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AMARNATH YATRA : Patnitop – Pahalgam (Most Beautiful town of my life) |
To read the series from start please click here.
My actual Amarnath Yatra has started in this post, because I will reach the destination here which is called Pahalgam which is quite important as far as yatra is concerned . I will tell you its importance as we proceed. Hence from here I have named this series as Amarnath Yatra.
Patnitop to Jawahar Tunnel
After enjoying around 30 good minutes in Patnitop we marched forward towards our journey to Pahalgam. After Patnitop we again had to climb down the ghat around 1000 meters and entered Chenab Valley.Rivers between mountains always fascinate me and I have only one wish that is to bath in it. But not the right time. Right time will come in this tour. But right now just look at the colour of Chenab river ( light green). Again heat started to build up from here and from here our journey was terrible . Around 2-3 hours I was soaked in the sun . I felt like a worker working near open furnace continuously for 3 hours with sun right on the top of the head. And there was no AC in the car. I had never imagined that I would felt something like this in Jammu and Kashmir 1000 m above sea level. Even in Sahyadris Maharashtra , Lonavla ( 600 m) near Mumbai is always pleasant. This was too much for me. Each each minute was going like an hour.
Ramban, a very noisy and crowded town came in between and thereafter we again started to climb up. Just before Ramban , we had lunch in one of the Vaishno Dhabas. The lunch was fantastic. But after the lunch my driver wasted some time in repairing his spare tyre which was punctured . He wasted around 45 minutes more here in Ramban which was adding to frustration due to heat. And then afterwards while driving we came to know that he was waiting for his friend to come in another car with another set of passengers to Srinagar. Now I can’t understand mentality of drivers here why they wanted to meet and go together. They were not going to talk as they were in different cars. The destinations were different ours was Pahalgam and their was Srinagar, then why our driver waited for his friend I still don’t know. Till Anantnag our cars were together and then we parted ways from there. No sense here but we wasted a good 45 minutes in this .
Chenab River near Ramban :- The colour of Chenab river was greensish brown
Chenab River
For around one half hour in ghats, besides the tribuatries of Chenab and Chenab, in Chenab valley, at around 4.30 pm, we came to a Jawahar tunnel which was around 2.5 km in length which changed complete scene . The tunnel is maintained by Beacon. Once in side the tunnel the driver has to maintain a constant speed throughout the tunnel.
Project Beacon :- Jawahar Tunnel in front ( 2.5 km changes everything)
Jawahar Tunnel to Anantnag, Anantnag to Pahalgam
After crossing this tunnel , we came from Jammu valley to Kashmir valley and temperature directly dropped from 40 to 25 which I found quite amazing . Heat completely vanished within 2.5 kms and climate became pleasant . Manu Tyagi had told me about this great mountain and tunnel before that climate changes after the crossing the tunnel but I didn’t believe much. But yes the climate completely changed which was huge relief for me. After around few kilometers crossing the Jawahar Tunnel, I had first view of Kashmir valley from a point called Titanic View Point.
Amazing views from here
Just see some breadth taking views from here . Imagine the below place fully covered with snow in the winter with some green Deodhar trees in between. And imagine same place covered with flowers of all colors in one month of spring. Completely green till my eyes stretched as far I could. Heavy cool breeze touching my ears and telling me ” Welcome to Kashmir”. I was just flat looking at greenery and feeling the climate. I wanted to stay here some more time , but had no choice, but to leave. Lot of people were just staying here at Titanic View point enjoying the views , some feeling the climate , some having chat with each other, few smoking and others like me enjoying the beauty and clicking pictures .” OH YES. I WILL DEFINITELY COME TO KASHMIR ONCE IN SPRING AND ONCE IN WINTER IN MY LIFETIME “. These were initial thoughts when I first saw Kashmir Valley from Titanic point.
