Nainital – The Last Leaf

In short six hours you have left the smoggy wheezy plains behind and are driving through pine forests at an altitude of about 6500 feet breathing in fresh air by lungfuls. After a long time you are on an official vacation. The agenda is clear – there is absolutely no plan except to get to Nainital and just kick back. Lately it seems you are being influenced by the different movies you have been watching. Naina in the lighthearted ‘Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani’, when confronted by Bunny’s long list of sights still to be seen in beautiful Udaipur philosophies, “However hard you try, there will be things in life that you will miss out on. So just try to enjoy the present.” And that defined the agenda. You are just going to enjoy the hills and the fresh air of Nainital. There was no list of places to see in the phone’s note pad. Okay, you have seen the movie’s second half several times. And Naina had nothing to do with the choice of Nainital as the destination; even though they sound suspiciously similar. The sole criterion for choice of destination was that you wanted to avoid the roads and the train drops you so tantalizingly close to the hills.

Sitting in a restaurant on the Mall Road, you feel happy. The early December air is nippy, fresh and clear. There are few tourists this time of the year. Sun rays reflect off the dark green water of the lake creating silvery ripples. Wisps of clouds float in the incredibly blue sky. Such blue skies are seen over Delhi for maybe two days a year. You have chosen to sit in the open sided area. The sun is soothing. You are almost in a trance. It seems life has receded leaving you in a glowing fuzzy ball of warmth. And then you see the tree.

Nainital has mixed vegetation – the winter ready pine trees and a smattering of deciduous trees. The deciduous trees are in different stages of hunkering down for the winter. While some still have full canopies, others have totally lost their foliage. This tree right across the street is left with few leaves. And then you see this lone leaf on the branch as if waging its last battle against time and nature. The breeze is not helping either. In the sun the leaf seems to glow in an iridescent halo. Real life imitates reel life. The beautiful film ‘Lootera’ partly based on O. Henry’s short story ‘The Last Leaf’ tells the story of a woman who has willed herself to die when the last leaf of the ivy vine falls. The leaf you see seems to be the painted leaf that Varun has tied to the branch so that Pakhi peering from behind a curtained window of a house high above on the hill is inspired by the tenacity of the leaf and instead wills herself to brave her illness and live. Okay, you have seen the second half several times. Did you say you love mush? What is Nainital doing to you? You have been here for a couple of hours only.

The stroll along the lake from Tallital to Mallital is the best part of Nainital. Tallital is the southern end and Mallital is the northern end of the lake. You come down from your hotel at Tallital, cross over the street and start the walk by the lake. Boatmen come to you selling boat rides. Right now you want to walk. Guides come to you showing photo albums of places in Nainital. There are two packages – list of six or twelve attractions in and around Nainital; Rs. 500 for six places in a car that takes about 2-3 hours and Rs. 1200 for all day excursion. Your resolve stays steadfast. You are in grip of Naina’s words. You just want to enjoy the present. The Mall Road is clean with other people like you walking. There are benches all along where you could sit and look out to the lake. Yellow leaves light up in the sun. A sparrow – your bird find of the trip – seems content to finally have a city it can call home. There are other avian visitors high above the lake side.

Hotels of all budgets line up the mall – this is best time to bag great deals. Soon restaurants make their appearance. On some stretches the construction starts from the level of the road and goes all the way up the hill. On the other side beyond the lake the hills rises relatively less pockmarked; but then it is a matter of time. You just hope that this year’s ravage of the hills by the rains have instilled some fear and sense in the authorities.

The location of your hotel at the top of Tallital is a bonus. You had done some research on the net before booking your hotel. In the reviews people had indicated room numbers on first and third floors that provide awesome view of the lake. At night the hills go silent and the lights shimmer on the lake, perhaps the only redeeming feature of the houses built all the way up the hill. You could look at this postcard view all night.

Mallital is the northern end of the lake where the major action is. It is Janpath, Sarojini Nagar Purana Qila boat club all rolled into one with a live cricket and basketball match on the side. If the walking has made you hungry then it is time to dig into omelettes and noodles at the various street side carts. You can sit on the lake side boundary wall or the amphitheatre style seats on the edge of the basketball court. The breeze flowing over the lake is noticeably cold so the hot tea with the snacks is just what the doctor ordered.

After fuelling up it is time to take the plunge into the lake of course sitting in a rowing boat. Nainital grows quieter as you glide to the far side. Water turns darker in the shadow of the western hills. You keep filling your lungs with the fresh air just to make sure the air cleans up the farthest sooty alveoli of your lungs. Wish they had Nainital air takeaways.

On the way back you walk on the hill side of the Mall Road for some shopping. Nainital is famous for its candles. But this time of the year the showrooms offer good discounts on woollens. You stop by an artificial jewellery shop to indulge in some window photograph(shop)ing. Everything is unplanned and on the spur. Yes life does feel better this way.

Besides Nainital, the idea of seeing the mighty Himalayas seems exciting. So a deal is made of the six location package and the driver asked to take you to the point where Himalayas are said to appear. On the way you enjoy Naini Lake’s awesome aerial view. A little higher at the Snow View Point you are greeted with the unhindered view of a long chain of Himalayas. Under the brilliant sun the snow capped peaks shimmer in the distance against the backdrop of blue skies. It is a view to behold. Himalayas are truly majestic. The telescope guy points out Nanda Devi & Trishul peaks and the distant Mukhteshwar to you.

You spend most of your allotted time here and grudgingly come down. On your way down don’t forget to put arms around your loved one and get photographed at Lovers’ Point. The car driver leaves you at Mallital. You want to take another stroll by the lake.

And then without any warning the mist descends over the lake. The breeze turns chilly, and the streets suddenly get deserted. But there are bravehearts who dare to go into the lake. Standing on the jetty you see them soon melt into the swirling mist. The mist is the best thing to happen to you next to actually snowing.

The veil of mist soon lifts as you make your way up to the hotel. Nainital, its air, its skies will fill you up with life. Instead of waiting for the last leaf to fall you will be looking forward to spring blooms.

Getting There: Kathgodam Shatabdi offers a convenient connection to Kathgodam from Delhi’s Anand Vihar station. From Kathgodam hire a taxi to Nainital. Nainital is 24 kms from Kathgodam. If you have a list of places to see then you can visit Bhimtal, Naukuchiatal and several other lakes in the vicinity. Hotel Himalaya is a good option with a great view of the lake from the third floor rooms and terrace.