Part I covered our journey from New Delhi to Uttarkashi, during May 10. Our first night halt was at Rishikesh (220 kms from New Delhi). On Day-2 evening we were at Uttarkashi. After spending two days there, we moved on towards Gangotri. Let me mention over here, Gangotri opens for a specific period of the year (like other three Dhams). This year, the doors (pat) of temple opened from 16 May (after about a week of our visit) and will remain so till Deepavali. My description here, therefore, is a non-season affair. Once the season starts, visitors of all shades reportedly swarm the places / routes.
Next, I would say this – the road until Gnagotri is very good (except a small patch, which I cover later). Any type of car can comfortably make its way till Gangotri. I emphasise the point because before departure, all my reports indicated that roads beyond Uttarkashi may be a little un-doable. We had, in fact, also factored-in the possibility of leaving our car at Uttarkashi and hiring a vehicle to move further.
Gangotri shrine, dedicated to Goddess Ganga, is more of a notional/spiritual source of Ganga than a real one. The glacier mouth is further beyond, at Gaumukh (which is 18 kms trekking distance away from Gangotri and sadly, the glacier goes on receding farther every year). Furthermore, Ganga of Gangotri is actually Bhagirathi (one of the important tributaries of Ganga). Bhagirathi meets up with Alaknanda at Devprayag to form Ganga. Alaknanda, on its way to Devprayag, is met by Mandakini at Rudraprayag. In fact, there are five confluence points of tributaries of Ganga, which are together known as Panch Prayag, viz, Devprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag, Nandprayag and Vishnuprayag. One will come across all the five prayags, if driving to Badrinath. Two of them, (Rudraprayag and Devprayag) will come your way if you drive towards Kedarnath.
Uttarkashi – Harsil (73 kms) :-
Tanking up the car, we left Uttarkashi by 12.15 pm. The road to Gangotri passes through Maneri, Bhatwari, Gangnani and Harsil. Between Bhatwari (28 kms from Uttarkashi) and Gangnani, there is a bad patch due to ongoing construction. The patch lasts for precisely 13 kms, wherein the road conditions vary from dirt track to bare stony variety – the patch is drivable in a car, though it tends to restrict the speed.
However, before and after this patch, the roads are mostly in very good condition.
Gangnani is known for its hot water spring.
The view all around, as one travels along the Bhagirathi, is awesome. Here I would mention one point, though. Unlike other hilly terrains in Himachal, Kumaon or even Southern part of Garhwal for that matter, the landscapes on this route appeared somewhat less wooded. Forestation, however, increases as one nears Harsil/Gangotri. Thoroughly enjoying the scenery with swooping ranges and changing facets of Bhagirathi as she makes her way across the Himalayas, we reached Harsil by 4.00 pm.
Another point, duly recorded by Debosh – on this stretch (Uttarkashi-Gangotri ), in comparison to all our journeys across parts of Himalayas, we came across the MAXIMUM NUMBER OF STREMS . They include both varieties – the ones where the streams fall along the mountain on banks of the road and then disappear (perhaps under the road); and the ones where the stream belligerently crosses the road through stony cracks.
From somewhere after Bhatwari, we also faced spells of heavy rains. The rains persisted for the next two days, though in typical hill style – it would rain heavily in the evenings but sky became clear and sunny in the mornings.
Harsil (7860 ft/2400 mtrs ASL) :-
Harsil is a small, extremely scenic and not much explored hamlet located on the banks of Bhagirathi, encircled by snow-capped peaks. It is central to a number of treks routes in the area, apart from being the entry point to Kinnaur Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh. Our decision to stay in Harsil was based on these facts and that Gangotri is mere 30 kms from here.
Harsil, situated on the left side of the road reachable after a small detour, has very limited stay options – GMVN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) Tourist Rest House (01377-232210), PWD Inspection House located next to GMVN TRH (both situated on the western banks of Bhagirathi), Hotel Madhuban and Hotel Skylark(?). One point for GMVN TRH/ PWD – the parking area is around 500 mtrs away. The boys of GMVN are generally willing to lug the luggage, for a price.
