Exploring Mussoorie Inside out

Since my granddaughter had winter vacations, and my son had also got the week off, we decided to drive up to Mussoorie for the New Year and to spend the last week of the last month of the last year, and the first day of the first month of the new year at our usual place, Padmini Nivas at the Mall, Mussoorie. Then my nephew,Rohit,his wife Sapna and 5 year old son, Sanat, also geared up to come with us to test his new automatic Honda Hybrid for the first cross-country drive. More the merrier for welcoming the New Year!

Mussoorie – The Queen of Hills

Mussoorie is considered as the backyard hill station, being nearest to Delhi, and most of the Janta has, perhaps, visited the place umpteen times and hence Mussoorie may not generate any interest anymore. So this post, if published at all, may not have any value for Ghumakkars who can skip off to Switzerland!
But we make at least two trips to this place on long weekends like Republic Day, or any other holidays. Apart from the fact that it’s the nearest hill, there are other reasons to go off from the daily crush of the city. Being near the nature, the family gets a chance to spend 72 hours together, which hardly happens in the city when everybody is with the “bun and on the run”–rush-rush! Hills de-stress one from the school, coaching classes, office hassles, and nosy neighbors. Even if it is for few days–change of AAB-O=HAWA can do wonders. Try it. Go with positive mind and you will find newness and new beauty every time if you look for it. Well, that’s our reason for skipping away from the hum-drum of towns.

Fresh and Nostalgic

My Approach to this Post and What You can expect to see
For the reasons mentioned, I will not go into the details of the route to destination, and the post will also be short musings divided under various heads, and hopefully some photographs. In fact it could be more pictorial than verbose (will depend on Nandan Jha’s editing).

The Route
Jai Ganesh!!
26th December, Friday, 2008:- We left Gurgaon at 5.03 am and were on the highway at 5.05 AM. With fog coming down and the day break far away, quite dark, it looked like we were driving through a long tunnel, but with hardly any traffic, we hit ISBT, Sarai Kale Khan at 5.30 AM and were over the Yamuna bridge, when the visibility became nil and got into heavy traffic. Because of the heavy fog, no signage, we were driving blindly, and suddenly hit the Toll Booth, which we knew never existed on way to Meerut Bypass. Here we learnt that we were on to Hapur and were told to take a u-turn and turn right at Lal Kuan after 2kms. We missed that too and found ourselves heading back to Delhi. Hardly anybody at that time to guide you, but we finally managed to go through, I think, Ghazipur, and turn right at Hero Honda showroom and got onto Delhi-Meerut Road.

To Keep you interested

Even on the double carriageways we were crawling due to heavy fog and traffic of trucks carrying sugarcane, we reached Khatauli (NH58) at 9.05 AM and Cheetal Grand at 9.15 AM. Stopped for an hour for some heavy breakfast and of course the wash. We left Cheetal at 10.20. When it was still foggy and all headlights and fog lights on. G T Road, Sultanpur, was under repair with traffic jam on both sides.

One needs to keep cool head in this kind of traffic-with bullock carts. Tractors and trucks overloaded with sugarcane and hay etc. At 11.15(196 km) the Sun came and it became quite clear and we could drive at 100kmspeed on a nice smooth road–with Mayawatis billboards on all lamp posts

Except for some portions of road under repair, both at Meerut and Muzaffarnagar by-passes, road right throughout was reasonably in good condition to allow you to speedup. By 11.35 we were at Purkazi, 11.40 we entered Uttaranchal, breeze changed, wide road, mustard fields. Bought some fruit at Mangalore high street, mango grooves area now, we stopped for coke at Vishal Punjabi Dhaba, just 2 km before Roorkee. Doon Road at 12.25 became very sunny. Excellent road for a 100km speed. From Curry Road (?)Every time we drive through the villages, there being no sign boards, one tries to find out where u are by reading the address on the shop signboards. With no luck because you are driving at speed, and, moreover hardly anybody writes the address…though some do.

