Almost in a trance after having the heavenly darshanam at the Ramanathaswamy Temple, Rameswaram, I was having a cat nap, when there was a knock at the door of my hotel room. It was Rajah, the cabbie, whom we had hired for our trip to Kanyakumari (also spelt as Kaniyakumari) and Madurai, The scheduled time for leaving was 7 p.m. Rajah had reported at 6.45 p.m. adjusted our luggage in the boot of the car and we were on our way to Kanyakumari, the southernmost tip of India, where the Bay of Bengal meets the Arabian Sea and the great Indian Ocean.
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While passing through the small market of Rameswaram, I told my friend Dorai that I needed two things urgently. Firstly, a hot water bottle to take care of my stiff back and secondly, some liquor to counter our travel tiredness. Rajah told us that Rameswaram being a small town, getting premium brands of liquor would be difficult and he suggested that we buy our groceries at Ramanathapuram, which is just 25 km from Rameswaram.
On a “कृष्ण पक्ष” (dark lunar fortnight) night with thick darkness all around the highway, Rajah stopped the car on the outskirts of Ramanathapuram outside a small road-side wine shop. The small shop had most of the premium brands of whiskey, my favorite drink. Dorai, normally a tea to-taller made an exception for the trip and picked up a bottle of lager beer. Adjoining the wine shop, there was a licensed bar (which we normally call “Ahaata” in the north). We had a couple of drinks and snacks and were ready for the 300 km journey. The single two-lane road up to Tirunelvelli was unbelievably good, with fluorescent road signs not only on the road, but also on both sides of the pavements, that made driving an absolute pleasure.
It was close to 9.00 p.m. and with hunger cramps, I told Rajah to stop at a good eating place in the next town en-route. We landed at a small time restaurant – Shanti Bhawan at Sayalgudi, a very small Panchayat town. The place looked clean, but the restaurant owner told us that the place was “full”. There were around 40 Ayappa Swami Devotees already seated and they were to be served first and our waiting time could be more than half an hour. While talking to the owner I was surprised to see the pictures of Kabaa, the holiest place for the Muslims along with some of the Hindu Gods. I asked him if it was a Hindu hotel. He said it was a Muslim Hotel. When I pointed to the wall hangings, he said “Sir, we worship all the Gods”. I was touched by his reply to the hilt and almost embraced him. I wish people all over the country had the similar feelings and then this divide between the religions would probably be non-existent. Thankfully the things appeared to be much better in Tamil Nadu as people of all the religions eat the same food, drink same toddy, speak Tamil and wear the same dress – lungi / dhoti and shirt.
Ishwar Allah tero naam
Outside the restaurant, a group of Swamis (devotees of Lord Ayappa) were standing. I was told that they were coming from somewhere in North Tamil Nadu (after a couple of drinks, one tends to forget the names sometimes) and were heading for Kanyakumari, on the way to Sabrimala, their final destination. They normally hire a bus and travel in groups for their 7-10 days journey from their home/s. As per the tradition, they visit all the important temples en-route, before reaching Sabrimala. I saw “swamis” all through my trip and had some interesting and educative conversations. I will write in details about them in my write up on visit to Madurai.
After a good meal, we were again on our way. It was around 10.00 in the night and with another 180 km to cover, I dozed off quickly and after a good nap, suddenly heard Dorai announcing that we were entering Kanyakumari. By the time I could compose myself, we were passing through a large fully lighted gate. It was past midnight and I noticed some hustle-bustle on the roads. The restaurant owners were shouting at the top of their voice that food was ready and I could see people having their meals at that hour of the night. The gloriously lit Church of “Our Lady of Ransom Church” was standing in its full glory on our left. Rajah told me that it was the 9th day of the “Car Festival’ and with X-Mas round the corner, Kanyakumari attracted a large number of tourists.
We had a booking at a small time Hotel Sun Rock. After a couple of knocks, the reception staff, sleeping on the sofas in the entrance area, opened the door and ushered us in. The Reception Manager quickly buttoned his jacket and with a smile said “welcome to Kanyakumari’. While we were settling in our room, the hotel staff told us that the sunrise time would be 5.30 A.M. and he would serve tea / coffee at 5.00 A.M.
