In Search of Tiger at Corbett Tiger Reserve

30.03.2012 was the last working day after which we get a week to relax after a hectic three months working for the Banks in our profession. Thus began the search for visiting some soothing and worth places nearby to relax. After some research work & browsing we concluded to start with visiting the most famous Tiger Reserve in India, the Jim Corbett from there to Nainital and then to Kausani and back to Delhi via Goaldam. Three of us started off in my car (Swift Vxi) at or around 2 PM from Delhi. Soon we were at India Gate then a left turn towards Purana Quila to head through Akshar Dham Mandir crossing the Nizammuddin Bridge over R. Yamuna and go straight on NH 24 upto Moradabad on bye pass.

The road upto Moradabad is excellent, a U-turn towards Kashipur on Moradabad bye-pass leads towards Ram Nagar, a base for Jim Corbett for those who don’t get bookings in any of the FRH in the park. Bookings of the FRH are made well in advance hence we were supposed to stay a night at Ramnagar. The road through Kashipur was in bad condition through several villages and kasbas. We reached Ram Nagar at or around 8 PM. A local shopkeeper informed us about a resort which was a large property with ample rooms and tent accommodation with a restaurant in good shape in a wild environment in the town. We preferred to stay in the rooms because the tents don’t have attached baths. The tariff was very reasonable @ Rs. 1,000/-. After relaxing and refreshing we inspected the property by strolling amidst the trees and bushes which was planted in a planned manner to give a wild impression to its visitors. Our concern for getting an entry pass for the reserve was sorted by the Manager of the resort by informing about the office of the Forest department located in Ram Nagar close to the resort. There are as many as five gates for entering the reserve’s five zones however, only 60 vehicles are allowed at a time to enter the reserve through any gates. An early visit to the reservation office is essential to get the entry pass for entering the reserve through the most sought zones i.e. Dhikala or Bijrani which are generally booked in advance specially during week ends and seasons.

Tourism Zone: Entry Gate
Dhikala: Dhangarhi
Jhirna: Khara,Kalagarh
Bijrani: Amadanda
Sonanadi: Vatanvasa
Domunda: Durgadevi

Early morning therefore, we headed towards the reservation office and found many open Gypsy parked there. Though one can enter the reserve in ones own vehicle, we preferred to hire an open gypsy to have the feel of a jungle trail. Soon the driver Mr. Luthra guided us to obtain the entry pass immediately because only few entries through one of the preferred zone i.e. Jhirna was left. After completing the paper work formalities and paying the entry fees, we were allotted a pass for the vehicle and three of us, through the Kalagarh gate. We parked our car in the campus of the reservation office with many other vehicles already parked there and boarded in our gypsy. Jhirna is almost 5 km from Ram Nagar through a narrow pebbled road with hundreds of road breakers to check the speed low. The road upto Jhirna is also through the jungle and sparsely populated with some vendors renting Binoculars, Cameras and selling caps with prints of the Jim Corbett logos. The monkeys and variety of species of insects and birds can be sighted well before entering the designated reserve forest area.

Soon we reached the entry point of the reserve with boards of do’s and don’ts and other important information affixed. The entry inside the reserve without a nature guide is not permissible hence the nature guide Mr. Anil Chaudhary also boarded our gypsy after the formalities of exhibiting our entry pass to the official on duty.

The drivers and the nature guides are immaculately trained, prudent and hard core nature lovers who passionately and proudly perform their duties by guiding the tourists with relevant facts and history of the reserve and about its habitats. Their charges are fixed and timings are strictly maintained. A walk either in the buffer or the core is strictly not allowed and cautiously monitored and followed by the nature guide and driver to avoid any untoward incident. It is believed that the animals always see us even though if we can’t spot them in their habitat, after all we are in their region.

The different zones offer varied landscapes with opportunities to sight different floras and faunas. The presence of animals varies in accordance with the landscape suitable to their habitats. The landscape of Jhirna is drier than in Dhikala and vegetation is mostly scrub. Jhirna was a farming village until 1994 when it was successfully relocated under Project Tiger. The abandoned farmland is gradually reverting to a wild state and is being managed to develop grassland habitat. The nearby terrain consists of numerous sots and narrow gorges running through typically Shiwalik landscape. The hills to the north of Jhirna are covered with dense patches of bamboo. Apart from being a good habitat for tiger, leopard and deer, the place hosts other interesting mammals like sloth bear and wild boar. A variety of birds can also be enjoyed here.

