Kerala backwater is a bewildering labyrinth of waterways, composed of lagoons, lakes, rivers, rivulets, canals, streams and salty seawater. This complex crisscrossing network of brackish lagoons and lakes lie parallel to the Arabian sea coast of the Kerala. It is made up of five large lakes interconnected by numerous canals both man made and natural, fed by 38 rivers. The backwaters are formed as a result of waves creating a short barrier across the mouths of many rivers flowing down from the Western Ghat range. Kerala has around 900 Km of interconnected waterways that make up the backwaters.
Backwaters – the lifeline of the people around are also paradise for the tourists. Traveling in backwaters give glimpses of rural Keralite life style that is completely hidden from the roads. Our plan was to move from Thekkady to Kottayam or Kumarakom and then to cruise from there to Alleppey. Most of the local people and cruise operators discouraged us from going to Kumarakom. Finally we settled for the cruise from Kottayam to Alleppey. Getting an opportunity to cruise through the shimmering backwaters was like a dream about to come true.
We wanted to hire the houseboats. Houseboats or the Kettuvallams (boat with knots) as they are called are the main attraction of these backwaters. Traditionally these boats were used as grain barges to transport the rice grown in the fertile land of backwaters to far-flung areas. Sometimes it took sailors/businessman around 4-5 days and sometimes even a week to move from one place to another. They seldom get time to stop in between and to have their meals. It was a matter of pride and required plenty of culinary skills to cook what was found fresh in the backwater. At some point of time these rice boats were even used by royalty as their living quarters.
Most basic forms of Kettuvallams are the boats created by making a thatched roof over the wooden hulls to cover it from rains and sun. A very unique thing about Kettuvallams is that not a single nail is hammered into them. They are made with wooden planks, joined and stitched together with coir (coconut Fiber) ropes and painted on the outside with cashew nut shell oil or fish oil. Design of Kettuvallam (Houseboats) suggests possible Chinese influence.
Recently, I read an excellant compilation of anthologies about Kerala – “Where the rain is born” edited by Anita Nair. In one of these – The power of one written by Bill Aitken - the author had written in detail that how even one person with dedication,conviction can change things around him. There I came to know about the crucial role of Mr Babu Verghese in the revival of the Kettuvallams. These woven barges had almost gone out of the business, thanks to the faster mode of transports. The craftsmen who built and gave them an annual overhaul were pessimistic about the success of any conversion attempt and Babu Varghese’s first job was to overcome their negativity. The barges had to be redesigned and Babu undertook this task on his own, learning from his mistakes and improving on the last. The Kettuvallam was saved by him. My salute to this Hero. These Kettuvallams are one of the most beautiful site of the  backwaters.
That was the New Year eve and everything was exorbitantly priced. Usual rent of around 4000-5000 Rs one night in the Kettuvallam was skyrocketing to 14000-15000 Rs and even then they were not readily available. But, then it is life. Some dreams come true and others need some more time to be fulfilled. We decided to take the normal cruise of backwater from Kottayam to Alleppey.
We hired a taxi to drive us from Thekkady to Kottayam. It took us around 3 hrs and the drive was very comfortable. Once we reached Kottayam we did our preparation to travel with the kid. We bought ample mineral water and snacks to keep Rachit busy and happy. Generally we avoid buying junk food for him. But there are exceptions when we travel. Sometimes we buy these junkies to give him instant calories and sometimes to keep him in cheerful mode.
Kottayam is headquarters of Malayalam Manorama, regional paper with highest circulation. It is also first district of India to achieve 100% literacy and Arundhuti Roy, author of “God of Small thingsâ€, spent her childhood in a nearby village.
When we were waiting for the arrival of our ship, we noticed that the water around was not clean and that the African moss was growing around. African moss that often carpets the surface of the water bodies may look attractive, but they had killing effects on the fragile ecosystem. It is actually a menace for smaller boats and starves aquatic life of light and oxygen. It is also a symptom of serious ecological imbalances. The population density of this region has increased manifold in recent times. This has put pressure on the land and greater reliance on fertilizers. These fertilizers make their way to water bodies and supplement the growth of moss around.
Soon the ship arrived for boarding. It was a double decker ship. The lower portion was completely covered but the upper portion was covered with the fiber sheet and plastic chairs were kept on the top to enjoy the views. We eagerly occupied the front seats on the upper deck to enjoy the cruise.
The cruise started from narrow lanes of backwaters. There were small settlements on the bank of the canals. We were witnessing life in these small settlements/villages from close quarters. Here and there, we saw basic drawbridges. A few seconds earlier to our ship’s arrival we saw people crossing the bridge. The ship whistled and announced its arrival; the people crossing the bridge were stopped and the bridge was lifted to pave way for ship’s safe passage.
Daily life continues both on the water and palm-fringed shoreline. That was morning time and a few men with their fishing rods were patiently trying out their luck in the backyard of their houses. Some women were busy washing their clothes and pots. The passengers were waiting for water taxi at the stands. Most of the people rely on boatmen to ferry them across the waterways, sometimes simply to cross the canals and sometimes to connect them with roads and railways. These boatmen crisscross waterways from dawn to dusk and earn their livings. Some of the residents living along the backwaters have their own small boats for the same purpose.
Very soon we left the houses and initial settlements behind. The narrow lanes of the canal started to widen. The palm-fringed shores and vast dazzling green paddy fields welcomed us. Our eyes could see the green paddy fields spread far and wide and coconut trees protruding towards and away from canal at strange angles. Sea Gull were sitting on the overhead wires in perfect calmness matching to their serene surroundings.
Earthen embankments surrounded the paddy farms around the backwater. Interestingly farms were below the sea level similar to low land of Netherland (Nether means lower). In both the cases land has been reclaimed from the sea for farming. The fresh water of the backwaters supports the irrigation of these paddy fields.
From wider canals we came to the open lagoons. In the beginning that was a welcome change. Very soon we realized that the cruise was more interesting when we were seeing the human life around us. In open vistas the only relief was the occasional sightings of Kettuvallams. A few Kettuvallams were parked in the corner and were about to start their journey. In the beginning when they were in shallow waters they were propelled by punting with long bamboo poles and were pushed like Gondolas.These floating cottages are powered by engine to provide smooth sail but they are slow moving to let the tourists on board to enjoy and experience the idyllic setting around.
There were two stops in between. At first stop we were served with fresh coconut water that rejuvenated us. Then it was Rachit’s turn to complete the ritual of throwing stones in the world’s water bodies. These stops provided us an opportunity to stretch our legs. Sitting for long time on the deck with restricted movement becomes tiresome. The weather was very humid, as long as the ship moved we enjoyed the cruise but anytime it stopped, it was difficult to remain on-board.
Like all beautiful things come to an end, finally we reached Alleppey and the cruise ended. We took an auto to reach our accommodation – Tharayil Tourist Home. It was a family-run accommodation and was very green. That beautiful place relaxed our tired bodies & after taking lunch we crashed on our beds, dreaming of our fulfilled and unfulfilled dreams – the cruise on backwaters and a star studded night on a Kettuvallam.