Part I covered our journey from New Delhi to Uttarkashi, during May 10. Our first night halt was at Rishikesh (220 kms from New Delhi). On Day-2 evening we were at Uttarkashi. After spending two days there, we moved on towards Gangotri. Let me mention over here, Gangotri opens for a specific period of the year (like other three Dhams). This year, the doors (pat) of temple opened from 16 May (after about a week of our visit) and will remain so till Deepavali. My description here, therefore, is a non-season affair. Once the season starts, visitors of all shades reportedly swarm the places / routes.
Next, I would say this – the road until Gnagotri is very good (except a small patch, which I cover later). Any type of car can comfortably make its way till Gangotri. I emphasise the point because before departure, all my reports indicated that roads beyond Uttarkashi may be a little un-doable. We had, in fact, also factored-in the possibility of leaving our car at Uttarkashi and hiring a vehicle to move further.
Gangotri shrine, dedicated to Goddess Ganga, is more of a notional/spiritual source of Ganga than a real one. The glacier mouth is further beyond, at Gaumukh (which is 18 kms trekking distance away from Gangotri and sadly, the glacier goes on receding farther every year). Furthermore, Ganga of Gangotri is actually Bhagirathi (one of the important tributaries of Ganga). Bhagirathi meets up with Alaknanda at Devprayag to form Ganga. Alaknanda, on its way to Devprayag, is met by Mandakini at Rudraprayag. In fact, there are five confluence points of tributaries of Ganga, which are together known as Panch Prayag, viz, Devprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag, Nandprayag and Vishnuprayag. One will come across all the five prayags, if driving to Badrinath. Two of them, (Rudraprayag and Devprayag) will come your way if you drive towards Kedarnath.
Uttarkashi – Harsil (73 kms) :-
Tanking up the car, we left Uttarkashi by 12.15 pm. The road to Gangotri passes through Maneri, Bhatwari, Gangnani and Harsil. Between Bhatwari (28 kms from Uttarkashi) and Gangnani, there is a bad patch due to ongoing construction. The patch lasts for precisely 13 kms, wherein the road conditions vary from dirt track to bare stony variety – the patch is drivable in a car, though it tends to restrict the speed.
However, before and after this patch, the roads are mostly in very good condition.
Gangnani is known for its hot water spring.
The view all around, as one travels along the Bhagirathi, is awesome. Here I would mention one point, though. Unlike other hilly terrains in Himachal, Kumaon or even Southern part of Garhwal for that matter, the landscapes on this route appeared somewhat less wooded. Forestation, however, increases as one nears Harsil/Gangotri. Thoroughly enjoying the scenery with swooping ranges and changing facets of Bhagirathi as she makes her way across the Himalayas, we reached Harsil by 4.00 pm.
Another point, duly recorded by Debosh – on this stretch (Uttarkashi-Gangotri ), in comparison to all our journeys across parts of Himalayas, we came across the MAXIMUM NUMBER OF STREMS . They include both varieties – the ones where the streams fall along the mountain on banks of the road and then disappear (perhaps under the road); and the ones where the stream belligerently crosses the road through stony cracks.
From somewhere after Bhatwari, we also faced spells of heavy rains. The rains persisted for the next two days, though in typical hill style – it would rain heavily in the evenings but sky became clear and sunny in the mornings.
Harsil (7860 ft/2400 mtrs ASL) :-
Harsil is a small, extremely scenic and not much explored hamlet located on the banks of Bhagirathi, encircled by snow-capped peaks. It is central to a number of treks routes in the area, apart from being the entry point to Kinnaur Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh. Our decision to stay in Harsil was based on these facts and that Gangotri is mere 30 kms from here.
Harsil, situated on the left side of the road reachable after a small detour, has very limited stay options – GMVN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) Tourist Rest House (01377-232210), PWD Inspection House located next to GMVN TRH (both situated on the western banks of Bhagirathi), Hotel Madhuban and Hotel Skylark(?). One point for GMVN TRH/ PWD – the parking area is around 500 mtrs away. The boys of GMVN are generally willing to lug the luggage, for a price.
