I had been visiting Himachal Pradesh and seen most of it… but somehow never heard of Masroor. I kept visiting Jwalaji almost every year, but always missed Masroor which was just 35-40 Kms from there. Once in some news paper i saw some photos of Masroor and thought, why did I miss this beautiful place. The thought went down the memory lanes and I again forgot about it.
मैने हिमाचल काफी बार घूमा है और ज्यादातर जगह देख चुका हूं… परन्तु न जाने क्यों मसरुर के बारे में किसी ने नही बताया। ज्वालाजी मैं बहुत बार गया पर मसरुर जो केवल वहां से 35-40 किमी दूर है, छूटता रहा। एक बार किसी अखबार में इसके बारे में पढ़ा भी, पर वो लेख मस्तिष्क में कहीं खो गया और मसरुर के बारे में बिलकुल भूल ही गया
After coming back to India, as is my schedule always I planned visiting Jwalaji. Since this time my children had also come to India for vacations, I decided to visit Vaishno Devi and Jwalaji, because children had forgtten Vaishno Devi altogether. So one fine morning, we started from Delhi on our Getz towards Vaishno Devi. It was an experience travelling on newly laid roads by NHAI and paying them some toll was a pleasure. We started early morning around 4 am and our first stop was at the floating restaurant on the bhakhra canal. Just after crossing Sirhind this canal comes and there is a beautiful floating restaurant in the canal.
बेरुत से भारत आते ही, जैसा कि मैं हमेशा करता हूं, मैने ज्वाला जी जाने का कार्यक्रम बनाया। मेरे बच्चे भी मेरे साथ जाने वाले थे अतः मैने वैष्णों देवी का प्रोग्राम भी बना लिया, क्योंकि बच्चे वैष्णों देवी भूल चुके थे. तो एक मस्त सुबह हमने दिल्ली से रवानगी डाली। नई बनी सड़क व सुविधाओं के सामने टोल टैक्स खल नही रहा था । जैसे ही सरहिन्द पार किया, नहर किनारे एक खूबसूरत तैरता हुआ भोजनालय दृष्टिगोचर हुआ।
Canal near Sirhind
The location of the Restauran is awesome, the food is very tasty and rates are reasonable. The floating area is made with joining some pontoons and tying them with ropes with the poles on canal bank. If those ropes are broken, by chance… we will end up finishing our breakfast in Rajasthan….. because the water flow is very fast. This Restaurant is just on the high way and can not be missed.
भोजनालय बड़े ही खूबसूरत दृष्यों के बीच था, खाना बड़ा स्वादिष्ट और मूल्य न चुभने वाला। मुख्य रेस्त्रां तो भूमि पर ही है, पर खाने का एक स्थान नहर के बीचों बीच कुछ लोहे के बड़े-2 डिब्बों को बांध कर उस पर प्लेटफार्म बना कर कुर्सी मेज लगायी गई थी… इस पूरे जुगाड़ को मोटे -2 रस्सों से किनारे पर खम्बों के साथ बांधा था. बेटी ने पूछा – क्या होगा अगर ये रस्से टूट गये. मैने हंसकर कहा – कुछ नहीं खाना शुरु पंजाब में करेंगे व खत्म राजस्थान में.
जब भी आप इस रास्ते पर जायें तो सोच सकते हैं एक बार तेज बहते जल पर बैठ कर नाशता करने के बारे में.।
Floating Restaurant
After taking stomach full of Aloo ke Paranthe, we continued our journey towards Jammu. There is hardly any empty space on this stretch of road in Punjab. One city ends and other starts. The roadside is full of restaurants, shops, malls…. but the highest numbers of shops are of liquor, some of which have great English sign boards. Since English is mother tongue of Punjabis (after drinking), they feel proud in writing sign boards in English with some spellings which even Britishers would find hard to comprehend. See one example:
तो पेट भर आलू के पराठे खाने के बाद हमने अपनी यात्रा शुरु की…लुधियाना, जालंधर पठानकोट होते हुए, जम्मू की तरफ। इस पूरे रास्ते पर चहल पहल रहती है व एक शहर खत्म होते ही दूसरा शूरू हो जाता है। पूरे रास्ते भीड़ मिलती है व रास्ते के दोनो ओर रेस्त्रां, दुकाने, फैक्टरियां, माल इत्यादि, पर सबसे अधिक दुकाने दारू की मिलेंगी. चूंकि आधी बोतल अंदर जाते ही पंजाबी भाइयों की मातृ-भाषा अंग्रेजी बन जाती है, अतः अधिकतर दारू के बोर्ड अंग्रेजी में ही थे, चाहे उन्हे पढ़ने के बाद अंग्रेज भी सर फोड़ लें… मतलब समझते समझते। जरा नीचे का चित्र देखिये और …
Punjab Da Meenu (foto credit-Facebook unknown photographer)
So someone has to tell me if “Child Beer” means small beer or beer for the children.. and how can we “Drink Safe” before driving… ? pls give your hilarious reply in comments.