So. I wouldn’t be able to tell you the names of roads we pass although we have done this rout at least 20 times! But the road which runs next to the dry river, with thicket of trees on both sides is an excellent part to drive fast, but we never do it. Instead we go real slow to enjoy the place, and we call it the “Monkey Road” where you come across families (all together, kids and parents, almost human) of the monkeys together all the way on this road. Notice their behavior, next time you go.
Uphill drive) 30km before DDoon)

13.40hours, we entered DDoon, with car showrooms like Toyota, Ford, Chevy, wild life institute…and Arahat Bazaar. One doesn’t mind slow traffic in town, because it gives a chance to see the place, and guess kind & type of people living there. In smaller town one saw only cycle shops, barber on the road side, tractor repair shops which is quite accurate representation of the people of that place. (I wonder how many Ghumakkars think of these things while travelling.)

14.00 hours we were at Ghanta Ghar, turned left uphill. Past Police Kotwalui. Osho Gallery, schools at Rajpura and stopped for few second for natures call. Though it wasn’t cold at all…
15.15 Hours we entered Mussoorie, free entry that day, and we were at our hotel Padmini Nivas at 15.20 hours, and in our rooms 21.22, 23.at@Rs.1200 per night for double room, room service, Vegetarian Guajarati food, but you get eggs at breakfast. Overlooks Doon Valley. If you can rise early and look down, the Doon looks like a starry sky while the sky is clouded up there.

It wasn’t very cold but quite invigorating and bracing on the Mall on the first night. The environment of hills, nippy air, unpolluted air, does some magic to you and you find yourself at peace with the world! (At least we do).

Explore Mussoorie – The building, few of them
Believe that even the most “boring” places can turn out be scintillating if you have a positive attitude. And passion for anything. I, for example, love to walk early morning–even in Mussoorie at 6am out of hotel-and look at the surroundings and anything old, with history, and try to find more details about it.(You will never feel bore again, and in the process you gain wonderful knowledge. So this time in Mussoorie, while on my walks in the morning I discovered quite a few buildings, and tried to find their history, not always successful–but sometime you do.

Maharaja of Kapurthala “Chateau Mussoorie”
Opposite Maharaja Of Kapurthala’s Residence

On my earlier visits, while walking up from the Library Chowk towards Dunsvirk Court Hotel
I always used to stand outside this place and wonder about the life inside but never went in as it was always locked and seemed in a bad condition. But this time we, my son, granddaughter and nephew, found the back gate (entry for servants) wide opened, and walked in all of us, For the first time I saw the front entrance (which is not visible from outside because of long drive-in) and was wonderstruck! I have read quite a lot about the maharajas (one of my passions) and knew about Kapurthala.

The Glorious Past

We just went berserk clicking photographs of gates, with Coat-of -Arms of Kapurthala on the main gates.

Coat of Arms

The Palace of Yore

There are two photos of the “foundation stone” laid for the chateau, by the elder son of the H.H.Maharaja Sir Jagjit Singh, known as Tikka Permjit Singh. The inscription is in Urdu-which was the court language, and it says that stone was laid in 1896, and the opening of the place was done by the Maharaja himself in 1899=–three years to complete, the inscription also gives the names of foreigners who made the map and who undertook the construction.

Inscription in Urdu

Great, there are other pictures of great steps leading up to the actual building (they look more like Palace L, Elysee of the Maharaja at Kapurthala. As everyone knows Kapurthala was a great Francophile. and great friend of Patiala.

The great steps

We were thrown out of the place the moment guards saw us. We were told that Raja Sahib (I think it must be Tikka Shatrujit Singh-the page three personality) has just left and that’s how the gate was not closed. But a great opportunity to go back in history and the Raj.

Hakman’s Grand At Mall
I am sure that every visitor to Mussoorie, strolling on the Mall, must have noticed the hotel signboard, but I wonder how many have gone in to see how it looks? It’s declared as a “Heritage building” and it’s in a bad condition, even though it runs as a hotel and get some residents. I walked in, and the steps lead you down to the present reception, and into the “huge hall with wooden floor which must have been a ball room for great dancing feast. There is a stage for the band to play, and there is a balcony looking down–must be for the VIPS and their ladies. The windows (all blocked and cracking) open to the view of the valley. I was not allowed to take pics, but I got myself framed with the heritage name as the backdrop, believe the hotel is 110 years old and was primarily meant for British soldiers. Later on I tried to find out its history but was not very successful. Even Ruskin Bond didn’t seem to know, when I checked with him later.

