It was mid June and the scorching heat of Delhi summers and the chaotic traffic jams while commuting to the office was taking its toll and I needed a break. I just wanted to go to a peaceful place and just relax for a few days without spending too much time on the roads. Deoria tal was the first place that came into my mind as I have already been there a couple of times and was aware of the scenic beauty and tranquility it has to offer. I packed my bag and set off to Anand Vihar but terminal on a Thursday night.
To my elation; while I was in the Delhi Metro on my way to Anand Vihar, I got a call from Vishal. I could not resist telling him that I was on my way to Deoria tal and then will trek towards Chopta and further towards Badrinath valley. He was angry that I did not inform him about this. Even though I wanted to be alone; Vishal would have been the best buddy in this journey as he too is a big time ghumakkar and loves nature photography, but I did not inform him because he was on leave for last five months due to his ankle fracture and was on his way to recovery. He asked me to wait for just one more day and he would surely like to come with me. My journey had already begun and it was unavoidable now. Vishal said he was fine now and was ready for the journey. He said he is defiantly coming and would follow me until we meet as he did not want to miss this opportunity after spending five months in bed. He asked me to be in regular touch with him on the phone. Anyways… I had already contacted Negi (a local from Sari village) at Deoria tal and told him that I was coming.
On the road – A view of Devprayag
On Friday early morning I reached Rishikesh and took the first bus to Rudrapriyag. I hate to travel by bus in the mountains but I had no choice at this time. I had tried the taxi stand where Tata sumo and Mahindra jeeps are sometimes available but there was a political rally in Rishikesh today and all the jeeps were booked. After changing my mode of transport several times I reached Sari village while it was still daylight. I wasted no time there and immediately started my 3 KM trek to the lake.
First sight of the lake
I had kept my mobile switched off during most of the road journey to save battery as there was no electricity at Deoria tal to charge the phone battery. The moment I switched on my phone I saw several messages from Vishal. The last one said that he had crossed Rishikesh and was on his way towards Srinagar. Since there is hardly any traffic movement at night in the mountains I knew he would have to stop somewhere on the way and would not be able to make to Deoria tal before tomorrow noon at the earliest.
I reached the lake at around 7 PM and the sun was just about to go down behind the mountains. I was disappointed with the view as it was smoky all over. The spectacular view of the snow-capped mountains had disappeared behind the smoke. The weather however was very pleasing. Negi told me that the summer this year had been brutal so far and there were many forest fires in this area and the visibility was poor due to the smoke arising from these fires. Negi introduced me to Mr Rawat who was the forest guard on duty at this time. I was received well as Negi was one of those five men on my first trip to this area when I had got lost a few years ago. Negi had narrated that story to the people there several times and I had become a known characterJ.
My home for next two days
View of the lake from inside my tent
I hired a tent from the small shop that was set up a few hundred meters away from the lake. Bhatt Ji; the owner of the shop also knew me as he was the one who had packed parathas for me last time. I had a simple yet delicious meal and wanted to crash in my sleeping bag as I was tired due to hectic road journey.
Rawat Ji and his colleague
Bhatt Ji’s kitchen
Negi and Me – Lets have a party
The next morning I woke up at around 6 AM. It was a beautiful morning but again the view around was disappointing due to smoky weather. My initial plan was to trek to Chopta today but since Vishal was on his way; I decided to hang around in the lake area. I took a walk around the lake and enjoyed the chirping of the birds and sounds made by the insects. After spending about two hours by the lake I went up to Bhatt Ji’s shop for a cup of tea.
Early morning walk around the lake
Hanging around with friends
I switched on my cell phone and called Vishal. He said he had crossed Rudrapriyag and was in a Press vehicle that was carrying newspapers to Ukhimath. Even thou there is no electricity at Deoria tal, Bhatt Ji had found an innovative way of charging his own cell phone. He used a solar panel to charge a 12 volts battery and when the 12 volt battery was charged he would use it to charge his cell phone battery. I could use the same to charge my cell phone as it had multi utility charging pins. Nice jugad.