Titanic View Point
One View from Titanic point :- Jammu – Srinagar Highway just after jawahar tunnel
Lush Green Kashmir Valley from Titanic View Point ( full zoom)
In Indian state J& K, Actual Kashmir starts from here . (Anantnag District starts from Titanic View point.)
Then after few kms we reached Qazigund, a small town, which is called Gateway to Kashmir where we have to pay the toll of rs. 70 for using this highway and in Qazigund we bought some fruits like red and yellow plums , apples which were very helpful in our yatra to Amarnath.Then again after few kms , we reached Anantnag. From Anantnag, we left Jammu Srinagar highway and diverted to road on Pahalgam. Pahalgam is 43 kms from Anantnag. From Anantnag, Lidder river follows us till Pahalgam then Chandanwadi and then Sheshnaag. In my life I wanted to see many rivers like Ganges, Yamuna, Narmada , Brahmaputra etc. And with God’s grace I saw many of these. But frankly speaking till now I have never seen so beautiful river in my life ( though I have not seen them from places like Gaumukh , yamnotri glacier etc.). Lush green clear mineral water flowing surrounded by green mountains having a huge natural gushing sound with village children enjoying bathing in it all the way and freedom from all worries and tension. That was the impression of Lidder river when I first saw it. I want to bath inside it.Hills and rivers fascinate me a lot.
Lidder river
Lidder is the most beautiful river, I have ever seen
And before reaching the great and beautiful town Pahalgam, I would like to tell you why was I here.
A short legend on Amarnath Yatra which I have heard from many years
In Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva is the destroyer, the lord of all five elements, the ascetic god who meditates on a deer skin. He also wears a garland made of human heads (Munda Mala). Legend has it that Devi Parvati (Shiva’s wife) asked him why he wears the garland of heads. To this he replied that every time Parvati dies, a head gets added to the garland and hence it continues to grow. Parvathi then wanted to know the secret of his immortality.
Shiva was reluctant to divulge the secret of his immortality to Parvati, but he had to give in to the incessant pressure exerted by his wife. Therefore they set out to a secluded place where Shiva could divulge the secret of immortality or the Amar Katha to Parvati.
It is believed that Lord Shiva first left behind Nandi (Bull) his vehicle at Pahalgam, hence the real name Bail-Gaon. It is therefore believed that one must start from Pahalgam ( Bail-Gaon) onwards as the lord started his yatra here. Next part of the story I will tell you as I travel along each and every place where Lord Shiva and Devi Parvati had been visited.
Discovery of Holy Cave
The story narrated by people about the discovery of this holy secret cave is of shepherd named Buta Malik . He is given the credit of discovering this secret cave . Story goes like this, that a saint gave Buta Malik a bag full of coal. On reaching his home when he opened the bag , to his sheer surprise the bag was full of gold coins . This made him overwelmed with joy. He ran to thank the Saint . But, what he found was that the saint had disappeared. Instead, he found the holy cave and ice shiv lingam there. He announced the discovery of this to the Villagers. Then onwards this has become the sacred place of pilgrimage .
The ancient epics narrate an other story which goes like this. The valley of Kashmir was under water. It was a big lake. Kashyap Rishi drained the water through number of rivers and streams. In those days Bhrigu Rishi came that way on a visit to the Himalyas. He was the first to have sight of this holy Cave . When people heard of the shivling, then Amarnath for them became Shiva’s abode and a centre of pilgrimage . Since then Lakhs of devotees perform the pilgrimage through tough terrain and avail eternal happiness.
By the main ice shivling’s side are fascinating, two more ice lingams, that of Devi Parvati and of their son, Lord Ganesha .
Pahalgam or Srinagar ?
