holong

I am the king here : A rhino gazing at Holong

Making the world more colourful : Peacocks came out of the forest

Making the world more colourful : Peacocks came out of the forest

Place to stay in tranquility : Tourist bungalow at Holong

Place to stay in tranquility : Tourist bungalow at Holong

On way, we crossed a few weak wooden pools made over small rivers. The second point of stopover was Harindanga. There was a 4 storey watchtower in the middle of a very vast field. The field was full of grass and other plants, as tall as a human being. No wildlife was visible there. But the area was full of fresh oxygen as the air smelled pure and wild. We bathed in silky sun and proceeded further.

Crossing a rivulet

Crossing a rivulet

The Harindanga watchtower

The Harindanga watchtower

Next and last stop was Jaldapara. A 3 storey watchtower was there at this place. While we were watching the jungle from the 2nd storey, a trained elephant came with two mahouts. Our guide told that the elephant was famous for being naughty. It stopped, say 30 metre away from the watchtower and lied down on the ground to help both of the mahouts to get down. Then it went to an area full of vegetation. An over enthusiastic lady tried to get closer for a photoshoot, but immediately guides and Gypsy drivers available there restrained her. It is difficult to gauge mood of an elephant even by the local people. It takes no time for an undomesticated elephant to get angry. So we watched the animal from safe distance for some time and then we started the return journey. It was already 3 pm and the sun started to become soft.

The naughty elephant

The naughty elephant

The beauty and the beast. Not a safe combination in a forest.

The beauty and the beast. Not a safe combination in a forest.

A cut from eternal flow of time : A group photo beside Jaldapara watchtower. From left Rajib, me, Yogendra, Tiku, Abhishek and our guide Bindu Barman

A cut from eternal flow of time : A group photo beside Jaldapara watchtower. From left Rajib, me, Yogendra, Tiku, Abhishek and our guide Bindu Barman

Another group photo. From left Tiku, Rajib, me, and Yogendra

Another group photo. From left Tiku, Rajib, me, and Yogendra

While returning, we noticed that a wild cock was roaming in the jungle nearer to our slowly moving vehicle. On being pointed out by our guide, we saw an eagle sitting in a Simul tree. We were standing on the open hood Gypsy. That way we had a vivid view of the forest. Continuous jerking of the vehicle, because of the natural uneven road, posed a strong challenge for photography. Still I tried my best to snap whatever object attracted me. Varities of trees and plants were there in abundant numbers, which our guide was describing in low but clear voice. We saw another trained elephant while coming back. The mahout was standing on its back. He even gave pose for a photoshoot. Then we returned to the booking counter, as the safari finished.

The balancing act : An elephant with its mahout standing on its back

The balancing act : An elephant with its mahout standing on its back

An eagle sitting on a tree branch

An eagle sitting on a tree branch

The natural way through forest

The natural way through forest

The Jaldapara tourist lodge

The Jaldapara tourist lodge

We were in happy mood all along, as we did not expect to get the last minute safari trip. While coming back to Phuentsholing, we stopped by a tea garden. It was Satali Tea Estate. The lush green beauty and the carpet like look of the garden evoked my old memory. I had been in Tinsukia, Assam for 7 years during my early career, where I visited tea factories also. Here at Satali, we took a group photo with the help of a garden employee. The air of every tea garden is so pure that you can cleanse your lungs with fresh oxygen. Everything was going on fine. We had some tea and local snacks on the return journey and we reached Phuentsholing by 5 o’ clock.

Race with the running train. National highway and railway line go side by side towards Assam.

Race with the running train. National highway and railway line go side by side towards Assam.

The Satali Tea Estate

The Satali Tea Estate

Suddenly, I remembered that somebody told me earlier about a crocodile park in Phuentsholing. We reached the park fast. But by then, it already became dark. It was last week of October and Bhutan is placed on the Eastern side, so darkness came fast, though it was only quarter past 5. The park was established in 1976. It is under control of ministry of agriculture and forest, Govt of Bhutan. The authority of the park kindly allowed us to get into, as all the visitors already departed. It was a small park, not a specious one, without illumination facility. So we put on flash lights of our mobile cameras. There were ponds around, encircled by high and strong wire mesh fencing. Crocodiles and Gharials were there in considerable quantities. They were preparing for a sleep. A supervisor was there, who guided ourselves to a glass covered box, where some eggs were kept for display. We were told that those were eggs of crocodile, but got spoilt. They kept those eggs for sometime for display purpose. It is the rule of nature that all the eggs do not yield result everytime. Our journey for the day was over. It was a satisfying day after all. We returned to Hotel Druk.