Bhatt Ji’s solar charger
I spent the whole day at the lake and spent time just lying around in peacetime and by chatting with Rawat Ji and a few other people who were tourists. At around 4PM while I was enjoying the sun just outside my tent I heard Vishal yelling my name from a distance. After all he had made it. I was glad to see him. Has was wearing an air cast plaster on his left foot but he looked fine and was not limping. We spent the evening by hanging around the lake area. I was just hanging around and enjoying nature while Vishal was busy clicking pictures of everything he could. Late in the evening Negi came up to us with a pitcher of locally made liquor. He said the “English” was too expensive and he could not afford it so he made his own using fermented gur (jaggery). Vishal does not drink and I was skeptical. Negi assured that he had made it with his own hands and had been drinking this from a long time and it was safe. Just two drinks were enough to throw me to the edge of the cliff of my senses. I did not want to fell off the cliff so I decided to have dinner. Bhatt Ji had made egg curry at Vishals request and served it with fresh hot rotis and rice.
The next morning I woke up and walked straight up to Bhatt Ji’s shop for a cup of tea. A few minutes later Vishal was there too. My initial plan was to trek to Chopta and then further towards the Badrinath valley but I could figure out that Vishal will not be able to trek all the way so we needed a new plan. We decided to spend the day around the lake area by exploring the jungle around it and then move on to Ukhimath in the evening. We got a few parathas and achar packed and moved towards the path that leads towards Chopta. We kept walking for about two hours and reached on top of a mountain from where we could see the entire Sari village and the whole valley.
A view of Sari village from the top
Paratha and achar breakfast
On the edge
Vishal on the edge
I remembered this point as I had spent some time there in my last trip as well. The sun was bright yet there was strong cold breeze blowing. In front of us was deep gorge whereas behind us was thick dense forest. The location was beautiful. We had paratha and achar breakfast there. The combination of bright sun and cold breeze was making me sleepy so I just lied down for some time and fell asleep. After sometime Vishal woke me up and we headed back to Deoria tal. After paying our fees for camping in lake area we headed towards Sari to catch the bus or any vehicle that could take us to Ukhimath.
At Karanprayag on the way to Badrinath
A glacier on the way to badrinath
At Sari we met a jeep driver who was ready to take us to Ukhimath for Rs. 400/= which we agreed. After spending the night at Ukhimath we woke up early the next morning and the next destination was decided to be Badrinath. Again we traveled in bits and pieces by catching the first ride that could take us towards Joshimath.
At Joshimath bus stand
We reached Joshimath around 4PM and the Tata Sumo drivers at the bus stop were shouting to attract passengers. We boarded one of those and headed towards Badrinath. The sun had completely gone down by the time we reached Badrinath. We approached a few hotels for a room but all of them said they were full. We decided to attend the darshan first and then look for a hotel as the time for closing of darshan was fast approaching. We first took dips in the tapt kund which is a hot sulphur water pool and then joined the long queue for darshan. It was the peak time and we could hardly get a glimpse of the lord Badrinath’s idol established inside the temple.
At Badrinath
Vishal at tapt kund – No wonder people think he is a firangi
After darshan we again began our search for a hotel. We approached a few more hotels but they all had the same answer. I spoke to a hotel owner who was a young fellow in the local language and told him that we really needed a room just for the night and would check out early the next morning. I was surprised to hear what he said to me. He said that no hotel would offer us a room at this time because I had a foreigner with me. Vishal looked like a foreigner due to his attire and all his appearances. He said foreigners visiting this place are just tourists and have a tight budget and they haggle a lot about the amount being charged for the room, food etc. whereas the pilgrims who come here just for Badrinath darshan spend a lot more money on rooms, food, hot milk, juice etc. No wonder everyone was refusing us a room. He was more surprised than I initially was when he came to know that Vishal was very much an Indian who looked like a firangi.
Jai Badri Vishal
Considering that I was a pahari myself and Vishal was not a foreigner he agreed to give us a room. The room had two beds and an attached toilet/bathroom and looked clean enough to spend one night. It was dark and extremely cold outside and Vishal was having trouble walking so we ordered dinner in the room itself. There also was a mobile charging socket which was half hanging out of the wall but was in a working condition. We both took turns to charge our mobile phones as we did not know when we would get a chance to do so again.
