Matheran Musings

Disclaimer: This post excludes the following travelers:
1. Elder people- No age limit specified. Decide yourself.
2. Traveler with babies- If they find it difficult to carry babies on shoulders or in baby bags.
3. Honeymooners- I understand. It is not expected of them to pay attention anywhere else.

Well there are ten things to do in Matheran but in two different ways. I will share both ways and then we can choose.



    Style ONE:

I/we/you can do the following:

1.Wear a crisp starched cotton Saree, skirt and like, hold it up to knees to keep it away from the all pervading red earth.(Remember! elders are already excused.)
2.Wear a flowing Dupatta, voluminous Anarkali, hang a leather purse, clutch, combine it with delicate pumps or rustic kolhapuris, and then give a puzzled look at the red earth.
3.If a male, wear a button-down shirt, crisp light beige trouser, shining tan colored leather shoes and then do the same: look puzzled at the red earth.
4.Let us give the finishing touches with perfumes, lipstick and a final gloss on shoes.
5.Now that I/we/you are ready, hire a hand cart or a pony, curse the only pedestrian only hill station, take the list of viewpoints out, haggle with the cart-man or horseman about which points he would cover in a day, and mount upon.
6.Tick all the viewpoints one by one, while sipping chai at one point, cold drink at another, samosa at yet another and so on. Kindly ignore the guavas. These are calorie rich fruits, suitable only for the poor traveler on foot.
7.It is evening now. Pay the cart-man/horseman, scurry to an eatery and realize that there is not much in Matheran to do. Also realize that I/we/you have not bargained properly with the cart-man/horseman.
8.Now that I/we/you have provided more energy to body than needed, head straight to the bazar. No travel experience is complete without shopping.
9.Look for the Chapplas, camel-leather bags, sweaters, jewelries. These are the local specialty of Matheran.
10.Now Matheran seems a good place to visit. Time to go back to hotel and sleep well.



    Style TWO:

1.Wear some comfortable clothes and shoes and just wander.
2.Wander to all or any of the view points or to none, but wander.
3.Wander on the narrow-gauge railway treks.
4.Wander and stop to watch locals using catapult to chase the monkeys away.
5.Wander and find that monkeys are still there.
6.Wander and stumble upon old Villas.
7.Wander to get your shoes colored red.
8.Wander and find a Parsi Kabristan.
9.Wander and aspire that you would be as fit as the old Parsi people, walking on the Matheran mud-paths.
10.Wander, wander, and just wander. I/we/you find that Matheran is a wonderful place.



Hope You fit yourself in one of these two ways. Whichever way you decide, reach to the Sunset point in Matheran.


We have been wandering here and there since morning instead of taking any interest in any viewpoint. Our shoes, sacks and tresses are tinged in red of the Matheran earth. But I do want to watch sunset. So sunset point is the destination now.

Wandering in the wild Matheran

“Kids! Come back. Sun is getting late. It has to go, else Americans will bomb us that we kept the sun for more time than our fair share.” I try this one after failing to keep them on the trek to sunset point.

“Will it Mamma?” younger one asks, having found, well, heard something more interesting than their adventurous detours in woods.

“It may. If sun gets late, President’s kids will keep on sleeping and they will miss the school bus. Then the president will have to drop them. Then he will be late for the office. He will send the spies to find out who delayed the sun. They will find that sun was waiting for two kids who had promised that they would come to say goodbye.”

Kids chuckle and follow me, expanding the story all the time, and laughter is tired of our ‘more than reasonable’ use of her. The eldest male in the group feels a proud husband for a change from feeling proud father all the time.
We march ahead to the sunset view point.

It looks we have arrived somewhere else. An assembly of horses is going on and the horseman are waiting for the nobles of this assembly. I do not want to be an uninvited guest and ask one horseman.

“Where is the sunset point?”

“Here madam here.” He points to the way beyond the assembly.

I double check it and herd my family around the ‘noble group’ to reach the ‘way’.


Aha! This must be the sunset point. Where else can you find so many people if not at a view point? Certainly not on the mud treks, dirtying their leather boots, Kolhapuris, peep toes and stilettos?

Some of these (people, not horses) are near the juice stalls, fruit stalls, chai wallas and many at cold-drink wallas. They are hungry by now, having ridden upon the horses all the day, galloping from one view point to another. I realize, horse riding must be an energy consuming job.

There is a barricade at the brink of the ‘sunset point’ hill, lest people fall in the valley, mad by the red in the sky. There is ample space to enjoy the sunset for all: men, women, children, horses and monkeys. Everyone has more or less a chance of finding a good corner to sit but in solitude. It so happens that monkeys decide to practice acrobatics at the barricade and thus occupy the prime position, sending all the humans back.

Humans for sure have more mind and climb atop all the small hillocks to get the ‘best’ view. Poor horses! They are tired of carrying the living load for the whole day and bored of seeing the sunset every evening; they just stand at one place together like gentlemen.

Prime Viewers

Prime Viewers

My kids too want to climb up a hillock so we choose one that by any chance will not topple down in the valley. And it has the added advantage of overlooking the horse assembly besides the valley view.

Sun, who has perfected its part of this daily theater, now takes the center stage between two distant hills. Lighting arrangement is continuously changing now, turning to red and orange, in different tonal settings.

Sun in the lead role.

Sun in the lead role.

One gentleman on a hillock feels so happy by this performance that he takes out a biscuit packet and throws it to the monkeys. A troop of monkeys arrive at the hillock and displace all its occupants. Now the monkeys bicker and the people quibble.

The prize distribution.

The prize distribution.

