Everybody has a dream, I also have one. I am a frequent trekker so I have a dream to view Mount Everest once in my life. I want to have a glimpse of Mt. Everest. As I was planning for this trek from last 2 years but now in year 2012, I finally successfully completed my Everest Base Camp (17598 ft.) & Kalapatthar (18400 ft.) Trek, sorry it’s not a trek it’s a expedition for me. The story starts with December 2011 when I received a mail, from my fellow trekker, that Jabalpur Mountaineering Association is organizing an expedition to Kumbhu valley (Everest region in Nepal is known as Kumbhu region). I forwarded this to one of my Goan friend who also wants to do the same and we have done many treks with each other so both of us have fine tuning. They are supposed to arrange expedition in the month of April (9th to 22nd April). Leaves were not a problem for me but there were some other issues which were denying me to participate for this trek. After discussing with my friend many times, we realized that only two seats were remaining in the month of Jan, 2012. He immediately transferred funds, and we decided to make it happen. We booked our return flight tickets from Mum-Del-Ktm-Del-Ktm. As I have been to 14000 ft yet & this is 4000ft higher so I started the workout, abd started going to gym to tune my body. Preparation was going on. I purchased all small and big things. Finally I was set with my two backpacks, one is of 55Litres & another is of 25 litters.
I was really excited for this trek. My life’s main motto is coming true in next few days. Start frm Mumbai on 8th April, reched Delhi, stay at YHAI hostel and start journey to T3 terminal (International Airport) at 3.30 am as our flight to Kathmandu was early in the morning.
This was my first visit to International airport, T3 terminal is very well constructed really good airport. First time in my life my passport got scanned at the time of immigration check. Feeling good. We passed quite some time on the airport and finally boarded our spicejet flight for KTM. Reached KTM as per our schedule, met with one of my other friends who was also coming with us for the same trek. As our hotels are already booked so we hired a cab and directly went there. Our hotel was in Thamel area. Today and tomorrow (means 9th & 10th) are free day to visit or roam here & there. In the evening time we all met with our other group members, surprised to see people of different ages in our group. The senior most uncle was of 69 years and one great uncle he was. 4 doctors (2 recently completed MBBS) good, 26(10 ladies & rest Gents) peoples we have in our group. Next day we went to roam in and around Kathmandu, some tourist places like Pashupatinath temple & etc… last time shopping ….
11th April (Kathmandu to Lukla)
As it was already decided that we have to start early for our Lukla flight so we all gatherd on time & started with bus to Kathamndu domestic airport. Telling you here that Kathmandu to Lukla is the world 2nd or 3rd scariest flight. You can google it also. We were on time & waited at the airport for our flight to Lukla, time passed on and on but no announcement of our flight as there were some weather problem in Lukla region. We waited there till 4.00 pm but there was no flight for that region. All of us returned back with sad faces & we had to now wait for the next day to fly. Again same instructions to get up early for boarding the early morning flight.
12th April (Kathmandu to Lukla to Phadking)
Again followed same schedule and reached airport, as soon as we reached we collected our boarding passes and rushed for security check. It was a small, chartered like flight, 16 setter. Journey was 35 minutes but really a scary one. We landed to Lukla safely and this is our starting point. Now we have to wait for others to come. Our porters were already there. We took our lunch there and started for next camp Phadking. It’s a nice walk till phadking some up and down. Beautiful, scenic, virgin mountains gr8 it was. We reached there and spent our night in tea house. I want to share you that this trek is like 5 star one where you will get proper bed to sleep, pizza, cheese, sizzler everything u will easily get here but food is too much costly. This is my first experience to stay in Tea houses. Sherpa peoples are very good people, always greet them with Namaste, they like it very much. Temperature is bearable here. We went for bed as we have to climb Namche Bazar tomorrow.
13th April (Phadking to Namche Bazaar)
We wake up 5.30 in d morning, got refreshed and had breakfast or only Black tea. We started early in the morning near about 7.00 or maximum 7.30 am. Kindly note that this is very long & tiring trek so better to start early. We crossed Sagarmantha national park, Monjo Jorsale village and many others. In Nepal, Everest is known as Sagarmantha. We took our lunch before Namche climb. Kindly note that you must take your luch and fill atleast 2 litre of water before Namche climb as you will not get any thing for next 2 or 2.5 hrs. Namche is a steep climb till Namche bazaar.