I think before proceeding it would be pertinent to talk about the township and the district of Kanyakumari.
India is one of the few countries, which is blessed with the tallest mountain, the Himalayas in the north, the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal on the sides and the Indian Ocean touching its feet. Kanyakumari is India’s “Land’s End”, where the three large water bodies meet.
At the confluence of Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean
It would be interesting to note that despite being an area of a historically Tamil majority populace, Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin as called by the Britishers, owing to their pronunciation) was part of the princely state of Travancore (Thiruvithaamkoor) during the British rule prior to India’s independence. Later on the princely states of Travancore and Cochin were amalgamated, after India’s independence , to form the Travancore Cochin State. Thereafter four of the eight taluks of Trivandrum (Thiruvanthapuram) district were separated to form the new district of Kanyakumari during the formation of the new state of predominantly Malayali Kerala, and they were made a part of the Madras Presidency under recommendations from the States’ Reorganization Commission in 1956. The Presidency was later renamed as Tamil Nadu and Kanyakumari is one of the 32 districts in the state of Tamil Nadu. However, even now there is a substantial Malayali population in the Rameswaram District. Traditional Kerala Hindu communities like Nairs, Ezhavas and Pulayas and St.Thomas Christians belonging to Syro Malabar Catholic Church and Syro Malankara Catholic Church are residing in absolute harmony with the majority Tamil population in Kanyakumari District.
The Legend
This pilgrim center derives its name from the Virgin goddess Kanyakumari, to whom the temple is dedicated. According to a legend, goddess Parashakti, in one of her incarnations as Devi Kanya, did penance here to secure Shiva’s hand in marriage. As she could not achieve her ambition, she vowed to remain a Virgin (Kanya) ever after.
As per the popular belief, Kanya Devi, an incarnation of Goddess Parvati, was to marry Lord Shiva, however, since Shiva did not appear at the right time (the Shubha Mahurtham) and the wedding ceremony could never take place. It is believed that marriage could not take place, since it was deemed that she remain a virgin in order to save the world. This is why the rice and cereals entailed for the wedding remained uncooked. Till today, there is a popular custom of buying stones that look like rice and cereals. Local people believe that these stones are the remnants of the legendary wedding ceremony, which could not be held. And thus the princess Kanya Devi, remained a virgin goddess blessing the travelers and pilgrims.
The sunrise
Around 5 in the morning, the doorbell rang and the hotel staff advised us that it was the time to go to the beach to watch the sunrise. The piping hot cup of tea, gave us impetus to jump out of the bed and we were on the way to the beach which was less than five minutes’ walk from the hotel.
Sunrise at Arabian Sea
View before the sunrise at Bay of Bengal
Over hundred people had gathered at the beach at the time of our arrival. Hundreds of visitors were seen hanging on the roof tops of the nearby hotels. Around fifty “Ayappa Swami” devotees, clad in their black attire joined us. We settled ourselves at the stagnant boats placed on the embankment at the sea shore. We could see the Bay of Bengal in its full beauty at the early hours of the morning. The scheduled time for the sunrise was 5.30 a.m. All the eyes were focused on the sky. Suddenly there was a thick layer of clouds on the horizon. A streak of light raised our hopes, which were dashed by another arrival of clouds. We waited for around half an hour for the things to settle down. The dawn had already broken and to our disappointment, we missed the spectacular view of the sunrise.
View before the sunrise
Gathering at the sunrise at Kanyakumari
It would be pertinent to add that Kanyakumari enchants visitors with its spectacular views, especially at sunrise and sunset. The most astonishing of these occurs on Chaitra Purnima (the full moon in the month of April), when both sunset and moonrise occur at the same time.
View of Vivekananda Rock Memorial and statue of Thiruvalluvar
On our way back to the hotel, we had an enthralling experience. From the shore where the fishing boats were moored, we had a glimpse of the three towering spires of this off-white Gothic structure with a distinct Portuguese feel. This is The Church of Our Lady of Ransom, a 100-year-old building dedicated to Mother Mary, about which I would talk in the later part of the story.