For more stay options, one should check out Dharali, a largish township 2 kms ahead of Harsil, which has Hotel Anchal (01377 – 232237), Hotel Shivalik (01377 – 232242) and a number of other such hotels.
Thanks to rains, and our unpreparedness this time, we were struck hard by the freezing cold of Harsil. Due to lack of appropriate clothing, we were forced to put on two layers of dress and I was reduced to using Sharmi’s dupatta as muffler. This, despite provision of generous & heavy blankets. I was told that some amount of warm clothing is required throughout the summers.
Harsil draws its name from Harsingh (a type of dear with majestic horns). The southern peaks overlooking Harsil are shaped like Harsingh horns and therefore the name.
One curious fact – there is a waterfall in Harsil named Mandakini jharna. How come? – You may ask; I mean, Mandakini waterfall should have been in/around Rudraprayag or, conversely, the one here should have been Bhagirathi jharna. Well, the earthly realm of Geography here has been swamped by fantastical might of Bollywood. Actually, sizeable part of Raj Kapur’s ‘Ram Teri Ganga Maili’ was shot in Harsil and the famous jharna scene of Mandakini was shot under this particular waterfall, which now bears her name.
Another info – leopard sightings do happen in the area. The caretaker informed that just about two weeks back, a group of guests came across a leopard crossing the road. The guests, understandably, were thereafter in unusual hurry to head back home.
Gangotri (10,300 ft / 3140 mtrs ASL) :-
The next day, we made much awaited trip to Gangotri. Harsil to Gangotri is comfortable 1 to 1.30 hr drive on good roads. Apart from Dharali which offers a number of private stay options, there are a few locations viz Lanka, Bhairoghati etc en-route where GMVN has limited staying arrangements. Gangotri, of course has a wide array of guest houses/dharmsahla.
Entrance to Shrine area is through an arched gate, the last point for vehicles. Upon entering the gate, a narrow road reaches the shrine after about 5-600 mtrs. This road, along left side of Bhagirathi, typically houses variety of shops, restaurants, guesthouses, dharamshala, etc on either side. Another large and more elaborate set-up of guesthouses/ dharmshala is to be found on other side of the river, accessible through a pedestrian bridge across the river
The temple is located at the end of this road, which has a large courtyard and elaborate ghat. Location of the temple is very picturesque, amidst high mountains, watched by Gomukh glacier in the east. Bhagirath Shila, where King Bhagirath is believed to have performed his famed saadhna to bring Ganga from heaven to earth, is located within the compounds.
Water at the ghat is sheer divine – what else can the gangajal at Gangotri be? The surge of pristine streams, straight from the Gaumukh glacier visible ahead – well, it sure is capable of redeeming all the sinners of all the worlds. The water was ice cold and we could not dip hand/feet for more than a few seconds. The place was even more enjoyable since there were very few visitors at that time.
For those, who want to visit Gangotri but avoid rush of the season – the deity is shifted to Mukhawa temple, between Dharali/Harsil, after the doors of Gangotri are closed for the season. Therefore, it is not a bad idea to visit Gangotri in off-season and pay obeisance to the deity at Mukhawa temple.
During season, parking may be a problem for self-driven vehicles in Gangotri – so my advice would be to stay in a place like Harsil/Dharali/Lanka, etc and make local arrangement for visit from there.
Beyond Gangotri, one has the option to trek down to Gaumukh. Guides are available aplenty in Gangotri, for charge like Rs 2500/- per person for a two-day trekking trip. However, keep sufficient time margins, because trekking in this area needs clearance from local authorities and they have a restriction on number of clearances.
Once again, the drive to this dham is immensely doable and equally pleasurable.
Have a nice visit.
Dear Aurojit,
A post with full of useful information, as you know next Monday I will be leaving for Yamnotri & Gangotri , your post will be a great help.
Pictures are awesome.
You know apart from its natural beauty , Harsil is famous for its Rajma.
Did you stopped at Gangnani for a dip in thermal springs?
Hi Mahesh,
do share info on your travel to Gangotri – Yamunotri. Yamunotri is very much on agenda.
Rajma – I didn’t know. I suppose apples are also grown in abundance?
Gangnani, we did not do. Later sometime, perhaps.
Thanks.