A crocodile inside the crocodile park at Phuentsholing

A crocodile inside the crocodile park at Phuentsholing

A gharial in a separate pond

A gharial in a separate pond

At the dinner, we opted to have Bhutanese dish. So we ordered rice, Ema Datse and Bhutanese chicken. Ema Datse was unique. It was a combination of cheese and chilli in white gravy. I liked it, as it was simple and I was having it for the first time. Bhutanese chicken was also light in taste. After the hectic day, simple dishes helped us to regain energy fast.

Ema Datse : A delicious Bhutanese dish

Ema Datse : A delicious Bhutanese dish

Next day morning, on 28th October we checked out of the hotel at 8.30 am after the pleasant stay. We bid goodbye to our friends and proceeded towards Siliguri, particularly NJP station. Leaving behind Phuentsholing, Jaigaon, Madarihat, Jaldapara, we moved along the national highway. On way, we crossed a lot of local rivers, as we know that North Bengal has plenty of rivers, coming from the Himalayas, heading towards Bangladesh. At 10.45 am we crossed the bridge over river Teesta. The rail bridge was parallel to the road bridge. Rate of Innova hire from Phuentsholing to Siliguri town / NJP station is aprx. Rs.3500/-. We safely reached NJP station at 12 noon and conveniently caught NJP Howrah AC express (22310) at 12.35 noon, which reached us Howrah safely on 10.50 pm.

Bridge over the river Teesta

Bridge over the river Teesta

Some useful information:

  • Hotel Druk, Phuentsholing, Phone no. 975-5-252426, /27, /28, 77190042, /43, /44. FAX No. 975-5-252929.
  • Innova owner at Jaigaon : Mr.Harish, 09593964677
  • Jaldapara Tourist Lodge, PO Madarihat, Dist Jalpaiguri, PIN-735220. Online booking link : http://www.wbtourism.gov.in/guest/lodges?lodgeId===AUVZ0VWtGZXJFbaNVTWJVU
  • Forest guide at Jaldapara: Mr.Bindu Barman, 08927999463.
  • Details of trains touching New Jalpaiguri (NJP) or Hasimara (HAS) are available at Indian Railways website. Similarly details of flights to and from Bagdogra airport are available in websites of Yatra, Make my trip, Travelguru, Ease my trip, etc. and websites of several flight operators.

17 Comments

  • Uday Baxi says:

    Dear Santanu

    A very good and informative post. You have captured almost every minutes detail in this post. It will be helping many who desire to visit Jaldapara and Phuentsholing.
    Thanks.

    Regards

    • SANTANU says:

      Dear Uday,
      Thanks for your everflowing support. I am happy to share my personal experience with you all. I wish you have a nice time while making a visit to several national parks and sanctuaries of North Bengal.
      Santanu

  • Niraj says:

    Very informative..Very detailed…

  • Anindya Chatterjee says:

    Excellent read…very informative. Am enchanted by the description of the safari at Jaldapara…it seems worth a visit.

  • SANTANU says:

    Dear Anindya,
    Thank you for your enthusiasm and nice comments
    Regards
    Santanu

  • BIKASH JAISWAL says:

