17th June,2010 – Mana village & around
As you have read in my earlier post, we reached Badrinath and had Darshan.
Badrinath is at a height of 11,204 feet above msl. It is around 530 Kms from Delhi and the route is Delhi – Haridwar – Rishikesh -Devprayag-Rudraprayag – Karanprayag-Chamoli -Joshimath – Badrinath. Badrinath route opens in first week of May and is closed for winters after Deepawali.
If going by own vehicle, one has to reach upto Karanprayag or Nandprayag and take a night’s halt. If there are two drivers, one can easily reach upto Joshimathh and stay there, saving one day.
For train journey, the last station is Rishikesh, from where hired taxis, chartered buses, route buses and jeeps are easily available for Badri Nath.
Neelkanth Peak – glittering gold during Sunrise
The mountains around Badrinath are mentioned in the Mahabharata, when the Pandavas are said to have ended their life by ascending the slopes of a peak in western Garhwal called Swargarohini – literally, the ‘Ascent to Heaven’.
A view from Badrinath
Local legend has it that the Pandavas passed through Badrinath and the town of Mana, 4 km north of Badrinath, on their way to Swargarohini. There is also a cave in Mana where Vyas, according to legend, wrote the Mahabharata.
According to the Skanda Purana: “There are several sacred shrines in heaven, on earth, and in hell; but there is no shrine like Badrinath.” The area around Badrinath was celebrated in Padma Purana as abounding in spiritual treasures.
According to Vamana Purana, the sages Nara and Narayana (fifth avatar of Lord Vishnu) perform Penances here.
Badrinath has also been eulogised as Bhu Vaikunta or earthly abode of Lord Vishnu. Many religious scholars such as Ramanujacharya, Madhawacharya and Vedanta Desika visited Badrinath and wrote sacred texts, such as commentaries on Brahmasutras and other Upanishads.
References to Sri Badrinath have been made in the Vedas and perhaps it was a popular shrine during the Vedic age also. The Skand Purana gives an account of the Adiguru consecrating the idol of Lord Badri Vishal in the temple after recovering it from Narad Kund, in a pursuance of a divine call from heaven. The idol is made of black stone similar to granite. So holy is the shrine that it forms one of the four prominent places of Hindu worship. The epic Mahabharat, it is believed, was composed in the Vyas & Ganesh caves close by. The Vishnu Ganga which later becomes the Alaknanda flows below the temple.
Badrinath came into lime light after Shankracharaya, saw in his visions that some buddhist while running from India to Tibet had thrown the idol of Badrinath in Alaknanda river and demolished the temple. Shankracharya went to Badrinath with his disciples, and put his “Danda” exactly at the place in Alaknanada where the idol was lying deep under water. The idol was brought out and the temple re-built. Shankracharya appointed one of his disciples as priest in the temple and this continues till date.
Even today, the head priest is a keralite Namboodri, who is called Rawal ji. This priest has to remain “Brahmchari” all his life and keep himself pious, both physically and mentally.
The temple has undergone several major renovations because of age and damage by avalanche. In the 17th century, the temple was expanded by the kings of Garhwal. After significant damage in the great 1803 Himalayan earthquake, it was rebuilt by the King of Jaipur.
Leaving hotel
Around Badrinath shrine, Mother Nature has lavishly spread her beauty in abundance.
We left the hotel and were ready to go to Mana. When JP was arranging things in the car, I just wandered around. Two Sumos came, full of sikh pilgrims Perhaps they were coming back from their trip of Hemkund. I just overheard their conversation, a woman in the sumo said -चलो जी ऐनी दूर आए आं ते बदरीनाथ मंदर वी हो आईये…(if we have come so far let us go to Badrinath temple)..a male voice replied to her – ओ छड्ड ना, असी बामणा दे मंदर च की करना ए, ऐवें इ टिक्के ला देन गे मत्थे ते, असी माना पिंड वेखने आ ते बापस चलने आं. (Oh leave it, what we have to do with temple of Brahmins, they would put a “Tilak” on our forehead and make us impure..let us see Mana village and go back). all started laughing on these comments. I felt so sad… thousands of hindus go to Hemkund and other Gurudwaras, with respect and faith and this is how sikhs mock at our faith. In my two visits I never saw any sikh visiting Badrinath temple, barring one or two youths who were in a group with other hindus. Perhaps it is something to do with false propaganda of khalistanis. Vahe guru knows if all sikhs think like this or this was a single such incident !!
