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Palayur and the Story of Syrian Christians |
On one cool morning last year, we some of the members of Marthoma Church, Karimba, gathered at the Parsonage. After coffee at 6 am we started for Palayur (an important pilgrimage center of Syrian Christians) in a hired Bus. Shortly before 8 am we reached, as planned, at the Ravi Varma orphanage at Trichur run by our church. We had free breakfast with the inmates, wash our plates ourselves and gave donations to the institution. And go around and saw the institution and talked to some of the inmates.
Ravivarma Orphanage
How to reach Palayur?
Palayur is a part of Trichur District and is located on the west Cost of Kerala. By road it takes 28 Km to reach Palayur from Trichur. It is on Trichur – Chavakkad route, via Pavaratty. To travel by train catch Trichur – Guruvayur train (24 Km). From Guruvayur to Palayur take a bus or a taxi/auto rickshaw (2 Km). Nedumbasserry International Airport is only 80 Km from Palayur.
We then started to see many ancient churches on our way to Guruvayur where we had Lunch at another old age home run by our Church. Here I had talked to some of the inmates who expressed their anguish at their children leaving them to this old age home, while they long to be with their children and grand children as it was in their younger days. (Money is not what they expect from their Children). I then decided that it will be better to be in the jungle of concrete in Delhi along with my children than in the God’s own Country. Soon Kerala will become a geriatric asylum as the youngsters will leave Kerala.
Old age home
Ancient Church
Kananaya Kaldian church
Well maintained Ancient cemetery
Before I Go to Palayur let me tell the story of Syrian Christians of Kerala.
Definition of Syrian Christian
Syrian Christians are not a particular Christian Denomination. It is a high cast name for all Christians now found in many Kerala denominations who claim their origin to Brahmins converted by St. Thomas and later intermarried with the Christian families migrated from Palestine etc. They were known as Nazraneys (ey pronounced like money) to the local people, and to the out side world as St. Thomas Christians. Only after the arrival of Portuguese they are known as Syrian Christians.
Throughout Kerala, one can find Christian families that claim their descent from Brahmin ancestors who were baptized by Apostle Thomas. St. Thomas Christians were classified into the caste system according to their professions, in accordance with the Hindu tradition, with special privileges for trade granted by the benevolent kings who ruled the area. Syrian Christians had a king of their own. After the eighth century when Hindu Kingdoms came to sway, Christians were expected to strictly abide by stringent rules pertaining to caste and religion. This became a matter of survival. This is why St. Thomas Christians had such a strong sense of caste and tradition. Local rulers had given them 172 special privileges including right to own Slaves; right to have special architecture for their houses, right to use 2 Plantain leaves at public feast, use of Palanquin etc.
Thus, Most of the Kerala Churches are Hindu in culture, Christian in religion, and Judeo-Syro-Oriental in worship.
History
Even before Christian era, Arabs had trade with Kerala for spices mainly Pepper, Ivory and sandal wood. Even King Solomon got wood from Kerala for making the first Jewish temple. Many Jews settled in Kochi and Palayur before St. Thomas came to Kerala in AD 52.
It is believed that St. Thomas came in one of the boats with the trading Jews.
Christianity in India
It was one of the early eastward movements that first brought Christianity to India. According to tradition it was brought in the first century by one of the twelve apostles, St. Thomas. This has been the constant tradition of the Syrian Christians of Malabar, and it has been widely believed in the West also that this apostle’s sphere of work was in India.
The Tradition
Palayur was the stronghold of the Namboodiri Brahmins (the super class people in Indian communities). When St. Thomas arrived from Kodungallur, Israelites had a settlement at Palayur, two thousand years ago. Ruins of an ancient Jewish Synagogue are still seen outside of a Brahmin temple about a furlong away from the Church.
“When Thomas came to the great Brahmin centre of Palayur, a leading Brahmin Gramam (Village) among the 64, he came across some Brahmins doing the Pithru Yajna or Pooja to the manes or ghosts of deceased ancestors. They were throwing water into the air (Tharpan) while reciting manthras. The Apostle learned from them the meaning of this ritual and remarked: ‘If your performance is acceptable to the gods they could keep the water suspended in the air without allowing it to fall again and again’. “The Brahmins said that this was unthinkable as it was opposed to the laws of nature. Then Thomas asserted that the One true God he worshipped could do it, and he proceeded to perform a miracle on condition that the Brahmins accept his faith if he is successful. The Apostle, invoking the Holy Trinity, made the sign of the Cross and threw a handful of water up into the sky. After reaching a particular height the water stood still in the air, the particles glittering like diamonds. Looking down the Brahmins could see the cavity made by the removal of the water still there in the pond. Most of the witnesses were baptised on the spot. However those Brahmins who did not accept the faith called the place ‘Shapa Kadu’ or Cursed Place and left the place immediately promising to take the next bath only at Vembanattu, unpolluted by the new faith. Even today, true to the oath taken by their ancestors, the Brahmins do not eat or drink in the vicinity of Palayur or Chowghat (Shapa Kadu).” Palayur church is one of the seven churches established by St. Thomas in Kerala.
