By Vipin

Bijli Mahadev

Bijli Mahadev, just the name is enough to inspire you to take this journey to one of the holiest shrine of Lord Shiva as it happened with me. I heard about this place from one of my friend (Praveen) who stays in Kullu and as always approached my e-friend (Google) to gather more information about this place, prepared a program and finalized the dates.

I would call this law of attraction that just few days before the trip, I was browsing through the photos of the wedding of one of my friend (Bali) who works in Mandi. I thought it would be good if I could visit him and if he could come along since this was on a weekend. While I was thinking about this, I got a call from one of my friend (Rajesh) who had also attended Baliâ€™s wedding with me at his place (Sujanpur Tira) and I was pleasantly surprised to know the reason for his call.

He actually phoned me to discuss a short outing and a small re-union with old friends as he was going to get married soon (now happily married) and wanted to enjoy his last few days of bachelorhood with his friends. When I told him that I have already planned a short trip to Himachal and to see Bali, he readily agreed to come along. His perfect timing worked well so far.

So following our original plan to cover Bijli Mahadev, Rewalsar Lake, Shikari Devi, Kamru Nag Lake, Karsog, Tattapani, we reached Kullu on the morning of 30 July’11. Since there were regular buses plying on this route, it allowed us some time to freshen up and to have a quick breakfast. Later we took a mini bus till a village nearby the shrine from where it is just 2.8 km soft trek passing through some of the villages amongst the beautiful deodar forest and offering excellent views of the valley and river Beas.

A beautiful setting

Beautiful Kullu Valley across Beas River through deodar trees

Enchanting Bhunter Valley with meandering Beas

Though it was not a tough climb, but it really turned out to be so as I saw Rajesh panting just after climbing merely 10 – 15 steps. By now, I could understand that it will really be difficult to get on the top. But to my surprise, after walking a few more steps Rajesh uprightly refused to walk any further due to fatigue and breathing problem and asked me to go alone. Since this was our first pilgrimage on this trip, I really wanted him to go up with me and admire the nature’s beauty from the shrine. By Lord’s grace, I could manage to keep him motivated to move ahead and kept encouraging him all the way till the main shrine.

Delighted to find this open area near the temple with some camps (for mealsovernight stay). Some muddy ponds, grazing horses, blue sky with plane like cloud, flying bird, trees

Gateway to the temple

Swargarohini, path leading to the heavenly abode of Lord Shiva

An open area was an indication that we were nearing the temple and I could anticipate a victorious smile on the face of Rajesh. It was as if he had conquered a fort (it was no less than that for him), he was such a delighted soul, completely recharged and happy to breathe under the open sky with enchanting views of the valley.

Look at the happiness on the face of Rajesh as initially he was in pain when we started climbing up

The temple is one of the most sacred in the entire valley and is frequented by the locals as well as other travelers from other parts of the country. As per a popular belief, every year the lightening (Bijli) strikes the shaft near the temple and breaksÂ the lingamÂ into pieces (which symbolises that Lord Shiva absorbs all the sufferings/dangers falling onto the world upon him).

Sanctum sanctorum with the Shiva Lingam. Jai Bijli Mahadev!!!

TheÂ lingamÂ is later supposedly restored by the temple priest using butter.Â After paying visit at the holy shrine, we started exploring the surroundings of the temple. The initial gateway to the temple (around 100 meter before the temple) gives a feeling as if one is entering into a heavenly abode.

Just outside the temple are a bunch of idols of the divine bull Nandi, the mount of Lord Shiva with a long pole in between where the lightening supposedly strikes. Sitting on the surrounding slopes and enjoying the mesmerizing views of the valley is an experience one can never forget, a perfect setting for spending peaceful time with nature. The place just below the temple is a perfect spot for picnickers and family gatherings with a few shops offering eatables.

Nandi, the divine bull (mount of Lord Shiva) guarding and facing the temple

Tall pole facing the temple (the lightening strikes this pole)

Family gatherings on the slopes facing valley

A family at the shrine

Well, after visiting the holy shrine and enjoying the nature’s bounty, it was now time to bid adieu to this heavenly place. The mouth-watering apple orchards on the way whet our appetite, so we had CholeÂ with butter bread inÂ Kullu and moved on to Mandi for overnight stay at Bali’s place.