After refreshing ourselves, we came to “Shri Punjabi Dhaba”, which is known for its mouth-watering Punjabi food (we have been having South Indian food all through and hence this preference). The “Paranthas – aloo, paneer and gobhi, served with fresh curd and butter, were extremely well prepared.
Since the Bhagavathy Amman Temple closes at 11 a.m., Dorai suggested that we have “darshanams” at the temple, prior to standing in the queue heading for dockyard for catching a boat for Vivekananda Memorial.
Sri Bhagavathi Amman temple
Devi Kanya Kumari is Shree Bhagavathy in the form of an adolescent girl child. She is popularly known as
“Bhagavathy” (Durga) or Devi and also known by several other names, including Kanya Devi, Kanyakumari, Shree Bhadrakali or Shree Baala. She is believed to be the “kashta-nivaark” (the one who relieves the devotees of all the problems). It is believed that sage Parshurama performed the consecration of the temple.
It would be interesting to note that under instructions from his guru, Shri Ramakrishna Paramahansa, Swami Vivekanand came here to seek the blessings of Devi in December 1892, as Devi is the goddess of “sanyasa”. It is believed that at this location, Swamiji decided to embark the Missionary work to a higher level of action rather than being passive like the usual “sanyasis”. Two of the other disciples of Shri Ramakrishna Paramahansa, Swami Brahamananda and Swami Nirmalananda and Mahatma Gandhi are also reported to have worshipped in this temple.
Tour of the temple
After passing through the massive gate, we removed our shoes at the shoe stand, deposited our mobile phones, cameras and I-pad with the security office (no photography is allowed inside the temple), bought tickets for “special darshanams’, which entitle “darshanams” on a fast track basis. You still have to pass through long circuitous barricades to reach closer to the sanctum sanctorum. We reached a point where the queues for the “general” and “special” darshanams merge. The huge notification announced that all the male folks remove their shirts and other chest garments and enter the temple bare-chested. The devotees were seen pouring oil in the large sized lamp called “akhand jyoti”. Passing through a waiting area, we entered the sanctum sanctorum. I just can’t define the aura and radiance I felt entering the temple. Fortunately in the sanctum sanctorum we were not pushed or man-handled by anyone (like in many other temples). The vibrations standing in front of the deity of the goddess are simply heavenly. For a moment I felt that the Devi was standing right in front of me. My eyes shut automatically and in some sort of a trance, I found myself saying a small prayer. One of the priests gave me prasadam of vibhuti and to my wife, sindoor and asked us to keep moving.
It took me sometime to settle myself after the darshanams. The exit doors lead us to the security office where he had deposited our belongings.The temple is located at the sea shore from where the Vivekananda Memorial is clearly visible.
At Bhagavathy Temple
The ferry journey to the Vivekananda Rock Memorial.
The dockyard for ferry to the Vivekananda Rock Memorial is just at a stone’s throw from the temple. The queue for buying tickets to the ferry, which had its tail close to the Punjabi Dhaba at the time of our breakfast, appeared to be much shorter now. Our joy, however, was short lived, when we observed that we had to walk for around half a km long circuitous queue to reach the ticket window. The ticket for the ferry is Rs. 34 per person and there is another counter selling tickets for Rs. 169 each, if you don’t want the hassle of long and tiresome wait in the queues. I saw a good looking girl on crutches, barely able to walk being helped by one of the shipping company’s staff in obtaining the ticket.
You still have to buy a ticket of Rs. 20 each to enter the memorial, which is sold close to the entrance of the jetty. The state owned company runs only 2-3 ferries at a time, which keep on ferrying the passengers to the memorial and bringing them back. The same boat carries the next lot of passengers. So be prepared to stand in long queues again. Finally our turn for the boat journey came. We were made to wear the life jackets hurriedly and after a 15 minutes ride we reached the shore.
Boat is ready for departure to Rock Memorial
As the memorial is located on a rock, we had to climb a little to reach the reception office, where we were ushered to a small room, where we were told the history of the memorial.