First view of Badri parbat
A view of the Badrinath valley
The next morning I went up to the hotel owner and told him that we are going up to Mana village and would return in two to three hours and then check out as we did not wanted to carry our bagpackes all the way when we had to come back to Badrinath again. He agreed and kept our bagpacks in the reception area. Mana is just 3 KM from Badrinath and although there were several jeep walas who were taking passengers from Badrinath to Mana; we decided to walk as it was a straight road and Vishal would not have problem to that. I was surprised to see today’s Mana Village. There was not a single shop there when I last visited about 15 years ago. This village had completely changed and has become a victim of commercialization. I was also surprised to see a new road that was carved into the mountains and had a signboard saying that this 53 KM long road was the world’s highest motorable road.
Highest Motorable Road
I always thought that Khardung – La was the highest one. We inquired about the road from an army official who we met on the way and he told us that this road was not open to public and is used only by the army to reach the last Indian army posts along the China border. Any civilian who wishes to take an adventure trip on this road had to obtain a permit from the district magistrate in Joshimath as well as designated army officials present at Mana post.
Bheem Pul
At Bheem Pul
Duo after crossing Bheem Pul
Upon reaching Mana and standing atop Bheem pul I recalled my 15 year old memories when I had come here for the first time with two of my friends after visiting valley of flowers. Vishal too was amazed to see the water gushing out of the mountain and flowing with such ferocity under Bheem pul.
Water gushing out at Mana
Path leading towards Vasudhara falls (Mana village in the background)
15 years ago I was not able to make it to Vasudhara falls as we were too tired and had less time in our hands but this time although Vishal insisted that he could make but I did not want him to take stress. At Bheem pul we met a Naga baba named Barfani Das who was preparing for puja when we reached there. He had two rabbits with him who he called Radha and Krishna.
Naga Baba Barfani Das at Bheem Pul
Baba Barfani das
Radha and Krishna
We just walked a few kilometres further from Bheem pul up to a point from where we could get a glimpse of the remarkable waterfall. The view around us was spectacular but unfortunately we did not have much time to spend and we had to get back to our urban life back in Delhi.
Excellent narration Bhattsaab !!! but you were very fast. One post should have been fully for Deoria Taal and another for Badrinath… considering the beauty of both the places, they deserve to be given due space and lot of fotos. The foto “first view of Badri Parvat” is actually “Neekanth peak” .
The post is very good with gr8 fotos. tks
Thank you, SS Ji for reading and for your comments. I agree with you, I should have broken down this post into at least two parts. And thanks for correcting me.
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Thank you Pankaj bhai Deoria taal aur Badrinath hain hi itna sundar jagah ki jo ek baar jata hai uska man use baar baar kheench ke wahan le jata hai Darasal Vishal ke pair me chot ke kaaran hamara koi fix plan hi nahi tha jis jagah ki gadi pehle mil gai usi taraf chal diye
Nice comeback, Harish bhai, good to hear your tale after a long time! True ghumakkari always comes this way, you feel the itch and you just set out….Always get nostalgic on seeing such beauties, thanks for presenting it so nicely. Photos too are pretty interesting. But as SS Ji mentioned, you could have split it into parts and could have let the readers relish it further….
You are right, Road to Mana Pass is now the highest motorable road, but it’s still difficult to access due to a lot of bureaucratic formalities/permissions which are pretty difficult to obtain for a normal soul like us…it’s a dream to go till Mana Pass and view Deotaal (origin of River Saraswati)…May the permits get easier to obtain soon! I recently attended a seminar where a bunch of ghumakkars who walked on these wonderful trails presented it so beautifully…if you are interested check this out here…http://snowscapes.blogspot.in/2012/09/audens-trail-through-shivas-matted_28.html
Thanks for reviving wonderful memories of Deoria Taal and Badrinath Valley. Will give you a call sometime soon, Keep writing!
Thanks Vipin, I will check this link out. I have a few friends in the Indian Army and infact I am working on how to get there. Trekking to Deotaal and Kaakbhusandi lake is my long time dream. Give me call when you get a chance. We are planing Ranthambore again this May. I wish we will be able to spot the King this time ;-)
Very good description looks we going with you. Photos also very good. Thanks
Thank you for your kind words, Sharma Ji…
Wonderful post.