Apart from the shrine, there were two more interesting things that caught our attention on our way to Kullu. First was Pandoh Dam (19 km from Mandi) which gives you two different flavours at the same time, one very wild and fascinating (if you are lucky enough to witness water flowing out of the dam, especially during monsoons) and other very calm, quiet and serene (on the other side of the dam).

Serene Beas at Pandoh Dam

Wild beauties on the way back

The second was 2.8 km long tunnel at Aut as this was the first time I had entered into such a long tunnel, the experience was really amazing. We reached Mandi late evening, had our dinner, discussed the next dayâ€™s program and went to sleep. Before sleeping, I had however some doubts about rest of the trip after our experience this morning since some of the places in this trip required a lot of trekking, but we were all positive about it and were looking forward to some more adventure that had just begun!!!

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Vipin

Love jungles, mountains, lakes, rivers, flowers, animals (including social animals). In one word, i'm a 'junglee' and my name approves of this. Wandering in the hills energises and refreshes me, gives me an opportunity to discover and understand myself......

37 Comments

manu prakash tyagi says:

March 28, 2012 at 4:21 pm

बहुत ही अच्छी पोस्ट विपिन जी , बडे ही सुगठित तरीके से लिखी हुई ………फोटो बडे ही कमाल के है जो किसी को भी वहां जाने के लिये प्रेरित कर दें ……………कमाल को लेख और यात्रा …………सुरंग के बारे में मेरे भी यही विचार थे जब तक मैने कश्मीर की जवाहर सुरंग नही देखी थी …………..धन्यवाद इस लेख के लिये

Reply
- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 7:16 pm
  
  उत्साहवर्धन के लिए शुक्रिया मनु भाई. क्या जवाहर सुरंग औत सुरंग से लम्बी या ज्यादा रोमांचक है? विकिपीडिया पर इसकी लम्बाई २.५ किलोमीटर है, जबकि औत सुरंग की लम्बाई लगभग २.८ किलोमीटर है.
  
  Reply
  - manu prakash tyagi says:
    
    March 30, 2012 at 7:59 pm
    
    बात सिर्फ लम्बाई की नही है विपिन जी , जवाहर सुरंग दो जगहो जम्मू और कश्मीर को बांटती है और सिर्फ सीमा ही नही बांटती जवाहर सुरंग पार करके जैसे ही आप कश्मीर की ओर पहुंचते हैं ठंड शुरू हो जाती है जो कि सुरंग के ठीक पहले तेज धूप और गर्मी हो तो भी
    
    Reply
    - Vipin says:
      
      March 30, 2012 at 8:48 pm
      
      वाकई रोचक जानकारी मनु भाई………
      
      Reply
    - Neeraj Jat says:
      
      March 30, 2012 at 11:07 pm
      
      किसी जमाने में जवाहर सुरंग भारत की सबसे लम्बी सडक सुरंग हुआ करती थी, लेकिन अब यह दर्जा औट सुरंग पर चला गया है।
      बाकी जो बात जवाहर सुरंग में है वो औट सुरंग में नहीं। जवाहर सुरंग को पार करते ही एक नई दुनिया, नई संस्कृति सामने आती है। वादी ए कश्मीर सामने आ जाती है।
      
      Reply
Vishal Rathod says:

March 28, 2012 at 5:56 pm

Wow Vipin.

This is excellent post . Bijli Mahadeva is first time heard anything . Very good…………….
I didn’t understand one thing , can you explain?
You said that lightening strucks pole ( lingam ) and it breaks in to pieces and then is restored by butter from a priest. First of all butter have such adhesive properties that it can stick together this much big pole . I don’t understand this .OR. This is a miracle …………………

Secondly the pictures are very beautiful and good job done on motivating Rajesh .Congratulate him from my side on achieving this feat…………One thing I tell you if you have faith in Lord whatever may be the difficulties he will take you…………………..

Reply
- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 7:22 pm
  
  Vishal bhai, thank you for liking the post. You are true, faith can help you surpass any difficulty. Rest Neeraj has already replied to your query.
  
  Reply
Nandan Jha says:

March 28, 2012 at 6:04 pm

I think this is a FOG (First on Ghumakkar).