The speaker, a Bengali looking gentleman, told us that the Parashakti (Devi) performed her austerities on this rock, which is as big as a small island. On this rock one can clearly see the “Sri Pada Parai”, a raised spot in the shape of a footprint. This has been enshrined within a temple. Swami Vivekananda after two years of travelling the width and breadth of India, reached Kanyakumari and he spent December 25 to December 27, 1892 in meditation, before proceeding for America to participate in the Conference of World’s religions to spread the Vedanta philosophy to the West.
The memorial was built in 1970 by the Vivekananda Rock Memorial Society in honor of the visit of Swami Vivekananda to Shripada Parai (Padam means feet and Parai – rock). The memorial stands on a rock located about 500 meters east off mainland, Kanyakumari. It is believed that he meditated on the rock, attained enlightenment and henceforth became a reformer.
Swami Vivekananda Rock Memorial Mandap
The memorial consists of two main structures, the Vivekananda Mandapam and the Shripada Mandapam. A meditation hall (Dhyana Mandapam) is also attached to the memorial for visitors to meditate. The design of the mandapa incorporates different styles of temple architecture from all over India.
The Shripadha Mandapam is a square hall consisting of the Garbha Graham (The sanctum sanctorum), the Inner Prakaram, The Outer Prakaram and the Outer Platform.
The architectural beauty of the mandapams is that both the Mandapams are so designed that the vision of Vivekananda in the statue would be seen direct towards the Shripadam.
We visited the Dhyana Mandapam, which is a large hall, with chairs in the back and sitting place in the front, where devotees sit and meditate. The light in the hall is almost non-existent. On the rear wall one can see a large inscription of “aum”. The constant chanting of “aum” in a very low pre-recorded melodious voice simply transcends you to a different world. I stayed there for around half an hour in total peace and tranquility.
Just outside the Dhyana Mandapam there is a huge plaque on the wall depicting the complete profile of Swami Vivekananda and the Vivekananda Rock Memorial, which makes a very interesting and educative reading.
Profile of Swami Vivekananda
There is a small book shop in the close vicinity selling books written by Swami Vivekananda and other publications of Rama Krishna Mission. Small souvenirs, calendars and diaries are also available here.
The memorial tour was completed in an hour and half and we were back to the long queues for the ferry ride back to the mainland.
Tamil poet Thiruvalluvar
Town’s view from the Rock Memorial
Impressed by the quality of food and reasonable prices at “Shri Punjabi Dhaba”, we decided to go back there for lunch. The restaurant, surprisingly, is not run by any punjabi family, but by a Rajasthani gentleman called, Suresh Purohit. He hails from Jodhpur and came to Kanyakumari many years back and found it interesting to start his own enterprise. He started a small restaurant along with his elder brother – Geeta Bhawan, which served only “Thali meal”. His brother opened an open air restaurant and considering the demand for the punjabi food, he started the Punjabi Dhaba, which is doing a roaring business now.
Our Lady of Ransom Church
Though the three towering spires of this Gothic structure are clearly visible from the window of my hotel room, it is a good ten minutes’ walk to reach the edifice.
This truly beautiful 153 foot high structure is around 100 years old and looks astonishingly attractive against the molten-blue noon sky. As you move closer to the church, you observe that the central tower is crowned with a cross of pure gold. But once you are inside the church, you are even more surprised – there are no pews (rows of benches) which are normally found in most of the churches. When you raise your eyes to the altar, you are totally overwhelmed – A beautiful idol of Virgin Mary, clad in a sari – like in most the churches in South India, with a small Cross on the altar, stands tall, blessing you. The astounding beauty is accentuated by multi-hued colorful light patterns thrown by the stained glass windows on the bare floor.
Our Lady of Ransom Church – Kind Courtesy Wikipedia
Seeing the bare floor, the first instinct is whether this church is functional! Yes sir, it very much is. Church holds mass regularly on the floor made of sand. Since the parish here predominantly comprise of local fishing folks, mass is always held in the regional language – Tamil.
Above video is a link from the official website of the church – http://ransomchurchkanyakumari.org
Please do visit the website for any further information.