अब भला कोई बतायेगा कि “child beer” बच्चों की बीयर को कहते है या बीयर के बच्चे को… और गाड़ी चलाने से पहले सुरक्षित शराबखोरी क्या हो सकती है … वो भी पंजाब पुलिस के हुक्मनामे के अनुसार ????? पता हो तो बताना जरूर कमैंट देते वक्त.
We reached Vaishno Devi, had our Darshans and the next day started our journey back. Since I am writing about Masroor, I am not giving details of Vaishno Devi Yatra, but can not stop myself from pasting some photos;
खैर माता माता करते हम वैष्णों देवी पंहुचे, दर्शन किये और अगले दिन चल पड़े ज्वाला जी की ओर. चुंकि ये लेख मसरुर के बारे में है, अतः माता के दर्शनों की कहानी फिर कभी, फिर भी एक दो चित्र पेश हैं।
On way to Vaishno Devi
How did the goat get there ?
On our return just before Pathankot we took the Pathankot by-pass and reached Nurpur which is border of Himachal and Punjab. From Here we took Pathankot -Jogindernagar High way and advanced towards Dharamsala. On advice of a driver, we turned right on the high way, to by – pass Kangra traffic and reach Rani Taal direct. This was a state road, very narrow but well built. After about 22 Kms of journey I saw the board “Masroor rock temple – 5 Kms). All my memories woke up suddenly and I decided to visit the temple. Although it was becoming dark, yet we decided to see this magnificent structure.
वापसी में पठानकोट से कुछ पहले, हमने बाई-पास रोड़ लिया और पठानकोट की भीड़ से बचकर सीधे नूरपुर पंहुचे जो पंजाब-हिमाचल सीमा पर है. यहां से हमने पठानकोट-जोगिन्दर नगर हाईवे लिया। एक चालक की सलाह पर हमने मुख्य रोड़ छोड़कर दाहिने जाता हुआ रानीताल रोड़ ले लिया, जिससे हमे कांगड़ा के जाम में न उलझना पड़े. इस रास्ते मै पहली बार आया था … ये एक छोटा पर साफ रोड़ था. तकरीबन 22 किमी जाने पर मैने एक बोर्ड देखा – मसरुर राक टेम्पल – 5 किमी… मेरी सारी यादे वापिस आ गईं व हालांकि अंधेरा होने वाला था,फिर भी हमने निर्णय लिया कि देख कर ही जायेगे।
Masroor temple complex was built in around 6th or 7th century. One mountain was cut and carved into a magnificient temple complex. The temple was so strong that it got a very little damage from the earthquake of 1905, which had destroyed most of the structures of Himachal then. Since the temple complex was hidden in thick jungles, it could not be looted and destroyed by muslim invaders.
मसरुर राक टैम्पल शायद 6वीं या 7वी शताब्दी के आसपास बने थे. एक पूरे पहाड़ को काट कर एक खूबसूरत मंदिर की शक्ल दे दी थी हमारे प्राचीन कारीगरों ने. मंदिर इतना मजबूत बना था कि 1905 के भयंकर भूकम्प, जिसने इस पूरे इलाके को उजाड़ दिया था, भी इसका कुछ नही बिगाड़ सका। चूंकि मंदिर घने जंगलो के बीच था, मुस्लिम आक्रांता भी इसे देख नही पाये, व ये उनके द्वारा तोड़ा नही गया, जबकि इससे कुछ किमी दूर कांगड़ा किले पर उन्होने अधिकार जमा लिया था।
Masroor temple
The main Temple complex has a small and beautiful artificial lake and almost all the Dhauladhar, snow laden peaks are visible in the background. The view is awesome and looks like a huge painting. When we entered the complex it was almost dark. A man appeared from nowhere and asked us to pay for entry fee. We paid Rs. 5 per person and entered the temple.