Auro.
guys, i have a 1 year old son and we are planning 4 nights in binsar and 2 nights in ramgarh in late november/early december. at that time he will be 1 year 6 months old. do u believe it will be too cold for him?
also, i understand that the KMVN lodge in binsar is a great place to stay. but there is no power and they just provide hot water in the morning. however for my son, i need a heater at night and hot water in the evening. so can u folks suggest any alternative accommodation option one that does not cost more than Rs.1500 a night.
need to enjoy a great vacation. but need to make the arrangements for my son too :)
Reply
Hi Niladri,
Great spirit, I must say. Sorry I have not done Binsar. I did Nainital in late Dec and it was hellish cold. Roads till Nainital is covered in my post on Nainital in Ghumakkar. Roads till Almora (which I intend covering in Part II), that I drove on, are excellent.
I am sure you all will have a nice time. Thanks.
Auro.
Reading your post feels like visiting there itself.
Place looks like very calm and full of peace as not many tourists there, hence best time might be to visit in off season.
Thanks Abhishek,
Right, off season is better (preferably just before the start of season), if one is willing to miss the darshan of shrine in situ. In fact, if so inclined religiously, there is always an option in off seasons to do the darshan in other temples where the deity is brought during off season – it is usually on the route or in proximity.
Thanks.
Auro.
Awesome pics and post :-).
Thanks for sharing info.
Thanks a lot Virag.
Auro.
Aurojit Bhai,
Right from my childhood, we have been hearing and reading about Bhagirathi, Gangotri and Yamunotri. Somehow, despite my best efforts, I was never able to reach these holy places, despite reaching as far as Uttarkashi, mainly on business trips (I used to work for an ATM manufacturing company). Reading your post, it was like a dream come true for me. The excellent pictures, especially “Har Har Gangey” took me on a virtual tour of the place. Every moment I thought of myself being a part of the entourage.
Simply brilliant and thanks for sharing these wonderful experiences.
Do I need to say that your next post will be awaited eagerly !!
God bless you.
Mr Ram Dhall,
I am grateful as ever for your ingratiating comments. Thanks a ton.
As I brought out in the post, Gangotri is more reachable now than ever.
Now, I feel compelled as ever to discuss my doubts with you because your comments are from the depths of heart and highly cherished.
1. I feel that despite all the scepticism about Gods and religion, I would still prefer a place of religion and seek solace in such ambiance rather than a spot driven by commercial idealism.
2. On our way back from Gangotri, while crossing Uttarkashi, we offered lift to an aged lady clad in saffron trying to reach the other end of town. A localite, member of the local ashram, the moment she heard that we are coming from Gangotri, she uttered naturally ‘Har Har Gangey’.
During ensuing discussions, when we told that we went up to Gangotri across this very road, she exclaimed naturally, ‘ Aarey, agar pata hota ki aap jajman ja rahe ho – aur ek seat khali hai … to mai bhi chalti’ (we were three of us, considering one full seat for Debosh)
We wondered and deliberated and felt a sense of guilty gratification (after she disembarked). I mean, it is like saying, standing on Rajpath, ‘there are so many cars passing by with vacant seats, surely they would not mind if I ask for a lift from one of them’.
Well, driving over the city roads in our own cosy cars, we have actually forgotten the extent of benign possibilities. We, I would say , go on creating our own cosy worlds (no probs), which goes on banishing the real world (real probs).
If not us, our children will have a hard time differentiating between the world that is; and that ought to be.
Thanks again,
Auro.
Aurojit,
Very well written with excellent guidelines for travellers/pilgrims. Thanks for the nice post.
Thanks tarun that you liked the post.
Thanks, Auro.
Dear Mr. Aurojit ,
Really wonderful journey . Thanks for taking us on this virtual journey . I really enjoyed it.
Sahil
Sahil,
Thanks a ton.
What happens to your plans of visiting that place?
Keep us posted.
Auro.
Mr. Aurojit ,
We are still making plans but not yet sure , whether to visit Gangotri or Badrinath by the end of this month.
Sahil
I remember 10-12 years back I did a trek to “Dayara Bugyal”. I am from Kolkata and there were 4 guys from Mumbai – so there were the 5 of us and a guide and a couple of porters. About 10 people in the gang.