Before leaving Kanyakumari, I have a very humble suggestion to make – please spare two days for visiting the other places of great interest, in and around Kanyakumari. These include, the sangam where Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean meet, Gandhi Memorial, the sunset at Arabian Sea, Vivekanandapuram maintained by Ramakrishna Mission, Thiruvalluvar Statue dedicated to the greatest Tamil poet, saint and philosopher, Padmanabhapuram Palace, the palatial residence of the rulers of Travancore (one hour drive from Kanyakumari) and of course the Kovalam Beach (located at a distance of 80 km from Kanyakumari – spend a night there).
Well, It’s nearing 4.00 p.m. – time for us to head for Madurai, widely known for one of the most beautiful temples in the world – The Meenakshi Temple, about which I will write in the next post.
Meanwhile, have a great time and May God bless you all.
Hi Ram Dhall ji
Read your interesting post of Rameshwaram to Kanyakumari. Detailed Description of the places like Bhagwati Amman Temple, Swami Vivekanand Memorial, Our Lady of Ransom Church etc. are very useful for future traveler of the place. Photographs are very nice specially the sunrise clicks.
Thank you for sharing your experiences on GHUMAKKAR.
Thank you Munesh for your kind words.
A very Ram-style post with enough details of about everything in and around Kanyakumari. I somehow wonder that when we teach young kids about a place, its history and its significance, then would it make more sense to tell them in a story format, just like above.
Never been there but almost feel like knowing most of it. Thank you Ram. Not only traveling such distances (with or without indulgence) but making the effort to write about them in this detail, needs a lot of perseverance and hard work and you inspire us by showing the way.
Look fwd to Madurai.
Thank you Nandan for your kind and motivating words. I always make a very humble effort to express my thoughts. If the readers appreciate my effort, it’s simply a blessijng for me and gives me impetus to endeavour to do better.
God bless you.
The way you include small things like Punjabi dhaba and presence of Ayappa Swami devotees in your post makes me feel that i was there with you step by step. Bur i tell you that missing sunset at kanyakumari means a lot. Thanks for giving me a chance to live my memories. Regards.
SK Saxena
Thank you Saxena Sahib for liking the post. The owner of Punjabi Dhaba, the Ayappa Swami devotees,Rajah the cabbie, the owner of muslim restaurant, the girl on crutches barely able to take a step – all are real characters and you can not help talking about them. These people are the soul of the story, though history and facts about the destination are equally important.
Warm regards
bahut sundar aur sajeev varnan .badhai
Bahut Bahut Dhanyavaad Baheti Sahib. Aapko aalekh pasand aaya, yeh mere liye bahut badi baat hai.
Kya baat hai Dhall saheb… beautiful naration and equally beautiful fotos. transit between pure materialism(read fatigue remover)… to spirituality was very interesting…
Your story gave a new life to normally sleeping Ghumakkar.com :P
Thanks SS. You are always a source of inspiration for simple persons like me. I will have to work harder to ensure that my forthcoming posts are to your satisfaction.
Warm regards and God’s blessings.
dear ram dhall ji,
enjoyed the great story of your trip narrated in very simple but very inspiring, touching and effective manner. having known you personally it was all the more interesting to go through as it brings out the many facets of your personality which i have closely seen and observed over the past many decades.
aum namah sivaya
rajiv malik
Rajiv ji,
Thanks for your kind and motivational word. Getting such a commendation from a person of your calibre is an honour.
Look forward to meeting you.
Warm regards and God’s blessings.
Ram Ji,
Thank You for this wonderful post filled with information. Kanyakumari is the one place which I have been craving to visit since the last couple of years. But the distance of the place from Kolkata becomes a hindrance.
Thanks Sharmistha for liking the post.
Dear Ram
The article is very nice.
It is very informative – your advice to the new travellers to these places are very useful & they can certainly save time & money if they have read this article.
The pictures posted are very natural & lively
Anyone reading the article & seeing the pictures would feel as if he is there in Kanniyakumari
Your article is very great & your views regarding the people around here are very well said.(unity in diversity).
Please keep up the good work.
Dorai,
Thanks for liking the post and for your inspirational words. Needless to say that this trip would never have fructified, but for your initiative, support and effort.
God bless you.