Thats me and Hakman

“Dil Aaram” Estate of Chaudhary Hyder Husein of Lucknow

Nawab Hyder Husein Saheb

There are quite a few old estates of which I have not been able to find, but one can imagine the kind of Nawabs, or High Indians life style in those days, with Rolls Royces and patronizing poets and singers, and mujras, unlike the present rajas. Some of the names given to these estates, perhaps reveal the personality of the owners, like the Kapurthala’s Chateau, (desire to be seen as a Francophile), Ch. Hyder husans “DIL ARAM”(written in Urdu at the gate. reveals the man looking for peace and Happiness and comfort. (See the pic).

Kamla “Castle” of JK Sanghanias, or “Kajriwal Kunj”
There is another big estate on Happy Valley Road on way to Lal Bahadur Shastri National Admin Academy (LBSNAA). The name on the gate, with long drive- in says Ranjit Singh,O.B.E. the place is now known as Carlton Hotel, which has a small board hanging on the door selling its wares “Worlds Best Fish Fries” I wasn’t tempted to go in, but felt that the original owner ,perhaps couldn’t afford to live like a British titled person. It’s like one of my very dear and old friend in Mumbai, Perwaize Waris, runs an advt. agency, and got as family estate in Mussoorie called “Glenville Hotel” on Mall. An old estate, like many, almost breaking down, and he is trying hard to get rid of it. There are quite a few more which, some of you can try to discover by walking around.

Explore Mussoorie – The Walks
People who say what’s there to do in Mussoorie, perhaps, are not nature-loving and are not looking for”SAKOON”.; but there are quite a few walks for one to enjoy the nature’s bounty, and at the same time, invigorate oneself. Of course, Mussoorie doesn’t have walks like Dalhousie, but I discovered few, during my morning walks (I do get out by 6.15, even in winter)

1. Camel Back is, of-course, known to everyone, but it’s still a delightful morning fare, and especially now, it has been cleaned, resting places (gazebos) have got new benches and painted. When the sun comes out from the east and its rays strike the hill, you can see the snow peaks (Take a deep breath and inhale, and experience the sheer happiness)

Take a deep breath

Here’s a short video

2. Happy Valley. is the road which goes up to the LBSNAA, going up left from the Kempty Fall Road. You can walk right up to the Academy’s Parking Place, and from there go down to the village. Or go down on the Kempty Fall Road as far as Uyoulike. It’s all downhill. So you will have to climb up back! Incidentally, you can see the Carlton Hotel on way to the Academy and try world best fish fries.)


3. This is my favorite. Go from Ghoda stand, (Library Chowk) to the road going down on the left towards old Savoy Hotel (now sold) and Mid-way Restaurant right up to the National Academy, the take the road on the left, going upward towards the Guru Nanak Fifth Century School–the road is called Harnam Singh Road, and “Harnamz” have a bungalow up there along with other bungalows. It’s an upward climb, very secluded, and beautiful walk with view of snow peaked Himalaya. Walk up to Waverly Gate (Church), turn right to walk down to the Ghoda Stand (from where you started, It’s a walk round the full mountain.

Instead of coming down to Ghoda stand via the Kapurthala Palace, you walk up beyond Dalmias Resort right up to Dunsvirk Court Hotel, the highest hotel in Mussoorie, and take a breather. THEN, LOOK TO THE RIGHT. What you see is the panoramic view of the Himalaya–all snow peak range and think of Allama Iqbals earliest great work”HIMALA” from BANGE DARA.

Mussoorie From the other end

They seem so near, you can touch them. (That a place where the TV personality of NDA-DUA has his place Its next to the place my wife’s aunt lives–some photos are there from that terrace, of the snow peaks.

Incidently,when you come down via Kapurthalas, ,have a hot glass of tea and toasts from the DRIVERS DHABA on the left–just before the Ghoda Stand.

Happy walking!

Exploring Mussoorie – Snow Peaks and Hills
There is nothing to talk but show you the pictures. By the way, if you want to meet the photographer whose pictures of peaks are on the P_POST CARDs and in the Tourist Office, Mr. Bhardwaj, you can meet him on the camel back .He lives there and runs a small tea shop (free telescope) on the first resting place-cum view point. It has a wide picture of all snow peaks. You can see the snow peaks range, a panoramic view from the vintage point of Dunsvirk Court Hotel: = peaks Gangotri, Srikanta, Jaonli, Kedarnathand few more. We shot quite a few pictures from there and other points.