About an hour later from Anantnag , we reached Pahalgam. As soon as we reached Pahalgam there was gate and security check. While having our security check I and Sonali decided that we are not going to Srinagar . We had one day extra after our Amarnath Yatra. Seeing just the glimpse of Pahalgam, we decided not to go Srinagar and rest or enjoy in Pahalgam itself , that much were we impressed on our first look at Pahalgam. Beautiful green Lidder river, High mountains covered with pine trees, fresh cool breeze, massive green gardens filled with flowers of all colors and fragrances are . Apart from it it had wonderful market for shopping Kashmiri items like shawls , handicrafts etc. But the biggest plus point was climate, atmosphere and scenes. Also our driver told that Srinagar was hot. So Srinagar was dropped and we decided to have a rest day in Pahalgam after the Amarnath Yatra .Our decision was absolutely right that I will share in coming posts. We finished scanning our luggage and went further to actual Pahalgam . Our driver showed us Amarnath base camp in Pahalgam. But we had to keep our mighty lugguage down and travel to the Amarnath Cave. So we decided to stay in the Hotel.
Pahalgam Entrance
Glimpse of beautiful Pahalgam – Lidder river,mountains, Pine trees and greenery, houses besides the Lidder river
Hotel Selection
We asked our driver about the hotel. He said that they will be available for rs. 1200/night. I thought he is just convincing me so that he can make some comission out of it. We reached Pahalgam main bazaar which is little expensive, but then driver took to Pahlagam village 1 km further towards Chandanwadi where he showed us some hotels in a range of rs. 1200 / 1400. Rooms were ok but no one was there. All were locked. As I was going to visit the cave on last 5 days the crowd had vanished. So everything was empty I thought if I get anything in a range of Rs. 600 – 800 it would be OK. There were lot of hotels in line and I started asking hotel for rs. 400/ night. No one was willing to give and driver told me no one is going to give in rs. 400 . Rates in the season are Rs. 1200 to rs. 1400. I told lets see.
I wandered two more and then one small boy came to me and asked me in a very polite way ” साहब एक बार मेरी जगह देख लो. ” ( please look at my place once.) His politeness attracted , and I went with him to his Hotel . As soon I had first glance on his Hotel I thought Oh! no this is a hut . That Hotel was looking very shabby from outside with no proper name plate and roof was made up of Asbestos sheets. I still went inside to see how it was and to my surprise , it was the best one I had seen among the four which I had seen. I immediately decided to say yes and told him that I am going to give only rs. 400. he immediately said Sir 500. I said no 400 means 400. Thats it. From that point he readily agreed . My job was done in rs. 400. How lucky I was and to tell you that room was amazing considering its cost. The bags which I was suppose to keep in cloak room were negotiated on Rs. 20 / bag. I was lucky. I will show you the Hotel pics in my Pahalgam Post.
Finally we all were inside our room tired. We kept our luggage and it wa salready 8.00 pm and we had to still dine. So we decided to move quickly to Hotel. Mean while coming to Pahalagam we had seen one wonderfully lit temple on the way . So we decided to have a look at it and then dine.
So on the way to main bazaar we went to the temple . It was the famous Gauri Shankar temple of Pahlagam which also comes in its sight seeing list.
The vision of the temple was like colorfully lit beautiful hut with a kalash and gopuram at the entrance. And inside Lord Shiva and Devi Parvati were present in the form of beautiful shivalinga. Just have a look below.
Gaurishankar Shivaling
Gaurishankar Temple
Besides the temple , there was a bhandara from Lucknow. This Bhandara’s president was a Sikh and his name was Sardar Amar Singh Sethi and entire Bhandara was funded by him. And this was Bhandara’s last day. Now this was the sign that this yatra is done and supported by people of all castes and religions. I congratulated him but with no ego and attitude he said this entire thing is done by Lord Shiva and not him. He told ” सब भोलेनाथ करते है , मैं तो कुछ नहीं.” .Tears were just about to role from my eyes seeing his dedication but some how I managed to hold them.
केवल कुछ आदमी के पुण्य इतने होते है , के इस जग के अनगिनत व्यक्तियों के पापों को अकेले ही संतुलित करते है. इसलिए यह जग चल रहा इन जैसे महान आत्माओ की वजह से.