Dear Sir,
As usual very informative post !
Dear Ram Sir,
Very beautiful presentation of the cute little heavenly place. I visited there in 2000 on 2nd October and had the unusual glimpse of sun rays intruding through the roof top opening, on the stage inside Gandhi memorial. Rightly said, its worth atleast two days or even more to enjoy the serene beauty. I remember skidding down the slippery rocky shores at the most turbulent sangam, which is actually the farthest tip of our peninsula. Visiting Kovalam is better to plan while a stay in Trivanduram, quite close.
Sir, is it even now required to reach out Trivandram or Rameshwaram only via Madurai? We infact unwillingly had to go Madurai thrice. Once on way from Coimbatore to Trivandram then from Trivandram to Kanyakumari and again while from Kanyakumari to Rameshwaram. The coastal road was not in use then.
Also, just for information, is the place still very quite and sparse? We stayed there for 3 days and enjoyed every bit by roaming around on hired bicycles.
The sight of deities of all religions in hotels and restaurants were a common sight in Kerala too and similar were the type of food found in such hotels. No taboos maintained on non-veg cuisines as we found 14 years back. Potatoes were hard to find even in Dosas. No potato chips, instead coconut and banana chips greeted except in branded packs. Is it the same till now?
Regards
Ajay
Dear Ajay ji,
On the onset my sincere apologies for the delayed response. I have been indisposed for the last 10 days and was almost “off-colour”
The entire south is awe-inspiring and Kanyakumari is simply mesmerizing. Kanyakumari is a quiet place, except in the months of November and December, owing to the large influx of tourists during the X-Mas season and the Ayappa Devotees, who pass through this cute little place on the way to Sabrimala.
You need not go to Madurai for going to Kanyakumari from Rameswaram. The coastal road now is extremely well maintained. Likewise for going to Trivandrum, trains like Duronto, Kerala Express and Rajdhani take a detour from Coimbatore.
Yes, you are right, the potatoes do not seem to be very popular with the South-Indian cuisine. Banana chips are anyway, a better bet.
arm regards and God’s blessings.
Fantastic description of the place. I have been lucky being there recently but found many new facts from this post which i missed to learn there. Very well narrated!
Dhyana Mandapam was really good and we also spent few minutes there. I was very relaxing.
Look forward to Madurai post.
Aditya,
Thanks for liking the post. Besides the “Dhyana Mandapam” the Mandapam with Swamiji’s life-like statue are simply mesmerizing. It’s well worth a visit second time.
Great narrative as always! I enjoyed the journey throughout and feel i’ve been to places that we’d missed out on our trip.
The feeling that you are at one end of the country, watching the confluence is just out of this world!
Aptly pointed out, one should spend atleast full 24 hrs in Kanyakumari. Both the sunset and sunrise are spectacular and offer a different experience. Kovalam is also interesting with so many foreigners, an ‘actual’ beach and amazing sea food.
Thanks for the writeup. :)
Thanks for liking the post.
Hi Ram Sir,
An engrossing and wholesome account of Indias Lands End. I did not know Kanyakumari is as spiritual destination as Rameshwaram.
I remember waking up one early morning in Vishakhapatnam hoping to see my first sun rise over the sea. But the clouds disappointed and did not relent maybe this time at Kanyakumari!
I can relate to the vibrations you felt in front of the deity from my recent travels. I felt it in temples of Maharashtra where it seemed as if the deity was looking directly at me. Last week I was at Salim Chistis dargah in Fatehpuri Sikri and experienced an incredibly overwhelming feeling as I stepped inside.
Great post about the Last Post of India. Will love to visit the area and spend few idyllic days here.
Nirdesh Babu,
Maa Saraswati seem to be very kind to you. Not only your posts, the comments on fellow-writers’ posts also, invariably leave a seal of “brilliance”, a rarity.
May God be with you, always.
It’s an enriching experience to read your posts irrespective of time it has been written; it always has a ‘complete’ feel about it. I’ve been to Kanyakumari sometime in the late 80s when the Thiruvalluvar statue was yet to come up but I remember the sunrise very well. Wonderful place.
beautiful and very descriptive post.