It was April and temperature had risen to 42 degrees in Bandhavgarh. Traveling to Madhya Pradesh at this time meant burning ourselves in scorching sun. But this was the best time to spot “The Tiger” in the wild. The tiger lover in us overpowered our delicate personalities and we decided to visit Bandhavgarh Wild Life sanctuary to see the Royal cat in his natural habitat.
Bandhavgarh Wild Life Sanctuary, located near Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh, is one of the best habitats for Tigers in India. With 400 sq kms of sprawling forests settled at the backdrop of the famous Bandhavgarh hills & fort, the jungle boasts of having the highest tiger density in India. Also, the landscape is such that it is easy to spot tigers in the wild. This information was crucial because initially we were not sure which sanctuary was the best; Bandhavgarh or Kanha. But some research on Tripadvisor and other travel forums sorted our confusion and we choose Bandhavgarh.
Madhya Pradesh is alluring enough for travelers to club places like Bandhavgarh with excursions such as Khajuraho or Bhedaghat. Since we had been to Khajuraho, we decided to spend a day at Bhedaghat, which is only 14 km from Jabalpur railway station (one of the nearest stations to Bandhavgarh). Bhedadhat is famous for Dhuandhar waterfalls and marble rocks (river Narmada flowing in between the rocks). The song “Rat Ka Nasha” from movie Asoka (Kareena Kapoor and Shahrukh Khan) was shot here.
| Places | Distance (kms) |
| Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh | 237 |
| Jabalpur to Bandhavgarh | 167 |
| Bhedaghat to Bandhavgarh | 180 |
| Note: Nearest station to Bandhavgarh: Jabalpur, Katni, Satna, Umaria. (few trains go to Umaria, while trains to Jabalpur, Katni and Satna are ample) | |
On 02 April 2012, we began our trip and reached Jabalpur next morning after 17 hours of train journey. We took an Auto (Rs. 300) to reach Motel Marble Rocks in Bhedaghat. Sadly, the auto was too slow and instead of 20-30 minutes, it took 45 mins to reach hotel. It is advisable to take auto after careful scrutiny because the road to Bhedaghat is deserted and one can land in trouble if the auto breaks down in the middle. It would be better to take a taxi (Rs. 800-900).
Owned by MP Tourism, this is the best place to stay in Bhedaghat primarily because it is located right on top of a hill adjoining the river Narmada and the Marble Rocks. Moreover, all tourist places; Chunsath Yogini Temple, Dhuandhar Waterfalls and Boating Ghat on Narmada River are within walking distance from the hotel.
Dhuandhar Falls in the Background
The milky Dhuandhar Falls
Though, our room was very basic, we were happy as it was clean, had beautiful views of the river amidst the rocks, and was big enough to accommodate the three of us (Me, My husband -Navs & my childhood friend -Vaishali).
View from our Hotel
After a sumptuous breakfast, we walked to the Narmada Ghat for boating. It was almost 02:00 pm and the Sun was at its hottest self but the boat ride was soothing enough; the cool breeze from the river soaked up our sweat and comforted us with magnificent views of the marble rocks.
On the Boat Ride
It was amazing to see the rocks that were once under water, were now gleaming in sunshine, showing-off their beautiful scale-like textures and surface pores. Some of them actually looked like a piece of Cheese. While I was imagining this, a water snake made its way on the rocks, making the ride thrilling for all.
The Marble Rocks of Bhedhaghat
The boat ride lasted for an hour & was thrilling, beautiful, peaceful and hilarious; all at the same time. Hilarious, because our boat rider had prepared a narration about the rocks, the river and everything that could possibly be talked about, in a truly hilarious and poetic way. And that is true for all the boat riders available there. So, in case you are looking only for solitude on the boat ride, take a private boat (cost Rs.400) or else to enjoy the environs among locals and the witty narrations, get on a passenger boat, accommodating around 20 people (Rs. 20-30/person).
There are two kinds of boats available at Bhedaghat, a Motor boat and a row boat; for best experience, I would suggest a Row boat because of its slow pace that allows you to enjoy everything at leisure. One disadvantage though is that if the water is too deep and currents are rapid, the row boat may not take you till the Monkey point, where the river flows through a very narrow space between the rock; a sight worth visiting. This is what happened with us, but overall the ride was worthwhile.
Marble rocks jutting out of the River Narmada
Exhausted and hungry, we went back to our hotel and grabbed a light lunch and drank lime juice that hydrated us instantly (There are not great eating joints at the Ghat). Our next destination was Dhuandhar waterfalls, (3 kms from the hotel). Since, we were in no mood to walk; we took an auto till the waterfall. Ethically, vehicles are not allowed to the waterfall, but a VIP gate allows you to do that (costs: Rs.50 one way). The waterfall was beautiful and the gush had a calming effect. Once you see the waterfall, you would know why it is called Dhuandhar: Dhuan, meaning smoke, Dhar meaning cascade. The rushing water produces tiny water particles in the air, creating an appeal of smoke erupting from the cascades. We spent over an hour watching the falls, the fishes that jumped over and cooled our selves by dipping our feet in the lagoons surrounding the falls.
By the time we came back, it was dusk and we had snacks and tea in the open garden of the hotel, enjoying views of the river below. A sudden thunder splash comforted us and we looked forward to a comparatively cool morning.