How long does it take from Kullu if one is having his own car to reach the base-camp ? I am guessing that the trek (up and down) and time at Temple would be about 3 hours in total, at max.

And just curious on the height/length of the pole. And one more question (sorry) , is the lightning thing a regular phenomenon ?

Thank you very much for taking us there. Look fwd to know more about your Day 2 plans/excursions.

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- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:15 pm
  
  Thanks Nandan ji, I don’t remember the timing to reach the base camp. Faint memory says it was around 2 hours. It took us around 2 hours to reach up, spent another 2 hours at there and took only 1 hour to come down, so total 5 hours in our case.
  
  Could not measure the length of the pole :). It was so long that i had to bend to take the full photo. As Neeraj mentioned, it’s not been happening for the last 2 years on the pole. Rest of the stories shall follow shortly…
  
  Reply
VJ SHARMA says:

March 28, 2012 at 6:21 pm

Vipin – Thanks for sharing nice details about Bijli Mahadev.

I have been to this place many times, this always remain on the top of our list of places we explore during Kullu/Manali visit. Lovely views of Manikaran, Bhuntar and Kullu Valleys.

Just to add, the place is accessible through a rough road which connects Bijli Mahadev with Naggar. Most of the times, this road is inaccessible due to bad weather conditions. Some of the old photographs of Bijli Mahadev can be checked at – http://phototravelings.blogspot.com/2010/08/wonderful-trekking-experience-of-bijli_16.html

+ VJ

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- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:24 pm
  
  Thanks for sharing alternate route info, seems more interesting. Shall try this the next time. How much is the distance from the roadside to the shrine through this way & are buses available till road-head? Your photos are great.
  
  Reply
Harish Bhatt says:

March 28, 2012 at 6:44 pm

Excellent post Vipin…..The pictures are very nice…Keep writing…

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- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:25 pm
  
  Thanks for your encouraging words, Bhatt saheb.
  
  Reply
Jatdevta Sandeep panwar says:

March 28, 2012 at 6:54 pm

Hi vipin………….
Very good details.
I like this type of trip.

Reply
- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:26 pm
  
  Thank you, sir ji…
  
  Reply
ashok sharma says:

March 28, 2012 at 7:51 pm

nice write up.good pics.

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- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:27 pm
  
  Thanks for liking the post Ashok ji…
  
  Reply
Ritesh Gupta says:

March 28, 2012 at 10:32 pm

very nice post along with awesome pic.

Reply
- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:28 pm
  
  Ritesh bhai, thanks for motivating…
  
  Reply
D.L.Narayan says:

March 29, 2012 at 12:21 am

Thanks for the darshan of Bijli Mahadev, Vipin. I have never heard of it before and after seeing your pictures, I feel that I must pay a visit there whenever I visit Himachal Pradesh.

When Ganga came down from the heavens on to the earth, it was Lord Shiva, according to Hindu mythology, who absorbed the impact of her descent. The Lingam of Bijli Mahadev seems to have a similar allegorical significance in absorbing lightning jolts.

While it is clear that the pole acts as a lightning arrestor, I would like to know whether there is a buried metallic conductor to route the energy of the lightning towards the Lingam. I wish that you had explained in detail about how the splintered Lingam is restored to its original condition.

Reply
- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:32 pm
  
  Thanks a lot for writing Narayan ji. Neeraj has beautifully explained the whole phenomena with the technical detailing.
  
  Reply
Neeraj Jat says:

March 29, 2012 at 3:22 pm

मुझे पता था कि बिजली महादेव की कथा पढकर यह सवाल जरूर आएगा जो कि विशाल राठौड जी ने उठाया है। असल में यह एक प्राकृतिक घटना ही है। इसमें चमत्कार इस बात का है कि बिजली गिरती तो मन्दिर के बाहर खडे ऊंचे खम्भे पर है और उसका असर पडता है मन्दिर के अन्दर स्थापित शिवलिंग पर।
अगर आपको हिमाचल की भौगोलिक परिस्थिति का अन्दाजा नहीं है तो मैं बता दूं कि कुल्लू घाटी में मानसून ब्यास नदी के रास्ते प्रवेश करता है। अगर हम मण्डी से कुल्लू जायें तो औट तक पूर्व दिशा में चलना पडेगा और फिर उत्तर दिशा में। चूंकि मानसून भी इसी रास्ते का इस्तेमाल करता है तो औट से आगे पूर्व दिशा में महाहिमालय की चोटियों के कारण उसे मजबूरन उत्तर दिशा में ही बढना पडता है और इस तरह वो कुल्लू घाटी में जा पहुंचता है। भून्तर पहुंचकर वो एक काफी खुली जगह में पहुंच जाता है। यहां से मानसून कुल्लू और पार्वती दोनों घाटियों पर पकड बना लेता है। इन्हीं दोनों घाटियों के बिल्कुल बीचोंबीच स्थित है बिजली महादेव। एक यही कारण है कि यहां मानसून में यानी सावन के महीने में खूब बिजली गिरती है। सावन को शिवजी का महीना माना जाता है।
चमत्कार यही है कि वो बिजली एक लकडी के खम्भे पर गिरती है और तभी शिवलिंग खण्डित हो जाता है। पता नहीं इन दोनों के बीच क्या सम्बन्ध है। रही बात मक्खन से जोडने की तो ऊंचाई पर होने के कारण यहां गर्मियों में भी काफी कम तापमान रहता है। इस कारण टुकडे टुकडे हुआ शिवलिंग मक्खन के साथ हमेशा जुडा रहता है। मक्खन का तो सभी को पता ही है कि ठण्ड में जम जाता है और गर्मी में पिघल जाता है।
अब तीसरी और सबसे महत्वपूर्ण बात कि दो साल पहले मन्दिर से करीब सौ मीटर दूर मोबाइल के दो टावर लगाये गये हैं। ये टावर इस पोस्ट में भी एक फोटो में दिख रहे हैं। लकडी के खम्भे के मुकाबले लोहे के ये टावर बहुत अच्छे लाइटनिंग अरेस्टर होते हैं। इसलिये पिछले दो सालों से इन टावरों पर बिजली गिरती होगी और तुरन्त अर्थ हो जाती होगी। यही कारण है कि पिछले दो सालों से बिजली महादेव का शिवलिंग खण्डित नहीं हुआ है। यानी लकडी के खम्भे पर बिजली नहीं गिरी है।
आशा है कि डी. एल. नारायण जी की जिज्ञासा भी शान्त हो गई होगी।
अधिक जानकारी के लिये मेरे ब्लॉग पर क्लिक करें:
http://neerajjaatji.blogspot.in/2010/06/blog-post_21.html

Reply
- D.L.Narayan says:
  
  March 29, 2012 at 10:31 pm
  
  विस्तृत विवरण के लिए मैं आप का आभारी हूँ, नीरज भाई, बहुत बहुत धन्यवाद।
  
  Reply
- Vishal Rathod says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 7:08 am
  
  Thanks Neeraj jee very much for your interesting description.
  
  Still I want to ask one thing. You told that Because butter is in frozen state in winter that is why Shiva lingam is intact.
  
  But what happens in summer, if the same butter which has Joined the Shivalinga melts ???????
  
  Reply
  - Neeraj Jat says:
    
    March 30, 2012 at 7:32 am
    
    Vishal ji, as I earlier told that there remains low temperature due to altitude near Bijli Mahadev. So this is why butter don’t melt even in summer.
    
    Reply
    - Vishal Rathod says:
      
      March 30, 2012 at 8:02 am
      
      Ok Neeraj jee
      
      I thought in summer butter melts because of your below sentence.
      
      ” मक्खन का तो सभी को पता ही है कि ठण्ड में जम जाता है और गर्मी में पिघल जाता है।”
      
      Any way i got it…………………………..Thanks once again…….
      
      Reply
- vinaymusafir says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 12:04 pm
  
  Neeraj Bhai, Kullu se Bijli Mahadev kis tarah pahucha ja sakta hai?
  
  Reply
  - Vipin says:
    
    March 30, 2012 at 8:43 pm
    
    विनय भाई, कुल्लू बस स्टेशन से चांसरी गाँव तक बसें आसानी से मिल जाती हैं. यहाँ से २.8 किलोमीटर पैदल यात्रा.
    