मुख्य मंदिर परिसर में एक छोटी सी मानव निर्मित झील है और लगभग पूरा धौलाधार व इसकी हिमाच्छादित चोटियां यहां से स्पष्ट नजर आती हैं. पूरा दृष्य ऐसे लगता है मानों किसी चित्रकार ने बड़ा सा चित्र बना कर आकाश में लटका दिया हो। जब हम परिसर में प्रविष्ट हुए तो अंधेरा होने ही वाला था। एक व्यक्ति न जाने कहां से प्रकट हुआ और 5 रु प्रति व्यक्ति, टिकट थमा दी….और हम मंदिर में प्रविष्ट हुए।
Masroor temple complex
The main temple of Masroor was actually a Shiva Temple, but now idols of Shri Ram, Laxman and Sita are there…perhaps during the earthquake of 1905, the shivaling was lost We entered the main temple and saw it around. It was really surprising to see how a whole mountain was cut and made into a hall, alongwith idols, steps and a huge hall.
मुख्य मंदिर वस्तुतः एक शिव मंदिर था पर अभी वहां श्री राम, लक्षमण व सीता जी की मुर्तियां हैं। हम जब मुख्य मंदिर के अंदर गये तो आश्चर्य चकित रह गये कि किस तरह से एक पहाड़ को काट कर इस तरह से बनाया जा सकता है.. कहीं कोई जोड़ नही, कोई सिमेंट नहीं केवल पहाड़ काट कर गर्भ गृह, मूरतियां, सीढियां, दरवाजे बनाये गये थे।
Main temple Masroor
The Sun was going down and it was becoming dark. We hurriedly took some photos which later I had to enhance by software so that something can be seen. So if you find some sharpness of the photos missing, please bear with me. Here are some of the carvings of temple.
सूर्य ढल रहा था और अंधेरा बढ़ रहा था. हमने जल्दी-2 कुछ चित्र खींचे जिन्हे बाद में कम्पयूटर से ठीक करना पड़ा ताकि कुछ नजर आ सके। अतः यदि आपको लगे कि चित्र में वो बात नही जो मेरी बाकी पोस्ट के चित्रों मे होती है तो क्षमा कीजियेगा. देखिये कुछ चित्र मसरुर यानि हिमाचल के एलोरा के
Pond in temple complex
There is a stair, that too cut into a mountain, leading to the roof of the temple. From here we can see the pond, the village and entire range of snow clad Dhauladhars.
पहाड़ को काट कर ही एक सीढ़ी बनाई गई है जो आपको मंदिर की छत पर ले जाती है और यहां से पूरा गांव व धौलाधार की धवल चोटियां कुछ अलग ही नजर आती हैं।
Refurbishing by ASI
Masroor, pond and school in back ground
Another side of Masroor
Another view of Masroor
Main complex
another temple
I know that the photos have not depicted the real beauty of the rock cut temple due to it being dark….. So you have to visit there yourself to see and appreciate the great art work done without any machines, merely by hands by ancient Indian craftsmen.
Masroor temple complex is about 22 Kms from Ranitaal. RaniTal is a Railway Station for Jwalamukhi. If going to Dharmshala then Ranital comes in way a few Kilometers before Kangra. From RaniTaal one has to take direction of Nagrota Suriyan and on this road one can see directions for Masroor.