We stayed at Uttarkashi for a night and then proceeded to Bhatwari village from where the trek started. It was early December and we found to our dismay that the snow was absolutely too much. So we could not reach “Dodital” as was the original plan, and had to stop at Dayara Bugyal where we spent a night at one of the abandoned Gujjar huts. I must say that the night with a clear sky full of stars was stunning. And the next morning we had an amazing view of 3 peaks – Draupadi Ka Danda, and 2 others I do not remember. What a sight it was !
Anyway since we saved a couple of days because we could not reach Dodital, we spent the time at Gangnahni beside Bhagirathi, which is just a stop ahead of Harsil. It was a stunning couple of days too as we chilled out in the hot water bath there amid natural surroundings as it snowed endlessly. Just visualize – body immersed in a natural hot water spring, while its snowing. What an experience man. Later we had some beer and slept – so completely relaxing as the Bhagirathi flowed. Of course we could not go to Gangotri because the road was closed – remember, it was early December.
Interestingly, Gangnahni is the place where Rishi Parashar (the father of Vyas Deb who wrote Ramayana) used to meditate. So I felt a bit like the great hermit too :). The fact is, there are an endless number of hidden gems tucked away in the Himalayas.
Hi Niladri,
Going through your comments I am reminded of a bong travelogue ‘Bigolito Koruna Jahnavi Jomuna’ by Shonku Maharaj.
Your trip must have been real interesting!
And I agree, Himalayas are real founts of gems.
Thanks.Auro.
thnks for your post………
i just wanted to knw… which car you have used…….
m planing to go there in maruit omni….. is it safe dere in ?
Thanks Sanjiv,
It was a santro.Omni will be equally good I guess.
As I said, roads are quite good except 13 kms patch after Bhatwari (and about 3 kms before Uttarkashi). Terrains otherwise are like any other hilly terrain.
No reason for your Omni to be deprived of its share of dham yatra.
Have a nice time.
Auro
Aurojit Bhai,
I came back late last night from Mukteshwar and Ramgarh and saw your comment this morning only.
At the outset, not only your posts, but the responses given by you on others’ views are equally lovable.
I don’t know if you seen my post – “Vrindavan – Jai Shri Radhe”. The post opens with the admission that I am a reasonably religious person (I have also stated my shortcomings too).
My grandfather, though a very practical man, was a very religious person too. Ever since my childhood memories, I remember him carrying me on his shoulders, every morning at five to a gurudwara located close by. While he did his “seva” and “Ardaas”, I would follow him doing the rituals. So obviously something rubbed into me too.
Now about solace at the holy places, I am in total agreement with you. I feel more at home, sitting at the banks of Ganga ji, where one of my favourite holiday homes – Swami Dayanand Saraswati Ashram is located. Staying there for a couple of days, is almost transporting yourself to a different world. And the solace one gets participating the evening “AartI” at Har Ki Pauri, Haridwar, is an experience beyond worlds. I am at equal ease at the Vallankani Shrine or the New Delhi Cathedral or the Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya.
Now the question is – why do we find more solace at these places !!
My personal opinion is that all these religious places we get an opportunity to have a “direct contact” with God. When we go a temple, we are virtually talking to Him and ask for all sorts of favours, which we would normally not like to share with others easily (sometimes confessions too).
I also feel that real worship is doing your duties towards your family, the place of your work and the society, honestly and diligently. Like you did by helping the poor woman during your visit. But then, living in this world, one has to be equally practical too.
As Mirza Ghalib said:
” Bak Rahaa Hoon Junoon Mein Kya Kya Kuch,
Kuch Na Samjhe Khuda Kare Koi.”
(What all I have said in this feverish craziness,
May God will it to be incomprehensible )
Forgive me, if I have gone a little too far. But that’s the magic of your writings – you have the blessings of carrying the readers along with you during your travel tales..
Warm regards
Mr Ram Dhall
Firstly – Thanks as ever.
Sorry for delay in going through your reply, I was also away on the ritual family garmi chhutti.
Will surely be following your article on Vrindavan; after the one on Firozeshah kotla which I came across while glancing through the recent posts.
