Nainital trip during December last year was more enjoyable since our gang of three was in company of Adityo (Sharmi’s brother) and their Ma. Five of us, packed in the car loaded with our usual paraphernalia (which includes everything that we perhaps may and actually may not need during the journey ahead, and its collection is inevitably defined by just one criterion – it should be overflowing); finally made it out on a chilly Delhi morning, to a destination which usually offers chill to Delhites when its scorching back home. We started at 8.30 am (the scheduled departure time of course, was much before that).
Road/ Travel
There are two main routes which can be taken to reach Nainital. I tried both the routes.
Route (A) (onwards) via Tanda, Bajpur – 285 kms by odometer
Route (B) (return) via Kathgodam, Haldwani – 308 kms by odometer.
Route A is definitely preferable, being shorter, lesser traffic, lesser time consumption, better views and almost comparable road conditions vis-à-vis Route B. Moradabad fly-over U-turn is the point where the routes diverge. Route B goes straight down the highway towards Rudrapur. This U-turn point is also approx mid-way point between Delhi and Nainital.
Average time taken is 6-8 hours, depending on halts and work on the pedal.
Directions (Route A) [Onward Trip]:-
Delhi – Gaziabad – Hapur – Garhmukteshwar (Brajghat) – Moradabad flyover [at end of this very long flyover, turn left via a U-turn to follow the road to Jim Corbette NP (well marked), move towards JCNP for about 6-7 kms, then look for a road branching off to right to] – Tanda – Bazpur – Kaladhungi to Nainital.
Road condition is good to moderate till 35 kms short of Nainital, thereafter excellent. Choke point is at Tanda, but better than numerous such points on the alternative route viz., Kathgodam, Haldwani, Rudrapur which also witnesses heavy traffic of trucks, two wheelers, bullock carts and every other thing moving on wheels or feet. (described later).
Road from Delhi to Garhmukteshwar (Brajghat), which is common to both the routes, was disastrous in patches due to numerous constructions of fly-overs along the highway.
Directions (Route B) [Return Trip]:-
I took this route (Nainital – Kathgodam – Haldwani-Rudrapur- Muradabad Flyover – Bajraghat – Hapur – Delhi) on return trip. Roads are excellent from Nainital till Kathgodam. Quality of roads deteriorates thereafter. Even more exasperating is the quality of traffic (which includes every conceivable thing moving across every conceivable direction) leading to clogged highway almost throughout the stretch passing through Haldwani, Bilaspur, Rudrapur, Rampur till Moradabad.
Nainital
- As has been stated elsewhere, apart from the better things, Nainital is also a city of toll taxes. One should be ready to pay toll on each trip into the city, apart from other usual sections.
- Mall Road, starting from Naina Devi temple/ Bhutanese market at Northern end running to Bus Stand on southern end of the lake (a stretch of about 2.5 kms) along the lake’s eastern periphery, is shopper’s area with varieties of fancy but standard stuff shops and eating joints. Look for much vaunted candles of Nainital. Two largish candle outlets are Narayan (?) on Mall Road and Anil Candles next to the Naina temple. Stroll along the Mall Road in evenings are quite enjoyable.
- Northern end of the lake is the most happening place. This area houses Naina Devi temple, Gurudwara, Masjid, Bhutanese market, Car parking, Flats (a large flattened area used as stadium), Snow-view roapway point, roadside stalls, among other things. Road from Kaladungi/Bazpur enters Nainital at this end.
- Bus stand and Cantt area is at the southern end, which is also entry point for road from Haldwani.
- Car parking charges are at a standard rate of Rs 50/- for 24 hours or less in a number of earmarked places.
- Vehicles were not allowed on Mall road between 1800-2000 hrs in December. The vehicle restrictions on Mall Road are more severe during May-Jun. When Mall road is closed to vehicles, a detour can be taken along western periphery of the lake, which entails an additional distance of 5-6 kms and meets up at the bus stand.
- There are 7-8 points along the lake front, mostly on Mall road from where boats, primarily rowing boat with oarsmen (04-05 persons) and self-driven pedal boats (2 & 4 person capacity) can be hired. Charges are fixed and standard.
- Unlike other hill station, Nainital was active till and often beyond 2100 hrs, in terms of buzzing crowds and shops’ activities.
Stay
We stayed at ‘Home Away from Home’ (homeawayfromhomenainital.blogspot.com), a homely affair consisting of a number of rooms (with and without kitchen facility) run by Col. K. K. Dangwal, a retired Army officer. Details of the place along with contact numbers are abundantly available on the net. This efficiently run, ‘honest’ (and one of the best tariffs) set-up is situated at the Southern End of the lake; on the road to Zoo. Car has to be parked on the road short of the home, followed by an ascending walk of less than 100 mtrs (a small price for a grand view of Nainital with its lake). Since we were four adults, we had booked a set with two room and a fully equipped kitchen (Rs 800/- per day, off season rate). This, and another suite (with two rooms, kitchen and indep balcony) are the best options. Availability of the kitchen was especially welcome because with Ma around, who is ever willing to cook the choicest dishes, an operational kitchen is an added bonus. Add to that the Colonel’s friendly persona, who is keenly indulgent with the guests with his encyclopedic local knowledge.
Its already been drawling (Debosh tells me), so details about Nainital and excursions will be covered in the next part.
Thanks.