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In the Lap of Nature - Jim Corbett National Park |
Succumbing to intense pressure from friends to join us on our trips, I have decided to let go of the Wheel and be among friends on our next visit.
The wild always has a special place in my heart; the smell and colours of the forest, music of a rivulet, sights of chirpy birds and wild animals roaming around freely in their natural habitat - it has an exciting aura to it. So visiting Jim Corbett National Park in the state of Uttaranchal was something I was looking forward to for quite some time.

We were five families comprising 18 members including a 6 month old bundle of joy. We found ourselves in a bus on a cool March night and reached Ramnagar the following morning. The road via Kashipur, passing through lush green/golden wheat fields and flowering mango orchards, would’ve been ideal for driving but then, alas I’m not at the wheel!. After obtaining necessary documents from the Forest Office, we proceeded towards Dhikala, the jungle resort 50 km inside the jungle. Some 18 km away was the entrance into the park where they have a souvenir shop. Shall grab a copy of Sir Corbett’s ‘Man eaters of Kumaon’ on the way back, I assured myself (which I did!). The narrow jungle road was barely enough for our bus. We had to cross many dry river beds full of round stones (due to which the forest is closed for visitors during monsoons). The bridges, wherever there were, are made of wood and gave us jitters as we crossed them. River Ramganga runs down like a fawn along the path, often with little falls.
The flora was of the milder variety – no thick undergrowth. Tall sal trees with ‘fire in the forest’ here and there and some other colourful leaves. Lot of ‘curry leaves’ and gooseberry trees too but what takes your breath away is the freshness all around, the sounds and the smells of forest and little flowers of varying hues. We were not allowed to get off from the vehicle so no trekking is possible; even sounding the horn is taboo.
Slowly the sightings started. Colourful birds at first including wild fowl then spotted deer and boar. While we were crossing a river bed, saw a lonely tusker standing majestically by the river mouth which was just 100 meters away and as the bus slowed down, he lifted his head and gave us such a ferocious look, we made good our escape before the beast could decide to charge down at the intruders of his privacy.

At last we reached Dhikala. It was a cluster of small buildings at the edge of the trees and beginning of a vast grassland which reminded me of some African hamlet deep inside the jungle. The buildings are very much in tune with its surroundings and have appeared to be from the late 19th century. However, it is protected by electric fence. The complex is situated high above the banks of Ramganga but one is not allowed to venture out into the river for fear of crocodiles and other animals.
The view from the complex was simply awesome; to one side is the forest, the expanse of grassland on the other and on the third side stood blue mountains in a coat of mist far beyond the river bank. The breeze that flows brings in the fresh smell of the forest. Sitting under a huge tree, soaking in nature’s beauty all around, one simply is transported to another world, far from the madding crowd and toxic fumes – a world without worries.
As we stood watching from the platform high above the river, a herd of deer and boar looked up from the river bank. Then someone spotted movements at the far side of the marshy grassland. Elephants! As the group moved towards the river, we were able to take a count. There were over forty of them in two different herds! Big and small, they were grazing lazily.
The night too was lovely – starry sky, bird calls and cool breeze.

The best part of the trip was the early morning jeep safari where you get to be part of the jungle - each area has a different look, smell and colour to it. Elephant herds returning from the river came right in front of us. A mom and her baby elephant followed us for some time. Our guide spotted a host of birds – which we otherwise would’ve missed – and countless spotted deer, sambhar etc. The reservoir – Dhikala lake, as it is commonly called - with its azure waters and serene surroundings gives a breath-taking view. We are not allowed to enter the water of pick pebbles. Nature is preserved here in its pristine glory. Part of the movie ‘Kaal’ was shot here in the grasslands, I was told.

We were not able to spot the mighty cat but were shown pug marks. Heard from the staff that one was in the vicinity but we somehow missed it.
The restaurant offers excellent food (veg only). A one hour film about the wild is shown every evening in which many interesting facts about the wild is depicted.
It was in fact, an invigorating and exhilarating experience which left some indelible frames in my mind. A ‘must visit’ for all nature/adventure lovers.
Tips:
Dhikala is the best place to stay as it offers panoramic view, good food and feel of the jungle. Other hotels are in the periphery and the ones inside (Govt. run like Dhikala) does not have restaurants attached to it.
Weekends at Dhikala are reserved for those on package tour from Uttaranchal Tourism deptt. so if you want to drive down, opt for weekdays. Do the bookings much in advance.
Reach Ramnagar before noon. Gateway to the Park closes early.
No TV, Radio or Mobile. Forget everything else and be one with Nature.