For more stay options, one should check out Dharali, a largish township 2 kms ahead of Harsil, which has Hotel Anchal (01377 – 232237), Hotel Shivalik (01377 – 232242) and a number of other such hotels.
Thanks to rains, and our unpreparedness this time, we were struck hard by the freezing cold of Harsil. Due to lack of appropriate clothing, we were forced to put on two layers of dress and I was reduced to using Sharmi’s dupatta as muffler. This, despite provision of generous & heavy blankets. I was told that some amount of warm clothing is required throughout the summers.
Harsil draws its name from Harsingh (a type of dear with majestic horns). The southern peaks overlooking Harsil are shaped like Harsingh horns and therefore the name.
One curious fact – there is a waterfall in Harsil named Mandakini jharna. How come? – You may ask; I mean, Mandakini waterfall should have been in/around Rudraprayag or, conversely, the one here should have been Bhagirathi jharna. Well, the earthly realm of Geography here has been swamped by fantastical might of Bollywood. Actually, sizeable part of Raj Kapur’s ‘Ram Teri Ganga Maili’ was shot in Harsil and the famous jharna scene of Mandakini was shot under this particular waterfall, which now bears her name.
Another info – leopard sightings do happen in the area. The caretaker informed that just about two weeks back, a group of guests came across a leopard crossing the road. The guests, understandably, were thereafter in unusual hurry to head back home.
Gangotri (10,300 ft / 3140 mtrs ASL) :-
The next day, we made much awaited trip to Gangotri. Harsil to Gangotri is comfortable 1 to 1.30 hr drive on good roads. Apart from Dharali which offers a number of private stay options, there are a few locations viz Lanka, Bhairoghati etc en-route where GMVN has limited staying arrangements. Gangotri, of course has a wide array of guest houses/dharmsahla.
Entrance to Shrine area is through an arched gate, the last point for vehicles. Upon entering the gate, a narrow road reaches the shrine after about 5-600 mtrs. This road, along left side of Bhagirathi, typically houses variety of shops, restaurants, guesthouses, dharamshala, etc on either side. Another large and more elaborate set-up of guesthouses/ dharmshala is to be found on other side of the river, accessible through a pedestrian bridge across the river
The temple is located at the end of this road, which has a large courtyard and elaborate ghat. Location of the temple is very picturesque, amidst high mountains, watched by Gomukh glacier in the east. Bhagirath Shila, where King Bhagirath is believed to have performed his famed saadhna to bring Ganga from heaven to earth, is located within the compounds.
Water at the ghat is sheer divine – what else can the gangajal at Gangotri be? The surge of pristine streams, straight from the Gaumukh glacier visible ahead – well, it sure is capable of redeeming all the sinners of all the worlds. The water was ice cold and we could not dip hand/feet for more than a few seconds. The place was even more enjoyable since there were very few visitors at that time.
For those, who want to visit Gangotri but avoid rush of the season – the deity is shifted to Mukhawa temple, between Dharali/Harsil, after the doors of Gangotri are closed for the season. Therefore, it is not a bad idea to visit Gangotri in off-season and pay obeisance to the deity at Mukhawa temple.
During season, parking may be a problem for self-driven vehicles in Gangotri – so my advice would be to stay in a place like Harsil/Dharali/Lanka, etc and make local arrangement for visit from there.
Beyond Gangotri, one has the option to trek down to Gaumukh. Guides are available aplenty in Gangotri, for charge like Rs 2500/- per person for a two-day trekking trip. However, keep sufficient time margins, because trekking in this area needs clearance from local authorities and they have a restriction on number of clearances.
Once again, the drive to this dham is immensely doable and equally pleasurable.
Have a nice visit.