Subsequently a series of Migration took place by Christians of Palestine Syria etc. At first Nazraneys do not intermarry with tem, but later intermarried with them.
The following pictures are taken from the compound of Palayur Church depicting the Story of St. Thomas and his Martyrdom at Mylapore in madras. The church was a temple before St. Thomas Converted the Brahmins. The oil lamp used in the temple is still there. Tippu sultan burned down this church. But later it is reconstructed with the Persian cross established by St. Thomas and the oil lamps of the temple.
Kind of boat in which st. Thomas came to Kerala
This pond and statues at the Palayur church represent St. Thomas baptizing the Brahmins
Palayur Church
The Persian Cross planted by St. Thomas and the Oil lamps used in the Temple
The cave representing St. Thomas martyrdom at Mylapore, Madras
Till 16th century the Syrian Christians were not fully aware of the Bible and the Christian Theology. They were following the Mesopotamian liturgy (Worship order or Chanting) in Syriac language understood only to a few. Following some rituals of the Eastern Churches of Mesopotamia. (Not Roman Catholic rituals as in Rome)
They follow many Hindu rituals like Shaving head and keeping a tuft of hair in the middle, applying Sandal wood paste on Forehead and on arms and Chest like Brahmins. They also worship their own deity in the form of Idols. In marriage, they tie a mangal sutra by the groom to the brid’s neck.
When Portuguese came to Kerala they saw these strange Christians and wanted to make them civilized like the Catholics. By using Bribes to leaders, using force and frightening the local king, they succeeded in convening a Conference by all bishops and lay representatives and made to follow the Catholic rituals and Liturgy. In effect all were made Catholic for about 50 years. In the conference they burned most of our old liturgy and other historical records.
Their bishop who came from Mesopotamia was put to jail by Portugese. There was a big protest by many to release him. But Portugese turn their canon on them so they have to retreat and make a vow that they have nothing to do with Rome. So the new denomination came to be known as Jacobites. Later when British came and started printing Bible and started teaching bible, Marthoma Church also separated from them.
Present day Marthoma church had a broad outlook. Their metropolitan, Head of the Church, often use to say “I believe in one and only one God. There is no Hindu God, Muslim God or Catholic God. It may be that their understanding of God is Different. My mother’s understanding of my father and my brothers understanding & my understanding of my father may differ. But there is only one father. No wonder L.K Adwani and Aryasamaj leader Acharya Agnivesh have much to say in favor of the Marthoma church as true Indian Church.
Now in fact Hindus, Christians and Muslims in Kerala are culturally alike and so there is no communal trouble in Kerala. Each community influences the others. There are innumerable stories and traditions that this space is not sufficient to include all. Before I finish I am giving two more photos showing a Syrian Christian (or Nazraney) dance form called Margam Kali and elephants of Guruvayur.
Margam Kali Dance of Syrian Christians
Temple elephants
After visiting the Chavakkad beach nearby we returned home. While returning we saw the Elephant keeping yard of the Famous Guruvayur Temple where more than hundred Elephants are maintained for the temple. It was a very thrilling experience.
July 1st, 2008 at 7:41 pm
Syrian Christianity as well as sect that (was) big in Iraq is most closely related to the christianity of Jesus, especially in their worship of St. John.
July 2nd, 2008 at 3:04 am
I do not know what you meant by Christianity of Jesus. Jesus was a Jew and he died as a Jew. He didn’t baptize a single person in to Christianity not even his disciples. His only command was love your neighbor as thyself. So any one who can do that is a believer of Christ or follower of Christ. Had he been born as a Brahmin he would have worn a sacred thread and still reprimand the Brahmins for their hypocrisy and would have said the same thing to them “Love your neighbor as thyself”. Only his disciples and followers started different sets of Christianity. Had Jesus be alive today he would have reprimanded them also.