The Range

ए हिमालय …

The view of Himalaya reminds one of the first famous poems of Allama Iqbal”

ए हिमालय ए फ़ज़ील-ए-किशवर-ए-हिंदोस्ताँ
झुक कर चूमता है तेरी पेचानी को आसमाँ

Exploring Mussoorie – The Mall Scene

The Mall

There is nothing much to talk about this subject also, except show some pictures that tell the story. Colourful caps. Long (Oxford Dons) scarves and tight, hip-hugging jeans–and a very young and pretty looking crowd. One of the pictures you will see us on the cycle rick (my son, my wife and I – no guilt feeling for riding). Incidentally, there is an old Antique shop at the Landour Bazar, if you are a collector. A rupee coin of 1918 will cost you Rs250/-.Next to that shop is Sardarji shop, who was one best walking stick maker in the country, but now stopped the business as the “good wood is no -longer available”. Walk around and enjoy the pretty young crowd!

Chic Chocolate

There is a restaurant, Chic-Chocolate at the end of Mall (kulri) just after the trolley. He has all walls covered with posters of old movies-both English and hindi.Good food also. Do visit, if you have not already.

Old World Feel with Good Food

Exploring Mussoorie – Money’ Can’t Buy You Love
This, in fact, is the part of Mussoorie Scenes, but I am listing it exclusively, because the pictures show you what I mean by “Money has nothing to do with happiness”. My granddaughter shot the pictures of these kids on the Mall–perhaps children’s of Cycle rickshaw pullers or pram pushers (used by young tourist for their babies to be pushed uphill).

Money Can’t Buy Me Love

The sheer innocence, the bright smiling eyes, the divinely happy faces are, I believe, something no amount of money can give you. Right from the depth of their hearts–they just looked when they saw being photographed. I hope you would agree!

Now stop smiling and continue reading

Exploring Mussorrie – Ruskin Bond and The Ghumakkar
Ruskin Bond is a well-known personality of Mussoorie and a famous author and story teller, and is loved by children and adults like me. On the 31st December 2008, he was due to appear at the Cambridge Book Depot,Kulri,The Mall, at 3.30 to sign books for public, which was a great news. As I had missed him last, I made sure to meet him this time, excited like a kid, and I was the first in long line of young kids& adults waiting for him. He came walking down from Landour (his residence) as his car had got stuck in the incoming traffic for the new year(stickler for time).

Ghumakkar, Bond and I

I had worn the Ghumakkar shirt(in the winter)given as freebie to me by Nandan Jha, to give a push to the site(HA!). Ruskin signed three books for me viz. Delhi is not far, Scenes from a writer’s life and Book of Humour. I talked to him about Ghumakkar and asked him to write something different for the site, and he said he will do. Let’s hope!

Way back to Gurgaon
On the 31st night the Hotel Padmini Nivas had a bonfire and a special open buffet and music for the resident till midnight to welcome the New Year-2009.

Thats the Gang and the Padmini Niwas

On the morning of 1st January, 2009, we packed up and left the hotel at 11.45am and reached Gurgaon at 10 pm. This time we lost time because two points. ONE:- there is a small tunnel on the way)I don’t recall the name) and it has temples on both sides, which were having some special festival celebrations and the place was jammed by hundreds of cars, bikes and busses parked right in the middle of the road, Dead stop! Until two gentlemen, stuck like us, started to get the traffic moving–begging people to reverse, or move aside. After one hour we got out of that jam. Then again, no signage, we missed the Meerut Bypass and went through the big city (cost us at least an hour), and even entering Delhi was a little messy, and we had to ask for the way–this happens to us every time we come back late at night. All-in-all a good memorable trip, even if it is to a backyard hill stations–it is still queen of hills.

Hope you enjoyed the ride with me.


  • uma sethi says:

    the detailing was excellent and hope all future holiday makers benefit from it and enjoy!

  • Ram says:

    Simply awesome. Some of the pictures are superb. Thanks for sharing your year end experience, which not only brought back the sweet aroma of Mussorie, but lots of nostalgic memories too.