We decided to have food here . And yes it was our first prasad ( offering ) of Lord Amarnath.
Food (Prasad of Lord Amarnath) we ate on first Bhandara
Thanks a lot , Sardar Amar Singh Sethi jee, we owe you.
After that we went to Hotel were tired and then slept .In next post I will start my most anticipated Amarnath yatra from Pahalgam. Till then
Jay Bhole
To read the next post in the series please click here .
Dear Readers if you want to read my other Yatras with more pictures PLEASE CLICK BELOW
JAMMU AND KASHMIR: PAHALGAM , VAISHNO DEVI
GUJARAT : SOMNATH AND DWARKA ( 2010 & 2012 )
MAHARSHTTRA : BHIMASHANKAR , TRIMBAKESHWAR , GRISHNESHWAR , DAULATABAD FORT
MADHYA PRADESH : UJJAIN , OMKARESHWAR AND DEWAS
KASHI YATRA : VARANASI , PRAYAG AND CHITRAKOOT
KARNATAKA : GOKARNA , UDUPI , MURUDESHWAR , SIRSI
विशाल जी,
बहुत अच्छा यात्रा विर्तांत चल रहा है. चेनाब नदी में स्नान करने की इच्छा, पर पहाड़ पर इस नदी का वेग बहुत तेज होता है. आपको सरदार अमर सिंह सेठी का भंडारा पसंद आया, बहुत अच्छा लगा. अब शायद आप अमृतसर ट्रेन में गलत टिकेट वाले भाई साहिब की बेबकूफी भूल गए होंगे.
धन्यवाद
यात्रा विवरण, बिल्कुल सजीव वर्णन,
क्या बात है स्वर्ण मन्दिर के बाद भी सरदारों से लगाव कि पहलगाँव में भी उनका भण्डारा ही मिला। वैसे इस यात्रा में देखा होग कि कितने शानदार भण्डारे लगाये जाते है बिल्कुल शादी वाले पण्डाल जैसे।
अब हुई अमरनाथ यात्रा की शुरुआत, जय भोले नाथ, आगे-आगे देखते है होता है क्या?
Enjoying your series ………….eagerly waiting for the coming posts.
On Badrinath route , between Chamoli & Goind Ghat you will langer at every couple of kms, after that you will not able to find even a single one don’t ask me why ? :-)
Thanks Surinderjee , Sandeep Bhai , Maheshjee and all other readers for going through my posts.
@ Surinderjee :- सुरिंदरजी क्या बताऊँ मुझे और मेरी बेटी आर्या को नदी देखते ही बस नहाने कि इच्छा हो जाती है. इसका मौका हमें कही बार मिला और कभी चुके नहीं . सोमनाथ में त्रिवेणी, द्वारका में गोमती, प्रयाग में संगम, ओम्कारेश्वर में नर्मदा , उजैन में क्षिप्रा आदि. बहुत नदी में स्नान करने का मौक़ा मिला है . लेकिन पहाड़ी नदी में नहीं. और यहाँ नहाने कि इच्छा बहुत थी.
@ Sandeep :- नहीं संदीप भाई मैंने भंडारे देखे और इससे भी अच्छे और बड़े भंडारे देखे . लेकिन जो विनम्रता अमर सिंघजी में थी वह प्रशंसनीय है. मैं दूसरों के बारे में तो नहीं जानता , लेकिन इन साहब में ज़रा भी अहंकार नहीं था.
@ Mahesh jee :- Thanks I will enjoy those Langars.
Vishalji, I am thoroughly enjoying my virtual trip with you. It is becoming a thesis paper on Amarnath yatra.
