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The Big Nataraja of Konerirajapuram |
The Mahashivaratri festival is upon us, so I thought it appropriate to post about the World’s Largest Bronze Nataraja at Konerirajapuram.
Konerirajapuram is a sleepy little village surrounded by paddy fields in Tamil Nadu’s fertile and historic Cauvery Delta. In ancient times it was known as TiruNallam. Konerirajapuram’s claim to fame is the huge bronze cast icon of Lord Siva as Nataraja at the Uma Maheswarar temple. This is bigger than the Nataraja at Chidambaram.
Priest Gnanaskandan next to the idols of Nataraja and Mangalanayagi
Ancient inscriptions record that the temple was built from an endowment set up by the Chola queen Sembiyan Mahadevi [also spelt Chembiyan Maa Devi] in the reign of Uttama Chola.
The unpretentious entrance to the temple is simple and devoid of the typical Gopuram towers. Who would believe what priceless treasures are housed within!
Daily Annadanam or feeding of the poor is held in the main hall [Pugazhabharana Mandapam] of the temple.
Sri Gnanaskandan is the hereditary priest in charge. He is a friendly soul, enthusiastic about showing off his temple to those who are interested. Here he is in front of the Sivalingam.
The big Nataraja is housed in a separate enclosure constructed in such a way that the idol can never be removed without breaking the structure.
Bronze icons were made in the lost wax or cire perdue process in the Chola era. The tradition continues to this day at nearby Nachiar Koil and Swamimalai where a number of bronze and brass works turn out a variety of finely crafted, exquisite idols, lamps and other objects. The state government owned Poompuhar also has a workshop in both these locations.
Gnanaskandan proudly led us into a small ante room off the Nataraja enclosure where a smaller collection of castings of various deities were displayed. All these bronzes reportedly date prior to the tenth century.
The Nataraja remains where it is but the smaller idols are taken out on ceremonial occassions.
Here is Gnanaskandan with a niche sculpture of Agasthya Rishi
Queen Sembiyan Mahadevi in prayer before the Lingam. Observe the inscription below the frieze.
Exquisite niche sculpture of Lord Siva as Nataraja
Ancient Inscriptions
The Konerirajpuram temple is also well known for its beautiful frescoes. Sadly most are not well preserved with obvious signs of deterioration.
These are on the roof of the main hall
Some of the frescoes from the later Nayaka period are painted over the earlier frescoes. This one depicts a scene from daily life
Damaged frescoes on the roof of the main hall. The temple lamp is also seen in this picture, along with bikes casually parked amidst these priceless treasures ….
More frescoes
This is an interesting depiction of the British official making an offering to the temple in gratitude for being cured of leprosy.
The Vaidyanathar sannidhi within the temple is locally well known as a healing centre for those afflicted with skin disease.
A small Gopuram within the courtyard
Small Vimanam
This was our second visit to Konerirajapuram. We had first read about it in Temples of Tamil Nadu by AV Shankaranarayana Rao. The village and the temple exude an ambience of centuries gone by, subtly urging one to return.
The Cauvery Delta is steeped in history and strewn with innumerable ancient living temples containing priceless works of art. On both visits, we stayed at Kumbakonam from where Konerirajapuram is a mere 25 minute drive on the Karaikal route.
Kumbakonam is well known as a pilgrimage centre, in particular for those on the Navagraha circuit. Once in every twelve years, the Mahamaham Kumbh is held around the tank of the same name, attracting millions of pilgrims from far and wide. Kumbakonam is also called Temple City with literally hundreds of temples of its own, most of them ancient. The big two are the Kumbeswarar Siva Temple and Sarangapani Vishnu Temple. Swamimalai, one of the six abodes of Lord Murugan is a mere 6 km away. The World Heritage Site of Darasuram is just outside the city. The Cauvery Delta is a must visit for those who enjoy ancient living monuments and stepping back in time.
More about our visits to the Cauvery Delta in future posts.