    Thank you all for your appreciation,even though its,perhaps ,too long.
    Thanks for searching.Do check back and you will find much more interesting posts and places than this piece.Do keep visiting.

    you should contact the “Boss”, Nandan Jha for the lay out, and you can pat his back for the layout of this post. Contact him:- nandanjha@gmail.com,if you already dont him. Thanks for dropping-in

    I wish I could incorporate two vedio clips of Ruskin Bond and the snow peaks , but they are too heavy to email.I am grateful to you for your heartening words, which aregreat for boosting the ego, because praises come very rarely now-a-days!

    My wife ,of course, will have a good word. Thanks dear!

    • Mojoy says:

      Hello sir, good post. I wonder if you can assist me. I am looking to buy property near Mussoorie. It’s a project called Binhar Heights some 38 km from Kempty Falls. How is the place? Cool or warm during May June? Pls reply ASAP to mojowrites@yahoo.co.in

  • nandanjha says:

    I have been to Mussorrie just once, mostly because the travel snob like me didn’t want to go there :) initially. (more so because fellow punju delhi-ites would go there, have a tikki-chat at mall, play video-games, binge RC with Soda and what not).

    As I grew old (and less stupid and more flexible and mature and blabla) I finally made it , that was about couple of years back, I liked it.

    But after reading this piece, I think it deserves few more trips.

    Brilliant Sethi Saheb. Brilliant.

  • nandanjha says:

    Bruce – The layout is by Nurudin. You can look at more of this works at http://www.jauhari.net.


    Nandan , I am grateful to you for the layout(praise from Bruce). you talked about RCwith soda(or without it), was quite acceptable ,this time being the New Year, and the liquer shops were crowded on the mall–not Punj but Firangs and Hep and very young crowds–mainly couples and well behaved. On the 1st Jan2009, when I went out for walk, the Mall was all cleared and cleaned of empty RC cartons! Bjp seems to be doing good job.Thank you, and now my turn to take bow!

  • Nice write up. I have been to Mussorie couple of times and it’s awesome. Though I never visited campty falls. In early 80s, there was a big ground from where you use to take cable car. When I went 2nd time in 1995, I was searching for the cable car start point and ground was my landmark. I was surprised to see too many hotels there.

  • Aanchal Jaiswal says:


    I am from Dehradun and an avid lover of Mussoorie. To read your blog was re-living those days when I and my college mates used to go to mussoorie just to have breakfast and come back to join the college practicals.

    To add more, I was also there, the day you were discovering the beautiful facts about mussoorie. :)

    The way you have mentioned the nitty gritty of the trip is SIMPLY SUPERB. In my opinion you have done a complete justice to “THE QUEEN OF HILLS”.

    Best Regards


    THANKS for correcting me and giving the correct info about the layout to Bruce.

    Cable car is still very much there,though its no longer a maidan, but shopping bazzar and BHAIL-PURI wallas, but still very interesting place and people. I visited Kempty Falls three years agop and had a nice cool dip, but I believe its dry now–I am not sure. Thanks

    Thanks a lot, young lady, for your gracious words .I do believe Mussoorie is the Queen of Hills, having visited almost all of them. If you were there on 31stDecember 2008, I must have seen you as I dont miss beautiful things!God bless you and a happy new year.

  • smitadhall says:

    Great show, Sethi Sir, with yet another memorable description.

    And thanks for endorsing Ghumakkar to Mr. Bond. It seems to personally flatter all ghumakkars – your effort to wear a t-shirt in winters – that too over a full-sleeve! Wow, who would dare to do that! Really inspiring!


    Smita, Thanks for your good words.Hope you saw the short clip which Nandan added later.We were hoping for snow,but no luck. Thanks again. Sorry for the delayed reply. Jatinder

  • Great job Sethi Ji.

    I call Mussoorie my real home – the place where I would like to stay permanently. I have visited it many times and can’t have enough of it! I know when season is on, the Mall becomes a Pahar Ganj street. However, move away from the Mall and you can enjoy best of what Mussoorie has to offer.

    Being someone who likes peace, I prefer to keep myself near Chaar Dukaan, up in Landour. The walks around there are simply amazing.

    So if you have avoided visiting it because of the ‘crowds’, go now and see for yourself, the real Mussoorie.