Fantastic…. Your description of Jawahar Tunnel and the change of scenery gave me goosebumps… The adventure begins….. Waiting for the next part….
block buster. congrats 4 my feature story of the month.
thanks vishal
Thanks Sunandajitjee, Aditya and Parveenjee
@ Aditya :- Adventure begins from next one
विशाल जी…. जय भोले की….जय बाबा अमरनाथ की
यह श्रृंखला आपकी बहुत बढ़िया चल रही हैं………… बहुत सजीव वर्णन और खूवसूरत फोटोओ से सजीव चित्रण | जवाहर टनल से मैं भी एक बार अपनी कश्मीर यात्रा के समय गुजर चुका हूँ….हमारे देश का गौरब है यह सुरंग ….आपने सही कहा कि सुरंग पार करने के बाद यहाँ की फिजा ही बदल जाती हैं और लगता हैं जन्नत में आ गए हो जैसे ….हाँ यही है कश्मीर जिसे धरती का स्वर्ग कहते हैं | पहलगाँव में होटल ढूढने का वर्णन आपने विस्तार से लिखा जो मुझे पसंद आया | अंत में भंडारे वाले सरदार अमर सिंह सेठी को धन्यवाद जिन्होंने यात्रियों के लिए भंडारे का आयोजन किया ….|
लेख वर्णन और फोटो → कुल मिलाकर मेहनतकश और बढ़िया वर्णन….
धन्यवाद
enjoying your travel. quite vivid description
कुछ पता चला कि उस पांइट को टाइटैनिक पांइट क्यो कहते है ??
Thanks Ritesh and SS jee
@ SSjee :- I don’t know from where the name Titanic view point came , but it was good to enjoy.
I think enjoyment on this point is similiar as seen as Titanic ship`s front side . so this point called titanic point . Two lovers extended their hands in titanic pose
Rathodji,
Can you please let me know the name, address and the contact phone number of the Hotel where you stayed at Pahalgam? I.m planning a trip to Kashmir shortly and the tariff of the Hotel mentioned by you suits my budget. Thanks.
Dear Das jee,
The hotel name is Sahiba Palace . The number is 01936 – 243074 as on the business card. The Hotel is run by a boy named Ishfaq whose mobile number is 9697934086.
But I don’t know whether he will give you the room in the same rate. Because at my time there was off season , in fact I was the only person staying in his Hotel and same situation was there in every hotel. But I don’t know which season when are you going and the tariff which I have given is the heavily negotiated one. But you can always try and can use my name also. he probably might remember me. Thanks.
Thanks. I am going during Sept. It is also not full season. Anyhow, let us see what happens.
बहुत अच्छे विशाल जी,
ये टिकेट के दिन बदलने वाली घटना का एक बार मैं भी गवाह बन चूका हूँ. बिलकुल यही कहानी थी, कुछ लोग रास्ते से चढ़े, चढ़ते ही, सीट नम्बर देखा और चढ बैठे उन सवारियों पे जो उनकी सीट पे बैठे थे, बल्कि सो रही थी, कहने लगे खड़े हो जाओ, मेरे पास इन सीटों की कन्फर्म टिकेट है, वो बेचारे भी घबरा गए, कहने लगे हम तो कल से इसी सीट पे हैं, हमारी तो टिकेट भी चेक हो चुकी है, मैं तब ही माजरा समझ गया और जो भाई साहब फैले जा रहे थे उनसे कहा की जरा अपनी टिकेट दिखाना, बिलकुल यही आप वाली कहानी निकली, एक दिन पहले का टिकेट लिए चौड़े हो रहे थे, उन सवारियों ने तो कुछ नहीं कहा लेकिन मैंने (और मेरे साथ और सवारियों ने ) पूरे मजे लिए और पुछा क्यों भैया बड़े फैले जा रहे थे, अब तो बिना टिकेट हो बोलो क्या सलूक किया जाये ?
माफ़ी चाहूँगा, असल मैं आपको दोनों पोस्ट अभी अभी पढ़े हैं इसीलिए कमेन्ट कोमन हो गया.
