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Mylai – Some things dont change (thankfully)

This might not actually fit into a “travellogue” per se, but its worth a mention. The first time that I am actually writing about a specific area in chennai :-). Whats it all about?

City of Chennai, bustling with activities right from 4AM till about 12 midnight. The silence of the early morning broken by devotional songs and the clutters of the milk containers as they are carried by the Milkman doing rounds of the houses. Sounds pretty much like a village story , rite? Well..Thats one part of this landmark place in chennai called “Mylapore” aka “Mylai”.

Mylapore is one of the religous landmark in Chennai. If you happen to be here early morning during any of the festive season, you can see colorful “Kolams” (Similar to Rangoli), of varying sizes, in front of houses. During special days, the deity is taken in procession on the adjoining streets (commonly known as “agraharam”).

Mylai is known for the famous “Kapalishwara” (Lord Shiva) temple, which is one of the destinations if you were on a sight-seeing trip of chennai.

Also, a number of “sabhas” can be found in Mylapore. “Sabhas” are places which promote music and upcoming artists. Carnatic concerts are conducted regularly at these ‘Sabhas’ and these are THE place to be in the month of December and January, when it rains music in chennai and various distinguished/upcoming musicians from all ove rthe world come down to exhibit their talent.(More on this later)

One other famous place is “Mylai Karpagambal Mess”. This was started 40 yrs back and going strong till date.I got introduced to this place in 1996 and been a regular since then.


The place is not a fancy one, as in , does not have the looks of modern restaurants. It looks like a house-converted-to-an-hotel and the ambience is ‘homely’ and food is hygenic. The (south indian) dishes are served on a plantain leaf (cant use spoon for eating Dosa:-) ). My regular is “keera Vada”, “Kichadi” and ofcourse the ghee Dosa.. yummmm.. Sambhar and chutney are not served in ‘Kathoris’ as done in the normal restaurant. Instead, the helper comes around with a big bucket as and when required :-)

The famour Marina beach is 10 mins from Mylapore. One can catch the rising sun coming over the Bay of Bengal. Pretty wonderful sight early in the morning.

Next time you visit chennai, you know where to go , right???

So long then :-)

Mylai – Some things dont change (thankfully) was last modified: February 16th, 2023 by Karthik
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