Well then we started towards Mana, the last village. The road ends at Mana, but a few hundred meters before a new road is laid by BRO which is being constructed upto Ghastoli, just near the Indo-China border. ILP is required to go on this road and perhaps by end of 2012, this road will be ready till Ghastoli, a few Kilometers before Tibet border. If China leaves her enemity with India and allows Kailash Mansarovar pilgrims from this route, then we can go upto Kailash by this road by our own vehicles, without any trekking….. When that will happen…only Lord can decide. Former PM Vajpaiji tried to persuade China to open this road, but nothing came out.
Mana, the last village of India on this route
Mana is a small village inhabited by Bhutia natives, a mongoloid race. There are many trek routes available from Mana, and we can hire necessary items like tents etc, guides and ponies from Mana. Easy Vasudhara Trek (5 KM), further easy Laxmi Van trek (4 KMs) and beyond.. a difficult Satopanth trek (16 kms), are mostly undertaken by people. So we can do any of these trekking as per our capacity and availability of time.
We ventured into Mana and reached upto Bhimpul, a stone bridge over saraswati river, said to have been put by Bhima to let Draupadi cross the river.
If you see carefully the photo of bhimpul, you will notice a face in the river, with eyes, nose, mouth and hairs…. due to rocks and water creating the image.
Saraswati river – notice the face in water
Vasudhara Falls, as seen from afar
Here we had some refreshment in the Last shop of Hindustan.
Last shop of India
A view from Mana village
After visiting Mana, we reversed the car and headed towards Joshimath. This time too, the gate had just closed, and we had to wait another two hours in the que. Only the cars from hotel Sarovar Portico, a resort beyond the gate were allowed. We spent these two hours, taking photos of the beautiful Himalayas around.
I was amazed to see afar, a small cascade of snow. I had seen only once in my life a snow cascade while visiting Jungfrau, in Switzerland. The second such amazing phenomenon I saw here in Badri Nath. Snow was falling down the hill in a fall, like water and was looking like molten silver. I tried to take some shots, but only one was ok, that too could not depict the real beauty of the snow cascade. See below on the right hand side between electric cables, if you can notice the snow cascade.
cascade of snow
Himalayas
Himalayas look so beautiful from here that we were feeling sorry to be leaving this place. See below some of the photos around Badrinath.
Another view of Himalayas from BadriNath
Serene & Pious
The gate opened and we hurled downwards. We tried cable car for Auli, but the first available was after 90 minutes, so we left this for the next time. I had gone to Auli during my last visit to Badrinath. Driving at a constant speed, we reached Chamoli and turned towards Gopeshwar. I parked the car in market and went to see the GMVN rest house, but the location was so bad, I immediately dropped the idea of staying there. It was inside a crowded market, with no view of Himalayas, but shops and cars and buses only.
We reversed and came back on the main road, and after Karanprayag, saw a very small 6 room private guest house, run by two post-graduate youths. That rest house was the only building there and there was vast valley and Alaknanda river behind. The charges were just Rs. 600 per room with attached bath. I like this type of places very much. So we decided to stay there and encourage those youths, who were for the first time trying to be entrepreneurs. Rooms were brand new, food was good and the boys were so sweet and well behaved that we promised them to come back to their hotel, the next time we visit.
our stay for the night
18June, 2010 – We left the guest house and proceed further… watching for the last time, the snow clad Badrinath area.
Bye Bye Badri Nath ! last view of snow
Before Rudraprayag, we saw a path going towards Alaknanda. We brought the car near the river and jumped into the fast flowing, but not so deep river and took a refreshing bath in the icy cold water.
