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BINSAR - Best place in Uttaranchal at a comfortable distance |
INTRODUCTION : For those people who are tired of crowded hill stations like Shimla, Mussoorie, Manali etc., the thickly wooded forest of BINSAR with loads of GREENERY and CRISP MOUNTAIN AIR to soothe your eyes, body and soul is the best place to go. It is indeed very, very green and at 2100-2400 m height is cool enough to keep you fresh all day. Although i have been here 2-3 times before in smaller groups, this time in the month of August, I had taken 12 family members in three cars, all belonging to different age group - from 6 months to 64 years old and BINSAR did not disappoint any one. In fact it is one of our most memorable family trips and is very much recommended for romantic couples as well as loners, writers and nature lovers.
LOCATION/ HOW TO REACH : Binsar is about 400 kms from Delhi via Moradabad, Rampur, Udham Singh Nagar, Haldwani, Bhowali, Garampani and Almora. It is 25 kms from Almora on the Bagheshwar Road and 2 kms after Kaparkhan Village. From Almora, there are two roads to approach Binsar. One is the main Bagheshwar Road and the second one goes past the Kasar Devi temple. This road is much more picturesque and is recommended. A forest check post would welcome you at the entrance to the Binsar hill as it is a protected wildlife sanctuary but i wonder if there is much wildlife there apart from birds. The roads are very good, in fact excellent till Almora. It would take about 10-11 hours from Delhi and 4 - 4.5 hours from Haldwani. We took a night halt in Haldwani and then left for Binsar in morning so that we could maximise our stay there.
THINGS TO DO : The best thing to do here is to walk or relax and soak in the sight of beautiful forest, scented air and green valleys. Do not forget to take the 3 km walk from the KMVN hotel to the BINSAR hilltop. It is worth every calorie spent and the view from the watch tower at the top is breathtaking. In clear weather, the snow capped peaks are very clearly visible. Do not forget to carry your raincoats/ umbrellas and also your binoculars if you enjoy birdwatching. There are many places nearby within 2-3 hours drive like Jageshwar, Patal Bhubneshwar but you need a complete day to visit each of them. Although Jageshwar has a very good setting in a narrow valley of Deodar trees with a mountain stream and ancient temples, the money minded priests there spoil the experience which could have been excellent in their absence. To go to Jageshwar, you can all the way to Almora and then turn left for jageshwar or alternatively you can take a semi-kutcha route which turns left after about 1 km from the Binsar sanctuary gate and then joins the road which goes from Seraghat to Barechhina. This road is goes through the Binsar forest and there are 2/3 water springs enroute which should have water if you are not too unlucky. Nice places for picnic.
PLACES TO STAY : We stayed at the KHALI Estate which is in itself a very historical place and has been a host to lot of celebrities. It is very green inside the resort also and the place itself is very infectious with very homely staff. It has facilities for badminton, lawn tennis, fireplaces, well stocked library and offers very good food. (Website - http://www.resorthimalaya.com/) There is KMVN Tourist bungalow at the hilltop which has very good rustic charm and can be very good to enjoy ghost stories :). There is no electricity here and the candlelights add a certain charm in the nights. There is a forest rest house as well a kilometer ahead. (http://www.kmvn.org/) The Club Mahindra Resort is 10 kms ahead of Binsar and is at an elevation of about 1500-1600 metres. So it is not that cool there and hence would not recommend it inspite of the wonderful look and having very good facilities. (Website - http://www.mhril.com/) So just go ahead and enjoy the place and please do not recommend it to too many people lest the place loses its character.
(Would add some snaps later)

August 7th, 2008 at 6:15 am
Thanks Anand for the story and the information.
I was at Binsar in 2003 and stayed at KMVN. It was Dec 31st or Jan 1 kinds and really very very cold, we had this candle light in our rooms and by morning we all woke up with a strong headache. Instinctively we were blaming that on that extra peg of ‘Old Smuggler’ but when we came out of the room and got some fresh air, we realized that the cold and candle has eaten all the oxygen.
We also checked out Khali but it was coming out expensive :) for a young crowd of five so we chose KMVN.
August 7th, 2008 at 2:31 pm
To add to that (I was with nandan jha on that trip), we also visited the rest house next morning and met pandit ji who make kundlis as well as take care of the rest house. We decided to stay there next time which hasn’t come till now.
Another good part was the drive to the KMVN (Nandan is generally the driver on all the trips, for a change - on this one I was driving). It was pretty narrow road going through the forest and driving after dark set in, was fun.
Khali is at the bottom of the hill so you don’t really get to the hill top unless you decide to go to top for a view of snow laden peaks.
August 8th, 2008 at 5:42 am
A well written post.
Wish you had chipped in a few pictures supplementing your description.
August 8th, 2008 at 7:41 am
My wife and I went to Binser ,I think, in1903, along with a group of [people through Club Mahindra( got some free vouchers for 3 nights), and travelled thro night,Result :couldnt really enjoy the countryside, and staying at Club Mahindra-not really Binsor– and captive to their itinery,The only thing ,apart from the Mahindra resort luxary, we visited the Patal Bhubneshwar, and had to crawl through a “Guffa” to enter the PATAL cave. Since we are not keen on these kind of places, felt suffocating.The good thing was a night at Almora and.on way back, a night at CORBET..Visit Binser again? Perhaps NOT.Goog you enjoyed it.
August 12th, 2008 at 10:49 am
One more place added to my - to visit list. Nice story and thanks so much for the detailed information.
August 21st, 2008 at 6:19 am
Binsar is a nature’s paradise and should be enjoyed best by being on foot through all the wild trails it offers. I see Jatinderji not enjoying the place even though his description of the place makes it quite enchanting (his language skills are questionable and also maybe his counting as he visited that place in 1903). I would highly recommend the place to one and everyone.
August 21st, 2008 at 12:01 pm
Hope my comment didnt offend Jatinderji and would request him to actively participate here. in the meantime I am trying to make the area my home as I would soon be setting up base at Gwaldam another picturesque place.
August 29th, 2008 at 12:45 pm
Thanks Anand for useful information. I also, like Jatinderji, got free accomotaion from club Mahindra, but missed the chance. I thought that that is the only accomodation in and around Binsar, but good to know about two - three more options and also its a pleasure to know that one can indulge in so many activities.
Thanks Anand for sharing information. And Jatinderji thanks for you to let us know about Patal caves, for young people it can definitely be a plus.
RKS: Jatinderji is a very senior ghumakkar among us. We all respect him a lot. Don’t you feel that we can have differing opinions about the same place even with the same experiences ?
We are extremely proud that even at the age of above 75 yrs he is there with us, giving us his blessings and sharing his enormous experiences.
1903 seems a typo, but we all make typing mistakes, don’t we ?
For sure we will also be looking forward to your Gwaldham experiences. Please share …