While expressing gratitude to your enriching pearls of wisdom, my dilapidated senses induce me to (re-)say the following (with apologies to Ghalib)
” Kah Rahaa Hoon Junoon Mein Itna Kuch,
Kuchch to Samjhe Khuda Kare kam-s-kam Koi.
We are listening.
Thanks again.
Auro.
Awesome post and great pics to support it…..Great work Auro !!! I really like it. I myself is planning to go Harsil/Gangotri in first week of July. Any ideas if weather be any problem during that time….? I read somewhere that April to June is best to visit……
Thanks,
Hi Vishal
Thanks for going through the post.
I dont foresee much trouble weather-wise during first week of July.
Info is available on local weather in the area, which you may consult before actual departure.
Have a great time.
Auro.
hmm.. Thanks for the great road details. Its on the cards but you know unless you really do it (death is in the details) , the card-value is no value. lets see. thanks again. reading it makes me more confident.
I am waiting for Mahesh to give us report on Yamunotri-Gangotri. I guess one can do both for a 8 day holiday.
Hi Nandan,
By the wishes of all Ghumakkars, it was a successful trip. We covered Yamnotri , Gangotri & other areas on the way to Yamnotri & Gangotri in 5 days along with my six years daughter who trek 6 Km by foot.
Post may be by next week, by the time if you required any information about Yamnotri & Gangotri , please feel free to contact.
Yes, 8 days is reasonable enough (and more than 5 days of Mahesh).
Awaiting Maheshs post on the extended route.
Auro.
Yes, 8 days is reasonable enough (and more than 5 days of Mahesh).
Awaiting Mahesh’s post on the extended route.
Auro.
hi,
nice description… i am planning to do this same trip on bike, this week onle i.e. i will leave on june 17, 2010. what do you suggest.. like how to tackle rain .. and moreover what are road conditions for driving bike..
Hi Sachin,
route is perfect for your bike…rains are regular but unpredictable at this point of season.
Auro.
Aurojit Babu,
Kyaa Baat Hai. Please do keep on writing. There are many of us, who would always be awaiting your write ups.
It’s a pleasure hearing from you. Trust you had a great holiday with the family.
Yes, I would await your valuable comments on Firoz Shah Kotla.
Warm regards and best wishes.
Hi Aurojit:
Your trip details to Gangotri are awesome and very informative for our trip to chardhams. I really want to applaud you for the wonderful pics and the description of the places and your feelings you shared. I have been going thourgh so many articles and blogs for the information on the travel details to chardhams as we six of us (aged above 45 yrs) planned the trip starting from 7th Sep’10 from Dehradun-Yamunotri-Gangotri-Kedarnath-Badrinath by private vehicle. Would be thankful if any of you share your experiences to chardhams.
Thank you.
Best wishes,
Hi Dear Vijaypratap,
Thanks for following the post. Roads in the area are generally good and a travel in private vehicle would surely be enjoyable. Though my experience in the trip was limited to 1 dham only, comments from knowledgeable persons viz Mahesh Senwal, Nadan etc indicate that the journey to 4 dhams can certainly be fun-filled and fulfilling.
Will be more than happy to share any specific information on the subjet.
Thanks.
Auro.
Hi Dear,
Really a very useful post and info about Harsil, I am in fond of such locations, I am 47 yrs old and now wants to make a hotel in such unknown and untouched but with beautiful picturesque location for my retiring life. I’ll definitely be there after vacations. Can u tell me, has Harsil all weather access or 6-7 months in a year like Gangotri.
I’ll be grateful if u can suggest some more untouched locations for my purpose.
Thanks in advance dear
Dear Surinder,
Although this question is for Aurojit but I am replying on his behalf.
Harsil is accessible all through out the year. During winters when the door of Gangotri’s are closed , the Goddess Ganga is worshiped at Village Mukhwas located one Km. from Harsil.
Thanks Dear, If everything as plan will go Mid of July with my wife on a short trip. Can u advise if Lansdown canbe covered with the Harsil.
Thanks Mr Mahesh, Mr Nadan Jha,
for standing in for me.
Real Grateful.
Auro.