Gita,
Very interesting and informative post supported with beautiful pictures. Thanks for taking us to see worlds biggest Nataraj idol.
Mukesh Bhalse
Thanks Mukesh
Thanks Gita.
As you rightly noted, the entrance is not grand but the fact that it has artifacts as old as 10th century AD is really remarkable. Would ASI not want to take it over and add to to heritage list and may be formalize the preservation.
Looking fwd to read more abouu Cauvery Delta.
Thanks Nandan.
I believe there could be legal complications with a take over as several of these ancient Dravidian temples are run by trusts.
However the ASI has studied and documented the inscriptions. If you are interested, you can go through this link:
http://www.whatisindia.com/inscriptions/south_indian_inscriptions/volume_3/no_151_uttama_chola.html
I wish they would do something urgently to preserve the frescoes. We could see obvious deterioration from our previous visit in July 2008.
Looks like you got a guided tour by the priest. Excellent photos.
Gita, thanks for your nice post..60 days back, i have a two day visit to kumbakonam, and i spend one day in dharasuram…i will add this temple in my next visit..
very good keep it up dear . keep posting
Thank you for a fascinating write-up. Preservation and restoration of the frescoes should be done as soon as possible. It is a blessing that the temple authorities have not overpainted with enamel paint.
keep up the good work1
Regards,
Unni
Dear Gita,
May I add your fine murthi photos to our early Indian Sculpture project website? We’re collecting
all images of sculpture of sites 11th cent. and older. You will of course be credited.
Kathie Brobeck
what an amazing collection of bronze masterpieces. Thanks for sharing them.
Gita,
Very good collection of photos…
Please see http://www.shivshankar.in/ – we would like to publish your photos with due credit.
Thanks !
Thanks for the excellent photos and writeup. I had a trip to this great temple recently. God bless you !
Thank you everyone for your comments and appreciation.
Your way of writing made this place a magnificent otherwise it may be a sleeping place.
Nice description pretty and colorful pictures.
Thanks Praveen.
Believe me, Konerirajapuram may be a sleepy village [and may it always remain so] but the huge bronze of Lord Siva – Nataraja – is more than magnificent. It is the largest such bronze in the world, bigger than the one at Chidambaram. There may be some modern replicas now which are larger.
The entire Cauvery Delta is filled with such ancient treasures, some obvious such as the Brihadeeswarar at Thanjavur, some hidden such as Konerirajapuram. I have been spoilt with the living heritage of the Cauvery Delta, this is why I do not get too impressed with monuments of more recent vintage in other places.
Hi All,
Thanks for every one.. I m really appericate and its glad.. Its very powerful god in this world… Konerirajapuram Natraja… truly i felt that happy my life to change….
Regards
Govintharaj Velar ( son’s)
Thank you for your comments. Are you from Konerirajapuram?
Yes..
I m in konerirajapuram.. Now i m staying in chennai, I gone for every month in my native konerirajapuram should be seems to nataraja.. Every month I saw the natraja and umamageswarar.. Its getting my life totally changed – ( Powerful god in the world) – Thirunallam
Please once again Million’s of thanks to Natraja and Umamageswarar , Subramaniar, Vaithiyanathar, angalamman, (Ragu)Durgai amman, Guru Bhagavan, Magalakshmi…
Regards
LOGANATHAN G ( Govintharaj Velar son’s) from konerirajapuram
Very good photos nice description. In north India hard to see Natraj Temple. Thanks.
Thanks for your appreciation Surinder.
If you ever get a chance, do visit this ancient temple.
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Hi Gita,
The photos look like million bucks. The colours have come alive in them.
Let me know if i can buy your camera?!
Nice account too.
Interesting post with beautiful pics….Seeing your post and temple pics, I started missing Chennai more and more…
Nice photos really amazing the lord natraja.. view is very nice nice…
I love that place and location of the nataraja
Regards
Loganathan G ( Govintharaj’s (Jothider) son – Konerirajapuram