Icy cold water of Alaknanda – a treat in June
JP combing my hair – a punishment for sloth driving
While crossing Srinagar, I asked the crew, if they would like to go to Devprayag via Pauri. Pauri is a beautiful small hill station, just 21 Km upwards from Srinagar. From Pauri, we can view almost all the Himalayan peaks, Chadrabdani temple and other great views of the valley. I suggested that instead of going straight to Devprayag, we go to Pauri and from Pauri, we take the hilly road descending down to Devprayag. It would be just 20 Kms extra but the journey would be worth remembering. All of them refused for no reasons. JP said he is tired and wished to reach Camp Kaudiyala for a night’s stay. I continued driving towards Devprayag, suppressing my desire to go to Pauri (for the 5th time). BUT THE MATRIX HAD STARTED CONSPIRING !!!
Pauri seen from afar
After we crossed Kirti Nagar and turned towards Devprayag… about 12 Kms from Srinagar we saw big queue of vehicles. Stopping our car in the long queue, I went ahead to see the reason for such a long queue. The other drivers told that they had been waiting for about 2 hours, due to an accident. We went forward and found that a truck had slipped on the road and was lying turtle on the road in such a way that no vehicle could cross it. There was long queue on both sides. We enquired from the policeman, who informed that the big crane is being brought from Rishikesh and after it arrives, the road would be cleared. He was advising vehicles to take Tehri road or Pauri Road to go to Rishikesh, to avoid further waiting.
Many vehicles were turning back to take either of the roads. JP came with a defeated smile on his face and asked me if we could turn back and go via Pauri. Voila… the conspiracy of the system to fulfill my desire to go via Pauri, worked and we were back towards Srinagar… from where we turned right towards Pauri road….this time covering double the distance than what we would had covered had my idea been accepted then.
Enjoying the lush and green Pauri, and enjoying the beautiful scenes all around, we advanced towards Devprayag. This road is normally empty, but this time it was full of vehicles diverted due to accident on the main road.
We descended on the steep hill at Devprayag, where the Pauri road meets the main road. Stopped for a while for a cup of tea and had a great view of Devprayag from the cafe.
Dev Prayag a view from cafe
We reached our favorite GMVN tent colony at Kaudiyala by seven in the evening. Had a complete rest there among the thundering sound of Ganges trying to push big boulders… and came back to Delhi, the next day.
GMVN – Kaudiyala
Mighty Ganges – from Kaudiyala
Jai Badri Vishal… and Jai Himalayas !!!
Jai Badri Vishal
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yeh u r right Mr. neeraj. even vaishno devi mein to sabhi pithoo bhi muslim hi, pooja k liye man mein bhav hone jaruri he kisi ki dekha dekhi nahi……….. well we cant change the way of thinking.
Very well narrated equally supported with beautiful pictures !
Last year I have been to Chakrata , there is a place called VYAS Shikar ( Devban – Chakrata) , is supposed to be a place where Mahabharata was written by Vyas.
Khirshu is a beautiful hill station , 10-12 kms ahead of Puri.
Thanks MaheshSemwalji, So which gufa should be treated as right place ? In Mana also they say Vyas had written Mahabharat. Such contraditions sometimes confuse the pilgrims.
Yes Khirsu is a beautiful place and I have stayed there for a night. I have visited Pauri 5-6 times and each time it gave new fragrance.
As name suggested “shikhar” , its not a gufa.
One has to walk for 15 mins. from Devban forest guest house.
Can not say which which one right same way their are two lakhsagrah one is in lakhamandal in UA & other one is near Merrut.
if you get time kindly go thru the below story
https://www.ghumakkar.com/2011/06/28/the-hidden-places-of-uttrakhand-%E2%80%93-chakrata-lakhamandal-day-1/
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Lovely post with such great revelations ……………. “the snow cascade” , “face to river Saraswati’ , last indian shop …….. all of these spectacles are really marvelous
The story is well said with all the geographical and mythological insight. Will definitely mail you once before visiting Badrinath
Tks giriraj…. yr name itself is Himalayas (giriraj)… LOL Yes and this youth, you must go upto Satopanth trek, I have not gone there due to my health problems, but have heard it is really a heaven on earth.
tks again for your comments and for reading the story
Silent Sahab . he he he he.. nice take !!!!!!!!! But the irony is ……….. My name is a synonym to the mighty Himalayas but i have never been there ……….. nevertheless have been to its foothills ” Siwaliks” multiple times……………. in Himachal and Uttaranchal
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??????? ??????? ????? ? ????? ?? ????…?? ?????? ?? ???? ?? ??????? ??? ?? ????? ?????? ??? ?? :)
There should be a decent way to put your suggestion/comment. One must take care about the feeling of others so its a request please think ten times before writing some thing.
