Akbar is often remembered as a liberal ruler who expanded Mughal Empire to the vast region but his lust for women is lesser known. The royal complex of Fatehpur Sikri was witness to his typical Mughal attitude towards women. The number of women in his harem increased with every victorious expedition. The defeated kings and nobles were forced to gift their most beautiful daughters, who together with their maidservants were installed in Royal Zenana. Akbar collected and amassed women like an antique collector. At its height of splendor the royal harem at Fatehpur had around 5000 women, guarded by an army of eunuchs and no man was allowed inside. Akbar counted Hindu, Muslim and even Christians among his wives. These women were brought from all corners of his kingdom and even from far away places like Russia, Afghanistan, Turkey, Iran and Tibet. There is even mention of a Portuguese woman gifted to him.
I read a book “Goli†by Acharya Chatursen. This novel details the life inside Zenana Dyodi of Rajput kings; situation in Mughal harem should be similar. King’s arrival to the harem was often a reason for celebrations and usage of drugs and liquor was very common among its inmates.
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Some of the women in Harem were very powerful and rich too. It is believed that during Jahangir’s rule, Nurjahan managed empire from Harem. Jahangir was mostly too drunk to manage the daily affairs. As a result of money and power at some women’s disposal, jealousies in the harem was also rife. The work of maintaining law and order among all of Akbar’s wives, minor wives, their kaneez and baandis, paramours, musicians, dancers & whatnot was major preoccupation. It was noted by Abul Fazal that the government of the kingdom was an amusement compared with such a task. I don’t think anybody would disagree.
The house of Turkish Sultana is on the left hand side of the Pachisi court That building is thought to be palace of one of Akbar’s favorite wife, Sultana Ruqayya Begum. The building had one large room surrounded by pillars with beautiful designs of trees and flowers. The design on the pillars and walls of the room, built with redstone, was so minute and delicate as if done on wood.
This design is also showing some chinese influence.
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Another intricately carved panel.
A carved pillar outside the house of Turkish Sultana.
On one side of the house of the Turkish Sultana, is Anup Talao, a pretty tank. In its center was balustrade platform approached by four causeways supported on narrow stone pillars. It was intended for imperial amusement and private functions. During Akbar’s reign it was filled with perfumed water.
It is said that sitting on central platform, Akbar’s another Nauratna & greatest composer musician in Hindustani classical music, Mian Tansen would perform different ragas at different times of day, and the Emperor and his select audience would honour him with coins. Legend is that on Akbar’s continuous insistence Tansen once sang Deepak raga sitting on the dais of this platform. Deepak raga is a raga of Indian classical music that generates so much heat that can even light candles but the heat generated could be fatal for the performer. He was successful in lighting the candles but he himself grew hotter and hotter. In order to save his father from burning, his daughter, Saraswati Devi, performed Megha Malhar Raga . It is a Raga associated with rains. Understandably, nervous at this great responsibility, she faltered on the seventh note of the scale and this deviation from main note is called “Mian ki Malhar†– one of the famous and stirrings raga. Finally, she succeeded in bringing the desired effect; rain fell and cooled down master performer’s body and soul.
Facing Anup Talo from other side of gardens were Akbar’s private quarters – Deewan-Khana-I-Khaas / Daulat Khana or the khawabghah. This imperial residential complex was composed of two rooms on the ground floor and a well-ventilated pavilion on the first floor. The room on the ground floor was the Emperor’s library, where he would be read to from a collection of 50,000 manuscripts. Akbar was an illiterate, but he had enormous interest in books. He was very possessive about his books and allegedly took them with him wherever he went. On side note I feel that the “Daulatkhana†is a perfect name for library. On this lower portion there was raised platform and it is believed that this was the place where Akbar slept. Behind the platform there were stone jaalis & women of his harem came through this passage and met him. The platform was very high and I felt that without a ladder it was not possible to go over it. Either there was a stairs that are now removed or may be for Emperor’s safety a ladder was put when he wanted to sleep, which was removed later on.