चित्रों में बारिकियां व पत्थर में बनाई आकृतियां साफ नही नजर आ रही क्योंकि अंधेरे में ही ये खींचे गये है।…. आपको स्वंय जाना पड़ेगा इस आश्चर्यजनक स्थान को देखने व साधूवाद देने उन बेनाम कलाकारों को जिन्होने बिना किसी यंत्र के केवल हाथों से ही पूरे पहाड़ को काट दिया और इसे एक खूबसूरत मंदिर में बदल दिया
मसरुर रानी ताल रेलवे स्टेशन से 22 किमी दूर है. रानीताल छोटी रेलगाड़ी जो पठानकोट से जोगिन्द्र नगर जाती है, के बीच में पड़ता है। इस का नाम ज्वालामुखी रोड़ भी है। रानी ताल से लुंज होते हुए नगरोटा सूरियां रोड़ पर आपको मसरूर के बोर्ड मिल जायेंगे… वैसे मैने नीचे मानचित्र भी लगा दिया है
Route map from Rani Taal to Masroor
If you are going to Jwalaji /chintapurni/Kangra or DharamShala then Masroor can be seen by driving a few extra Kilometers…. good luck
great sir, great post. an unknown place for me. in punjabi quote- aisi post wohi banda likh sakta hai, jispe wahe guru di mehar hai. great, great, just graet.
but 2 language are doing mix-up. post should be in hindi or english.
Thanks Lakshaya for reading and commenting.
I deliberately wrote post in both language so that hindi knowing people can also enjoy it.
Thanks for live visit with punjabi paranthe and desi daaru , also thanks for showing us the photographs of the rock temple which shows the artistic mind of Indian people.
hope it will be continue.
Thanks chopra ji…. ab ke jwalaji jao, to yahan bhi ho kar aana
24 ???? ??? ???? ?? ?? ??? ?? ???? ??? ?? ???? ?? ?????? ?? ?? ????? ??? ????? ?? ? ????? ??????? ?? ????? ???????? ???? ?????? ??? ?????? ?? ? ????? ??? ?? ?? ?? ????? ?? ???? ??? ??? ?
?????? ???????? ????? ?? ?? ?? ??? ????? ?? ??? ?? ?? ?? ????? ?? ???? ?? lol
Manu Welcome back on net. ?? ??? ????? ka isse accha moka kaya ho sakta hai , abhi to 10 bhi nahin baje hain.
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??? ???????? ???? ???? ????-???? ?? ?? ??? ??… Welcome back !!
??? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ????? ?? ??? ???? ?? ????? ?? ??? ??????? ??? ????? ?? ??? ?? ?? ????…LOL
LOL.
>>>Since English is mother tongue of Punjabis (after drinking)…so TRUE!!!
tks bapu nagar !!
Dear SS,
Very nice writing good photos. So many time I was there around Kangra but never heard about Masroor. I think it should be promote by Himachal Tourism. I was reading Chilled beer, but later I come to know through your post it is Baccha Beer. All rates are under 1 $, good to attract NRI as it start here from 5 $. Beer normally served from 25oml to 1000ml . Patiala peg is popular among punjabis. May be some one ask for 1000ml for Rs. 50 then Bar tender can take him to sign board and tell it is Baccha Beer for Rs.50.
As you know 80 milligrams of alcohol per 100 milliliters of blood is allowed for driving. Aaj da Menu attracts driver to enjoy it, but this limit ended very quickly when anyone strat drinking and then driving on road is dangerous for others and himself. Like to add one more thing Professional Young Drivers in India drive continously without sleeping. I was with that type of driver and he told me he was sleeping for too many kms when he was driving on GT Road. Later I got news his Sumo met accicident with truck, and all passengers included that driver were killed.
Thanks
Tks Sharmaji. Most of the commercial drivers are more attentive after taking a few pegs. Once we were going in Sumo when I saw the driver sleeping in between. I woke him up and asked him to take a cup of tea… but that gr8 man had 2 pegs and afterwards all night drove well and didnt sleep.
We cant blame them… always driving that too in India, is not bachchon ka khel
The temple is indeed beautiful SS. Thanks for taking us there. Did you also visit Pong Dam? It is a beautiful water reservoir and bird sanctuary that receives thousands of birds from all over the world every year…
Tks Vibhaji. I visited Pong Dam earlier..but had no photos. This winter when I come to India…this entire circle is on my hot list.
SS jee, one more wonderful post from your side. ???? ????? ?? ?? ?? ????? ??????.
Very beautiful place calm ,serene and vintage. Pictures although little blurred by software but still are very good to show the beauty of the place . And you have described it in a wonderful way. Thanks for sharing this unexplored place in Ghumakkar.com
Keep Travelling and Sharing.
Thanks Vishalbhai… Some photos of different forms of gods, and some stories which were carved into stones, could not come well and even software could not restore them… so I discarded those.