Thanks Maheshji for your wise advice. I have given account of a true incident which happened with me without any prejudice and without any ill-will against anyone. It was an honest question… nothing else.
I have high regards for Sikh Panth and have been regular visitor to all gurudwaras in delhi and twice to Swarn Mandir…many of my relatives are sikhs. Do you know Swarn Mandir in Amritsar had photos of Hindu Gods before 1982 and all photos were removed ?
However if the Editorial Board feel my honest and straightforward question as an ‘INSULT” they may remove that portion.. i will not mind.
My comment was not for you , I was requesting Neeraj.
Tks.. sir I had earlier read your Lakhamandal post and recorded my comments too. I think that was the only post about Lakhamandal on Ghumakkar.
After reading yr post I have kept lakhamnadal in my next visit. I had gone upto Chakrata, but no one told me then about this great place.
I will read yr post again before going, or may contact you for further inputs, if required.
Mahesh ji, you will never know. But Silent Sahab knows for whoom I have written top two lines. This is not a personnel attack on SS. But SS knows well.
Mahesh ji,
If the comment was for Neeraj, you should have mention his name on comment. You might have forgotten to mention the name.
Thanks.
Thank you SS for the brilliant tour and lovely photographs. I thought that after USD 500 bill, probably we are not going to see any more of this section so thank you for the log.
It was unfortunate to read your experience with certain pilgrims/tourists. I have had a series of great personal experience of living closely with Sikh families and I have made numerous visits to Gurudwara and they were with me for every Hindu festival. All these bitter/sweet memories make us what we are.
My suggestion to every Ghumakkar would be to spread those messages which help us to travel more, know more of a place and inspire us to do better.
Thanks Nandan for your lively comments. 500$ to kya hai, apni Ardhangini ke liye to hum Sarvasva lutane ko taiyyar hain.
I have written a very honest and true description of my travel which included some comments about my friend JP, about South Indians rebuking for a cup of Sambhar and a sikh family mocking at Badrinath… all true account of what really happened.
Now JP is one of my best friends and I have so many south Indian friends… nobody raised a finger on these incidents JP could also ask me why I am insulting him in my post…. and when i wrote a true account of sikh family everybody suddenly got the fever of SECULARISM ?
I think you better remove all those portions against JP, Madrasis and sikhs… and let people enjoy the photos and an artificial travelogue with all guddy guddy things.
????????? is khatii and mithi both….
I would like to repeat the words of Rahi Masoom Reza, while getting the Sahitya Academy Award for his novel Aadha Gaon, when reporters asked him why he had written some abusive words in his novel he simply said – I have not written anything good or bad. If my character is abusing, I have told you so.
From bitter…. to $ 500 to “Sarvasva”. lol
My comment was not for you. I made a generic request to all.
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S.S. Namskar.
Once again Thanks for a detailed , well written and Informative post… Picture are very beautiful and picturesque.
Nice to know about cascade of snow which is new to me.
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Thanks Again…
Ritesh
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Dear SS jee,
For me this was a treat to watch …………..Great post , Picture were beautiful and large and finally
description was ultimate………………….
As mentioned by Ritesh Snow cascade phenomenon was new to me also. Wish i could see it………….
I am also very fond of bathing in rivers especially holy ones……………..
Ganga , Yamuna, Godavari , Bhima, Narmada, Caveri, Mahi and Kshipra are the ones which i have bathed . I want to bath once again in Uttarchal rivers, specially all at the panch prayags………….
Alaknanda must be damn cold ?????? ……………………………….
Also I have posted a comment on Naman’s post SS jee………………..