और रही बात भंडारों की, तो उन भंडारों की कीमत तब और ज्यादा बढ़ जाती है जब हम देखते हैं कि जिस जगह पांच रुपये वाला पानी पचास में मिलता है, वहाँ देखो लोगों ने कितने कितने बड़े भंडारे लगा रख्खे हैं.
वैसे मैं कल्पना कर रहा हूँ कि अगर आप यहाँ इतने रोमांचित हो रहे हो तो आप जब बद्रीनाथ जी कि यात्रा पर जाओगे तो कितना आनंद उठाओगे और कितना सुंदर वर्णन करोगे…
जय राम जी की….
Thanks Sanjay jee,
भंडारों कि बात बिकुल ठीक लिखी आपने . अगर भंडारे न हो तो ५ रू कि चीज़ ५० रू मैं बिकती है. और संजय जी आपकी एक और बात सच है कि मैंने इस यात्रा में इतना आनंद लिया है कि आपको बता नहीं सकता. बहुत कठीन यात्रा थी अगर पूरे परिवार के साथ करे तो छोटी बच्ची के साथ , लेकिन जो पल भोले बाबा की गुफा में बीते कुछ १५ मिनिट वह पल सारे दुःख दर्द को मिटा देते है ऐसे सात्विक गुण है उस गुफा में .और इतनी ज्यादा प्रशंशा के लिए बहुत बहुत धन्यवाद.
जय रामजी की
The pictures of the temple has come out super. Special thanks for sharing the contact details of the hotel. Information like these is very helpful.
Your description about Jawahar Tunnel has further increased the desired to drive through this marvel.
Destination doesn’t matter anymore if the journey is so beautiful.
The memory of this trip will definitely with you forever and I pray to GOD that your wish may come true – to be there in Winter, as well as in Springs…
Awesome pictures…Titanic Valley is superb, so as ‘Bhuswarg’ Kashmir…I still can’t believe that temperature drops down from 40 to 25 just within 2.5 kms…you (I) must be there to feel it…excellent post…
Thanks Nandan and Amitava jee,
@ Amitavajee :- Thanks Amitavajee for praying and yes there is considerable amount of temperature change within that 2.5 km. In fact that tunnel passes through a very huge and high mountain that people tell that even air cannot cross it, I didn’t believe first when Manu told , but then I had to experience it.
Great going, Vishal, I am enjoying every moment of it. Your detailed and meticulous descrition of your yatra will be highly useful for those planning to go on an Amarnath yatra.
The dramatic difference between the two ends of a 2.5 km long tunnel is astounding. It reminds me of those sci-fi wormholes that connect two different dimensions. In Vizag too, there is a Titanic viewpoint on a hill overlooking the sea. It has been named after the Hollywood movie because the viewpoint is shaped like the bow (front part) of a ship. Couples love to pose there a la Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet, with outstretched arms.
विशाल भाई आपने पहलगाम की खूबसूरती और लिददर नदी की सुंदरता देखकर जो पहलगाम में रूकने का फैसला किया वेा सौ प्रतिशत सही था
400 रू में कमरा भी आपने बढिया हथिया लिया
पहलगाम की नदी के किनारे का नजारा मनाली के रास्ते और अभी मणिमहेश के रास्ते में रावी नदी और हरसिल की लोकेशन से मिलता जुलता है अभी आप हिमालय में कम गये हो यहां ऐसा लगता है कि आज जो देखा है वो स्वर्ग है पर अगली बार लगता है अरे नही ये जो आज देखा है ये उससे भी बढिया है । ये हिमालय है जहां कण कण में खूबसूरती बिखरी पडी है
Very good Narration Vishal. This series is becoming one of the best series here. Photos specially of rivers are too good.
Sir,
why did you not stayed at Nunwan base camp Just before the Pahalgam. You would have get tent there @ Rs 100 per bed. Nunwan base camp becomes small town in itself during yatra period. Many Bhandaras, medical camps, small market etc are all available there. Environment remains entirely religious in the base camp.