Philip
July 2nd, 2008 at 2:08 pm
What a detailed and thorough note on Syrian christians, history of the faith and the customs. Very informative and educative. Well done sire.
July 3rd, 2008 at 7:00 am
what interesting legends ..
July 3rd, 2008 at 7:38 am
Beautifully written post, highly informative and educative and supported by some excellent pictures too.
Though I was aware of the arrival of St. Thomas, the Apostle, on the coasts of Kerala in the first century, I wasn’t sure about the mode of transport he used. Your post says that during those days the commercial ties between the Arabs and the traders from the Malabar region were strong and hence the revered saint might have come through one of the ships. This appears highly plausible. Accordingly, one can assume that the Christianity arrived in India during that period. Based on this assumption, kindly advise us whether the onset of Christianity happened in India earlier than the European countries.
I am deeply touched by your comment on the old age homes, the inmates and their emotions. Unfortunately, with the breaking up of the joint family system, the problem is becoming more acute.
Right from my young days, I had a feeling that the Christians, Hindus and Muslims in Kerala are very strongly bound by the cultural heritage and the language and literature and hence there are hardly any communal problems in Kerala. I wish this was true about other regions too.
Coming back to the Orthodox Syrian Christians, I think I have visited a couple of Orthodox Syrian Churches in Delhi which show their allegiance to the Malankaran churches, which I believe have a headquarter in Kotayam.
In any case, after reading your post, I feel much closer to Palayur, which I would endeavour to visit during my next trip to Kerala.
Thank you for sharing this excellent information.
July 3rd, 2008 at 9:15 am
Yes Dear Ram Dall,
Kerala was a Christian Country along with the earliest Christian countries like Jerusalem, Rome and other Middle Eastern countries. This was due to the work of Apostles like Peter, Paul etc. In the beginning it was a sect of Jewish community. They were severely persecuted by Romans and the Jewish community. Emperor Nero has put them to lot of inhuman torture. When Constantine become emperor of Rome the persecution ended and Christians had a safe period on the patronage of Constantine. Only centuries after Rome captured Britain, they become Christians. Kerala Jews and Christians had no persecutions in Kerala. According to Former president Ranjendra Prasad there were Christians in Kerala much earlier than most European countries. According to Jawaharlal Nehru Kerala Christians were as old as Christianity itself.
I want to clear that there is no conclusive historical evidence to prove that St. Thomas ever came to Kerala. But there is a strong Tradition of St. Thomas coming to India. Even though some western historians conclude that St. Thomas comes to North India and not to Kerala. This is based on a second century Letter from a traveler. Name of the Book is Acts of Thomas. It states that St. Thomas reached the King Gundaphorus an Indo Parthian King of first Century. But there was no evidence to show that there was such a king in history. In 19th century Coins with inscriptions of Gundaphorus was discovered in North India. Thus westerners want to prove that Christianity and Thomas came to North India. South Indian historians Dispute this by stating that the Traveler mistook the name of King Pandya of South India as Gundaphorus. And there was a strong tradition in Kerala. So the south Indian apostolate of St. Thomas must be true. They also ask the question how the Christianity of St. Thomas vanished without any trace in history in the north and how the Kerala Christians originated without such an apostle. Many of the legends may be untrue but the truth of St. Thomas coming to India must be true to the tradition. There may be embellishment in the tradition of Brahmins converted to Christian etc. When the Portugese came there were only 30,000 Nazraneys (Now called Syrian Christians). They all become Catholics for almost Half a Century. Afterwards Jacobites separated from them. They renewed their ties with the Antiocian Patriarch.
I want to explain this. In the beginning there were Bishops in Christian churches in Jerusalem, Rome etc. They all were equal in rank looking after different regions. But in due course A bishop in Rome declared he is supreme head and his name become Pope (Father). Jerusalem and other eastern Churches do not agree with this. They made their head as Patriarch (Father) thus formed the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox including Russian Orthodox Church and the Kerala Nazraneys. After 50 years under Catholic, Jacobites renewed their allegiance to the patriarch. But unlike in middle east the Metropolitan (Chief Bishop) of Kerala was supreme in all temporal maters. The allegiance was only nominal. Unfortunately some misunderstanding happened in that church and two groups took place. The other is known as Malankara Orthodox Church. They want to give more powers to The Patriarch of Antioch. The case is still pending in various courts.