Once again excellent post and thanks for sharing……………………
Tks vishalbhi… Water is very cold, but in plains where June Temprature is around 40 degrees, that water looks like heaven. As you saw in the photo, we really enjoyed the bath at least for one hour. Then again we took bath in Haridwar, it was a retreat from the scorching summers.
come and see yourself… dont believe my words ..LOL :)
_/\_ namaste.
(i will write to u abt yr comments in naman’s post)
I have been to that area a few times and each time Mana was only a subject of intrigue, mystique and eventually culmination of jokes around the place where road ends. Each time we argued that we must visit this town at least once. But this was more than a decade ago and perhaps we were much less independent and less mature to venture separately out of large groups. Never ever did I repent not going there, as much as I do now, after reading your post. :-)
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LOL…thankyou very much smita Dhall ji…. for bringing smile to my face !
Post se jyada maja debate padhne mein aa raha hai…. :)
@Kostubh Pandey : ????????… ??? ???? ???… ?? ??? ?? ?????? ?????? ??????? ?? ?? ??? ?? ?? ?? ?? ???? ? ????
Thank you, SS ji, for the spiritual journeys amidst the Himalayas. The vivid descriptions and views of the beautiful Himalayan landscapes gave all of us here a lot of pleasure.
Most major and some minor shrines in India have a sthal puran which associates the place with an event in our mythology. For example, in the Dandakaranya forests, where Rama, Sita and Lakshmana lived during their exile, there are many places which claim to be the original Panchavati, the place where Ravana abducted Sita, etc etc. In his account of Patal Bhuvaneshwar caves, Manish Khamesraji referred to the swargaarohan steps within those caves. What matters isn’t the veracity of these claims. What matters is to see God manifesting himself everywhere. This entire universe is a manifestation of the Supreme Spirit.
Regarding those unfortunate souls who lost out on a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to have darshan of Lord Badrinath, it is their loss. All one can do is to pray for them:
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Narayan ji, tks for your comments and enlightening views. How beautifully you have summed up our philosophy ” This entire universe is a manifestation of the supreme spirit”…. i bow to you !
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I have personally never had the pleasure to visit the religious shrine of Badrinath. It is nice to visit it virtually though. Bhagwan ne chaha to jaldi hi wahan jaana hoga.
The Shakaracharya episode is quite interesting. In fact almost everywhere in India, there is some or the other evidence of amazing psychic abilities or some unexplained phenomena. While progress in science is important, I think more energies should be invested in spiritual and psychic develeopment of the world as well. That is one aspect that is vanishing from our lives at a rather rapid rate.
Thanks for the wonderful post once again.
Vibhaji thanks for your comments. You are very right that progress in material world is imperfect if spiritual development is ignored.
Himalayas balances these energies, when we visit there in the epicenter of strong spiritual energies, we have some balance attained.
Thanks again… for taking time to read and comment
Hi SS,
Nice to read such a wondeful narration of the events. You didn’t elaborate, what happended to the person during that accident. I saw many comments on sikh’s anecdote and it comes out as a result that we sould never see such events, should never report such events and keep close our eyes,mind and mouth and never in the life venture to write in Secular India. It is just an incident of an individual but highlight the overall trust of people for Hinduism and especially for Brahmins. Any how need to add one point, earlier i used to visit karnaprayag in yatra season, things very peaceful. but now a days people go to Hemkunt saheb and with the bikes silencer open, they make a loud sound in the hills. It is so eek and irritating. May be it is 10 or 20 bikers out of 100 or thousand but this is deplorable. Please keep the sanctity and purity of the Himalayas.
tks Khanduri ji, Mr. Bisht in whose hotel we stayed in Karnaprayag had told us horrible tales of these travellers, how the priest and his son in Laxman temple were insulted & beaten by them etc etc… but I didnt mention those but only the one which happened with me. pseudo-secularism zindabad.
I agree that sanctity of the Himalayas must be respected and also respect for local people and customs should be first priority of pilgrims.
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Its my request to all please stop debating here , who want to debate on it kindly share your email ids to each other.
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Editorial team please intervene to stop this debate.
@ All Ghumakkars – We had good, engaging discussion about the mis-behavior of a group of people and each one of us have expressed their personal views. I think the issue has been beaten to death so lets move on.