    Reply
  - Neeraj Jat says:
    
    March 30, 2012 at 11:16 pm
    
    विनय भाई, विपिन भाई ने सही कहा है कि कुल्लू से चांशरी तक बसें चलती हैं।
    मुझे चांशरी का नाम अच्छी तरह नहीं पता लेकिन उस बसों के सामने लिखा होता है- कुल्लू से बिजली महादेव। कुल्लू के मुख्य बस अड्डे से ही बसें मिलती हैं और घण्टे भर में उन्हें जहां पहुंचना होता है, वे पहुंच जाती हैं। विपिन के अनुसार वो जगह चांशरी है। चांशरी से दो किलोमीटर के करीब पैदल चलना पडता है- बढिया पक्की पगडण्डी बनी हुई है, रास्ता भटकने की कोई उम्मीद नहीं है। इन दो किलोमीटर में करीब डेढ किलोमीटर रास्ता गांवों और खेतों से होकर गुजरता है जबकि आखिरी आधा किलोमीटर रास्ता घने जंगल से होकर है। यह जंगल इतना है कि अगर आप इकेले दुकेले हुए तो डर भी सकते हो।
    मैं इसी रास्ते से गया था जबकि इस रास्ते से वापस नहीं आया था। मैं बिजली महादेव से सीधे मणिकर्ण रोड पर भून्तर से पांच किलोमीटर दूर जा उतरा था। असल में मुझे उम्मीद थी कि मैं सीधा भून्तर उतर जाऊंगा लेकिन रास्ता भटक गया और भटकता भटकता काफी दूर चला गया। मैं वापसी के लिये यही सलाह दूंगा कि कुल्लू के रास्ते ही नीचे उतरा जाये।
    
    Reply
- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:36 pm
  
  नीरज भाई, इस प्राकृतिक घटना की भोगौलिक और तकनीकी जानकारी देने के लिए हार्दिक आभार.
  
  Reply
Manish Kumar says:

March 29, 2012 at 9:32 pm

Nice to know about Bijli Mahadeo. Info provided by Neeraj is also quite interesting.

Reply
- Vipin says:
  
  March 30, 2012 at 8:44 pm
  
  Thank you Manish ji. You are right, even i was unaware of these details.
  
  Reply
vikram singh says:

July 24, 2012 at 7:36 am

Dear vipin / Neeraj ,

thanks about this information. kya app logo ko Kamru naag track ke baare m bhi koi jankari h ager h to plz yaar provide me.i’m planing for that.delhi se kamrunag kaise phucha jaye ye bhi btana.

Reply
Vipin says:

July 24, 2012 at 9:35 am

टिप्पणी के लिए शुक्रिया, विक्रम जी. मेने पिछले साल अपना क्रिसमस कमरुनाग पर ही मनाया था, जिसकी पूरी जानकारी आपको यहाँ पर मिलेगी….www.ghumakkar.com/2012/04/24/क्रिसमस-कमरुनाग/……बाकी दिल्ली से कमरुनाग पहुँचने के लिए आपको या तो दिल्ली से सुंदर नगर (मनाली वाले रूट पर मंडी से लगभग 25 किमी पहले) या फिर करसोग (शिमला से 100 किमी आगे) जाना पड़ेगा, इन दोनों जगहों से रोहांडा नामक गाँव के लिए बसें मिलती हैं. रोहांडा से शुरू होती है, 6 किमी की पैदल यात्रा. अगर आपके पास समय है और घूमने का शौक है तो में आपको माता शिकारी के दर्शन का सुझाव जरुर दूंगा जो यहाँ से मात्र 10 किमी का बेहतरीन ट्रैक है. माता शिकारी पुरे मंडी जिले की सबसे ऊँची छोटी है……. यात्रा के लिए हार्दिक शुभकामनायें….

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Aman Jassal says:

July 31, 2012 at 7:34 pm

Nice info Vipin… Really a nice place…. a must visit of HP… I have been there and was just spelbound with the beauty of the place…. http://dilkhichdi.blogspot.com/2011/09/bijli-mahadev.html

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Anupam Chakraborty says:

August 21, 2014 at 3:01 pm

Dear Vipin,

“Bijli Mahadev”- just the name was enough to take me into the story and what a read it was.

You have beautifully narrated the story and equally supported the same with fabulous photos.

Thanks

Reply
ad says:

September 26, 2016 at 4:28 pm

Hi.. Awesome blog.. did you go to Matikochar? can we get tents/food at Matikochar?

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