    • Peter says:

      I was brought up in Mussoorie in the early ’40’s. We lived for awhile at Khakhasan Cottage, which is now a hotel, just opposite the Maharajah of Kapurthala’s estate.My family knew them well. In those days Muss was free from the density of tourists it gets now. My mother was a dancer and regularly appeared at Hakman’Hotel in cabaret. Now in a state of disrepair, Hakman’s in those days was a glorious place.
      I haven’t been back since we left just after Independence.Going back would erase all my lovely old memories. Tourism has ruined my lovely Mussoorie. I’ll keep my memories, thanks.


    Thank you very much for your kind words and tip to visit Landour. I know the place as we walked aroud Chaar Dukan,was shown the house of Tom Alter and others.We walk upto Landour Bazar,and Ghanta Ghar and beyond. I will certainly take your advice and visit the place again,if we secide to go there on the Republic Day week-end.Last Republic-Day we were there. Hope I can do justice to your “real Home”, .In fact you know I picked up a book few days back which has a chapter on Mussoorie and has list of ;ot of buildings which are no loger there. The book is “SIRLA PRINCES”.Havnt yet read it.

  • Arun says:

    I do wish to meet Ruskin like you managed to, some day. His writings are so inspiring.. Thanks for the story and pix for Ruskin Bond.

  • Jatinder Sethi says:

    Arun,next time you go to Mussoorie, visit the Cambridge Book Depot at the other end(after the trolley) which is at the corner of old Glenvilla Hotel. The owners are very nice people and they can arrange a meeting with Ruskin Bond. Their telephone :-2632224// and 2631424. Good luck.

  • Sat Sri Akal Jatinder, I bumped into your blog while searching for information on Chateau Mussoorie and saw your wonderful photographs. I’m currently doing research on Maharajah Jagatjit Singh for an online exhibit about his life and times and would love to include your pictures on the website. Do you have high resolution images that you could send me as well as other images that you may have taken that day. Looking forward to hearing from you by email.

  • Jatinder Sethi says:

    Dear Mr. Brar, Thanks for your comment .Wish you all the sucess for your effort on H.H.Maharaja Sir. Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala.In fact ,I have,in my collection, quite a few pics of the Maharaja Kapurthala and Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. You can also look up the web site”Kapurthala” and see the books of Jermany Das,which I am sure you must have.
    I would like to know little bit about your credentials, email and address etc. to keep in touch.The pics , few more, in this post are from digital camera,which can be emailed to you, if you like.

  • Manish Khamesra says:

    Superb Sethiji.

    A very detailed account :)

    I read Ruskin Bond only recently. These days I am carrying his Children’s Omnibus in my office bus. It had collection of short stories. It also has the story Blue Umbrella on which the movie by the same name has been made. After most of the stories there is a smile on my face. Smile sometimes due to the humour in it and sometimes giving peace, and sometimes reflecting that I am reading such nice stories.

    Your post has everything in it – the history, nature, literature, beautiful life around us and yes the spirit of ghumakkari that gives life to all these things. ( the day it was posted, Nandan specially recommended not to miss this one and I am going through it now) :)


    I dont think ,one deserves this kind of rare praise, but anyway, it makes me feel great.Thanks a million(In fact I almost dug up my old log books to Mukteshwar,Dalhousie etc to do a post—then I came down to earth and put them back in the basement,)Anyway they are now out-dated.Bond signed three books for me-Book of Humour,Scenes from writers Life and Delhi is not Far-the story about a village barber and a struggling writer, who dream of ,one day,going to big city Delhi for fame and fortune.Good reading.Thanks,once again.

  • Manish Khamesra says:


    I read a superb account by Mani Ghatraj in ghumakkar only about the life in Kalimpong in 50s. I am sure yours would be similar. What can be better than recording the changes in place with time. Your old log books will surely help you to recall your trip. Maybe you will also visit Mukteshwar & Dalhousie along the memory lane. I am requesting to share your accounts.