Perhaps after my second visit I would be able to present a better photologue.
Wishing you good luck for your Amarnath Yatra. You are very lucky that Baba Barfani has invited you there. in 2010 I made programme with my wife and other friends to visit there, but could not get leave from office, and my wife went alone there. No one goes there without His wish.
Will wait for another gr8 series on Amarnath from you. :)
Aum namah Shivaye.
I remember this temple, visited with you
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SS Ji,
I have never heard about this strange and beautiful place Masrur. The post was written really in an attractive manner and the pictures were adding weightage to the post. Child Beer………….Hahaha. Well in a nut shell the post was really great .
Waiting for the next one………
Thanks.
Mukesh ji thanks for your comments… where has your avatar vanished ?
So I am sure you must have spoken this shair yesterday ?? LOL
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Thanks for sharing the less explored place with us , I never heard about “Masrur .
Pictures of temple is beautiful.
Incredible India !
Mahesh Semwal ji,
tks… yes it is Incredible India !!!! I have all the life lived abroad…but still can say ???? ???? ????
I never heard about this place though I visited chintapurni and jwalaji once. “AAJ DA MEENU” was fantastic and so the information about floating restaurant. But somehow I miss the snow capped dhauladhar range in photographs. As you mentioned that it was already late so no complains :-)
Amit.. first congratulations for a new life. How r u feeling …hope your ghumakkari will be increased after marriage.
tks for your comments… yes there were some great photos but due to darkness, they became unuseable… may be next time
Dear SS ji, The legacy explored, our country is blessed with such magnificent art work which are actually incomparable. Proud to be an Indian, and deeply appreciate your enthusiasm and phillanthropic attitude of sharing and honouring these invaluable works of Indian artisan. I am certainly looking forward to have some more detailing on this temple like the idols, rituals followed there and who is managing the place. You being one of the most hardcore ghumakkar surely have these informations. The humour part of this post cannot be enjoyed alone it has to be with near and dear ones, main already aapkey humour ka kaayal hoon aur uss per ye zordaar vakyaa, magar ye manna padegaa iss me bhi mujhey punjab ki ek behad khoobsurat virasat dikhti hey Unki masoomiyat…..which is a rare commodity nowadays…. long live punjab Ye desh aap par hamesha Fakhr karta raha hay..aur rahega
Ganguly Dada, thanks for your beautiful comments. Your comments have always been a source of inspiration for me.
Yes punjabis are very straight forward, hard working and innocent. I have seen their skills in foreign countries and in punjab.
The Masroor complex is now a days under control of ASI and they are re-building the broken parts. Most of the artifacts have been shifted to State museum in Shimla. The shiva-linga from the temple is missing and people have kept ordinary idols of Shri Ram, Laxman and Sitaji and locals pray there.
It is a protected monument now, and hope government will make it tourist friendly soon.
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Tank ju SSji, zoo are gagrate, joo are gud, yoo are butter and u are bast (peene ke baad punjabi matri bhasha).
thanks SSji, excellendt post.
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Have you read my Madrid posts ?
I think you were also with me when second time we visited Masroor
Tridev charan g aap se ye ummeed nahi thee
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????? ???? ???? ?? ???? safe driving ????? ???? ????? ?? ??????? ????? ???? ???? ?? ???????? ??? ???-?????? ????? ?? ???? ?????? ??. ???? ????? ??? ????? ????? ?? ???? ?? ?? ????? ???? ??. ????? ????? ???-??? ????? ???? ??.
?? ??? ???? ?????? ???? ???? ?? ???? “safe driving” ???? ?? ????? ?? ?????.
?? ?? “child beer” ?? ??? ???? ??….
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LOL…montyji, ?? ?? ??? ???… ?? ???? ?? ???? ?? ???? ?? ???..
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SSji, thanks a lot for the highly enjoyable post written in your characteristic style. Thanks also for making it bilingual, which is useful for people like me, who are more comfortable with written English than with Hindi, or vice versa.
Thanks also for putting Masrur under the spotlight. I have not heard of it and I am sure that it deserves much more publicity. It looks like the work on the temple complex was stopped halfway; maybe the ruling dynasty was overthrown by someone who did not have any interest in completing it. The place definitely deserves much more attention than it is getting at present.