Entire trek is like highways here local villagers, porters, Yak, Mule coming up & down to collect or carry all the stuff useful for human beings. It’s very busy trail. Suspension bridges are part of our life now. It’s really a tough, steep climb for next 2.5 hrs for me. I usually or forcefully drink a minimum of 4 liters liquid for entire trek to reduce the chances of Altitude sickness. All of us successfully reached Namche Bazar & stayed in Hotel Kamal. Namche bazaar is a place where you will get all luxuries like casino, hot shower bath, pool table, disco, dance etc… Namche Bakery is very famous here. Please try Tibetan bread yummy…. If you are short of trekking gear you can buy it from here, remember this is the last place from where you will find all this stuff. Next day is acclimatization day for us. Its not a rest day but ….
14th April (Aclimatization Day)
Again follow same schedule, start for acclimatization, plan was to go for Everest View hotel, the highest hotel in the world operated by Japanees. From here you will get view of Mt. Everest if weather permits. We went to one national park then Everest view hotel & then Khumjung village. This village is developed by Sir Edmand Hillary, one hillary school was also there, then climb to Namche top & get down to Namche bazaar. Starts at 7.30 in the morning & returned back at 4.00pm. so it’s not like a rest day. Now next higher camp is Tengobche.
15th April (Namche Bazar to Tengobche)
Start, climb & climb beautiful mountains, Mother Nature, monks, Stups, chanting monks everywhere is a perfect mood of climbing. We take our breakfast in one middle village. After walking of 3 hrs we got our first glimpse of Mt. Everest from here wow have tears of joy in eyes I stood calmly there and watch it for next 5 – 7 mins. Clicked some photos here & go ahead.
Many mountains like Thamsekru, Ama Dablam now accompanying is for next 4 -5 days. After lunch again it’s a tough climb till Tengobche. Huffing and puffing are part of life but have only one aim to reach EBC. As we reach Tengobche snowfall starts, kindly note at this height there would always be snowfall no rainfall. Tengboche have a world highest Buddhism monastery in the world. Good palce it was. Now feel some mild headache means altitude plays there game from here.
16th April (Tengobche to Dengobche)
We wake up in d morning found clear sky. Bad news was that 4 trekkers are returning back becoz of d altitude problem. Doctor couple & two from Bangalore are returning back. Sad moment for entire group. Rest all we started fro higher camp Dengobche. Same walk climb get down again climb again it was tough day as oxygen level goes down create a lot of problem for us. All we reach Dengobche on time but get news that one of the lady trekker faced some problem to climb somehow she would manage to come our teahouse at Dengobche.
Her condition was really bad she was getting problem to breathe smoothly. Guide arranged a ponny to get down her to Pheriche immediately as there is some O2 & medication available there. In the night we have transported her to Pheriche. Take our food and go to sleep.
17th April (Dengobche to Lobuche)
Got news that a very fit trekker of our group feeling headache and planning to return back. Altitude plays very important role here. People are taking Diamox to avoid but some time it will not help u out. I only take minimum of 4 -5litres of water & maintained my slow and steady pace. All we start for Lobuche . We took one shortcut & it suffers us very much it’s a steep climb but all of was in very bad condition there. I am telling u peoples was fighting each other at some point, it’s again a symptom of altitude sickness. We start to lobuche. After walking to 2 hrs we reach our lunch point. Beautiful site it was. I feel some mental tiredness & block there & I decided to return back to Pheriche, I was not in a mood to continue further.
I told that things to my frn & gr8 uncle they told me that ur breathing was ok then why r u taking such decision. U r only two camps away frm ur dream destination, u can do it do it Sankalp u can. I suddenly getup pack my backpack hold it & start a very steep climb telling u I climbed that steep climb in 50-55 mins which usually take 1.15 to 1.30hrs. I reached on the top of the heal where memorial of Scott fischer, babu chiri Sherpa was mounted and many others who lost there life in the mountain or in this region. Sit there no body of group was there wid me. Some are ahead & some are behind. I sitted there hold my head in my lap and was really weeping. I am at that place which I had read only in books or on the net. From d bottom of my heart I thanks to those three peoples (my both frns & uncle) who inspires me for not to move. After that it’s a good walk of 1. 1.30 hrs to reach the camp site. After reaching their feel very good and feel of relief was there that I am now only one camp behind for my dream runs. We got shocking news that one more lady has some problem for breathing so she stays back accompanying one more lady at d lunch point where I was also plan to stop. But I am the lucky one. Next day is Gorakshep last higher camp site for EBC expedition.