    Dear Santanu,

    Your article is a good read.
    I had an association with North Bengal, the Terai Region, as it is also referred to, for more than two years between 2004 & 2006. I live in Kolkata, but we had some work arrangement with the North-East Frontier Railways and in that connection, I had to be in North Bengal for almost 20 days in a month. During that time, I had travelled the entire Stretch from NJP/Siliguri upto Alipur Duar and Cooch Behar. I sometimes also used to go to Guwahati, as The N-F Railways has its Head Quarter in Maligaon, which is in Guwahati. Every time anyone talks about North Bengal, immediately the memories becomes very fresh and for me its Nostalgia. I simply love North Bengal, because of its Beauty, Non Polluted atmosphere, its Tea Gardens and most importantly its people. The people of North Bengal are very Nice. A little laid back, maybe, but very polite, and always helpfull. As you cross Siliguri and move on Sevoke Road, there are lots of Military Camps on both sides of the road and the View is breathtaking. just after crossing Sevoke, moving a little ahead on the left is the famous Coronation Bridge which takes you towards Odlabari, Dam Dim, Mall Bazar Road and further. The view from and near the Coronation Bridge is simply breath taking. The towns on that stretch of road upto Alipuduar are all sleepy but all are Beautiful. There are several Wild Life Sanctuaries on that stretch and where ever you turn your head, the view is serene and beautiful. On this road there are in-numerable number of rivers, small and big and most of them are seasonal, but nevertheeless, they always look beautiful and mesmerising. The entire Terai Region of North Bengal is a Great Place for travelling and adventure.

    • SANTANU says:

      Dear Bikash,
      It has been nice to read your comment all along. I was in upper Assam for as good as 7 years. Climatic and atmospheric condition of that area matches with that of North Bengal. The purity of air of those places is incomparable. Any way, I would like to thank you for your detailed view and kind gesture.
      Santanu

  • Sumeet says:

    Santanu, very nice post, i wish i make a visit to Jaldhapara soon sometime. How good are the guides in terms of birding?

  • SANTANU says:

    Dear Sumeet,
    The guide provided to us was for jungle safari only. Since, you are looking for guides proficient in searching of birds for bird watching purpose, you can contact WB Tourism office available there, or you can mail them thru’ their official website. I have provided mobile number of the guide accompanied us. You can talk to him also, if he can be of any help to you.
    Regards
    Santanu

  • Jitendra says:

    Dear Santanu da,
    It was lovely to read through your pictorial description of your trip. It makes the place come alive for the reader.
    Also, the detailed information about rates, lodgings, food-choice is really helpful.
    And it was great to see my old friend Tiku!!!!
    Regards,
    Jitendra

  • SANTANU says:

    Dear Jitendra,

    I know how it feels to meet a person (whether face to face or thru’ multimedia) after long long time. Tiku remained the same guy, what we used to see him 10-15 years ago. Being a good manager, he has been very helpful during our tour. So far my article is concerned, I try to write in such a manner, so as to enable the reader to make a virtual tour. Had I been in his/her place, I would have liked to read it in that way. That’s my logic. Incorporation of rates, tariff, contact numbers etc. only makes the travelogue more meaningful and realistic. There was a movie photographer in our family two generations ago. So I got a bit of that thing hereditary. Hope you have enjoyed my 9 travelogues posted in Ghumakkar earlier.

    Take care and keep well dear. I do hope to make a trip with you sometime in future.

    Santanu da

  • Archana Ravichander says:

    Thank you Shantanu for the elaborate post.
    The drive through the dense forests must have been a hair-raising experience. Bhutan and India have similar geography, cuisine and culture. However, even subtle differences in any of these is a welcome for us ghumakkars.
    Safari and the scenery are my favorites in this post. Great work!

    Best.

  • SANTANU says:

    Thanks Archana for your analysing comment and support.
    Regards
    Santanu

  • Nandan Jha says:

    And when we know that the story is ending, pops out another place. A very comprehensive, paisa-vasool (in a Mumbai language) post. At Ghumakkar, we call them as FOG (First on Ghumakkar) so congratulations Santanu.

    One interesting thing about this log is that this place is easily accessible to those who are going to Gangtok/Darjeeling for about a week or so. If they can find two days then they can very well cover another country as well.

    I was very impressed by those well-made structures, even inside a Wildlife park.

    Thank you Santanu for sharing this with us.

    • SANTANU says:

      Dear Nandan,
      It is always nice to to have your comment and view point. I agree with you that tourists visiting North Bengal or Sikkim can also make a trip to Phuentsholing. And thanks for your appreciation which always motivates an author to go on writing.
      Regards
      Santanu

  • Prasenjit Majumdar says:

    Excellent POST Sir. I was looking something like this. It will help me as well as some other who want to visit these places. Thank for sharing this.

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