The “Punjab Da Meenu” was priceless. Not a single line is without humour, unintended or otherwise. However, the admonishment to “Drink safe before driving” was beyond my comprehension. Are the Punjab Police advocating “one for the road”? LOL.
Tks DL….It was due to personal interest taken by former PM Vajpaiji that this temple was revived…ASI was made incharge and then it was cleaned of shrubs… tickets put for entry to stop village boys playing chor-police here.
For some years this zeal continued, but then stopped where it was. God knows why.
Drink safe is strange thing.. because on all along roads there are signs saying – Dont mix drinking and driving – Punjab Police.
chalo … at least we get some laughs on these funny phrases
First time I have heard of Masroor. The temple is a great example of Indian skills and craft, very beautiful. Restaurant inside canal is also unheard of so far. Pictures are also good.
Thanks for taking us to this unknown (at least to me) place
Tks Deependra Solanky…. hope this has come to your future travel list
awesome post !
awsome comment.. tks
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OK Mister neeraj g mun skrifa slensku en hver vilja lesa a?
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???? ????????? ????? ?? ???????? ??? ?????? ?? – I will write in Icelandic but who will read it?
Mukesji.. it is correct… the only change is – I can write in Icelandic but who will understand it ?
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?? ?? ?? Future ?? ????? ?? Nature ?? ????? ???? ???? ???? ???? ?? ?? ??? ?? ?????? ?? ???? ???
LOL…neeraj.. you are a naughty boy. !!
Oa Neerjaa, khaush keeta e’ o kakka! baija baija kar ditti. Khoosh raho.
It is a FOG, SS.
Thank you for introducing us to this place which is not very known. I am hoping that with ASI taking over (though when ASI takes over, they stop any/all religious activities) the place would get on the heritage map and probably more people would benefit from observing this masterpiece.
I am putting a link of a Ghumakkar’s blog which has some more pics
http://phototravelings.blogspot.in/2012/06/masroor-temples-monolithic-marvels-by.html
Vibha wrote a small piece as well on this in TOI.
SS Fans should watch out for the Editorial coming day after.
OOOO thanks Nandan… if Vibha had some fotos, I would have taken her permission to put some more photos here in my post.
chalo next time I will write again about this alongwith Pong Dam.
Gar hamingju, Silent sl, a vera lgun rithfundur fyrir jl. E&OE.
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S.S. Ji. ???????….
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Silent Ji,
Thanks a lot for writing about Masrur. It is one of the few monolithic rock cut architectural sites in India. As you have rightly said, it is indeed mini Elora.
The surprising part is the rock. Normally Himalayan rocks are not found to be suitable for carving and excavating cave temples. Deccan Trap , found in Western India is the ideal rock type for these kind of monolithic wonders. And as you have said this structure has survived earthquake. Salute to those anonymous souls who found the perfect, right place to carve this monument.
Masrur is definitely on cards while visiting Himachal next time.
Again thank you for exploring, writing and showing us this lovely piece of art.
thanks Manishaji. Thanks also for telling about the rocks of himachal v/s india. yes Himachal has mostly earth and pebble mountains at this height. Solid rocks are normally not seen at low altitudes but this particular area has solid rocks and these can be seen travelling between Rani Tal and Kangra.
tks again for yr comments…Pong Dam bird sanctuary can be added with Masroor, as they are very near to each other
no closeups of murthis, that’s what I’d hoped to see
Yes .. you are right
clear photos of murtis are missing, but the statue of Ram, Laxman & Sita are not part of temple…these have been put later.
you can clik the link given by Nandan and there is one photo of murtis too
tks
Nice post. You are expert in finding new and unknown beautiful places to visit, sometime knowingly and sometime accidentally. Remember how we found Vaglamukhi Temple accidentally on our way back from Jawalaji once!!!!
ah yes pradeep… or we can say mother Baglamukhi found us ?
O !! come on Lala, it was not accidently, it was incidently or blessing of Mata Baglamukhi. Findings of SS can never be accidently.
Aur thheek thhaak, Turky men sub normal hai.
I happened to find this talk by Prof N. K. Singh on Masroor.
Video quality is not very good but Professor Singh covers a good deal of origins of this temple as well as some minor and detailed observation on various motifs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QQxUkdZ2CA&list=PLA38DA3417BD042F8