We were very excited to see the herd of elephants which has been spotted by one of the nature guides early morning and we were informed that a male tiger is also reported wandering in the area during the early morning. There is a defined route for every visitor to follow from the entry gate which ends at the FRH inside the jungle. On the way there is a watch tower alongside the river for watching animals reaching at the stream for drinking water and bathing. We tried it but in vain. The spotted deer, peacocks, variety of birds including the sparrows were a delight to watch. Suddenly, the driver stopped the vehicle and we found some fresh pug marks of a tiger on the sand beside the road. After a few meters we spotted some scratch marks on a tree probably made in the past. These proofs however, evidenced the truth of story we were told by the nature guide about the male tiger visited the place early morning. Elephant herd might have walked away leaving signs of crushed bushes and flattened shrubs. The dream of sighting the mighty RBT remained a dream but it was good to see the evidence of their presence that retained the hope to see the king in future also.

Slowly but steadily we reached at the end point upto which a vehicle is allowed inside the reserve of Jhirna Range. There is an FRH built in 1995 for accommodation with a small restaurant offering tea, water and snacks. A large round bamboo cage was so interesting to see which is meant for caging humans while watching wild life from inside it. All the vehicles that started early from Ram Nagar were at a halt for refreshments and cooling the engines of the vehicles that were running in 2nd gear all its way inside the core. The restaurant owner was busy selling every item at a substantial high price without confronting any complaints from its customers. Monkeys in large numbers were also remarkably happy making kids enjoy their stupidity and eating in abundance in bargain from anywhere to anything.

The return journey is through the same path, the to and fro takes approx. 4 hrs. By 10 am we were back to the parking. Picked our car and headed towards our next destination i.e. Nainital via Kaladhungi 70 km and a 2 hr drive through a well maintained single road in serenity with picturesque view and fresh aroma of the Himalayan flora.

About Jim Corbett National Park (Compiled from different sources)

Jim Corbett National Park is the oldest National Park in Asia and the first to come under Tiger project. It was established in 1936 as Hailey National Park to protect the endangered Bengal Tiger. The reserve was renamed in 1954–55 as Ramganga National Park and was again renamed in 1955–56 as Corbett National Park in honour of the well-known author and wildlife conservationist Jim Corbett, who played a key role in creating the reserve by using his influence to persuade the provincial government to establish it.

Situated in the foothills of the Himalayas, in the newly created state of Uttarakhand is haven for wildlife lovers in India. The present area of the Corbett national park is 1318.54 sq. km. including 520 sq. km. of core area of and 797.72 sq. km. of buffer area. The core area of the Corbett tiger reserve forms the Corbett National Park while the buffer contains reserve forests (496.54 sq.km.) as well as the Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary (301.18 sq.km.) Flat valleys are interspersed with hilly ridges and the Park’s rolling grasslands provide an excellent view of its rich eco system.

Corbett National Park is one of India’s most beautiful wildlife areas has a tiger population of around 160, which makes this park as the last and the most important bastion of this endangered species in India. Every year almost 1 lac visitors visit the reserve from India and abroad that also comprises of naturalists and researchers to film makers and photographers. A wide range of accommodation is available at different zones of the reserve out of which the Dhikala is most sought and furnished with modern amenities for which an advance booking of 60 days is required. Presenting the names of the rest houses available at Jim Corbett.

FRH available at Jim Corbett:

DHIKALA ZONE:

1. Dhikala 2. Sarapduli 3. Sultan 4. Gairal 5, Khinnanauli & 6. Kanda

BIJRANI ZONE:

1. Malani & 2. Bijrani

JHIRNA ZONE:

1. Jhirna

SONANADI WLS:

1. Lohachaur 2. Rathuadhab & 3. Halduparao

Tips to visitors:

1. Delhi to Jim Corbett via Moradabad-Kashipur: 280 KM (6 hrs.)
2. Nearest railway station & Bus Stand: Ramnagar
3. Best time to visit (any time except in rainy season)
4. Advance booking in FRH of your choice will add thrill else easy accommodation available at Ramnagar.
5. Hire a Gypsy available at Reservation Office at Ramnagar on fixed rate.
6. Carry light & dull cotton cloths in summer and light woolens in winter. A compatible camera is a must carry. Binoculars are available on rent (not much required). You may buy a cap with Corbett’s logo as a souvenir.
7. Don’t leave anything in your vehicle unattended, monkey thieves may smartly carry them away in no time.
8. Reach the reservation office very early to obtain passes of your choice.
9. Spotting the Tiger is only by chance and not by choice so don’t feel sad if you can’t make it this time.
10. Last but not the least, don’t spoil the tranquility & always beware that you are in other’s territory so behave with caution and due respect.