About 200 years back again their was splits in the Jacobites Church. Some Priests after learning from British Theologians wants to make more radical changes in the Theology and Liturgy of the Worship. They separated and called themselves Marthoma Church Under the supreme head of Metropolitan without any connections with either Pope or Patriarch. But they keep the Syrian tradition of Worship.
At the Same time Some Jacobites and others contacted The CMS Missionaries of Britain and formed an Anglican church in Kerala. They were originally called CMS Church and now known as Church of South India. They Merged with Other churches of South India to Form the Church of South India. They follow the Anglican style of Worship. Recently many new Pentecostal and other churches also formed in Kerala. There are Syrian Christians in all these communities.
There is no Cast system in Christianity now. But no Christian who claim their Origin to Brahmins of Palayur (Proudly Called themselves Syrian Christians) never intermarry with a Christian recently converted from low caste communities. In some places they have even Separate churches for Low caste Communities
July 3rd, 2008 at 2:20 pm
” I want to explain this. In the beginning there were Bishops in Christian churches in Jerusalem, Rome etc. They all were equal in rank looking after different regions. But in due course A bishop in Rome declared he is supreme head and his name become Pope (Father).”
Hi buddy,
This is too simplistic an explanation…
CM Paul
July 16th, 2008 at 4:11 am
Philip Sir,
I am spellbound reading such a nice write-up.For the first time I know what Syrian Christians mean and how christianity started in India. I would be looking forward to read more from you. I am very happy to have you among us - giving scholar angles to the ghumakkari.
I am happy that you decided to live with your children in Delhi, though I can understand that living in concrete jungle cannot be so easy. These days the jobs are taking us far from our native places but we the young generation also look forward to the blessings from our parents. When our parents(mine or my wife’s) are here with us, I must say that those are one of the best time of the year :)
I will be looking forward to more write-ups from you.
Yesterday only I showed your story on rubber to my mother and told her that how rubber is made :)
July 19th, 2008 at 5:23 am
Great article, of immense help in demystifying the legend of syrian christians(SCh) to curious ignorants like yours truly. I have always fallen short of asking my SCh colleagues about their mythology and history and this article so lucidly delineates the ancestry, so interesting.
August 8th, 2008 at 11:17 am
In the latest edition of Outlook magazine, there is a story on Kerela by William Dalrymple. It touches some of the things which Phillip has mentioned.
Outlook Story on Kerela by William Dalrymple
Read when you guys get time.
August 9th, 2008 at 4:34 pm
Yes Nandan jee,
Mannarkkad is only 10 K. M. from Karimba There are so many stories like that in Kerala.
Pilgrims going to the Sabarimala Temple Go to the Mosque of Vavar swamy. Vavar swamy was a friend of Ayyappa the son of Shiva and (Vishnu as mohini I think)
There are also stories about Jeasus mentioned in rigveda. I am giving a story from the net below)
JESUS CHRIST IN HINDU SCRIPTURES
BY
Dr. N. Sharath Babu, M. A., M. Phil., D. Min
God is the father of all the human beings. Some human beings may not know him as their own father. Since God is the creator, he is the father of all.
Bible presents clearly that God is love (1 John 4:8). He loves with an everlasting love (Jer 31:3). “For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life” (John 3:16). The loving God does not want any one to perish. So he revealed himself in various ways including as the incarnate God called Jesus Christ (Heb 1:1, 2). Since God does not want anyone to be lost, he lightens every human being who is born into this world (John 1:9). So the loving God has graciously revealed himself through the Hindu scriptures in order that the teeming millions of Hindus may not be lost in the total darkness of sin. It is so amazing to see the Hindu scriptures bear witness to Jesus Christ by name and his vicarious death. I have gleaned the following scriptural references from Hindu scripture books about Christ. These Hindu scriptural passages show clearly that Christ was born to a virgin, is holy and blameless, he suffered and died, and redeemed the sinners by shedding his holy blood.
All the Hindu scriptures which are referred are written in Sanskrit language and the Vedas quoted here are written between 2000 and 1500 B.C. The Upanishads are written between 10th century and 2nd century B.C.
References to the Birth of Christ
The following quotations speak clearly about Jesus Christ. The second quotation even mentions the name of Jesus.
After creating the sky, waters, and the earth, the supreme spirit of the Lord almighty thought “I created the worlds. Now to provide for and to save these worlds I have to create a savior.” Thinking thus He gave birth to a man from himself. (Ithareya Upanishad 1.1.3)
The Puranas explain the Vedic truths in the form of stories. The Bhavishya Purana1 is the ninth in this set of eighteen sacred books. Its third part is entitled Bharath khand, and the second chapter in the third part is entitled Pratisarg. This chapter has thirty-four verses that clearly tell the story of Jesus Christ and His incarnation. The following verses show the main parts.
