During one family visit to Ladakh, I came across one Israeli tourist staying in the same hotel. He had spent close to three months in cold desert of Himachal and Ladakh. He was of the opinion that Spiti and Lahaul valleys of Himachal Pradesh are more beautiful compared to Ladakh. I did not fully believe him, after being so mesmerized by the beauty of Ladakh. But after experiencing the charm of Kinnaur and Spiti valleys during the last six days, I could not agree more with my friend. Now I was eager to visit Lahual valley.
DAY SEVEN {29TH AUG. 2013}
Next morning, the bus departed for Manali sharp at 5.00 in the morning. It was still dark in the valley, so after being watchful for some time for something new and exciting, I started drowsing. We stopped after two hours for breakfast at Losar. There was also a barrier, where foreign nationals were required to get their papers and permits checked. Losar is the last inhabited village after Kaza before Kunzum La and first inhabited village after Kunzum La, when coming from Manali. Trekkers going to Chandratal from Kaza can stay here.
Breakfast halt at Losar
The uphill journey ahead was a nightmare, as far as the road condition is concerned. The road was virtually non-existent, with the bus driver having to patiently negotiate large potholes and boulders at every meter. I was perhaps dosing, when I heard some commotion in the bus. On focusing my eyes, I saw passengers animatedly pointing to one side of the bus. And there, behold, was a pair of two Ibex standing proudly on a small cliff. By the time I could think of clicking pictures and looked for my camera, they were gone. By around 11.00 in the morning, we reached Kunzum La, the highest pass in Spiti valley, situated at an altitude of 4590 mts.
Temple at Kunzum pass
We had a 15 minute break here, when everybody was praying in the monastery cum temple and people like me were clicking photographs. After Kunzum La, it was steep downhill on a fair weather road. After about 5 kms. there is a diversion towards right for trek to Chandrabhaga Lake, which I had to just forget with a heavy heart.
Glacier opposite Kumzum La
With every passing kilometer, the road got from bad to worst and it was undoubtedly the worst patch of the road. Due to melting glaciers, road had been washed off and strong rivulets were criss-crossing the road.
Road after Kunzum La
During this stretch, a car had a flat tyre in the middle of a stream. The traffic had halted and the passengers of our bus, helped in changing the wheel. We started crawling forward, for being blocked once again by the same car, which was ahead of us. This time the car got stuck in a stream having big boulders. Again the passengers and staff of the bus came to the rescue of the car. Stones were planted strategically in front of the car tyres to provide some friction and the car was literally lifted out of the stream by the passengers.
Car being rescued by bus passengers
We descended to the valley at Batal and from there we moved in the valley, literally on the river bed up to Chatru, which was our mid-day meal stop. Trekkers going to Chandratal from Manali or Keylong can stay here overnight. Chatru was the smallest village I have seen in terms of population, with a population of just 20 people. In fact there are no houses here, just 3-4 eateries catering to needs of the entire spectrum of passengers.
Chhatru village with population of 20
After lunch at Chatru, we started ascending in the valley towards Gramphoo, which is junction of Manali-Kaza and Manli-Keylong- Leh road. We reached Gramphoo after 2.00 p. m. I got down from the bus here and waited more than half an hour for the next bus to Keylong. Gramphoo also is nothing but a small road junction having some dhabas {eateries}. Being located on a small ridge just below the Rohtang Pass, the breeze is very strong.
Tri-junction at Gramphoo
The bus journey from Gramphoo to Keylong took almost three hours. Road was good in some stretches. But journey was very scenic, with one glacier view after the other. In Keylong also, I got down at the old bus stand, where I could easily find hotel at a reasonable price.
View of glacier from Keylong
DAY EIGHT {30TH AUG. 2013}
I had done some home work previous evening. So, by 9.00 a.m. I had boarded the bus for Trilokinath, famous for an old Lord Shiva temple. The distance of 60 odd kms. was covered in more 3.00 hours. The route was lined with lush green fields and fruit-laden orchards.
A prosperous village in Lahaul valley
Much to my surprise, I found that Lahaul valley is very advanced in horticulture and agriculture. The number of cars parked outside houses and the quality of construction of houses, was a testimony of economic well-being of the region. Every village had drinking water, primary health centre and school. I was told by the locals that due to agriculture and tourism, Lahaul district was among affluent districts of Himachal Pradesh. To my amazement, there I found many residences grand enough to turn any highly affluent industrialist of Mumbai green with envy.
A residence enroute to Udaipur
On the Udaipur and Trilokinath road, the frequency of the buses is very less. So, if one bus is missed, people have to sometimes wait for hours for getting the bus. I had to endure this at Udaipur bus stand.
Women in the traditional attire waiting for the bus
Trilokinath temple is unique in the sense that it is a Hindu {Shiva} temple, but the temple is looked after {including prayers etc.} by Buddhist lamas. This is so because of a dispute long back, as to whether it was a Hindu temple or a Buddhist monastery.
Triloki Nath Temple near Udaipur
After visiting the temple, I was having some snacks and tea in an eatery. There I saw a dish, which
I had never seen before. On enquiring, I was told by the lady managing the eatery that it was steamed intestine of sheep. It looked quite enticing, but being a vegetarian, I had to forego the thought of tasting it.
Laid back Udaipur town market
From Trilokinath, I proceeded to Udaipur town, which is 16 kms. from Trilokinath. Udaipur is a small town in the valley, which is known for an old Hindu temple of a goddess. The entire temple built of mud stones and wood. The interior of the temple is a wooden structure with a very low entrance to the main temple. One has to literally crawl to enter the temple. After more than 3 hours wait for the bus, I reached back to my hotel in Keylong after 9.30 p.m.
Old temple of Godess at Udaipur
It was the last day of my trip and like all such occasions, it was truly heartbreaking. Due to some confusion, I reached the bus stand at 8.45 a. m. thinking that the bus for Manali would be departing at 9.00p.m., whereas, the actual departure time was 8.00 a. m. After a long wait for the next bus to Manali, I opted for a sharing basis taxi. By 3.00 p. m. I reached Manali, after crossing Rohtang pass {3978 mts.}. I could not view the valleys on either side of Rohtang due to heavy fog and rain.
Near Rohtang top
DAY NINE {31ST AUG. 2013}
Manali valley was as beautiful as ever. My overnight bus for Delhi was to depart at 5.00 p.m. After booking the bus ticket, I only had time for a brief stroll on the Mall Road of Manali, which was very crowded. I also rushed to the factory outlet of the Weavers Co-operative at the upper end of Mall Road for purchase of authentic Kullu shawls. And at 5.00 p.m. I was saying good bye to Manali, hoping that there is always some new trip to some exiting place waiting in the future. It could be Uttaranchal or Ladakh once again. As has oft been repeated, it is only the body of the person which returns after such spellbinding trips, the heart is left behind in these valleys.
Delhi-Simla- Rampur-Recong Peo-Kalpa-Tabo-Kaza-Keylong-Manali-Delhi
A. Total Duration- 9 days
B. Total Approximate Cost- Rs. 11000.00 {USD 183 approx.}