Lets keep the spirit of travel and Ghumakkari alive. My request to all is to build the conversation on travel and tolerance.
Beautiful pictures of Himalayas. Specially the Nilkanth peek photograph is breathtaking.
Thanks Deependra Ji,… yes Neelkanth photo is good, but the actual view of Neelkanth peak, during sunrise was so hypnotising, that it was difficult to remove your sight from the peak.
tks for yr comments
SS ji, I apologize to belated on the post. Your photography create doubt as this man is a professional photographer, knitting & appropriations of words as professional author and extraction of every & minute importance compel to believe as a professional teacher & observer. Once again a good post. Thanks. ii) With great apology, prostration to my elders and keeping me fully bounded with the constitution of India, I am ashamed of some members of my ghumakkar.com and grateful to the Editorial Board who had shown their maturity by not deleting (…) in the matter of a tiny incidence with SS ji of immature statement by a poor pilgrim of Holy Hemkunt Sahibji. Inspite of : a) Tajjub on sampadan mandal…. by Neeraj Jat (b) One must take care…../editorial team please intervene to stop.. by Mahesh Semwal (c) Lekhak chahe to…By Mann Prakash Tyagi (d) Sardaron ne theek kaha… jal charhane ke 50|-… by Jat Devta Sandeep Panwar. Should we start further debate on the bikers with open silencer? No! No! No! Apeal to my ghumakkar.com family :- Read with maturity and enjoy like anything. Sorry SS ji and Sorry Editorial Team of ghumakkar.com.
tks bhaaji for liking the photos and narration. baki ye bachchey log hain… thoda haq banta hai unka shararat karne ka… aur mera kshma karne ka.. Khatii meethi sab honi chahiye
shant atma ji namaskar, aap bhi kya gajab ke cheej hain,achchha khasa tul de dia logo ne ,bajai iske ki itni sunder jiwant vritant ka maza lete, kutchh aur cheej me hi ulajh gaye.
waise main bhi mana gaon tak gaya hun,aur koshis ki ,ki alaknanda ke udgam sthal tak pahunchu par thakan aur vapsi ka khayal kar dur se hi dekh kar lout aaya
[Curators have edited out some sections of this comment as they were deemed unsuitable for the site. For any concerns and queries, write to info@ghumakkar.com]
Tks Rajesh priya ji for taking time to read the story.
Dear SS sir, I have not come across many people who can depict/write their experiences of travel so immaculately. Jeevan ke kuch vrittant keval anubhav kiye jaa saktein hein par unhey shabdon mein nahi uttara jaa sakta. God is great to give you those wonderful eyes and the power of narration which made me almost physically there in person to relish and realise the very presence of God all around. Irrespective of any religious fervour lets enjoy the mysteries of these places which are known for their ever lasting impact on all living creatures on earth. I deeply send my respect to your total, selfless efforts for bringing mother nature so close to our otherwise ever busy material lifestyle. thanks once again….
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Dear SilentSoulji, Enjoyed reading your blog. We visited Badrinathji in July 2010 and it was a heavenly experience. Experience of Shayan Pooja and Morning Maha Abhishek pooja was just out of this world!
About your comment – Satya Mev Jayte! Without a doubt, I would’ve shared the same thing had it happened to me. Why lie and why hide? You’re simply stating your experience and mentioning truth about what had actually happened. I’m hindu and if the story was about a hindu devotee insulting other religion, I would’ve been ashamed of that individual.
Thanks Bapu Nagarji for your time to read the article and give your valuable inputs.
Hope you are reading my other posts too.. please leave comments so that I know and appreciate that you have read them
thanks again
SSji,
Just discovered this site while browsing and read your article. So far I’ve caught up on few articles from you, Mukeshji, Kavitaji and Vishalji – All superb! Please continue writings the same way and do not change anything. Aap log apne articles me ‘jaan’ bhar dete hai!
Nagarji Ghumakkar is a beautiful site full of wonderful writers…. your comments give us new energy to write better…
thank…
continue visiting Ghumakkar dot com
hello sir..
thanks for your article’s… i like it too much..
thanks it will help us to traveling in uttarkhand,