Out of the earshot of this battleground, Sun is rendering the last lines of its role, basking in soothing deep orange-red light.

Soothing. Even for horses!

Soothing. Even for horses!

The ‘click-click-click’ reverberate from the hills to the valleys. This affects the horses deeply. Many raise the tail. The sound of cascading water and thump of droppings resonate in the atmosphere. An aromatic breeze fills the hills and lingers on.

The sun is unable to bear this display of affection and decides to disappear quickly. Suddenly I smell the red earth and find that my palms have stood up to the moment to protect my nostrils to let my eyes enjoy the splash of red-orange colour that sun has thrown behind.

Watching the sunset turns out to be a laborious work for people. After all, it is no an easy thing to throw the sun from here to the USA. Many throng to the food stalls and others mount on their horses. Monkeys now are not interested in the valley anymore and give company to the hungry people. Everyone at once wants his or her ordered food. The vendors appoint a small battalion armed with a stick and a catapult. All enjoy their food amidst the heavy protection.

The Great Matheran Sunset is over.


  • Matheran looked beautiful through your lens and from your nicely described story, an interesting story, I must say. Leave that guava for poor traveler like me. Those who opt to wear flowing Dupatta please leave some dust on the way for the shoes of a wanderer to become red. Wanderer loves to take that pain for sunrise and sunset views. So America, you can wait a little if we reach late at the point, because it is India and not Iraq. :)

    And lastly I would love to read the continuing part soon, Jaishree!


    • jaishree says:

      Thanks Anupam for reading and liking the post. You made my sentences much more beautiful.
      The post was stand alone, though there is lot to write about Matheran

      Sorry for the dealy in replying.

  • anjan das says:

    superb story telling … like your option very much… awesome photograph and 1st photo really describe you… just a query .. are train running with those track :) .. or those are just showpiece now….

  • Avtar Singh says:

    Hi Jaishree ji

    Very beautifully composed post, one must admit.

    When I read Style Two ( from point 1 to 10 of course!) found it’s a sheer a piece of poetry!

    Reading this gives me enough pleasure like reading a fiction setting in the background of sun setting!

    Wow!!! for the pics… all are amazing.

    Thanx once again for writing this in a very different style. Your style of weaving the story is just awesome… :)

  • Ashok Sharma says:

    interesting narrative.nice pics.

  • Nandan Jha says:

    Someone said something like, seeing the same place differently. I would choose both, all the time so as to be in complete harmony of local nuances. If I prefer to walk, I would do that along side my muse who may choose to take the pony. And If I prefer to have that road-side paav-bhaaji then I would do it discreetly , incase it bothers my co-traveler. :-) Of course, feeding biscuits to monkeys and bread to ducks in a lake is blasphemy, I don’t know why people do that.

    The watermark on photos is not looking elegant.

    Thank you Jaishree for taking us to Matheran in your own style. Hopefully I find myself there in my blue crocs going red and would remember you.

  • Jaishree says:

    I imagined you walking and Smita on the pony and guess what I pictured? Do you remeber Shashi Kappor and Sadhna/Nanda on the pony in the song ‘ek tha gul aur ek thi bulbul’. I laughed, mot muted, with full volume.

    Watermark is looking worse here because the captions are also in the frame and thus cause double distraction.

    Why eat the Vada discreetly? If I reserve the right to express what I felt, you also have the right to do how you feel.

    On a sober note, I do have a preference for walking but I never felt otherwise for people not on two legs. But in Matheran, I did feel it. Matheran is a very small place and all the view points are more or less same. Every hill station has some views and lake and like. But Matheran was different in that it was pedestrian only place, woods were lovelier than the view points and I would any day say that instead of ticking all the view points in Matheran, expereience the Matheran for its uniqueness.

    And I say it with my experience, we stayed there for four days and explored every nook and corner.

  • Interesting style of story telling Jaishree! Enjoyed. Pictures are very good too.

    Nice to know about your family website as well from photos watermarks.

  • Divya says:

    What is the price (on average) for an hours horse ride of sight seeing?

  • Patrick Jones says:

    Glad to have you back, Jay. This morning I came to know that it has to be pronounced ‘wonder’ and not ‘wander’ as I used to. Your post made me practice it over and over again :-)
    Splendid post, fab sunset pics. Especially liked the aroma of cascade :-D

    • Jaishree says:

      Thanks Patrick for praising in the ‘spirit’of the article. This post is among a few of mine that are closest to my heart. Loved that it touched the reader’s heart also.

  • sriyanka chatterjee says:

    I had visited Matheran during my childhood. I remember that out hotel was located close by the cemetery. Learned from your log that it’s a parsi cemetery . I also remember the one tree hill point , a lake and the horses galloping over red earth. Besides , the toy train ride was also fun. Thanks for refreshing my memories. A great style of narration and yes, I also detest going around in a car or any other transport in a new place and not going getting a feel of the place.

    • Jaishree says:

      Sharing is reliving the moments- both for the writer and for the reader. Yes, the toy train only enhances the experience and charm of Matheran. Thanks Sriyanka for liking the post.

  • Jatinder Sethi says:

    Having been to the place umpteen times(not old then),never realized the beauty of Sun set between the hills,or the clip clop of the horses, that your Poetic laptop has woken up the urge to read TSELLIOT again. great Post,dear

    • Jaishree says:

      What can I say…. I send my Sadar Pranam. And I will never forget that this post made you remember Elliot again. Can there be any bigger compliment for a casual writer !!

  • Nandan Jha says:

    This is an old story and I only see the new comments. I can not imagine that there were no comments from the past.

  • Debjit Chakraborty says:

    Love the way you described the place. Real uniquely woven.

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