In the long dark winter of 2009 while returning from Kanyakumari (where I was born) to Lucknow (Where I now live)we had to break Journey at Jhansi in Uttar Pradesh for 2 days. Looking for ways to pass the time we heard that the ancient city built by the kings of Bundelkhand was nearby. The city is called Orchha.
Orccha is located in the Madhya Pradesh side of Bundelkhand on the Betwa river about 15 kms from the famous junction of Jhansi – so if you ever get to see Jhansi don’t miss this town. Khajuraho is pretty close but might take an extra day.Orccha it is said was founded by the Bundela Rajput chieftain, Rudra Pratap who built his capital here. It seems this town and neighboring Datia were the only Bundela towns that were not defeated by the Mughals during their invasion. Rudra Pratap chose this site for the town as it was not easily approachable – the name Orccha means Hidden.
The Orccha fort complex consists of the Sheesh Mahal which has been taken over by MP tourism which maintains premium accommodation there (You get to stay in the same bed room as the Mughal Emperor Jahangir did – I did ask an American tourist there how the rooms were. She said it was wonderful.), The raja Mahal which was the original palace built by Rudra Pratap. The palace is divided into tow wings and 5 floors (one long climb to the top – worth the view as you get a birds eye view of the Beta from the top) and has a lot of original paintings depicting the lives of Lord Rama and Krishna.
The Jahangir Mahal was built exclusively for King Jahangir and consists of exquisite carvings, sculptures and paintings and a central ribbed dome. Some of the original coloured tiles are visible even today.
The Dauji ki Kothi is located to the south of the Jahangir mahal and is the residenc of the ministers and court staff of the king. Here also exquisite carvings and neatly adorned gates can be seen.
Orccha has a rich and splendid heritage. The Chatrubhuj temple is located just across the betwa from the fort. The temple has an interesting story. It seems Lord Ram appeared in dream of the then ruler Madhukar Shah. The ruler subsequently brought an idol of Lord Ram and placed it in the Raja Ram temple (A castle then) before installing it into a temple. However, when the time of installation approached, the idol refused to move from its present place.The Chaturbhuj temple in Orchha was the original destination of the idol of Lord Ram.
Orchha is easily approachable due to its proximity to Jhansi. However apart from the Orccha Resort and the MP Tourism Sheesh Mahal, economy accommodation is more or less available only in Jhansi. Licensed guides are available at the gate entrance. During offseason rates can be negotiated with them. Most of the guiding is done in Hindi and English speaking guides may not be available. My post on the Jhansi Fort is still in the making and will be posted soon.