Hello Vijaya Pratap jee,
Please read the following story by Mahesh.
https://www.ghumakkar.com/2010/06/22/an-introduction-to-dev-bhoomi-%E2%80%93-uttrakhand/
He recently did a trip to Yamunotri and Gangotri and that too from Doon so probably he can answer some of your queries.
Dear Mr. Vijay,
Let me know what type of Information you are looking for. some of the informations are given below:-
1.Approx No. of days required for (Dehradun – Yamnotri – Gangotri – Kedarnath – Badrinath- Rishikesh ) is 10 days , in between you can enjoy some of the places like barkot , uttarkashi , Harsil , gangnani Soneprayag, Devpravag, Karnpryag , Augestmuni, Nandpryag , Vishnuprayag, srinagar etc.
2. As lack of good restaurants ,you are suggested to have your meals in Garhwal Mandal hotels.
3. Never do advance bookings for such a long trip because of unpredictable landslides.
4. Even in summers , carry light winter clothes , rain coat , torch.
Thanks Dear, If everything as plan will go Mid of July with my wife on a short trip. Can u advise if Lansdown canbe covered with the Harsil. I am planning visit there too in one side journy.
Thanks Mr Surinder,
Hope you have a nice visit.
Lnadsdown with Harsil is a mixed proposition – From Harsil/Gangotri, to go to Landsdown you need to come back at least to Rishikesh. Then on, on your way to Devprayag, there are two or three route taking you via Ghumkhal or Dungadda to Lansdowne.
Any further queries are always welcome.
Auro.
Dear friend,
Amazed at the type of interactions at this site.
We r planning to visit Himalayas in mid nov. 2010 with our parents aged above 70, still reasonably healthy.. won’t do much walking or trekking or pony rides.. some religious fervour ( not very keen on timed darshans).
We from Kerala, Our kids are looking for enjoyable winter with some snow…..
The plan was as follows..
Can I have your inputs.? cross references etc..
Day 1 . Haridwar — reaching by Shatabdi at 1135
afternoon- local sight seeing- Ganga Aarathi
2. Leave Haridwar by early morning — thru Rishikesh, devaprayag, Rudraprayag….Reach Joshimath by evening– overnight stay
3.Visit Badrinath in the morning and Auli by cable car in afternoon. stay in Joshimath
4.Travel to Srinagar, Tehri or Uttarkashi— Uttarkashi sightseeing– stay overnight
5.Visit Gangotri and back— stay overnight at Srinagar / Tehri/ Uttarkashi
6. Travel back to Haridwar– reach by evening
All travels by car..
Can you give us the practicability??? Taxi ride timings?? Approx. tariffs for taxi?
Recommended places for accomodation at Haridwar, Joshimath, Srinagar, Tehri, Uttarkashi ???
Thanks
Kumar
Hi,
I have driven till Manali comfortably. Just want to know if driving till Gangaotri that too by wagonR is safe or not?
Hi Mohit,
Roads till Gangotri are in very good condition, except a smallish patch that I discussed above.
WagonR will have no problem at all, right upto the parking area of Gangotri temple.
Now, the temple is scheduled to be opened shortly. Thereafter, expect the roads to be somewhat busy, with enough crowd travelling in that direction.
Enjoy.
Auro.
hello every one,,..after reading all articles i would like to ask all my friend that my religion is chritianity, would it be rite to visit gangotri in march..will i face any descrimination.. as i am found of mountains,espacially glaciers…i would be just a trip to glaciers not a religious trip..please need your advise
Auro
You are great… With ur travel experience I planned for Harsil. Is june is the right season for visiting Harsil. Can you give me the main spots detail nearby Harsil as I have only three to four day stay plan.
Hi,
Excellent information!!
I am planning to visit Harshil in mid November this year with family & friends, would like to stay in Harshil and cover all the scenic places around. is it the right time and what are the different places i can visit and how many days would it take?
Thanks
Auro,
One of the best travelogues on Gangotri trip I have come across. Very very informative, very positive and in good, error free English. Thank you very much. And your description certainly tempts any reader to follow to visit Gangotri.
I am planning a trip next month and pray it will come true. If you have time, please give me some contact emails or tel numbers to book room in Harsil or Lanka.
Wish you many more happy journeys.
Regards,
Mathew