Camping at the Taal, spending some time with Nature to be with yourself and a friend to be at your side, one can’t ask for more to recharge.
It’s a dream for a many reading this post. Thank you for sharing
Thank you, Amitava bhai… I believe all ghumakkars think alike…i agree, it completely recharges you and relieves you from all kinds of stress and strain that the urban life gives us…
good post,some of the pics are quite beautiful.
Thank you, for your comments Ashok Ji..
Mind blowing post bhatt sab !!!!!!!
Thank you, Semwal Ji… If you are in Delhi, then lets meet up some time… you can email me your phone number at bhattsaab@gmail.com if you wish to..
The pleasure is mine. I will mail you my No.
Wow… Bhatt saheb,
Very well narrated and wonderful post but too fast.
really enjoyed it..
Thank you, Naresh Ji… Your current series is superb and very well broken down in parts and i agree mine was actually too fast…
Very well narrated, I lived it!!! The journey came to an end too soon, like others, left me wanting for more :)
Thanks for posting your comment Inam bhai… I will narrate every minute of this journey to you when we meet next time ;-)
In the mean time why don’t you write something about Mauritius and share your experiences with us… I am sure everybody would love know about the iconic places and a bit about history, the pictures of the beautiful island would also be a treat…
Harish bhai, I was meaning to share my experinces if this Island country ever since I came her, will do it soon. See you in April 1st week :)
Lovely experience Bhattsaab. I agree with others that the narration moved a little too fast. I would have loved more of Deoria tal and Mana. But, excellent write-up nonetheless. I would love to travel like this someday.
Thank you, Sir…
While everyone says that it is too fast, I think by being quick and non-glossy i.e. without the paraphernalia of drive-details, you have made Sari and Deoria Tal much more accessible. I have never been to Sari or Deoria Tal and it was hard to figure out from other logs on how tough is the trek and is it at all feasible to do this with a small family. I think you made it easy so many thanks.
More details around what all facilities are available, contact numbers for Mr. Negi or other appropriate folks who operate in that area, camping charges and general tips around what to prepare for would greatly help.
The Solar Charger is indeed a creative Jugad. I am sure you know this that there are good compact (size of a iPhone) solar chargers avail which has a USB out for charging your devices. They are pretty handy to carry. I have one and it is very useful on our trips to Sattal, where the camp (where we have been staying for ever, on our each trip) doesn’t have power. I think the solar panel is one of those large ones and probably the picture is not showing the scale right.
I had the same query as Pankaj. I have been to Ukhimath many years back.
Badri pics are marvellous. This pain about finding a good acco is often echoed by many travellers. Since so many people visit these shrines, someone should look at look into making affordable accommodation available. Vaishno Devi trust has done a wonderful job there. May be we need a Jagmohan here. Hopefully it would happen.
Thank you again Bhatt Saab. Wishing you a great sighting during this years’ census at Ranthambore. wishes.
Nandan Ji,
Thank you for taking the time out to read and leave a detailed comment. Deoria taI is just three KM gradual uphill walk from Sari village and I would not even categorize it as a proper trek so yes it is most appropriate to visit this place with family even if you have infants. Negi told me that he sometimes has to do 5 trips a day from his village to the taI. It is an easy drive if you wish to take your own vehicle up to Sari village. It has a spectacular panoramic view of famous mountain peaks. There is a small guest house at the tal and has almost all the modern facilities expected at that kind of place but most of the people prefer to stay in a tent which is available for 1000 rupees per night (sometimes negotiable ?)at Bhatt Jis place and two other similar dhabas at the tal. Once you are at the tal there are multiple options for proper trekking. I have phone numbers of Negi and Bhatt Ji and if anyone who reads this post and wishes for it I can always provide that. I did not want to make any personal information public.
iPhone size solar charger was unknown to me, thanks for that info.
And THANK YOU SO MUCH for wishing me great sighting this year. I really need wishes
GOOD I LIKE THIS VIDEO
Thanks. You are right without her support this trip would not have been possible