    Please also share that how you found those books and which one is the best :)


    Manish,thanks,once again.I will certainly try to dig out logs & pics,about MacLoadganj,Delhouse etc though they will have no relevence since they are few years old trips.The60s trip got lost in transit while moving from Mumbai.
    I read the post on Kalimpong,and enjoyed it. In -fact I have piece written ,for someone else,about Delhi of 50s,more specifically about the iconic India Coffee House of Jan Path and the well-known & not so well-know regulars(including InderKumar Gujral who became the Prime Minister of India,and others).Its just atext piece,no pics, and not as well written as Ghatraj.I will see by next week if its worth publishing–I will email to Nanda for review,if possoble.
    Regarding Ruskin books:-“The book of Humour” is fun reading,especially you read it like a 15 year old kid.It has the flavour of PGWoodhouse,Ruskin,as a kid, writes about his “Crazy” relatives,wonderful uncle Ken,grandmother ,grandfather and pets, Charming characters.
    The othe book”Delhi is not far” is about a village barber(not Billu) and a struggling writer who dream of saving enough money to to Delhi for fame & fortune…one to find a publisher and make money, the other wants to be a barber to Pt,Nehru.
    .Read them

  • Rahul Moray says:

    Nice blog. Gives detailed informtion about your experience. I live in Hyderabad and I plan to visit Dehradun, Mussoorie, Rishikesh and Haridwar during the end of May. How many days do I need for sightseeing for each one of those towns? (If you any idea of the other towns too)

  • Yashavantha says:

    Hello JATINDER,
    This is a very nicely described post i ever read.
    I am planning to go to Massoorie with my wife some time in February 2011 for 2 days. I need your help in planning my trip to massoorie and hope you dont mind helping us.
    1. How many days are ideal to spend in massoorie?
    2. How to reach from Delhi by Train?
    3. What are the places we must see in massoorie? How to plan to visit these places in a two days trip?
    4. What are all the accommodation options available?
    5. Do you suggest to book a travel agent who can take us in and around massoorie so that we need not to run around to find out the places and modes of travel?
    6. And any other information you feel we need to know about massoorie
    It will be very helpful for us if you can throw some light on all or some of my queries.
    Thanks in advance.
    With Regards,

    • Jatinder Sethi says:

      Hello Yashavantha(have I spelt it right?)
      I must,first of all, apologize for not noticing your comment earlier,as I visit this site rarely now.You have asked so many question,which I may not be able to answer.And probably you may have already visited the
      place.If you have,then let me know your experience.If not,then do let me know if you still need the info. Regards to you and your wife.

  • Rajeev Tivari says:

    Sethi Saheb, You have made the queen of hills come alive in your writing and pics/vids. The spirit of Ghumakkari, which is also about exploring and enjoying the mundane-ness of places, is flowing in your post. Thanks you so much for sharing!

  • Jatinder Sethi says:

    Rajeev, I am rather surprised that after years one still gets people coming to the post and enjoying it.I appreciate it. It flatters me,especially when I have been away from Ghumakkar for long time.I wonder if you have read my post on Shimla”Doing nothing in Fagu”? and “Visit to holy city by a muddled mind?
    I am now writing some.non-traveller posts. Thanks a Million once again.

  • jassi says:


    i am planning to visit mussorie around 13 dec, with my kid 18 month old. is it safe in dec as per cold ifs concern for small kid.


    yes ,of-course it is safe,as long as you have him well-covered, and a nice woolen cap. He will love the fresh air, and the chill..Do go and enjoy. Stay at Padmini Niwas, if you dont have any other place. Seasons greeting and Merry XMas. Jatinder Sethi

  • ChatpataDun says:

    I must say that the city (Mussoorie) has become a lot commercialized, but the weather etc is still awesome. Beware of the snowfall, if you plan to visit around December end/January. There are a lot of options for the people who love trekking.

  • RICKY says:


  • Yogesh says:

    Please note ‘Tikka’ means heir apparent, he is not a/the Maharaja. As good children one always prays for the long life of our parents.

    • jATINDER sETHI says:

      Thanks for your comment. In fact, you may be interested to know that Tikka Permjit Singh,the eldest son,and heir-apparent ,became the Maharaja after the death of his father,H.H. Maharaja Sir Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala,after India achieved its Independence.
      Just for info,I am writing a piece on the relationship of father and son—Tikka Permji Singh, and his father, the Maharaja,towards the end of his life when the Maharaja was at Taj Hotel Bombay for his treatment from Col.Maharaj Singh,just before his death.

      I am surprised to see that people read and write comments on Ghumakkar stories even after years.
      Thanks again.

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