View of the city from the temple complex
Next morning, we woke up by seven and paid visit to the Chaunsath Yogini temple that was 2 mins walking distance from our hotel. After climbing 108 stairs, we were happy to see the view around. The temple complex gives a panoramic view of the Bhedhaghat city, with Narmada traversing through its grounds. Unlike many temples, this one was very peaceful and less crowded.
The Beautiful Chaunsath Yogini Temple
Lord Shiva & Parvati on Nandi
This was Bhedaghat, but don’t go anywhere as the real story is yet to begin. My next post will take you through Bandhavgarh, its jungle and our encounter with the Big Cat!!!
Hi Aparna,
Very good writing, nice photos. Narmada looks so beautiful. Boat, Marble rocks all are amazing. Incredible India . Thanks a lot
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both write up and pictures are beautiful !
Keep writing.
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Aparna, Welcome to Ghumakkar. Nice and informative post. Will eagerly wait for the “Real Story” as i too am a lover of the big cat… I guess you might want to read my post on Ranthambore…
https://www.ghumakkar.com/2012/04/20/ranthambore/
wish you’d taken photos of the Yoginis
Welcome to the ghumakkar family, Aparna. It was a pleasure to read your post. The pics were great too.
I was, however, a tad disappointed that you did not write more and post more pictures of the famed Chausat Yogini temple. I read some time back that the idols of the 64 yoginis are masterpieces and that this ancient temple is not being properly cared for.
Looking forward eagerly to reading about your encounter with the tigers of Bandhavgarh.
Welcome aboard Aparna.
Thanks for sharing this beuatiful log. Never been to Jabalpur, drove to Bandhavgarh an year back from Delhi though.
Pls respond to comments as you find time and get yourself a profile pic by signing up at http://www.gravatar.com
I have been in Jabalpur for four years when i was posted there. Really Bhedhaghat is very nice place for excursion.
Hey Aparna!
I was waiting to read this post since long..Beautifully written with nice pictures! You completely refreshed my memories of the trip.
It was indeed a wonderful one, especially part 2- which I am waiting for on Ghumakkar :-)
And thanks to u for planning another wonderful trip..
And I am waiting for ur other travel logs as well..Let them travel out of your travel diaries, and keep them coming !!!
Welcome to ghumakkar with a wonderful post Aparna.
A very nice post with wonderful pictures and description. I have never known anything about this place .
A very beautiful place with abundance of natural environment makes me feel go there right now. Narmada river looks beautiful and marvelous . The view from your hotel was even better. And finally that Chaunsath Yogini temple gave spiritual flavor to your post.
Thanks for sharing this wonderful travelogue. Please take us to ur next quickly . Also please reply via comments.
Keep travelling and posting .
Nice to know about a place which I want to visit in near future. I have heard that there are boat rides in the moonlight also .Is it true ?
Welcome Aparna on Ghumakkar. I have gone once to Pachmarhi but skipped Jabalapur due to time constraint. But next time I will definately club the two. Thanks for sharing the beautiful post and pictures.
I have been to the Marble rocks more than once and every time I visited the place, it gave the same feeling of awe. I guess it is one of Jabalpur’s best kept secrets.
Thank you so much all of you for such wonderful appreciation. I have been trying to post my comment but some error comes up.
Thank you so much all of you for such wonderful appreciation. And I really feel welcomed here among all wonderful travelers.
BhatSaab, I will surely read your blog ; Narayan ji, I can understand your dissapointment. Actually I found the 64 idols image a little dissapointing and not very beautiful. A lot of them were damaged during Mughals reign. But in future, I will keep in mind to capture such details too :) And yes you are right, the temple is not much taken care of but still is very neat and peaceful. I have already posted my next story to editing..should be here in a day or two I guess…do check in for that..coz thats the real one…:) you will fall in love with the Tiger.
thanks Aparna, I realize most are damaged but seeing the vahanas with the Goddesses would be very interesting. I have all their names listed tho I haven’t been there. I’ll look forward to the tiger
VALEY..thank you for getting me to this site..it is so good to see so many travelers. Feel like am at home!!!
Manish: Yes it is true there are boat rides on full moon nights…that is a beautiful sight to watch..we were short of two days..
You have brought back memories of my Jabalpur – Bhedaghat – Dhuandhar visit of early 1980s. I had purchased a small marble statue for 3 rupees from a hut near Bhedaghat / Dhuandhar falls and I saw a price tag of Rs. 75/- in a showroom in Dehradun upon returning ! At that time, I was all alone, didn’t even have a camera with me but I distinctly remember the boat ride in Narmada and the majestic falls. Thank you for sharing. Please keep writing here.
Welcome aboard, Aparna ! A beautifully written post on a little-known destination. Valuable info. with regards to accommodation and boating fares. Beautiful photographs. Can’t wait for the next episode….
@Sushant: wow a statue for rs. 3..well even now they are selling it not for more than 20-30 rs..for the smaller ones..
Thanks Venkatt!!
beautifully narrated with good and required details.photos are quite good.
Thanks a ton for your kind words.!!
now I’ve been there! Fascinating temple and beautiful river. thanks for the photos.
Thanks a ton for the comment. I was really out of scene for few years. Now back to Ghumakkar!!!
Madhya Pradesh is one of the most favorite destinations to travel, home to some amazing architectural structures, breathtaking wildlife national parks, spiritual places, the cultural beauty that can attract anyone to visit the state once in life. BTW, a cool collection of destinations to explore in M.P.
Yes, Thank you!