18th April (Lobuche to Gorakshep)
The same routine. We started early. Now it’s very difficult to walk becoz of the oxygen level. It’s very low. For every 10 – 15 steps I have to stop and take a long breathe recollect my energy and move forward. Its climb up & up as we knows this is the last camp site so I am not in hurry and going slowly and steady maintained my pace. Telling u at the time of walking there was 4 – 5 layers of clothes we have to wear and in the night it was 7 – 8 layers with sleeping bag extra. I throw my 1 litre of water bottle also becoz not able to carry weight. Every 100gms looks like kg on higher altitudes. Entire trek was full of Glaciers. There was snow at the bottom and rocks and sand was on the top. Really feeling very good, the photos which I saw only on net I am that place now. Clicked a lot of photos. It was too much windy and child cold that to click photo I have to remove my gloves and again I have to wear it. Tough task for me.. U believes or not if I have to search anything in my back pack breathing goes on higher side becoz of oxygen. I was in seventh heaven.
Everywhere snow clad mountains, virgin mountains & some well known mountains was there. From here able to glimpse of Kalapatthar also. I reached Gorakshep at 12.30 pm. From here I rang to my parents, wife & some of d office frns. I was not able to speak also a lot of huffing and puffing was there. As per todays plan we have to climb Kalapatthar but becoz of climate we went for EBC. We start to EBC at 2.00 pm. Earlier it was flat walk after that it was up & down. Reached to Base camp after do trek of 2.5 hrs. For a particular point we will able to go after that they will not allow us . Many tents are mounted ther for summiters who are going to attempt summit this year. We met some Indian summiters also who are planning to conquer Mt. Everest this spring. We returned back to our tea house for rest. As I earlier mentioned this is the last night of ours to spent on this higher altitude.
From last 2 night I am unable to sleep. Hardly I take a nap of 2 hrs. only. Running nose with little blood. Dry Cough with blood are there from last two days. But I fell a sigh of relief that I had achieved what I want in my life. I thanks to my god to give me such power to achieve what I want a as a trekker.
19th – 20th – 21st April (Gorakshep – Kalapatthar-Pheriche- Namche-Lukla)
As everyone was very tired so only few was willing to attempt Kalapatthar climb. Have to wake up 4 in d morning and start to climb. Temperature was in negative. Water bottles are freezed. Everywhere ice and ice. From Kalapatthar you will get perfect view of Mt. Everest. From now we have to get down and down. That km we have climb in 6 days roughly 60-65 km we have to get down in 3 days.
Schedule was very tight. We have to get down & down. But some climbs are also there in that as we getting down we feel ok becoz oxygen level increases. But it was very tiring next 3 days. We usually start 7.00 am in the morning and reached next camp at 5 or 6 and some other will reach till 8 also.
It was really a tough and tiring trek. But all of us we was happy. I am really excited and happy that I have conquered what I want. Go to bed late in the night last day. Everybody was sharing their experiences. Exchanges of addresses and contact number.. group photo packed final bags too flew for civilization.
22nd April (Lukla-KTM-NewDelhi-Mumbai)
Todays day is full of hectic tavelling. First fly to KTM then Dehi & then Mumbai. After reaching to delhi airport I have checked that I loose 8 kg of mine hahahahahahahahaha . I have not taken shower from last 15 days, stinking like a hell. Purchased one telcom powder & bath it with. As we find one veg restaurant at T3 airport rushed towards it & take full meal.
After 15 days I ate very much. What things I will get eat it . board the flight to Mumbai & land it. Again journey of Mumbai local starts. It took 7 days for me to recover from body ache and being adjust to such humid environment. My knees are still paining but all of this pain goes away when I would be in d memory of Kumbhu Region.
Bye for now and meet you all again. Am planning for Stok Kangri in Leh next year a highest summit able trek in INDIA..