March 20th, 2008 at 9:08 am
Welcome Patrick as a writing ghumakkar, we have been reading your comments on other stories, now its other’s turn to read your story.
I have been to Corbett. Its really an awesome place, the killing quietness of these tall trees takes one over. Gairal, another place to stay inside, has a restaurant. Bijrani (you reach this palce through the first gate, aamdanda gate) has one.
By the way, there is a different kind of fun to stay in a FRH (Forest Rest House) which has no restaurant since you have to cook yourself :)
I am very impressed by your style, the way you elaborate. Very engaging read.
I know you had some more pics, send them over and I would put it on.
March 20th, 2008 at 8:29 pm
Hi Patrick.You are a wonderful story teller.Don’t loose this gifted habit u can go a long way.By the way i am planning a visit to the corbet your inputs will be of great help.Thanks Buddy
March 21st, 2008 at 12:51 am
Beautiful Patrick. I can smell the freshness of Corbett National park sitting at my home. You saw herds of Elephant , 40 of them. WOW, it should surely be an awesome experience.
Welcome on board, we would be waiting to hear more from you.
March 21st, 2008 at 1:32 am
Hi Patrick, after going through ur story I m feeling myself unfortunate that I couldn’t meet such a great writer……….actually I lives in Ramnagar(nearest town to CTR) and also work as a travel person here. Anyways next time I hope we’ll meet. Dont forget to meet me in your next visit. You can contact me for any assitance also Regarding Corbett. My cell no. is 09837092025 or can mail me at thejungleguide@gmail.com.
March 24th, 2008 at 4:35 am
Kostubh has been helping ghumakkars at Corbett, with good feedback. Great work.
I put 2 more pics.
March 24th, 2008 at 4:48 am
I visited Corbett in starting of March this year. Kostubh did the complete arrangement of safari and gave right advice about staying in FRH. Great help during my trip. I will write a separate post about my visit very soon.
March 24th, 2008 at 2:27 pm
Thank you all, guys
I would love to ‘live’ behind the wheel but my trips are ‘few and far in between’ so won’t hear much from me. However, you can expect a lot of comments :-)
Nandan: Agree with you on the joys of living in FRH and doing own cooking but Uttaranchal tourism site still proclaims Dhikala as the only place with a restaurant. Thanks a lot for the uploads
Kostubh: Hey! this is ’simple, humble’ Pat Jones, not a Ruskin Bond! Anyway, I’ll surely contact you on my next visit.
Pat
March 31st, 2008 at 10:48 pm
I admire the spirit of the parents of the 6 month old bundle of joy. :)
Nature parks usually have the effect of a world without worry. I had the pleasure of making a whirlwind trip to Corbett National Park just last month through the Bijrani Gate. With a four hour jeep safari (yes, 4), I got the feeling that I had a glimpse of our wonderful nature that fills us with awe with its flora and fauna.
You have written your experiences vividly here. Thank you for sharing it with us. :)
April 1st, 2008 at 10:09 am
Thanks a lot for your kind words, Celine.
Can’t wait to read your ‘Petra’ experiences. Hope we’ll get a glimpse soon.
April 9th, 2008 at 10:42 am
Hi patrick. This is another patrick from Lucknow. i was just wondering - how did u get teh booking for dhikala? The KMVN site has bookings only for Ramnagar?
April 9th, 2008 at 12:17 pm
Patrick,
Glad to have another Pat on board :-)
You need to visit KVMN office personally. I did it at their New Delhi office. The staff was helpful but the Ramnagar Forest Office took their sweet time to issue the permits, on the day of the actual visit. So you need to be there at Ramnagar in time. You’ll also require to furnish the name and age of all the visitors at the forest office. So be prepared with a list of visitors especially if you are in a group.
Have an enjoyable trip and share the experience with us.