The gang enjoying the beautiful views of anup Talao from the pavilion
From here we moved towards Akbar’s main harem – Jodhabai’s Palace. Rani Jodhabai was daughter of the king of Amber. It was through this high profile marriage Akbar secured his alliance with the fierce Rajputs. The palace blends traditional Islamic architecture with Hindu elements from Gujarat and Rajasthan. It had a very big courtyard with many rooms around it. On north and south sides there was a thatched roof kind of structure that was tiled in blue color bricks. The Hindu wives of Akbar used it as their worship place. It is also believed by some that this was Akbar’s main harem that might be wrongly attributed as Jodhabai’s Palace.
I peeped into one room, it was perfectly dark, no provision for any light. I am writing this to emphasize the kind of accommodations women in harem used to live in. On lighter note, with the kind of news we get on 24 hours news channel I would not be surprised if one day TV channels would reach there and show us the dark rooms as evidence that Maharani Jodhabai was a photographic enthusiast and those were the dark rooms where she developed them.
View of Jodhabai’s Palace
From Jodhabai’s Palace when we moved to Birbal’s palace, we saw the Turkish bath.
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Birbal Palace fronts into the lower Haramsara. This is not clear that why this building was called Birbal’s palace. This building was an integral part of Akbar’s harem. So it’s unimaginable that Birbal lived in this area. Most probably Akbar’s senior queen Salima Sultan Begum lived in this house.
Lower Haramsara – In the beginning this large colonnaded structure was thought to be camel, elephant and horse stable. Now it is believed that this place was probably intended for housing the servicing maids of the ladies harem. The stone rings in evidence there were used for partitioning the space by fixing curtains rather than to fetter pachyderm as believed earlier.
From Lower Haramsara we moved out of the Royal complex and after removing our shoes entered the mosque complex through Shahi Darwaza. The tourists need to pay entrance fee for Royal and Public complex, but the mosque complex is free. We passed through “Zenana Rauza†tomb of royal family and then we were shown a small tunnel and our guide claimed that that tunnel was going till Agra & was used by Akbar in case of emergencies. As there was no official notice that claim fell on deaf ears. In most of the forts and Palaces there are such claims, whose authenticity is difficult to prove.
In the northern part of the Mosque complex is the superb white marble Dargah of Sheikh Salim Chisti. Before entering into it we had an eyeful of the vast cloistered courtyard of Mosque complex.
One has to cover his head before entering into the tomb. At the entrance we were given caps to put on our head. The lattice screens in this tomb are among the most beautiful and intricate in the world with striking serpentine designs done on marble.
View from one such screen.
Another lattice screen.
The Dargah still attracts many childless women, who come here to pray for offspring tying strings on to the marble screens, just as Akbar came to the saint praying for a son four centuries ago.
Jama-Masjid – Fatehpur Sikri’s mosque also known as Dargah mosque is said to be a copy of the mosque at Mecca. It is also a Sufi shrine as it houses the tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti; this makes it unique.
The main approach to this complex is through 54 m high Buland Darwajah. This gate was constructed to commemorate Akbar’s victory in Gujarat. The Mosque complex can be approached through this gate after climbing an impressive flight of steps.
It may be world’s tallest door.
The imposing Buland Darwajah as viewed from Sheikh Salim Chisti’s tomb.
It was time to return. For around 4 hours we were living in the bygone era – getting glimpses of Akbar’s life. We moved from Royal complex to the Mosque complex and it was like moving from imperial grandeur to spiritual simplicity. The courtyard was live with the devotees, the tourists, the vendors and the guides. Even with so many people around us there was serenity, peace and a general feeling of joy and happiness. An effect that could be contributed to the prayers in the air, the setting sun that always leaves one in philosophical mood or may be it was due to our satisfaction to see and enjoy this beautiful place. We slowed our pace, started to relax and left the place in tranquil mood.
I would like to end this post with the beautiful and soul stirring message inscribed in calligraphy on Buland Darwazah – The World is a Bridge, pass over it, but build no houses upon it. He who hopes for a day may hope for eternity; but the World endures but an hour. Spend it in prayer, for the rest is unseen.
Make some wonderful family memories and book the Orlando holidays 2011. Your children will remember the excitement of a visit to Disney World, the Universal Studios, Sea World and Wet n' Wild for a long time.