Verse 31:
Yeesh moorti parapta nitya shuddha shivakari:
Yeesha masih itticha mam nama prathishtatham
Translation:
The revelation of God who is eternal, Holy, Compassionate and giver of salvation; who dwells within our heart is manifested. His name is yeesha Masih [Jesus Christ].
Speaking of this Savior and God incarnate, the sages call Him Purusha shubham (blameless and Holy person), Balwaan raja gaurang shweta vastrakam (sovereign king in a holy person robed in white) Yeesh putra (Son of God ), Kumari garbha sambhavam (one who is born of a virgin), and Satya Varatha Paraayanam (one who is the sustainer of the path of truth).
Rigveda, the first scripture, also presents Christ without mentioning His name, but referring to Him as the Word who is God.
This man is all that has been, all that is and all that has to be. He controls the eternal life and it is for the redemption of mankind. He surpasses His immortal sphere and descends to the mortal sphere. He comes to give every one reward as per their deeds.
Venerable words from the Vedic scriptures affirm:
“The word is the indestructible God.” (Brhadaranyaka Upanishad 4:1, 2).
The Supreme Leader who is the cause and governor of all creation who to protect and save sinful mankind, Himself appeared upon the earth wrapped in a body that is Holy and without sin. (Rigveda 10.125)
References to the Suffering and Death of Christ
Christ underwent immeasurable physical and mental pain when he was crucified. The Hindu scriptures highlight his physical suffering. Some of these statements seems to refer to Christ because there was no Hindu god or goddess who bore such suffering on behalf of sinners.
The crown of thorns was placed on his head: “The sacrificial victim is to be crowned with a crown made of thorny vines” (Rigveda 10.90.7, 15).
His clothes were divided among those who offered him. “After death, His clothes are to be divided among the offerors” (Ithareya Brahmanam).
The person tied to a wooden cross: “His hands and legs are to be bound to a yoopa (a wooden pole) causing blood shed” (Brhadaranyaka Upanishad, 3.9.28).
While the victim was at his greatest agony on the cross, he was given a herbal drink which had an intoxicating effect: “Before death, He should be given a drink of somarasa” [an intoxicating herbal juice] (Yajur Veda 31).
Though the victim was hung on the wooden cross, none of his bones were broken: “None of His bones be broken” (Ithareya Brahmanam 2.6).
The Hindu scriptures point to the efficacy of the blood of Jesus Christ which cleanses from sin.
If you want to be delivered from the sin which you commit through eyes, mouth, ears and mind, bloodshed is necessary. Without shedding the blood, there is no remission for sin. That must be the blood of the Holy one. God is our creator. He is our King. When we were perishing, He came to save us by offering even his own body on our behalf. (Maha Brahmanam 4.15)
God is the ruler of people. He will offer His body as a sacrifice, for His people; for the remission of their sins (Sama veda, part 2, Thandiya Maha Brahmanam).
These statements clearly describe the suffering and the death of Christ. No one else qualifies. These Hindu scriptural references will be a great help to present Jesus to the orthodox Hindus. As a second step Jesus can be presented as the true incarnated God, meeting their full expectations by using Hindu scriptures themselves. ma
These scattered but clear-cut references to Christ led some Hindu seekers of the truth to the Bible and Christ. Such people have openly embraced Christianity through baptism and witnessing marvelously for Christ.
1Bhavishya purana is one of the eighteen puranans. Bhavishya means future. It contains a number of future events, including the information about the virgin birth of Christ and his name. It is the only scripture book which contains the name of Jesus. See Krishna Dwaipuayana Vyasa, Bhavishya Purana (Mumbai: Kemraj Shrikrishnadas, 1959).
Philip
August 11th, 2008 at 11:00 am
Dear Philip,
Thnanks a whole lot for these references.
My little brain always wonders, if god is one and every religion accepts it so, why religeous authorities invite/encourage people to undergo those formal rituals of change of faith? Would it not be a better world if people just bowed their head at all places of worship they pass by, irrespetive of their faith, because they all lead to that one. Why my God Your God, when it is only one God. Can we not have a mutual admiration society of Religions, when all religions gradually converge into a best of all, by a process of assimilation of the best of the others.
I wish it were that simple, but still…
Regards
Rajeev Tivari