The crumbling remains of the Tughlaqabad Fort are reminiscent of its lost grandeur. Ghazi Malik would toss and turn in his grave seeing his dream city in such neglect and disrepair. The fort itself is a desolate place with only a few visitors coming to catch the glimpse of this relic of past. My friends and I arrived at the fort by 7:00 in the morning and we were the first one to buy the tickets. The view of the magnificent façade of the fort from the road got me excited even before I could get inside.
Arches and lush lawn inside the Tomb of Ghyas-ud-Din Tughlaq
First of all we decided to make our way to the Tomb of Ghiyas-ud-Din Tughlaq. The Mausoleum of Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq is connected by a causeway to the southern outpost of the fortification. This elevated causeway leads across a former artificial lake and is nowadays pierced by the Mehrauli- Badarpur road. The complex of Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq’s tomb is entered by a high gateway made up of red sandstone with a flight of steps. When we arrived there, it was early morning with hints of dewdrops on the well manicured lawns inside the tomb structure. The lushness of the lawns was in stark contrast to the bleakness of the exteriors. The tomb in the center is an outstanding structure and the inside acoustics where the three graves are placed is remarkable – your voice gets considerably amplified. The edifice is topped by an elegant dome resting on an octagonal drum that is covered with white slabs of marble.
Gross Neglect - Ruins of the main Fortress which is located opposite the Tomb
After the tomb we headed for the main fortress. Stretching over 6.5 Kms. area, the insides of the fort tells a different story. Thorny bushes, utter ruin and disappearing buildings overtaken by the jungle tells a story of gross neglect and to add to that the scribbling on the walls and still standing structures is the same old story and often familiar sight while visiting monuments in India. I guess lovers are one of the biggest threats to the monuments in India and they should be banned from entering the heritage sites. Well jokes apart, most of the town lies in ruins and here and there invaded by bushes and plants. Only one part of the old city still stands and evokes the sense of lost grandeur and the massive scale at which the city must have been constructed and envisaged by Ghazi Malik.
The massive ramparts, battlements, and the mammoth stonework of this fort speak highly of the engineering skills of the workers who constructed it. The fort served the dual purpose of a defensive structure as well as the imperial capital of Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq, the founder of the Tughlaq dynasty. There are a number of monuments within the precincts of this massive fort.
Light by the end of tunnel - This used to be the soldier's quarter
I took many photographs inside and around the structure. If not for the gloomy Delhi skyline, photos could have been better. But still I took many photographs and was blessed to spot a Yellow Wattled Lapwing and a common Woodpecker. All in all it was a rewarding experience and I’d definitely recommend this place for the serenity pervading its precincts and a definite thumbs up for the fact that it’s not a crowded place like Lodi Garden or Humayun’s Tomb which are almost impossible to visit on weekends. Researching for the stuff about this fort I came across an interesting legend attributed to the Tughlaqabad Fort.
A panoramic view of the fort - the tourists (foreign) seen in the pic were only other visitors beside us and local guys playing cricket inside
There’s an interesting legend associated with the Tughlaqabad Fort. The demise of Tughlaqabad was not brought about by any foreign invasion, but to the curse of a Sufi Saint Nizam-ud-din. The legendary quarrel between the two started when Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq did not allow his people to work for the saint on the construction of a baoli (step well). This angered the saint. A prolonged tiff followed, which offended the saint and led to his famous prophecy “Hunuz Dilli dur ast” (Delhi is yet far away), for the sultan was then out in Bengal. He made another ominous reference to the sultan’s fort when he remarked “Ya rahe usar, ya basé Gujjar” (Either it remains deserted or be peopled by men of the Gujjar tribe). Both these prophecies proved true. Ghiyas-ud-din was killed at a place near Delhi when a shamiana (canopy, marquee) collapsed over him during a reception arranged by his son. The sultan could not reach Delhi alive. His successor chose to build his own fort and deserted Tughlaqabad. It soon became a haunt for the Gujjars tending their cattle within the abandoned fort of Ghiyas-ud-din.
We were fortunate to spot and capture (just in camera) this Yellow Wattled lapwing - She did her best to avoid publicity though
A bee collecting nectar - Couldn't resist posting this here although the pic was taken outside the fortress same day in Indraprastha Park which was teeming with flowers
Bee Eater - There were plenty but they were camera-shy